Vientiane

Vientiane (Lao: ວຽງຈັນ, Vieng Chan) is the capital of Laos, with stunning temples, vibrant night markets, beautiful French-Indochinese architecture, lively street food stalls, and traditional craft markets.



Understand
Not too long ago, Vientiane was often described as sleepy and charming. However, the combination of exploding population &mdash; Vientiane has over doubled in size since 2000, reaching some 750,000 people in the 2020 census &mdash; and the frenetic Chinese-led investment boom and bust has led to considerable growing pains, with strip malls, traffic jams and abandoned construction sites throughout the city, and the French colonial villas of the old town now stand cheek to jowl with various concrete monstrosities, tied together with spiderwebs of power cables.

Nevertheless, the city has retained some charms, like plenty of gold-encrusted temples, a remarkably cosmopolitan dining scene and a pleasant riverside promenade by the Mekong River. So after you've done the round of temples, the best thing to do here has always been to wander down to the riverside, relax with a cold Beerlao, the Lao national beer, and watch the sun set on the Mekong.

History
Settled since at least 1000 CE, Vientiane became an important administrative city of the Kingdom of Lan Xang ("million elephants") in 1545. Ransacked in 1828 by the Siamese, Vientiane sprung back to be again named the capital of the protectorate of Laos by the French, a position it kept after independence (1953) and after the communists took over in 1975. Today Vientiane is far and away the largest city in Laos.

Orientation
Vientiane stretches along the northeast bank of a bend in the Mekong River. From the riverbank inland, the main roads running parallel to the river are Fa Ngum Rd, Setthathirat Rd, and Samsenthai Rd. The central district, Chanthabuli, contains most of Vientiane's governmental offices, hotels, and restaurants. Vientiane's widest boulevard, Lane Xang Rd, runs from the Presidential Palace (now used for governmental offices and for state receptions) to the northeast around Patuxai, the Victory Gate, towards Pha That Luang, the That Luang Stupa, the most important religious monument in Laos.

Climate
Vientiane has the same climate as most of Laos (and Thailand, for that matter). The hot season from March to May cranks the mercury as high as 40°C, and the humidity makes it feel like 50°C. The slightly cooler wet season is from May-Oct, when temperatures are around 30°C, tropical downpours are frequent (especially Jul-Aug), and some years the Mekong floods. The best but also busiest time to visit is the dry season from November to February, when daytime highs are around 30&deg;C, nighttime lows a pleasant 20&deg;C and rain is rare.

By plane
Flights were cut severely during the COVID outbreak, when Laos was hermetically sealed off from the world, and are still much more limited than they used to be. As of Oct 2022, there are international flights from:
 * Bangkok Don Mueang: AirAsia now flies once a day.
 * Bangkok Suvarnabhumi: Thai Smile and Lao Airlines each fly once daily.
 * Busan, South Korea: Lao Airlines flies three times a week.
 * Chiang Mai (Thailand): Lao Airlines three times weekly via Luang Prabang.
 * Hanoi (Viet Nam): Lao Airlines three times weekly and Vietnam Airlines daily.
 * Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia): AirAsia three flights weekly on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays.
 * Phnom Penh (Cambodia): Vietnam Airlines daily.
 * Siem Reap (Cambodia): Lao Airlines three flights weekly via Pakse.
 * Singapore: Scoot flies three times a week.

From neighboring countries, it is often cheaper and relatively painless to travel to Vientiane overland rather than by air.

From Bangkok, many visitors fly into Udon Thani in Thailand, and cross the border by bus, as this domestic flight is considerably cheaper than a direct international flight to Vientiane. There is a direct shuttle from Udon Thani airport to the Thai/Lao border at Nong Khai (about 50 km away) for 200 baht, and there are also direct cross-border bus services from Udon Thani (the city, not the airport) to Vientiane. This option (flight, bus transfers and immigration clearance at 2 points) takes at least 2 hours longer than a direct Bangkok to Vientiane flight. You may have difficulty getting an international bus to Laos if you do not already hold a visa. Bus conductors sometimes check for this, as the buses do not wait at the border long enough for the painfully slow visa on arrival process.

There are domestic flights from:
 * Lao Airlines flies to five domestic destinations: three to five flights daily to Luang Prabang for about US$100; once or twice daily to Pakse, four times per week to Huay Xai and Oudomxay, and six times per week to Xieng Khuang (Phonsavan).
 * Lao Skyway the second-biggest Lao airline, operates several flights weekly each between Vientiane and Huay Xai, Luangnamtha, Luang Prabang, and Oudomxay on small aircraft.

There is an Airport Shuttle Bus between Wattay International Airport, city center and Central Bus Station. The fare is 40,000 kip per person (Nov 2023), and buses run roughly once an hour from 08:20 to 18:50 to the airport and 09:00-19:40 from the airport. The bus stop at the airport is at the International Arrivals exit; turn right upon exiting. You can buy a ticket at the helpful bus information desk inside the airport, or you can just buy one on the bus. Bus stops at the city center are along Setthathilath, Samsenthai and Pangkham Rd. The bus stop at the Central Bus Station is along Nongbone Road a few meters away from the International Bus Ticket Office.

Many hotels offer a pickup service from the airport, or you can take a fixed-price taxi coupon for around US$7. Rides to the airport should be around half this price. If you don't mind walking the distance between the airport and the main road (less than 500 m), you can take a local bus for less than US$1.

By train
Vientiane has three separate train stations, which are over 20 km apart and not connected by train. None are anywhere near the city center. If leaving by train, be sure your ride is going to the right one!

From Northern Laos and China
Since April 2023, five high-speed trains per day run from Muang Xay via Luang Prabang, Vang Vieng and Phonhong to Vientiane.

One of these trains daily starts from Kunming South Station in China. The train stops at Mohan and Boten for 1 1/2 hours each for you to complete Chinese and Lao border formalities respectively, taking 9 hr 30 min altogether. The northbound train leaves Vientiane around 08:00 to reach Kunming for 19:40. These trains are much faster and more comfortable than buses, so they are very popular and sell out.

Getting tickets is now easy with the official LCR Ticket App, but Lao phone number is needed for registration (as of Jan 2024 MasterCard payment is not supported yet, but Visa is). One can book tickets only up to three days ahead and those run out quick, so early booking is recommended. Otherwise, can book through an agent (around 80,000 kip fee/$4 ). See more on trains on Laos for details.

, also signposted as the Lao-China Railway Station, is the south terminus of this railway, intended one day to reach Bangkok. It's on the northeast edge of the city towards the new National Stadium, 15 km from downtown in the middle of fields of grazing goats. Bus line 28 connects to the Central Bus Station (Morning Market/Talat Sao) at a cost of 25,000 kip (January 2024). A taxi/Loca to the city center costs around 80,000 kip (US$4).

The station operates in a Chinese style, meaning that tickets and matching ID are required to enter the station and security inspections were in place, mostly looking for flammable sprays. Liquids are OK. Despite the station's cavernous size, as of October 2022 facilities are minimal, consisting of a single coffee shop inside the departures area. If you have more time to kill, there's a simple cafe in the 2nd floor "Shopping Area" outside security, plus a ramshackle collection of stalls a few hundred meters away outside. There are no ATMs, money changers, convenience stores, proper restaurants etc.

From Thailand
One daytime and two overnight trains take 11-12 hours from Bangkok Bang Sue via Ayutthaya to Nong Khai on the border, where you're stamped out of Thailand and may have to pay departure tax. Sleeper train 25 is met by a shuttle train, which rattles over the Friendship Bridge across the Mekong into Laos, stopping the traffic which shares the bridge. This takes barely 10 min to Tha Naleng, where you get your visa and are stamped into Laos. In 2023 the sleeper fare was about 1200 baht in first class and 900 in second, the shuttle was 40 baht, and then there's your visa fee and onward minibus to Vientiane to pay. See State Railway of Thailand for timetables and fares.

You can also take any train or bus to Nong Khai then a tuk-tuk across the Friendship Bridge. The railway station is 1.5 km short of the bridge, the bus station is further. In normal times there are more services to Nong Khai and over the bridge, but these are scaled back by COVID. Decline all offers of combi-fares with visa fee or onward travel to Vientiane, these are poor value.

or Dongphosy is the current terminus of the metre-gauge railway from Thailand, 20 km east of Vientiane and 4 km north of the border. "Tha Naleng" is possibly Laotian for "middle of nowhere" and you might pay 150 baht for a minibus onward to Vientiane. Southbound to Bangkok take the afternoon shuttle from Tha Naleng to connect with Sleeper train 26, which leaves shortly after 19:00 to reach Bangkok for 06:00. Trains 25 / 26 are modern Chinese rolling stock, see Thailand by train for descriptions of standards on board.

On July 19, 2024, Thai-Lao trains are scheduled to move to the new (สถานีรถไฟคำสะหวาด), only 4.5 km from the city center. There will also be a new daily service directly from Bangkok to Vientiane, avoiding the shuttle train hassle.

By bus
Bus tickets can be bought from various travel agents in Vientiane. Transport by songthaew to designated bus terminal is invariably included in the price. It may happen that instead of going to the bus terminal the songthaew will stop at the roadside near the bus terminal and you will wait there until the bus departures and comes to pick you up. Due to this arrangement you will get to choose the last available seats. According to the songthaew driver it's because the bus station is too crowded and it's more comfortable to wait at the roadside.

Vientiane has the following bus terminals:

Domestic travel
For bus schedules, see the images taken at the various bus stations at Hobo Maps.

From Thailand
The Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge (Saphan Mittaphap) over the Mekong river is the most common means of entry. It is open daily till around 22:00 (but check with the locals if unsure) and links the
 * Thai border post in Nong Khai, Thailand with the
 * Lao border post in Thanaleng, Laos, around 20 km southeast of Vientiane.

Bridge crossing is either - via your direct bus or - via the public shuttle bus; it goes frequently just from behind Thai emigration and charges 30 baht (Jan 2024). Foot or bicycle crossing is prohibited (however, people have been seen strolling the bridge); bicycles can be carried in buses' cargo compartments

If you need a Visa on arrival, the process is
 * get stamped out at the Thai border post
 * cross the bridge to the Laos border post
 * at the immigration booth get an arrival form and fill it out
 * hand in
 * the filled-out form
 * your passport
 * two passport-sized photos. If you forgot your passport photo, they'll photocopy your passport for an extra US$1/40 baht (or do it on the Thai side for just 2 baht).
 * US dollars for the visa fee (USD 40, except for nationals of China and Vietnam who are charged USD 20 as of 2022); LAK and THB may be accepted instead, but at a poor rate; there are ATMs on the spot
 * wait some minutes until they have processed it and get back your passport (and change, where applicable)
 * check that the entry stamp is there
 * walk out past the entry fee booth, if no one stops you, you haven't done anything wrong. On weekends only you may be charged a 9,000 kip or 40 baht (2010) "overtime charge".
 * you reach the parking lot on the western side of the immigration building

To go from the Lao border post to Ventiane, it's 25 km, or at least 30 minutes by
 * taxi (300 baht) to any destination in Vientiane
 * jumbo (posted price 250 baht, but easy to bargain down to 100 baht or less for immediate departure with only one passenger) to any destination in Vientiane
 * shared jumbo if you're prepared to share (and possibly wait), at less than 50 baht/person after negotiation
 * local bus (usually Bus 14, approx. hourly between 07:20 and 18:05 according timetable) to Talat Sao (aka Morning Market Station, Central Bus Station, Vientiane Bus Station), charging 18,000 kip (Jan 2024).

