Varzaneh

Varzaneh is an ancient Central Iranian desert town in Isfahan province still showing evidence of its 5,000-year-old civilization.

Understand
Varzaneh is 105 km southeast of Isfahan and 240 km from Yazd.

It has a population of 14,000 sprawling over 23,000 km² at an altitude of 1477 m above sea level. Like most parts of central Iran, it has a quite dry desert climate where, in July, temperatures can reach 40°C. The temperature sometimes drops below zero in January and February after midnight.

Varzaneh was the last civilization on the Zayanderud river since 5000 years ago. The Zayanderud river ends at Gavkhouni which is 30 km east of Varzaneh. Within the lands between wetland and Varzaneh, signs of very ancient civilization are unearthed. Further investigations on some pots that have been discovered, confirms the fact that the district of Varzaneh has been inhabited for 5,000 years.

Varzaneh is famous for its spectacular desert, which ranked as one of the most accessible deserts of Iran, in particular for tourists coming to Isfahan. Many travellers like their desert close to civilization - that way they have food and water easy to reach by car, and access to medical centres in the case of any problem.

Unique to Varzaneh, are the local women's costumes. They wear completely white chadors, while women in the rest of Iran, mostly wear black chadors.

Many local people speak an ancient Pahlavi Sasani dialect, a quite similar dialect to that spoken by the Zoroastrians in Yazd today. According to some of linguists, the word Varzaneh, has a connection to the verb Varzidan (ورزیدن), which means farming in old Persian.

Folklore attractions
Women's costumes in Varzaneh have attracted very much attention in media. In contrary to the rest of Iran, women typically wear white chadors, rather than black ones. There are basically three theories so far to describe the whiteness of women's clothes in Varzaneh. Some believe that this harks back to the Zoroastrianism religion, for which white was a holy colour. Others believe that it is because of the abundance of cotton in this region, as people have been cultivating cotton here. While some people simply think white is a comfortable colour due to hot summers.

Handicrafts: Varzaneh hand-crafted carpet is very famous in the world. Its design belongs to a general category of Na'in carpet design. Many women are still using natural threads, including silk and wool which makes the carpet of very high quality. It has been attractive for visitors to buy their carpets in Varzaneh, buying them much cheaper that in the markets of other cities. Weaving tablecloths using very traditional instruments is another item of beauty made by women. In the picture, you can see a picture of woman using such devices. The woman says: if you work hard for a whole day, you can have one table cloth of 1 m² size at sunset.

Get in
From Isfahan, travellers can go to the Jey terminal and take the Varzaneh buses or minibuses, paying 40,000 rials (Dec 2016) You do not need to make a reservation for ticket in advance. You may go directly to Jey Terminal and ask the Terminal staff where the bus (or minibus) is. Almost once per hour, 07:00-17:00, there is a bus going to Varzaneh. It takes 1 hr 45 min to reach there. Plenty of taxis are also available usually in front of Terminal to reach Varzaneh, average price is US$10-15 per car.

From Tehran, you need to go to Jonub terminal, with buses leaving at 09:00 daily to Harand, a town about 20 km away from Varzaneh. For Harand-Varzaneh, you will be finding very cheap taxis.

From Yazd, travellers can take the Yazd-Isfahan buses from Yazd terminal and ask the driver to stop in Na'in which costs 60,000 rials. Then from Na'in, it is 70 km to Varzaneh, for which you may take a taxi.

In Varzaneh, there is a regular bus to Isfahan almost one every hour until 14:00. The last bus to Isfahan from Varzaneh is at 14:00. But it does not mean that you cannot go to Isfahan after 14:00. Experiences of many hitchhikers shows that it is very easy to find a car taking you to Isfahan. Stop in front of the gas station of Varzaneh. There is big yellow shelter with a bench equipped for people doing auto-stop (hitchhiking). You do not save much money by hitchhiking, as Varzaneh-Isfahan bus costs 20,000 rials. Also, since taxi drivers frequently go to Isfahan, as they may have business, they would not charge much less than normal price. For departure, just ask local people where to find the bus terminal (autobus terminal, as the locals call it) from the only bus station in town. Private taxis are available 24 hours a day.

To reach Yazd, you must take a taxi to Na'in. From there it is very easy, as all the buses going to Yazd from Isfahan and Tehran will pass Na'in. So, if you stop at Road Police station around Na'in, you will find a bus to Yazd within 15 min. It takes all in all 3 hours to reach Yazd from Varzaneh. Taxis would also not be expensive to take you to Na'in or even to Yazd directly, as many people would go for other reasons to Yazd and Na'in. As for hitchhiking, it doesn't always work on the Varzaneh-Yazd route. But you can catch many of the buses going to Na'in paying 100,000 rials.

See









 * Other tourist spots: There are many other attractions worth sightseeing, including windmills around river, small waterfalls over Zayanderud river. Varzaneh is also very famous for Gavkhooni Wetland (swamp), Salt Lake, Salt mine and Salt plain of Khara.
 * Other tourist spots: There are many other attractions worth sightseeing, including windmills around river, small waterfalls over Zayanderud river. Varzaneh is also very famous for Gavkhooni Wetland (swamp), Salt Lake, Salt mine and Salt plain of Khara.
 * Other tourist spots: There are many other attractions worth sightseeing, including windmills around river, small waterfalls over Zayanderud river. Varzaneh is also very famous for Gavkhooni Wetland (swamp), Salt Lake, Salt mine and Salt plain of Khara.

