Varanasi

Varanasi (Hindi: वाराणसी Vārāṇasī), once known as Benares or Banaras and Kashi, is a city at the banks of the Ganges River in Uttar Pradesh, India. Being the most sacred city in Hinduism and Jainism, and important in the history of Buddhism, Varanasi is India's most important pilgrimage destination. It was home to 1.2 million people as of 2011.

Understand


Varanasi (vah-rah-nnuh-see) is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, with settlements dating back to the 11th century BCE. Many Hindus believe that dying in Varanasi brings salvation (nirvāṇa) and so they make the trip to the city when they realise that they are close to death. For some, the culture shock of the burning corpses in plain view and the faeces overflowing from the Ganges can be a bit overwhelming. However, the scene of pilgrims doing their devotions in the River Ganga at sunrise set against the backdrop of the centuries-old temples is probably one of the most impressive sights in the world.

Climate
The city can be scorchingly hot in the summer months so instead, if possible, time your visit between October and March, and bring something warm to wear for chilly days and nights.

Tourist information

 * Varanasi tourism information

Get in
Varanasi is well connected by plane, train, and bus. Varanasi is mostly on the west bank of the Ganges. The on the north and  on the south connect the city to the eastern parts of India.

By train
There are multiple daily services to cities including Delhi (13 hours), Agra (13 hours), Lucknow (7 hours), Mumbai (25-27 hours), Kolkata (12-14 hours) and Siliguri (14-16 hours).

Varanasi is served by three major railway stations:

Here is a list of useful trains to reach Varanasi:

By bus




Arriving from Nepal
Buses are available from major cities in Nepal to the border city of Sunauli. From the Sunauli bus station, take a rickshaw (₹200) to the border crossing, get your passport stamped on the Nepali side then walk through the border. After 100 m of walking through no-man's land, you will find the Indian immigration office hidden away on the left-hand side of the road. After going through Indian immigration, walk 300 m and find the bus stop on the right-hand side. From there, take the government bus to Gorakhpur, not the private lines which are far less comfortable and stop everywhere. The bus trip between the border and Gorakhpur takes 4 hours and costs ₹60. To reach Varanasi from Gorakhpur, you can either take a train from Gorakhpur Junction (5-7 trains per day, 5.5-7 hour journey, ₹200-800 cost) or a bus (hourly, at least 8-hour journey, ₹130 cost). Budhha Air has also some packages for devotees visiting Varanasi.

The cheapest option is perhaps to take the bus in Kathmandu from the Monkey Temple to Birganj/Raxaul for about ₹700, and take a train from Raxaul to Varanasi- but you risk not making the border by 10PM because of breakdowns and the Raxaul-Varanasi train doesn't run often.

Arriving from nearby cities
There are buses run by state government from Lucknow (8 hours, ₹160), Gorakhpur (8 hours or more, ₹130), Khajuraho (12 hours, ₹250), Kanpur (9 hours - ₹195), Faizabad (7 hours, ₹105), Bodh Gaya (7 hours, ₹600) and Prayagraj (3 hours - ₹107 for AC, ₹60 w/o AC).

Get around


Many streets are too narrow to be reached by cycle-rickshaw, auto-rickshaw, and car and therefore, you may have to walk a bit to reach your destination.

By foot
Walking is the only way to see the waterfront and the ghats - but be ready to be hot, sweaty, and lost - locals are usually happy to point you in the right direction. The names of ghats and signs pointing to restaurants and hotels are often painted on the walls in Roman letters. For better orientation, walk into any bookstore and pick up a small guide/map book that will have the list and description of all the ghats.

By rickshaw
The chaotic streets of Varanasi are sometimes too much to handle on foot. Therefore, it will often be convenient to travel by cycle rickshaw or auto-rickshaw. A short journey of a few kilometres should cost under ₹50, while a longer journey within the city, such as between the ghats and the train station, will cost ₹100. Further journeys, such as to Sarnath (10 km), cost ₹500 there and back (with a one- to two-hour waiting period) or ₹300 one way by auto-rickshaw.

There is a pre-paid auto-rickshaw stand at Varanasi Junction.

By car or taxi
While taxis and cars-for-hire do exist, you can hire them for airport/railway/bus station transfers and for major city tour specially for BHU,Sarnath and Ramnager tour. You Can travel from other cities to varanasi by Car as its well connected by major cities of country.

By bicycle
Bicycle rental is available from many vendors. Inquire at your hotel.

See
Varanasi is not a city with distinct tourist destinations; the experience is in watching the spectacle of life and death on the river and meandering through the alleys of the old city.



Ghats and the Ganges
The Ganges is the most sacred river in the world for Hindus, and you will see traditional rituals and bathing occurring at all times of the day. On the Eastern banks, the Ganges is flanked by a 300-m-wide sand belt, beyond which lies a green belt, a protected area reserved for turtle breeding. The western crescent-shaped bank of the River Ganga is flanked by a continuous stretch of 84 ghats, or series of steps leading down to the river, stretching for 6.8 km. These ghats were built by Hindu kings who wanted to die along the Ganges, and they built lofty palaces along the river, most of which are now hotels, to spend their final days. You can walk along the river and see all of the ghats, but the best option for viewing the ghats is to charter a boat and see them from the river.

Hindus consider it auspicious to die in Varanasi, so some ghats are known as burning ghats, where over 200 corpses per day are cremated in full view before their ashes are eased into the Ganges.

Some of the most popular ghats, from north to south:



Temples




Do



 * Bathe in the Ganges - Over 60,000 people come to the ghats every day to take a dip in the sacred waters of the Ganga, most notably at sunrise. This is a fantastic sight to see. However, due to the sewage pipes that discharge faaeces into the river, along with sunken corpses, there is a risk of infection from numerous diseases such as hepatitis and bacteria such as e-coli. Reports have shown that the Ganges water has a faeca coliform MPN of 88,000 per 100 ml, compared to a desirable faecal coliform MPN of 500 per 100 ml.
 * Walking tours are operated by many companies, walking tours are a great way to see some of the harder-to-find sights such as the Flower Market and Ayurvedic Herb Market
 * Boat rides - Very popular, especially at sunrise and sunset. Boats can either be rowboats or motorboats. The most popular sunset ride is to start at Dasaswamedh Ghat or one of the many ghats along the river and head up to Manikarnika Ghat to see the cremations, then down to Dasaswamedh just after sunset to watch the evening aarti ceremony from the boat. Sunrise is another magical time for a ride, when the ghats are filled with Hindus bathing and starting their day - one of the most famous sights in India. You can bargain the price of the boat ride to around ₹50/person per hour. During the boat ride, other boats, usually manned by children, will float up to your boat to sell bowls with flowers and a candle to be offered to the river (₹10) or masala chai (₹10), or various trinkets that are overpriced. It is recommended to avoid polluting the river further by 'offering' non-biodegradable objects to the river. At Nishadraj Ghat, a few minutes walk from Assi Ghat, you can find a boat driver named Bhomi, a local singer renowned for his incredible voice and charming, beautiful songs; during the boat ride he sings anything from local folk songs to modern film songs and old devotional ones, and often improvises lyrics over his own songs to communicate with you and the various people gathered on the ghats.
 * Explore the alleyways  - The network of historical lanes and alleys behind Dasaswamedh, Man Mandir, Tripura Bhairavi, and Meer Ghat are not to be missed. In the main alley behind Dasaswamedh Ghat (entrance to the left at the top of the stairs), there are hole in the wall chai and lassi shops, silk merchants, western-style cafes, a small perfumery, a traditional instrument store, and a number of handicraft stalls. Sadly, though, other than the notable exceptions of Gangtok and Shimla, Indian cities refuse to ban bikes, regardless of how narrow an alley may be, and Varanasi is no exception. So the opportunity to savour the unique atmosphere of an ancient Indian city is somewhat destroyed by having to avoid bikes and listen to the sound of constant honking of horns. Still, despite this drawback, the lanes are a must for any traveller visiting Varanasi..