Direct buses will not wait long enough for completion of the visa on arrival procedure. There are a couple of direct international cheap, comfortable, hassle-free, and popular -so book ahead or arrive early- buses to/from Talat Sao bus station (the timetable changes often): From Udon Thani airport, a 200-baht minibus ride can be purchased in the airport. You will be dropped off on the Thai border post.
 * Nong Khai, 4 per day between 7:30 and 18:00 (55 baht)
 * Khon Kaen, 2 per day (185 baht); leaving Khon Kaen Bus Terminal (Prab-argat) at 07:45 (usually delayed till 08:00) and 15:15; the trip takes around 4 hrs
 * Udon Thani, 5 per day between 8:00 and 17:30 (80 baht)

For exiting Laos over the Friendship Bridge, Bus 14 goes from Talat Sao (Morning Market) to the border post approx. hourly between 06:15 and 17:00 according to the timetable, but it is common that schedules are not obeyed, and buses may even leave ahead of time. Ask the staff. Avoid the tuk-tuk/songthaew drivers insisting it is late, slow, or gone and wanting 50,000 kip to drive you to the border before dumping you there at the mercy of their Thai equivalents on the other side. There is no exit fee at the Laos border post. However, on weekends a 9,000 kip or 40 baht (2010) "overtime charge" might apply. Just walk past the exit fee booth; if no one stops you, you haven't done anything wrong.

From Vietnam
A direct bus from Hanoi takes at least 20 hours (despite what the travel agents might say it averages 24 hr) and should cost about US$15-20. There is a twice-weekly VIP bus (better seats) and a local bus that departs every day. With the local bus you're not certain of a seat and Vietnamese people tend to sit and never get up again until arrival.

The journey from Hue is 14-18 hr and should cost US$20-30. The bus arrives to Southern Terminal where you have to bargain hard with tuk-tuks. The ride to town after midnight is 30,000 kip. There are local buses heading towards town from here that usually stop at the central market priced at about 10,000 kip.

From Cambodia
The bus trip from Phnom Penh to Vientiane costs about US$50 if you go VIP. This means you get a sleeper (bed) for the night portion of your trip. Unless, however, you have a partner you will share the rather small bed with a random passenger of the same gender. The bed is comfortable, though there have been reports of leaking windows and flooded mattresses.

At the Lao-Cambodian border, essentially the same form has to be filled out numerous times (to ensure each official gets his fee). If you can't carry your luggage 500 m from the Cambodian border post to the Lao, you're out of luck. The bus staff will have disappeared by now. The border process is hot, slow, and enervating.

Regardless of what the travel agent or bus company tells you, the Phnom Penh-Vientiane (or return) trip usually involves four separate buses, not two. The [Phnom Penh-Lao border and Pakse-Vientiane legs are comfortable enough. However, between the border and Pakse (Southern Laos) you will be crammed into a minibus or open van, sit on other people's laps, etc., as the vehicle does the rounds of every guesthouse in the region. You will eventually be transferred into another van, and the process repeated. It can take 4-6 hours, and it is seldom clear where you are, where you are going, or who is in charge.

If the bus staff talks you into putting your luggage on a second bus, because of space problems, it is liable to vanish along the road. The bus trip between Phnom Penh and Vientiane averages 27 hours.

By boat
Vientiane may be on the mighty Mekong, but it lives more in fear than in love with the river. There are no bridges across it in Vientiane, and there are no docks. A new levee is being built that will separate the town from the river by 100 m of parkland. As such, boat travel from Vientiane on the Mekong is extremely rare, slow, and expensive, especially travelling upstream.

Get around
Getting around Vientiane is generally easy, as the traffic is far less murderous than in larger Southeast Asian cities like Bangkok or Ho Chi Minh City. Street signs are rather lacking, although in the centre more and more signs are appearing. Where there are signs displaying street names they are bilingual in Lao and French. The Lao word "thanon" on these signs is translated by "road", "rue", "avenue" or "boulevard", in many cases without any apparent logic.

