Valparaíso

Valparaíso is a city of almost 300,000 people (2017) on the Pacific coast of Central Chile. Frequently referred to as simply Valpo, it is about 120 km west of the capital, Santiago. The city is widely known for its bohemian culture, brightly colored houses, and beautiful seaside views.





Understand
Valparaiso is an important port town, and has been for hundreds of years, resulting in its being made a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2003.

Its location on the shipping routes before the completion of the Panama Canal, has left a legacy that still can be seen in various features of the old port town. Its location in the earthquake zone, and the disastrous earthquake of 1906, is another legacy. There have been more recent earthquakes as well.

The old town is surrounded with features that reflect the rich maritime heritage, and an important location of Chilean national pride - where its naval mastery was challenged and maintained.

When roaming the chaotic, hilly streets, and taking in the views and ambience, you are not just experiencing the port and the colorful houses, or the funicular railways, but a complex history of Chilean national identity and politics.

The old town can be compared to the more modern Vina del Mar just to the north, and the hinterland that leads over to Santiago.

There is also an active nightlife and a constantly changing variety of artistic events.

By plane
Valparaiso does not have its own airport. The closest airport with commercial service is Arturo Merino Benitez International Airport in Santiago, some 1½ hr away, which offers extensive domestic and international service.

To get to Valparaíso from Santiago's airport, requires catching a bus heading to Pajaritos from outside of the airport terminal.

This will drop you off at the north side of "Pajaritos" a bus/subway station on the outskirts of Santiago, cross to the south side of the subway station to get to the bus platform.

From here, buses leave frequently for Valparaiso and other destinations; you may also take the subway into downtown Santiago. It is generally not necessary to have a bus ticket before arriving at Pajaritos. A ticket between Pajaritos and the airport with Centropuerto bus company is 1700 pesos.

By train
The Metro Valparaíso or Merval runs between Valparaiso and Limache, as well as surrounding communities including Viña del Mar. It runs from 06:00 to 23:30, and is new, clean and fast. Adult fares range from 204 pesos to 1080 pesos depending on the time of day and the distance travelled, but value cards of a minimum of 1200 pesos must be used; single tickets are not sold.

By car
While Valparaiso can be a bit of a difficult city in which to drive, the area's highway system is generally of good quality. There are often tolls on highways.

By bus
Buses from a wide variety of destinations within Chile have scheduled service to Valparaiso, in addition to service to the Argentine city of Mendoza. The bus terminal is near the National Congress building.

Approximate bus travel times to Valparaiso:
 * 1.5 hr: Santiago (many times every hour, the trip may take much longer if there's congestion)
 * 7 hr: La Serena (every other hour)
 * 12 hr: Mendoza, Argentina (the road may be closed in winter due to bad weather)

Local buses also ply between Viña del Mar and Valparaiso, taking about 15 minutes each way. Fares range from 350 to 380 pesos.

By boat
Some cruise ships dock in Valparaiso, mostly as part of a long South American itinerary. Also possible is a Freighter Cruise from Mexico, taking two weeks and making several stops along the way.

By bus
The city micros are run by Transporte Metropolitano Valparaíso. Exact routes and fares can be found under "Empresas" on the website, and single journeys cost about 250 pesos for local routes and 300 pesos for routes running between El Plan and the hills.

By taxi
Colectivos are taxis painted in black with yellow roofs that run fixed routes, and are a very common mode of transport between (and within) Valparaiso, Viña del Mar, and other surrounding areas. The cost of the trip, while more expensive than the bus or metro, depends upon the distance being traveled following a system of zones. There are also regular taxis that do custom rides, but they are less common and more expensive. This type of taxis often congregate in the area around the Plaza Anibal Pinto.

By train
The light-rail system, Metro Valparaíso or Merval, runs along the coast. It starts at Valparaiso's port and heads into Viña del Mar, reaching Limache through Quilpué and Villa Alemana. The metro provides quick access to major places of interest, and is only slightly more expensive than taking public buses. Adult fares range from 204 to 1,080 pesos depending on the time of day and the distance travelled, but value cards of a minimum of 1,350 pesos must be used; single tickets are not sold.



By funicular
Ascensores, funiculars, ply between El Plan, or the coastal strip, with the cerros, or hillside communities. They are for the most part old and creaky, but generally reliable. There were historically a bigger number operating in the past. