Vilnius

Vilnius is the capital and largest city of Lithuania. It has a beautiful baroque Old Town, listed as a, and excellent tourist facilities in all price ranges. It stands on the River Neris in the southeast pocket of the country, the Dzūkija region, and in 2023 had a population of 629,000.

Understand
Vilnius has been central to the country's life for as long as there has been Lithuania, but that has often been a tragic tale. Its Neolithic people traded in Baltic amber. In the early Middle Ages five petty kingdoms combined into two then one, when Mindaugas in 1253 became Lithuania's first king and noble Christian convert. The country splintered after his assassination but was re-united under Gediminas, who established Vilnius castle — in legend on the site where a wolf in a dream told him to build. But the real wolves were his neighbouring countries, and finding a powerful ally meant adopting their religion. Poland was the best bet and a dynastic marriage in 1486 united the crowns, later the nations, and Lithuania became Roman Catholic. Vilnius Old Town was largely built in the following 150 years.

This united Polish–Lithuanian Commonwealth grew almost to the Black Sea, but all the power and money shifted to Poland. Like Hungary in the Austro-Hungarian Empire or Ireland within Britain, Lithuania was the poor country cousin. And then Poland fell, with its territory carved up between Prussia, Austria and Russia, and others snatching what they could. Lithuania became a territory of the Russian Empire. Poland and Lithuania only regained independence after the First World War, and almost at once were at war with each other and with Russia. Vilnius was captured and from 1920 was a Polish exclave, and the Lithuanian capital moved to Kaunas. In the run-up to the Second World War Russia (as the Soviet Union) again seized the territory. This history meant that when Nazi Germany invaded in 1941, they found many local supporters, and the Jewish population of Vilnius was slaughtered.

Postwar the Soviet iron fist clutched Lithuania, until 1991 when civil unrest and the collapse of the USSR enabled the country to seize independence. It looked west for allies, adopting capitalism, joining NATO and the European Union, and — crucially for travellers — welcoming the budget airlines. All this has made Vilnius a friendly, tourist-oriented city, with a wealth of sights reflecting its layers of history.

Tourist information: Go Vilnius have a kiosk at the airport and another in Cathedral Square, both open daily 10:00-19:00. They speak good English and are helpful with maps, brochures, tours and suggestions, but they don't book accommodation

Climate
Far from moderating Atlantic, Vilnius winter is extremely cold and temperatures often stay below freezing day after day. Temperatures often reach -25ºC (-13 °F) in the months of January and February, freezing all the rivers and lakes around the city. Summers are warm to hot, with heat waves that send temperatures to rise above 30°C (86°F). Rainfall is relatively equal throughout the year; there is never a completely dry month, although summer is the wettest time in Vilnius. Early summer and autumn are good times to visit, but Vilnius is a year-round destination, and even overcast and gray days have their compensations, when everyone feels in league united against the weather.

By plane


To and from the airport:
 * By bus — They leave from outside Arrivals, run every 15-30 min and take 15 min to go downtown. Simplest is to buy a €1 single ticket from the driver, and you might pay extra for bulky luggage. "Get around" below describes other ticket deals, such as the smart card Vilniečio kortelė — buy it from the Narvesen kiosk next to Arrivals.
 * Bus 1 runs from the airport (Oro uostas) to the central bus and railway stations (Stotis).
 * Bus 2 runs via LFF football stadium to the stations.
 * Bus 88 runs via the football stadium, Gate of Dawn (200 m from stations) and MO Museum to Konstitucijos Prospekt and Europa Square in the business district north of the river.
 * Night Bus 88N runs every 30 min 23:30–05:30 by the same route. This is the only night service at the airport.
 * Bus 3G runs via Lukiškės Square (west of Old Town) and Konstitucijos Prospekt in the business district to the northern suburb of Fabijoniškės. The G indicates express, Greitasis.
 * Other cities: Ollex is a not-very-direct bus from the airport to Kaunas, where the pick-up and drop off is at the filling station on Savanoriu prospekt, northeast edge of the city. The bus continues to Klaipėda. Ecolines bus to Minsk and Toks bus to Kaunas, Klaipėda and Palanga also run via the airport.
 * By train — From the airport to the main railway station every two hours, taking 8 minutes. Buy on board from the conductor for €0.80, and you might have to pay a few cents extra if you have bulky luggage.
 * By taxi — In the rank outside Arrivals, they have capped rates. To the stations in 2023 is €13 daytime, €15 night; to Old Town is €18 daytime, €21 night.
 * On foot — With light luggage, decent weather and an hour to spare, it's 4 km to walk to the railway and bus stations and another 1 km into Old Town. From the terminal, follow the broad Felikso Vaitkaus gatve for 200 m. Turn right, heading north on Dariaus ir Gireno gatve — it's busy but has a sidewalk. This comes into downtown across a railway bridge, turn right (east) for stations and Old Town or continue straight ahead for places west of Old Town.