When talking about directions or streets with "r" in them, Laotians pronounce "r" as "l" ("plied lice" rather than "fried rice"). An example is Rue Setthathirat pronounced as "Lue Setthathilat".

Perhaps because they are shy about their English skills, it is difficult to get street directions from Laotians, even from people in police uniforms.

Maps covering the city are available at bookshops and some mini-marts, but are not as detailed and not always to scale. Many shopfronts feature addresses in Roman letters, and these are often the best way to determine the street one is walking. People navigate using landmarks, so name the nearest embassy, hotel or temple near where you want to go.

In the centre of Vientiane, the through roads Setthathirat Rd and Samsenthai Rd and the side roads connecting them and down to the river have sealed surfaces and pavements, and there is decent street lighting. A one-way traffic regime is in place (but the police are not enforcing it), and parking regulations have also been introduced.

Vientiane's rainwater drainage system, which also includes "grey water" from baths, sinks, laundries, etc., consists of gullies on the roadside, usually covered by concrete slabs. These slabs are sometimes damaged and very precariously balanced or even missing altogether. People rapidly learn to take care before stepping on anything that looks like a slab. Waste from toilets is, or should be, collected in septic tanks (at every house), but those gullies can nevertheless smell abominably. In the centre things have improved markedly as a result of the road upgrading. The smell from the gullies is now no longer very noticeable.

Do not rely exclusively on the Google Earth view of Vientiane for locating the sights: many locations put there by well-meaning users are clearly in the wrong place, not just a block or so away, but some even in a wrong part of the city.

By taxi
Vientiane has a small fleet of genuine taxis retired from Bangkok, usually found lurking at the Friendship Bridge, the airport or in front of large hotels. Fares are set by bargaining, so figure on around US$0.50 per km or US$20-40 to hire one for the day, depending on car type and distance.


 * inDrive app, has a "recommended fare" when you set the route and you can seek tender for a nominated price. seems to have more drivers than Loca
 * KOKKOK Move: electric Tuk Tuk and car taxis
 * Loca ride hailing - which has the advantage of being able to use international cards.
 * Loca ride hailing - which has the advantage of being able to use international cards.

By tuk-tuk or jumbo


Tuk-tuks and their bigger cousins, jumbos, are ubiquitous in Vientiane. If chartering a tuk-tuk/jumbo, make sure of the fare in advance. Short hops within the city should not cost more than 10,000 kip per person. In most cases, foreigners will find it difficult to get bargain prices. All the tuk-tuk drivers carry a fare card for popular destinations but these fares are ridiculously inflated. Do not pay these bogus, published fares. Walking away can make the fare drop quickly. Shared jumbos running on set routes, e.g., Lan Xang Rd to Pha That Luang, charge a fixed 10,000 kip. Tuk-tuks lined up at Mekong riverside restaurants or other busy areas will try to charge you 30,000-50,000 kip even for short trips. It's not worth trying to bargain as they won't go anywhere for a normal (10,000 kip) fare. Walk a few blocks and you get a much lower price.

By bus
Old Japanese buses and white minibuses connect the centre to the suburban districts, but they are not equipped with air-con and have no signage in English, although route numbers are usually posted on the front. A good bus map with real-time bus locations can be found here (mostly in Lao). A three-day bus pass can be bought at the airport for 45,000 kip (2020).

City Routes from the Central Bus Station include
 * Bus 8 to the Northern Bus Terminal, 5,000 kip
 * Bus 10 to That Luang, ITECC, 4,000 kip (bus stop in front of Talat Sao Mall)
 * Bus 14 to the Friendship Bridge, continues on to Buddha Park, 5,000/12,000 kip (Dec 2022)
 * Bus 23 to the Southern bus station, continues to Tha Ngon
 * Bus 28 to the Southern bus station, continues to the railway station of the LCR 15,000 kip (Nov 2022)
 * Bus 29 to the Southern bus station, continues to the university, 4,000 kip
 * Bus 31 to the university
 * Bus 32 to southern Vientiane
 * Airport Shuttle - temporarily suspended, see above Get in - By plane
 * Lao ITECC Line - temporarily suspended, see above Get in - By plane