Festivals

 * Chhath Pooja (November) - The four day festival for the sun god, Dala aka Surya. Rituals include holy bathing, fasting and abstaining from drinking water (Vratta), standing in water for long periods of time, and offering prashad (prayer offerings) and aragh (water) to the setting and rising sun.
 * Deepavali, or Diwali (October–November) - The five day festival of lights. The special decorations, ceremonies at the temples, and aarti ceremony at the ghats are spectacular. After Diwali there is a day known as Dev Deepavali. On this day all the ghats have oil lamps lit on the ghat steps which is a very pleasant sight to watch. Use the boat ride if you are not with any local. Avoid walking through the ghat on that day.
 * Maha Shivaratri (February) - A Hindu festival celebrating Lord Shiva, who lived in Varanasi according to Hindu mythology. On this day, the streets of Varanasi are filled with pilgrims and parades dedicated to Shiva occur all day. Entrance to temples will require long queue and the temples will be extremely crowded. The day of Shivaratri is also the last day of the Dhrupad Mela, a festival of "Hindustani" (a form of Indian classical music) that goes on night and day for about 72 hours.

Yoga classes
Yoga classes are very popular among visitors to Varanasi.



Ayurveda treatment classes
Ayurveda treatment is common in Varanasi and you can take classes to learn the techniques:

Buy
Varanasi is famous for its fine silk - it's on offer everywhere, but shop around and haggle!

Eat


Banarasi Khana, or local delicacies, are known for their flavours. Many dishes here are flavoured with asafoetida, ginger, bay leaves, cloves, cardamom, cinnamon, and/or dried fenugreek leaves.

Benares Dum Aloo is different from the dum aloo cooked elsewhere in India because the potatoes are stuffed with and cooked in gravy that includes jaggery, fennel, and chilli paste.

Varanasi is also known for its street food and chaat vendors. Aloo chaat is very common.

Varanasi Paan is famous all over India. Paan is an assortment of flavours wrapped in a betel leaf. There are two versions: One that includes tobacco, and one that includes only sweet flavours. The exact ingredients depend on how much you offer, which can be as little as ₹10 or as much as ₹300. To eat the sweet version, shove the entire leaf in your mouth at once and chew until you swallow!

Lassi from Pahalwan Lassi at Ravidas Gate in Lanka. Age-old shop for delicacies like Lassi, Malaiyyo and Rabri.

Rabri Malai Balai is a popular dessert in Varanasi that includes milk, sugar, almonds, and pistachio nuts. You can find it served in hole-in-the-wall or sweet shops.

There are plenty of food outlets with a very dynamic range in quality. The restaurants closer to the ghats cater more to foreign tourists, with variable success.

Local delicacies

 * Kashi Chat Center: (near Godowlia Crossing) Good assortment of exotic chats. Try out the Aloo Tikia Chat.
 * Lotus lounge: (at mansoravor ghat) through the alleys, great food a must for every visitors.
 * Madhur Jalpan: The best place for laddoos and other famous sweet delicacies is 'Madhur Jalpan', a shop that has been frequented by more than two prime ministers of India! Madhur Jalpan is on Baradev - next to the Kainiya Chitra Mandir. Again, on a small alleyway, but the sweets are to die for.
 * Shiv Lassi Bhandar: (near the main gate of RamNagar Fort) Lassi with layers of Malai and Rabri. Superb Stuff.