 Kaunas Airport is 100 km west of Vilnius and 14 km northeast of downtown Kaunas. It has budget flights by Ryanair and Wizz, but fewer than Vilnius. Ollex is a direct bus from Kaunas airport to Vilnius (90 min, three per day, €15), where the pick-up / drop off is at Panorama Hotel opposite the railway and bus stations. Otherwise take Kaunas local bus 29 downtown for frequent buses and trains to Vilnius.

By train
From Poland a daily train runs from Kraków at 04:00 via Warsaw Centralna at 07:30 to reach the border towards 15:00. Here you change to the Lithuanian train for Kaunas at 16:30 and Vilnius at 17:30. If you fly into Warsaw, you can take any train to Białystok then join the cross-border train at a more congenial 10:30 next morning. The westbound train sets off from Vilnius at noon.

From Riga a daily train departs at 15:28, arriving into Vilnius at 19:51.

From Belarus and the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad all trains are suspended since 2019, but buses still run from Minsk.

From 27 Dec 2023 a daily train plies to Latvia. It leaves Vilnius at 06:30 and calls at Kaišiadorys, Siauliai, Joniškis and Jelgava, reaching Riga by 10:45. The southbound train leaves Riga around 15:30 to arrive in Vilnius at 19:50. The single adult fare is €24 in 2nd class.

From Kaunas trains run hourly, daily 05:00-22:30, taking 90 min. Adult fares in 2023 are about €7. The trains are usually Czech double-deckers.

From Klaipeda normally five trains run daily, taking 4 hr 30 min, for a fare of €22. However in 2023 there is disruption on this route for electrification.

By bus
Buses from Warsaw take 8-9 hours via Białystok and Kaunas, for a fare in 2023 of €30. They continue to Riga, another 4-5 hours. From Tallinn you may need to change in Riga, or the bus may take a rest stop there then continue.

Buses from Minsk are still running in 2023, taking 4 hr 30 min. Those from Kaliningrad have been suspended since 2022.

Buses from Kaunas run every 15 min, taking 90 min for a fare of €9; see above for the bus from Kaunas airport. From Klaipėda they run every hour or so, taking 4-5 hours, for €25. See individual town pages for other starting points across Lithuania.

Bus operators include Eurolines, Ecolines, Lux Express and Flixbus.

Vilnius bus station is next to the railway station.

By road
From Poland follow E87 to Marijampolė then turn east on A7 / A16. From Riga follow E87 south to Panevėžys then A2. From Klaipėda and Kaunas follow A1 east.

These are fast four-lane highways, usual speed limit 130 km/h summer, 110 km/h winter, and kept open in bad weather.

On foot
Walking is your only choice in Old Town. The old streets are pedestrianised, and even taxis avoid it.

By bus
JUDU is the portal for city buses and trolleybuses, with timetables, route maps and travel planners in English. There are no trams or metro / suburban railways, but see above for the airport train.

A single ticket for bus or trolleybus costs €1 in 2023, purchased from the driver, cash only and no discounts. You stamp it immediately in the little red box by the driver's cab. It's not valid for transfers.