By bike
Bicycles are perhaps the best way to get around the city. Most guesthouses and hotels can arrange bike rental for around 10,000 kip per day. (The cheapest is apparently Douang Deuane Hotel, 8,000 kip, though their bikes are not the best.) Although the city's flat terrain makes for good biking, one-way streets can be difficult to identify. You can usually choose to leave your passport, your driver's licence, about 1,000 baht, or a comparable amount of kip or dollars as a deposit. Test the bike a bit, including the brakes, before renting.

Despite the poor standard of local driving, cycling is fairly safe in the city because the traffic is quite slow. But take extra care when the roads are wet, because many are unsurfaced (even in the city centre), and they can be muddy and slippery. Innocent-looking puddles sometimes conceal deep potholes.

On foot
The city centre can be quite comfortably covered on foot, at least in the cool season. Pha That Luang, however, is 4 km away from the centre and thus a bit of a hike. Out of the city centre there are few footpaths so walking can be uncomfortable.

Crossing the street can be a nightmare. Traffic lights seem to be timed for cars only, leaving little or no time when the crosswalk is clear for pedestrians. Markings for pedestrian crossings are quite faded and the local drivers have always regarded them as decoration anyway. The crosswalk buttons and walk signals seem to be little more than decoration as well, and cars often run red lights. The only blessing is that the traffic usually moves slowly and there often isn't much of it.

By car
In Laos there are many car rental companies. If you are looking for a Western level of service, try Europcar (Asia Vehicle Rental), on Samsenthai Rd, 5 minutes from Namphu Fountain.

See
Vientiane is best viewed as a comfortable transit point for other places in Laos, or as a recuperative stop on the way out. It's a pleasant enough place, but generally, there is little reason to spend more than a couple of days here.

Temples and stupas
There are many more temples all over the town, but if you are out to admire temples Luang Prabang is the place to go, not Vientiane.

Some temples (indicated below) charge an entry fee 5,000 kip and are open 08:00-16:00, with a 12:00-13:00 lunch break. The monks at places that don’t charge a fee are grateful for a small donation.

Nearby




Banking

 * Banks and money changers are plentiful in the city centre. Money changers give a better rate than the banks. The best rates are at the shops along Rue Lane Xang in the section north of the Talat Sao Morning Market.
 * Credit cards are accepted by travel agencies and in better restaurants and shops, but many charge a non-negotiable 3% fee.

ATMs
ATMs are plentiful, but often cause problems such as out of cash or "eaten card" and sometimes do not accept the major international credit and debit card networks. In addition, most have withdrawal limits of 700,000-2,000,000 kip and charge additional fees. For preventing such trouble, tourists should withdraw money only at ATMs at bank branches.

Bicycles

 * Chinese bicycles and mountain bikes can be found in the Morning Market (Talat Sao) and in a few shops in the surrounding streets. Prices for a single gear bike start at about US$50, Mountain bikes at about US$80. In the tourist areas, bikes are rented out for 10,000 kip per day (Feb 2012).

Handicrafts

 * Look for the Stay Another Day: Laos booklet for a guide to non-profit handicraft shops, sustainable manufacturing and other NGO stuff in Vientiane and elsewhere in Laos.

Supermarkets
Most supermarkets offer groceries from Europe, wines from all over the world (thanks to the low taxation in Laos these are astonishingly low-priced considering the distances involved); dairy products from Laos itself and Thailand (milk, yoghurt), butter and cheese from Europe and New Zealand, and everything else one may need.

Mid-range




Chinese
The massive influx of Chinese investment into Laos may be controversial, but one area in which it has had an undeniably positive impact is the vastly increased quality of Chinese restaurants in Vientiane. No reason anymore to settle for the ghastly Hong Kong Restaurant or uninspired banquet fare in the big hotels. Vientiane has a growing selection of authentic regional Chinese cuisine, particularly from the southwest.