Budget

 * A C Shahi Restaurant & Kesari Restaurant near Dasashwmedh ghat in Godaulia and Shahi Restaurant near Rathyatra crossing serve very good vegetarian north and south Indian dishes.
 * Cozy Corner Restaurant (CCR) Homely, healthy and hygienic is the motto of CCR. They specialise in Indian, South Indian and Chinese and serve fantastic dosas and chole bhature. It's a nice cozy place to hang out and the service is superb. Located just down the street from Assi Ghat. Turn left on Dumrao Bagh (first street when walking from the ghat) and walk about 50 m, just past Open Hand. Phone +91 9369305877.
 * Diamond Hotel and Jaika Restaurant near Vijaya Talkies Crossing in Bhelupur serve very good north Indian dishes.
 * Dosa Cafe, (in the main alley behind the ghats, north of the main ghat) serves delicious South Indian dishes for a good price.
 * Ganga Paying Guest House & Rooftop Restaurant, (near Assi Ghat on the bank of River Ganges) +91 9936491103. A very nice place to eat with an awesome view of River Ganges and all the ghats. The food is very nice but it takes a little time but with that beautiful view you would like to spend more time sitting there even without food.
 * Karki's Restaurant If you're in Assi Ghat this place is a great oasis with a rooftop restaurant that serves cheap but great quality Nepalese & Italian food among others. Highly recommended are the Nepalese Thali and Fresh Basil Pesto Pasta (only Saturday & Sunday). It's on the main road down to Assi Ghat on the left, look for the green roof as it's upstairs and has a small entrance. Say hi to Karki and his gorgeous daughter who loves to poke faces at guests.
 * Mona Lisa Cafe, (just south and opposite Shiva Cafe). Another good and popular cheapie, with a good range of things on offer, notably a thali for ₹20, and some Japanese and Korean dishes thrown in for good measure.
 * Shiva Cafe and German Bakery, D 26/4 Narad Ghat, (near Himalaya Lodge). In the main little alleyway that runs parallel to the river between Dasaswamedh Ghat and Assi Ghat, this place is deservedly popular. The food takes time, but that's because it's prepared fresh, and you'll be happy you waited when the food arrives. Staffed by enterprising Nepalis this has authentic pastas, sandwiches etc. Healthy food. Favourite among long stay residents.
 * Suryoday, (in the alley behind the ghats, a few minutes walk South of Kedar ghat) small but delicious menu in a clean little spot by Kedar Ghat.
 * Shiva Cafe and German Bakery, D 26/4 Narad Ghat, (near Himalaya Lodge). In the main little alleyway that runs parallel to the river between Dasaswamedh Ghat and Assi Ghat, this place is deservedly popular. The food takes time, but that's because it's prepared fresh, and you'll be happy you waited when the food arrives. Staffed by enterprising Nepalis this has authentic pastas, sandwiches etc. Healthy food. Favourite among long stay residents.
 * Suryoday, (in the alley behind the ghats, a few minutes walk South of Kedar ghat) small but delicious menu in a clean little spot by Kedar Ghat.
 * Suryoday, (in the alley behind the ghats, a few minutes walk South of Kedar ghat) small but delicious menu in a clean little spot by Kedar Ghat.

Mid-range

 * Flavours Cafe, Lanka, (above axis bank). Great coffee and desserts. Strong filter coffee and lightly accented lattes with a quiet ambiance make for a needed break from the city. Free wireless is also a plus.
 * Megu Cafe, Kalika Gali (near Meer Ghat), has excellent vegetarian Japanese food made by a Japanese woman who settled in Varanasi a number of years ago. All dishes are ₹85 or less. Closed on Sundays. [December 2011] Menu prices of all items have increased and expect to pay around ₹100-130 for a vegetarian and around ₹180-200 for non vegetarian main meal.
 * Moti Mahal Delux restaurant - in Sigra, 3rd Floor, IP Mall, in the heart of the city. +91 542–2220555. One of the best Indian and mughlai restaurant in the city with a unique fine dining experience. Also provides free delivery of your meal at any location in the city. Also serves authentic Chinese and continental.
 * Zaika restaurant - in Shivala, opposite Hotel Broadway. Good Indian / Chinese dishes; try the sweet-corn-pakoras.
 * Megu Cafe, Kalika Gali (near Meer Ghat), has excellent vegetarian Japanese food made by a Japanese woman who settled in Varanasi a number of years ago. All dishes are ₹85 or less. Closed on Sundays. [December 2011] Menu prices of all items have increased and expect to pay around ₹100-130 for a vegetarian and around ₹180-200 for non vegetarian main meal.
 * Moti Mahal Delux restaurant - in Sigra, 3rd Floor, IP Mall, in the heart of the city. +91 542–2220555. One of the best Indian and mughlai restaurant in the city with a unique fine dining experience. Also provides free delivery of your meal at any location in the city. Also serves authentic Chinese and continental.
 * Zaika restaurant - in Shivala, opposite Hotel Broadway. Good Indian / Chinese dishes; try the sweet-corn-pakoras.
 * Zaika restaurant - in Shivala, opposite Hotel Broadway. Good Indian / Chinese dishes; try the sweet-corn-pakoras.