All other tickets involve the use of a smart card, Vilniečio kortelė, for an upfront payment of €1.50. This works out cheaper if you travel over several days, and it allows discounts and transfers. The transport website lists 16 possibilities, times three for the 50% and 80% discounts. For instance a full-fare 24-hour ticket costs €5 and a 72-hour is €8. Validate it by swiping the smart card over the yellow electronic reader on the bus, which starts the clock running. Seniors over 70 years get 50% discount, and European Union students get 80% discount. Show your ISIC or ID card or passport when prepaying the smart card and in case of ticket control during the trip. It's also possible to do all this by mobile phone, but only in Lithuanian, so good luck with that.

Buy or top-up the Vilniečio kortelė smart card from Lietuvos spauda or Narvesen kiosks (for instance at the airport), Maxima grocery stores, PayPost offices, or at the Customer Service Centre at Gedimino pr 9A.

There are two mobile apps available for the purchase of public transportation tickets: m.ticket and Trafi. €0.65 for a 30-min single ticket, compared to €1 single ticket purchased with cash from the driver. Trafi is available in English and you can register a foreign debit/credit card. Minimum purchase in Trafi is €5. You can load up on several single tickets in Trafi (e.g., 8 x 30-min single tickets for a total of €5.2) and you can also activate several tickets at the same time. So if you're several people travelling together, only one person needs the Trafi app and can manage everyone's tickets.

Vilnius Pass is a tourist card which may include public transport on its 72-hour pass, but not on the 24 or 48-hour passes. You will struggle to break even on any of these, however many museums you rush around. The 72-hour pass is €66 with transport and €56 without.

There are some 90 standard bus routes (marked in blue), six express buses (in green, and badged G for Greitasis) and 20 trolleybuses (in red). They have their own numbers, so bus 3, express bus 3G and trolleybus 3 run entirely different routes. They run 05:30-23:00; the only night bus is 88N cross-town from the airport to Europa Square.

By taxi
See above for taxi rates from the airport. There are half a dozen taxi and ride-sharing services, which include Taksi 1820, Uber, Jazzexpress and A2B. Cars are new and have debit / credit card readers.

Smartphone and internet booking systems include Uber, eTAKSI, Bolt and Yandex. Street taxis may charge twice as much as those hired by phone or app: try dialling the number on the vehicle you see, tell the dispatcher the address you're at, and you will likely get the same car for a lower price.

All taxis must have a yellow licence plate starting with the letter T with an additional five numbers and a "Taksi" sign on the roof. A detailed price list alongside the driver's taxi-operator license must be placed on the panel right in front of the passenger seat next to the driver.

A €0.50-1 tip for the driver is customary.

By car
Not in Old Town! The spine of it is traffic-restricted, and parking is scarce and time-limited - not long enough to enjoy any sights. Further out is snarled during rush hour (07:00-09:00 and 16:00-18:30). If you plan to tour the country, see the city by walking or public transport then pick up a rental car later. There's a dozen rental companies including Hertz, Enterprise, Europcar and Sixt.

JUDU details the parking places in the city, and there are Park & Rides around its fringes.

City-Bee is a car-share where you can rent a car by the minute - use your phone to unlock it. There is no contract or monthly fee, you pay for the service only when you use the car (say €8 per hour), and there are no parking fees when you are not using it. There are 13 pick-up points across the city, mostly in the centre.

By bicycle
You might cycle to outlying sites, but this will be on-road, and local motorists don't pay much regard to bike lanes. The only continuous cycle path is north along the River Neris to Verkiai nature park. Other routes are fragmentary.

Cyclocity is a self-service bike-rental scheme. However in Feb 2023 short-term subscriptions are suspended, and they only offer longer deals suitable for regular commuters.

Velotakas have bike rental and lead city tours. They're at Stulginskio 5, tel +370 618 45727, open daily 10:00-18:00.

See


Vilnius Pass is a tourist discount card which in 2023 costs €37 for 24 hours, €47 for 48 hours and €56 for 72 hours. This excludes public transport and is frankly poor value, you'll struggle to break even.

Old town north

 * This starts from the castle and cathedral, and stretches south along Pilies gatve. Halfway down the main street becomes Didžioji, and this area is described below as Old Town south. In 1994 the entire Old Town was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List.


