Viterbo

Viterbo is a city of 68,000 people (2017) in Lazio, a central region of Italy.

As a settlement Viterbo dates back to Etruscan times. Between around 1100 and 1300, it was one of the most important cities in Europe. By the 13th century it had 50 castles under its control. It was the place where Popes took refuge when driven out of Rome and for several decades was the seat of the Papacy. It was the scene of battles between potential invaders of Rome and papal armies. With the departure of the Papacy to Orvieto and then to Avignon Viterbo declined in importance. It was further hit by Black Death, which killed two-thirds of its population and a major earthquake in 1349. In the 20th century it was damaged by appalling Fascist-era town planning and then by Allied bombs. These days its population is about the same as it was in the 13th century, at around 60,000. Apart from its tradition its main claim to fame now is that Italy’s gold reserves are held there.

By train
Main railway stations are Porta Fiorentina and Porta Romana. To arrive at Porta Romana, you can take a Regional Train or a Regional Faster Train (hosted by Ferrovie dello Stato Italiano, the Italian Train Government Service) from Roma Termini, Roma Tiburtina or Roma Ostiense. This trip could be take 1½-2 hours. Or, you can take an extra-urban train (this service is hosted by ATAC, the Roman Transport Government Service) from Roma Saxa Rubra or Roma Ostiense.

By car
From Rome take the ring road of GRA to the Cassia bis exit and follow this road to Viterbo. An alternative, but longer route, is to take the A1 motorway (from Rome follow the signs towards Firenze, and exit at Orte. Then take the S204 towards Viterbo (about €3 tolls from Rome). It´s not really comfortable to drive inside the historical centre, as all the streets are quite narrow and "one way". Better to park your car out of the town walls.

By bus
From the bus station of Roma Saxa Rubra take a COTRAL (the government company for extra-city transport in Lazio) Bus to Viterbo and leave at Porta Romana bus stop (at five minutes by foot from historical centre) or at Riello (the bus station of Viterbo). The trip takes about 1½ hours. The price are: ordinary ticket from Roma Saxa Rubra to Viterbo €4; ordinary ticket on board from Roma Saxa Rubra to Viterbo €7).

Get around
The historical centre is small enough to be visited on foot.

For longer distances you can use the local bus network, hosted by Francigena, the government company of transport in Viterbo (ordinary 90-min ticket for €0.70; ordinary 90-min ticket on board for €1.50; daily ticket for €1.55). Tickets can be found at tobacconists, and must be validated when getting on the bus.

See




Do

 * Thermal springs

Already famous in Roman times, and quoted by Dante in his Divine Comedy... having a bath in one of their natural thermal springs is, perhaps, what you would never miss from Viterbo. As they are in surrounding open-air countryside areas, you can use them all year, every time of the day (for free, of course). Water reaches temperatures of 55°C, so the experience gets more amazing in freezing days (and nights).

The most famous ones are called Bulicame (2 km from Viterbo, on the road that leads to Tuscania). On the other hand there are also some springs run as spas centres (Terme dei Papi and Pianeta Benessere).


 * Shopping

A liked hobby by people who live in Viterbo, is go to do shopping in a one of lots of stores in historical centre (in it, you can find lots of Italian original food stores and dress stores), or in the most modern commercial centre of the city; the Centro Commerciale Tuscia (near Riello Bus Station). Abitually, the price of gadgets, dresses and other common things, is in the standard of a typical province town of the centre of Italy (for example: you can buy a T-shirt for €5-7, and a souvenir magnet at €1-2).

Eat

 * Also good is Pizzeria San Pelligrino, on Via San Pelligrino.
 * Tre Re at Piazza Del'Erbe has excellent pastas and other Viterbese fare for €10-20 per person.
 * Akira Japanese Restaurant, Via Genova, 22. Japanese restaurant, all-you-can-eat.
 * Tre Re at Piazza Del'Erbe has excellent pastas and other Viterbese fare for €10-20 per person.
 * Akira Japanese Restaurant, Via Genova, 22. Japanese restaurant, all-you-can-eat.
 * Akira Japanese Restaurant, Via Genova, 22. Japanese restaurant, all-you-can-eat.
 * Akira Japanese Restaurant, Via Genova, 22. Japanese restaurant, all-you-can-eat.
 * Akira Japanese Restaurant, Via Genova, 22. Japanese restaurant, all-you-can-eat.

Drink

 * "Caffe Cavour" on Via Cavour, has the best cappuccino in town.
 * "Blitz" - great food and drinks
 * "Shu Lounge" - pricey drinks, nice outdoor seating, good music, friendly workers

Go next
Viterbo is the center of a really fascinating area and there are many places that can be explored by car in an easy day trip. To the southwest is the Etruscan city of Tarquinia, to the north Orvieto and in a general southerly direction places such as the park of monsters at Bomarzo and the Etruscan/Roman remains of Sutri should not be missed.