Middle-Eastern food
Possibly due to a high influx of tourists from Israel, a number of Middle Eastern restaurants have opened in Varanasi, all of which serve very similar food, cater to a predominantly tourist clientèle, and charge a little over ₹100 for a thali.
 * Haifa Cafe: Assi Ghat, (in Hotel Haifa). Most popular for its Middle-Eastern cuisine such as the thali (delicious!), but has a wide range of Indian and continental dishes and is also popular at breakfast. The Jordanian brothers aren't here anymore. Now it is just a regular hotel. The food is awful too with the Jordanians gone.
 * Hayat mediterreian': near Assi (new location= behind dumraon bag colony park), managed by middle-easterners from Jordan. Try the labanha (dry yoghurt), or the baba ghanSoush (aubergine / eggplant) with pita. The feta is a tad high in salt. The restaurant has a tent-like lounge atmosphere that gives it a cult presence. Ask for "hello to the queen" and see smiles. Very good quality, pleasant open air magnetosphere.
 * Phulwari / Sami Cafe: near the Vishwanath Temple crossing, you sit beside a religiously near-defunct but architecturally gorgeous Mahadev temple, and sip on iced teas and nanas. Some locals still consider this a holy site and aren't too happy about the cafe being so close. This temple has been usurped by thugs who sponsor this restaurant. Perhaps avoid on ethical grounds. No other heritage Indian temple has a restaurant in its courtyard.

Coffee
Coffee is not as common in Varanasi as it is in the bigger and more cosmopolitan cities, and is often just available as the instant variety, served black or white. Even in those cafes that serve real coffee, it is still hit or miss whether it is of standard taste. All the cafes listed here at least sell the real stuff.



Tea
While chai shops are found throughout the city, a few are worthy of special note.

Alcohol
Alcohol is available at a few restaurants and hotels, such as the Radisson and Taj. There are several wine shops in the old city but they don't offer any sitting arrangement. You can buy whatever you want and bring it to your hotel room.



Other drinks
Bhang is a potent, powdered form of marijuana often mixed into "special" lassis, simply called bhang lassi. The drink is especially popular on holidays as Varanasi is a major centre of Shiva worship as it is offered to the lord in form of Prashad. Caution should be taken as it can be quite intoxicating and the effects last hours; tourists have been known to be robbed after consuming bhang.

Thandai is a cool, milk-based drink made with pistachios, almonds and saffron, topped off with a large dollop of malai (cream). Bhang is often added to thicken the concoction, though it can be made without it. Many Thandai stores are located near the main Godowlia, and most also serve lassi.

Sleep


The most interesting area to stay is around the ghats, which are the main attractions for foreigners and are close to the religious attractions. However, this area is extremely noisy and many accommodation choices here are subpar, so do some research before you book. An alternative to staying in Varanasi is to stay near the main railway station (Varanasi Junction). This area has some very nice places and is about 10 minutes away on a tuk-tuk. Another alternative is the much quieter Sarnath, 10 km from Varanasi, but it takes more than 75 minutes each way to reach Varanasi by tuk-tuk (₹200).

Some budget accommodations advertise free morning and evening boat rides along the river. However, the boat will take you up the river and then let the passengers know that for the return trip, there is a fee of ₹60 per person. Those who do not want to pay can get out of the boat and walk back.

Varanasi, particularly during summer, is prone to many hours of power outages a day. It is best to double check that your fan or air-con is run from a backup generator, or you may not have it for much of the day.

Budget
Cheaper hotels and hostels can be found around the "Assi ghat" and train station areas, check hot water and wifi for yourself.

Stay safe
Violent crime is rare, but still do be careful in the lanes after dark.

Power outages
Carry a light or phone; power outages are now rare, but due to sleeping cows and broken paving stones, the alleys are hard enough to navigate in daylight, let alone in pitch dark.