 * * Museum of Applied Arts and Design is in another wing of Old Arsenal. The permanent collection is mostly about fashion and clothing, and doesn't have much furniture, ceramics, metalwork or other wares.
 * * Museum of Applied Arts and Design is in another wing of Old Arsenal. The permanent collection is mostly about fashion and clothing, and doesn't have much furniture, ceramics, metalwork or other wares.
 * * Museum of Applied Arts and Design is in another wing of Old Arsenal. The permanent collection is mostly about fashion and clothing, and doesn't have much furniture, ceramics, metalwork or other wares.




 * ("Literature Street") at its junction with Rusų gatve has small artworks and dedications mounted on the walls, to those whose literature is linked to Lithuania (however obliquely, so a dedication to Wikivoyage seems overdue). The street west is a ratty alley and east is nothing special.
 * ("Literature Street") at its junction with Rusų gatve has small artworks and dedications mounted on the walls, to those whose literature is linked to Lithuania (however obliquely, so a dedication to Wikivoyage seems overdue). The street west is a ratty alley and east is nothing special.
 * ("Literature Street") at its junction with Rusų gatve has small artworks and dedications mounted on the walls, to those whose literature is linked to Lithuania (however obliquely, so a dedication to Wikivoyage seems overdue). The street west is a ratty alley and east is nothing special.
 * ("Literature Street") at its junction with Rusų gatve has small artworks and dedications mounted on the walls, to those whose literature is linked to Lithuania (however obliquely, so a dedication to Wikivoyage seems overdue). The street west is a ratty alley and east is nothing special.
 * ("Literature Street") at its junction with Rusų gatve has small artworks and dedications mounted on the walls, to those whose literature is linked to Lithuania (however obliquely, so a dedication to Wikivoyage seems overdue). The street west is a ratty alley and east is nothing special.
 * ("Literature Street") at its junction with Rusų gatve has small artworks and dedications mounted on the walls, to those whose literature is linked to Lithuania (however obliquely, so a dedication to Wikivoyage seems overdue). The street west is a ratty alley and east is nothing special.


 * Pilies gatve is the attractive main thoroughfare leading south from Cathedral Square past the university, to become Didžioji continuing past Town Hall to the Gate of Dawn. Saint Parasceve is a shocking pink Orthodox church at the changeover point. Most buildings along here are worth admiring, though the concrete modern block opposite the church could do with a visit by the Teutonic Knights' wrecking crew. The Šlapelių House Museum has exhibitions and events.

Old Town south

 * From Saint Parasceve past Town Hall square down to Gate of Dawn















Užupis

 * "Užupis" means beyond the river - it's in a loop of the small River Vilnia, which flows north to join the bigger Neris. It developed from the 16th century as a Jewish ghetto, most of whose inhabitants were murdered in the Holocaust. Post-war it was a squalid neighbourhood, then from independence it gentrified as property values climbed. In 1997 the residents declared it to be an independent republic, with its own president, anthem, flag, and constitution. They picked April Fool's Day to celebrate independence, and the first article of their constitution sets the tone: "Everyone has the right to live by the River Vilnia, and the River Vilnia has the right to flow by everyone." Its envoys, which have yet to be accredited by any other nation, include an "ambassador for whistling in the streets".
 * Kalnų Park stretches north to the River Neris, and northeast is the district of Antakalnis. Attractions there and further east are also described in this section.

















Elsewhere

 * The city's walls were destroyed around 1800 and it expanded in all directions, absorbing or replacing the hamlets around. This section describes a roughly-clockwise arc from Gate of Dawn through west then north of Old Town.

Naujamiestis
The "new town", right west of the old town













Right bank of Neris




South of the railway



 * : only if you're passing, or hell-bent on taking the shortest possible route between Hammerfest and Odesa. In the 19th century Struve organised an extensive series of cartographic observations along a geodesic - a "Great Circle" arc - to measure the precise size and shape of the earth. The triangulation points weren't in a straight line, but roughly followed longitude 26°43′ East over 2820 km. Some 34 of the original 265 points are now a . This one is a simple marker in a field, with a road nearby.