Drink


Vientiane has a few bars and clubs, but there's no shortage of places for a quiet Beerlao. In particular, the Mekong shoreline has long been the epicentre of low-key nightlife, although a massive construction project to build a flood management levee system and a riverside park has seen most of the bamboo-and-thatch beer gardens here disappear.

Sleep
There are many places to stay in Vientiane, but there are few budget accommodations. Most options are mid- to high-range and can go up to astronomic prices, which are impossible to pay in local currency, and exceed the yearly salaries of most Laotians.

Normally, just get into the town centre (for instance, Nam Phu Square) and start looking around along Setthathirat Rd and its side streets. You’ll find something within minutes except in "peak season" (Jan), when it will be really difficult to find a room. Book in advance.

High season is roughly Oct-Apr or May; low season, Jun-Sep.

Some places insist on an early nightly curfew and lock the front door without giving you a key. If you wish to enjoy the nightlife (what there is of it), make sure that you will be able to stay out and, more importantly, get in again. Often there will be a doorman who sleeps near the main entrance doors and can be woken up to get in, but it's wise to check the system they have in place for getting back in during the wee hours.

Internet
Internet cafes are ubiquitous in Vientiane, particularly along Samsenthai Rd and the east end of Setthathirat Rd. The going rate is 100 kip per minute, usually charged in 10-minute increments. Charged by the hour from 5,000-6,000 kip. Many hotels, restaurants, cafes, bars etc. have free wifi but it's often quite slow.



Post office

 * Entreprise des Postes Lao.jpg

Wi-Fi and GPRS
Laos network SIM cards such as Unitel, can be bought at the airport, together with credit and data package if required. Data packages are about 15-20,000 kip for one day, 20-40,000 kip for seven days, 60-260,000 kip for 30 days (depending on how much data you want; prices as of 2020). Thai SIM cards will work here if you are near and have a clear view across the Mekong river to Thailand on the other side.

Dogs
They can be vicious, whether they are strays or just owned by irresponsible people who don't bother closing their gates. You don't need to be out in the suburbs to be attacked. Avoid anything but well lighted, busy streets at night.

If you are bitten, see a doctor. Even if you have had a rabies vaccination before your trip you will still need a booster jab.

In Vientiane
Vientiane's hospitals are a far cry from those in the West or even in Thailand. Mahosot and Setthathirat Hospitals can treat common conditions but for anything more serious you're better off heading to Thailand where there are good private hospitals with European- and US-trained doctors.

For emergency dental treatment it's also best to go to Thailand; in Vientiane's dental clinics, they seem to resort to tooth extractions a bit too easily.

Mahosot Hospital is on the river (go to their "International Clinic" where you pay more and get more personal service, but from the same doctors who work in the hospital itself). Setthathirat Hospital is away from city centre on the T4 Road.



Mosquito-borne diseases
Vientiane is free from malaria, but dengue is a real threat, especially during the rainy season. Take the necessary precautions against mosquito bites by wearing DEET repellent (20% at least), available to purchase at any minimart. It is common practice to request a mosquito coil at dusk at outdoor venues.

Pimps
Taxi drivers will offer ladies as partners for single men as part of their all-out sales pitch. These drivers may be Thais (to a non-expert eye they look and sound the same) since they operate from unmarked vans and they always mistakenly quote prices in baht, not in kip, as if they were in Thailand.

Swimming
Don't follow the example of the locals who will bathe in anything that looks like water. There is a real risk of picking up parasites. Swimming in public pools is okay. There is one-of-a-kind garden setting on Sok Paluang Rd, and another, not in such a nice setting, on the road by the stadium.

Hotel pools are also safe. Some hotels with pools that you can use for a fee if you are not staying there: Mercure, Lao Plaza, Don Chan Palace, Settha Palace, and there are more. Recommended: the Sunday brunch (11:00-15:00) in the Mercure at 130,000 kip (plus 10% service charge and 10% taxes) including use of pool and fitness centre.