Stray dogs
Though generally well behaved, packs of stray dogs can become aggressive at night

Rickshaw and taxi scams
Rickshaw and taxi scams are common in Varanasi, and the driver will inevitably tell you that the hotel that you wish to go to has burned down, is flooded, or closed. Don't believe him. Drivers receive commission from hotels for bringing in new guests, and this is one way to trick newcomers to going to these places. Don't get annoyed, but see the exchange as playful banter and part of the Varanasi experience. However, if the driver continuously refuses to follow your instructions, threaten to get out of the rickshaw. If after all this you still end up to a different place, just refuse to pay until you arrive at your hotel. The same procedure will need to be followed when sight seeing, as drivers will inevitably try to take you to handicraft stores, from which they receive commission. If calling for a pickup from a more respectable hostel, be wary that other taxi drivers may listen in to your phone conversation then tell another taxi driver who will pick you up pretending to be your hostel, then take you to a commission charging hostel.

Cremation ghat scams
As you approach Manikarnika Ghat, you will be approached by touts posing as cremators or volunteers in a local hospice. These people will explain the cremation process and even lead you to a good viewpoint. They will then take advantage of your emotions by asking you to pay for some wood to burn the body of someone who can't afford it. They will usually insist on receiving ₹500; if you offer less, it will initially be declined. This is a scam. Either tell him you have no money or that you don't feel comfortable donating.

Air pollution
Varanasi is one of the most polluted cities in the world. Many websites show air quality readings taken in the early morning, when pollution is at its lowest. Hourly air quality data is available here. Keep an eye on air quality data and consider wearing a (certified) mask, especially if you are spending an extended period of time in the city.

Cremation ghats
There is, rather understandably, some resentment at tourists tresspasing up to the cremation ghats for raucous sightseeing at the funeral ceremonies of loved ones. Behave respectfully and do not take photographs of cremations, even from the river. You can take photographs if it is from a distance; most do not mind. There are touts who for a fee will "stop minding". Note that if it is the family that objects then you have to respect it but not if local touts object in the interest of extracting money. Offer the money and if they seem ready to accept, withdraw it and photograph. Call the police if necessary.

Temples
Since this city is full of temples you will have to take off your shoes or sandals at every point, so wear flip-flops which are easy to take off.

Connect
BSNL, Jio, Vi and Airtel are the most popular cell phone services in the region. If you bring your GSM cellphone from home, you can buy a SIM card and call within India and abroad. You will need your passport and a passport photo to buy a SIM card.

Wi-Fi is available at just about every hotel or restaurant that caters to foreign tourists. Internet Cafes are common, especially in the lanes between Dasaswamedh Ghat and Assi Ghat. Usually, the shopkeepers will record your passport information before giving you access to the Wi-Fi.

Calling abroad is cheap from Iway branches.

Go next

 * Agra - the next point on the tourist "Golden Triangle". Buses and trains, including overnight trains, leave several times a day.
 * Bodh Gaya - the place where Lord Buddha gained enlightenment, and the most sacred place to Buddhists - 6 to 7 hours by bus.
 * Delhi - The capital can be reached via a 13-hour train journey.
 * Gaya - One of the most sacred places to do Pind Dan (funeral offerings for the benefit of the soul of the deceased). A 4+ hour drive from Varanasi.
 * Jaunpur - The district just northwest of Varanasi. Primarily a rural area.
 * Khajuraho - South of Varanasi. A number of 1,000-year-old Hindu and Jain temples. A little remote, but worth the effort to get there.
 * Lucknow - The capital of Uttar Pradesh. Known for its refined cuisine. A convenient place to break a journey to Delhi or Rishikesh.
 * Chunar - Located 55 km away Chunar is known for its gigantic fort overlooking the Ganges. The town is also known for Mughal era tomb and dargha along with a British era Christian cemetery.
 * Prayagraj (Allahabad) - Another spiritual city along the Ganges, Prayagraj can be reached via a 3-hour bus journey.
 * Sarnath - The place where Buddha gave his first teaching after his enlightenment, and one of the four main pilgrimage sites for Buddhists. 10 km from Varanasi (ghat area) - 1 hour by auto. Rates from Assi Ghat: Auto - ₹400 one way - ₹700 return, including an hour waiting time. Taxi - over ₹1,500 for a return journey, including one hour waiting time. (updated March 2023)