North of Vilnius

 * is a village 11 km north of Vilnius and now incorporated into the city: take bus #35 or #36. The extensive Regional Park stretches north along the riverbank. The imposing neoclassical palace was a bishop's residence and is now part of the university, no tours. Verkiai is best known for its Calvary, a reconstruction of the Way of the Cross in Jerusalem. This was established in the 1660s, demolished by the Soviets, and rebuilt in 2002. The Way comprises 22 chapels, 7 wooden and brick gates, and two baroque churches. It's supposed to be a faithful replica, though Jerusalem in 33 AD had few baroque buildings, and you'll struggle to see much resemblance between the bosky River Neris and the brook Kidron.
 * is a village 11 km north of Vilnius and now incorporated into the city: take bus #35 or #36. The extensive Regional Park stretches north along the riverbank. The imposing neoclassical palace was a bishop's residence and is now part of the university, no tours. Verkiai is best known for its Calvary, a reconstruction of the Way of the Cross in Jerusalem. This was established in the 1660s, demolished by the Soviets, and rebuilt in 2002. The Way comprises 22 chapels, 7 wooden and brick gates, and two baroque churches. It's supposed to be a faithful replica, though Jerusalem in 33 AD had few baroque buildings, and you'll struggle to see much resemblance between the bosky River Neris and the brook Kidron.

Do

 * Football: (capacity 5000) is 500 m east of the railway and bus stations, and hosts the men's national soccer team. It also hosts FK Žalgiris, who play in A Lyga, the country's top tier; the playing season is March-Nov. "Žalgiris" means green field and commemorates the Battle of Grunwald in 1410, when Poland-Lithuania smashed the Teutonic Knights. Also playing here in A Lyga is FK Riteriai, who relocated from Trakai in 2019. The stadium is too small for European fixtures and is being rebuilt to hold 8000.
 * was Siemens Arena until rebranded in 2020. It's multi-purpose, and capacity varies with event. For basketball (capacity 10,000) it hosts Rytas Vilnius, the country's leading team. Other regular events are ice hockey games and rock concerts.
 * Go Karts: is on Dariaus ir Girėno 500 m west of the railway station. It's a battery-powered kiddy affair.  is a full-scale outdoor track 5 km northeast of city centre.
 * Hot air balloons take to the sky above Vilnius and elsewhere in Lithuania. Operators include Oreiviai and Smile. In 2023 you might pay €140 per person.
 * was Siemens Arena until rebranded in 2020. It's multi-purpose, and capacity varies with event. For basketball (capacity 10,000) it hosts Rytas Vilnius, the country's leading team. Other regular events are ice hockey games and rock concerts.
 * Go Karts: is on Dariaus ir Girėno 500 m west of the railway station. It's a battery-powered kiddy affair.  is a full-scale outdoor track 5 km northeast of city centre.
 * Hot air balloons take to the sky above Vilnius and elsewhere in Lithuania. Operators include Oreiviai and Smile. In 2023 you might pay €140 per person.
 * Hot air balloons take to the sky above Vilnius and elsewhere in Lithuania. Operators include Oreiviai and Smile. In 2023 you might pay €140 per person.

Learn










Buy

 * Money: ATMs are very common in Vilnius and most shops accept credit cards.
 * Amber was created some 50 million years ago when Baltic conifer forests were flooded, and the tree resin became fossilised into a hard semi-precious stone. Every souvenir shop sells it.
 * Supermarket chains are Maxima, Rimi, Barbora, Iki, Aibė and Norfa.

Budget

 * Chain coffee shops include Caffeine, AJ Šokoladas and Šviežia Kava. You're seldom far from one.
 * Hesburger is a Finnish burger chain with a dozen outlets around the city. The closest to Old Town is at Vokiečių 12 near the Museum of Illusions, open Su-Th 10:00-22:00, F Sa 10:00-04:00.
 * Chain pizza: Čili Pica have half a dozen outlets, most central is Didžioji 5 at Town Hall square. You'll find better Italian elsewhere.
 * Jammi is a kebab chain with a dozen outlets, the most central is at Tauro 3 near Mykolaičio-Putino Museum.
 * Vegafè have two vegan cafes, at Totorių 3 by Chaika, and Augustijonų 2-3 near Old Town square, both open daily.
 * Vegafè have two vegan cafes, at Totorių 3 by Chaika, and Augustijonų 2-3 near Old Town square, both open daily.