Do

 * Desert entertainments and sports: Varzaneh desert is great place for camel-riding, horse-riding, paragliding, safari, motorcycling, camping, sand-boarding. You may find relevant photos at the bottom of the page. Equipment devices for these sports and entertainments can be found in local clubs and tourist camps, in Varzaneh and around the desert.
 * Observing sky (without and with telescope): If you pass 3 or 4 hills inside the desert, where you are safe from any light-pollution, from Varzaneh town, you would truly enjoy a glorious sky. It you go in a suitable time there, ie when it is not cloudy and moonshine is at a minimum, then you would not need a telescope to recognize many classic objects in sky. In this situation, you will be finding the Milky Way easily, even without a telescope!
 * Rent a boat: You may rent a motorboat or pedalo-boat to enjoy it in Zayanderud river. Such boats can be found to rent near the Old Bridge of Varzaneh.
 * Mountain climbing: Mount Ergesht is located in the northeast of Varzaneh, on the road to Na'in, 15 km away from Varzaneh town. Mount Ergesht is 2000 m high. There is no bus dedicated for going to this mountain. Taking a taxi is probably the best option.

Buy
Varzaneh carpets is famous regionally and worldwide. Having many silk parts, and the mixture of colors make the a typical of Varzaneh carpet light and sometimes shiny. You can order them in hotels, guest houses in Varzaneh. As more than 60% of ladies in Varzaneh are still weaving carpet in their homes, you can ask any random local also to show you his/her carpet. The prices may vary from €100-2,000, depending on the size and quality.

Also, there are several houses still weaving tablecloth. You can get many of them directly from local houses, or in guest houses, costing 10,000-400,000 rials for different sizes.

In addition, buying herbal teas, such as borage, Iranian black tea, Shirazi chamomile, henna and local sweets can be found in herbal tea shops. Local alfalfa honey and also honey from holy plant of manna also can be found, as a few families are involved in beekeeping. As Varzaneh has both farms of alfalfa and many manna in its deserts, honey from these two plants are in good quality. Heidari family have been pioneer for beekeeping, and creating beehives, supporting local agriculture as well.

Eat
Apart from dining in the following restaurant, you can ask local organic food in hotel/hostel dining sections.

Varzaneh district has a high reputation of tradition of organic (bio) food. Here is a short list of tastiest foods you may try in Varzaneh:
 * Eggplant dish (Kashk Bademjan, کشک بادمجان in Persian) As a must-to-say, it is a national food of Iran, but as a tradition, people in Varzaneh cook it very well. It basically contains walnut, olive oil, garlic, eggplant, mint, turmeric, onion and (liquid or dried) whey. In the village, additionally, they include saffron and pistachio. It is famous as one of the tastiest vegetarian food of Iran. Though, to make it as vegan food, you may ask chef to not add whey, as it is basically obtained from yogurt. You may order homemade eggplant dish in any of the hotels/hostels of Varzaneh.
 * Ghormeh Sabzi: Again as another national food of Iran, people of Varzaneh have a tradition of cooking this food more special. It mostly contain kidney beans (or red beans), parsley, leeks (or green onions instead), coriander, dried fenugreek leaves, Persian lime, a bit onion and turmeric, and chopped lamb meat.
 * Fesenjan: Pomegranate paste, chicken or duck breast, walnuts, sugar, cinnamon saffron and onion.
 * Organic bread: Still, much part of Varzaneh cuisine is free of artificial additives. You would not be surprised if you are walking in a weekend or holiday in Varzaneh, and you smell continuously bread baking smell, as indicated above almost nobody goes to bakery. Just in the bread, you usually find safflower, fennel, (black and white) sesame seeds inside/on the bread. Just ask a local you have a willing to try some. You would be always able to catch some for free, as everybody has some at homes. Almost all of the restaurants and hotels in Varzaneh provide you the food with organic local food. In religious gatherings, and also in Thursday afternoons when people gather in graveyard, you can get some 'malak', which is a kinda oil-bread cooked with turmeric and some other spices.

Drink
Getting herbal teas, and drinking some in outdoor is really suggested. In old supermarkets, as they call it Baqali, you can always get some classic herbal teas, such as borage, valerian root, and saffron. Other routine beverages such as dough also can be found all around easily.

Sleep
Most hostels and hotels are very cheap. Many tourist come to stay for a week or more to enjoy sunlight and silence in desert, as it is in between two other major destinations, Isfahan and Yazd.

Go next

 * Isfahan &mdash; former capital with stunning architecture, great bazaar, and tree-lined boulevards. Most popular tourist destination in the country. There's a Persian saying, "Isfahan is half the world."
 * Na'in
 * Yazd &mdash; a remote desert city – circumstance influenced special architectural themes where water streams run in underground rooms in houses and wind-towers to keep them cool.