Water
The city's waterworks are called Nam PaPaa, which some may joke means "water without fishes". Yes, the fish have been removed but not much else. Don't drink the tap water, no matter how long it's been boiled (it tastes very industrial). Stick to bottled water, available everywhere, though some brands are better than others due to how different companies treat their water. Stick to common brands like Tiger Head.

Stay safe
Vientiane is a fairly safe city in terms of crime. However, bag snatching from guests sitting in front of cafes is becoming more common. Bags in the baskets of (rented) bicycles or mopeds, even when moving along, are also far from safe. Do not leave a bag in an accessible position. If your bag is snatched, immediately start shouting: the perpetrators rely on tourists reacting by silently trying to chase them without alerting the numerous police boxes.

Probably a bigger hazard than crime is the missing sewer covers on pavements. Additionally, there are many loose pavement stones that will tip if stepped on. Tread carefully and exercise extreme caution at night.

To prevent the development of a sex trade industry, so prevalent in neighbouring Thailand, Laotian law bans foreigners from having sexual relations with Laotian nationals other than their spouses. This law is enforced by the village chief and, given the fines, the incentive to enforce is high. The penalty is US$500 for the first offence, though as the text of the law is not available, the fine could be much more (the US Embassy says US$5,000); the foreign offender can face prison or deportation and the Lao woman prison. A Laotian prison is the last place anyone would want to be. If you take a girl to your room and she robs you, this law makes it almost impossible to obtain police assistance. Foreign women should note that, while rare, Laotian police enforce this law on both sexes. Bartenders are happy to provide stories of angry tourists confronting girls at the same bars they picked up the night before. Most hotels do not allow foreigners to take girls to their rooms as it is prohibited.

Homosexuality is legal and there is a fairly open gay scene in Vientiane. Since the Pathet Lao took over in 1975, the Lao government has been completely silent on LGBT rights and homosexuality. Female homosexuality is relatively frowned upon for Lao women while male homosexuality is widely tolerated. A growing acceptance of homosexuality in Laos continues. Some hotels will not allow a Lao national of the same sex into your room.

Illegal drugs are a problem throughout Laos and certainly so in Vientiane where even very young children can try to peddle "happy pills" to tourists. After declaring victory in the "war on opium" in 2005, it is not so much opium and heroin these days as methamphetamine that incurs the wrath of the authorities. Penalties are extremely harsh. Be extremely cautious of tuk-tuk drivers offering to sell you drugs, as they often collaborate with the police or police impersonators to "shake down" unsuspecting tourists.

As of 2006, the Lao PDR criminal code for drug trafficking or possession carries the following penalties:


 * Heroin: up to life imprisonment and 10 million kip fine; death penalty for possession of over 500 g.
 * Chemical substance: up to 20 years imprisonment, 50 million kip fine.
 * Amphetamines: up to 5 years imprisonment and 7 million kip fine.
 * Opium: up to 15 years imprisonment and 30 million kip fine; death penalty for possession of quantities over 3 kg.
 * Marijuana: up to 10 years imprisonment and 20 million kip fine; death penalty for quantities over 10 kg.

Long trousers and sleeves are recommended when visiting a temple or official offices. Foreign women adopting the traditional long sarong (siin) are appreciated.

Embassies

 * 🇦🇺 Australia
 * 🇨🇳 China
 * 🇹🇭 Thailand
 * 🇺🇸 United States
 * Vietnam
 * Vietnam

Go next

 * Luang Prabang a supremely charming city in the north of the country.
 * Phou Khao Khouay National Protected Area for wonderful elephants and waterfalls and fresh highland scenery.
 * Vang Vieng for a party atmosphere head three hours north to the beautiful town of Vang Vieng. Buses from Talat Sao cost 35,000 kip, but can get a little crowded.
 * Nong Khai is a very pleasant riverside Thai town just across the border on the other end of the Friendship Bridge. Well worth a visit if you are over-landing into Thailand.