Mid-range

 * Etno Dvaras are a chain serving trad food such as cepelinai and potato pancakes. The two most central are at Aušros Vartų 2 (Gate of Dawn) and Pilies 16 by the university. Rustic interiors, slightly touristy but a good introduction to the local cuisine, and both open from 11:00 to 22:00 or later.
 * Etno Dvaras are a chain serving trad food such as cepelinai and potato pancakes. The two most central are at Aušros Vartų 2 (Gate of Dawn) and Pilies 16 by the university. Rustic interiors, slightly touristy but a good introduction to the local cuisine, and both open from 11:00 to 22:00 or later.
 * Etno Dvaras are a chain serving trad food such as cepelinai and potato pancakes. The two most central are at Aušros Vartų 2 (Gate of Dawn) and Pilies 16 by the university. Rustic interiors, slightly touristy but a good introduction to the local cuisine, and both open from 11:00 to 22:00 or later.
 * Etno Dvaras are a chain serving trad food such as cepelinai and potato pancakes. The two most central are at Aušros Vartų 2 (Gate of Dawn) and Pilies 16 by the university. Rustic interiors, slightly touristy but a good introduction to the local cuisine, and both open from 11:00 to 22:00 or later.
 * Etno Dvaras are a chain serving trad food such as cepelinai and potato pancakes. The two most central are at Aušros Vartų 2 (Gate of Dawn) and Pilies 16 by the university. Rustic interiors, slightly touristy but a good introduction to the local cuisine, and both open from 11:00 to 22:00 or later.
 * Etno Dvaras are a chain serving trad food such as cepelinai and potato pancakes. The two most central are at Aušros Vartų 2 (Gate of Dawn) and Pilies 16 by the university. Rustic interiors, slightly touristy but a good introduction to the local cuisine, and both open from 11:00 to 22:00 or later.
 * Etno Dvaras are a chain serving trad food such as cepelinai and potato pancakes. The two most central are at Aušros Vartų 2 (Gate of Dawn) and Pilies 16 by the university. Rustic interiors, slightly touristy but a good introduction to the local cuisine, and both open from 11:00 to 22:00 or later.

Drink

 * Beer: the most popular local brand is Švyturys, meaning lighthouse; "Ekstra" is their lager. Other major brands include Kalnapilis, Tauras and Utenos.
 * Vodka in Lithuanian is degtinė. Popular brands include Auksinė and Gera. The town distillery doesn't offer tours.
 * Liqueurs include Midus (honey) and Trejos Devynerios (Three Nines, written as 999).

Connect
As of Aug 2023, Vilnius and its approach highways have 4G from Bite, and 5G from Tele2 and Telia.

Wi-fi is widely available in public places in the city.

Stay safe
Vilnius is a relatively safe city, but use standard common sense: safeguard valuables and don't get drunk. The railway and bus station area is safe enough in daylight but it is not recommended to remain in this area at night.

Rough areas where you have no reason to wander include the southern districts of Naujininkai and Kirtimai, and Šnipiškės beyond the business district.

Medical
Always check with your accommodation: they'll know which pharmacies are open late, and which number to call for medical care. This is likely to be the Centro Poliklinika (+370 5 244 2244 / 265 8564), which is open 24/7.

Embassies
For a full list see Embassy Pages.


 * 🇨🇳 China
 * 🇫🇮 Finland
 * Georgia
 * 🇩🇪 Germany
 * 🇬🇷 Greece
 * 🇯🇵 Japan
 * 🇷🇴 Romania
 * 🇪🇸 Spain
 * 🇬🇧 United Kingdom
 * 🇺🇸 United States

Go next

 * Transport routes radiate from Vilnius. Within an hour's travel:


 * Trakai 30 km west has two castles amid scenic lakes.
 * Purnuškės 25 km north is one of the claimants to be the geographical centre of Europe.
 * Kernavė 35 km northwest was medieval capital of Lithuania, and is a for its ancient mounds.
 * Kaunas 100 km west is the second largest city, and mostly modern but with a small Old Town.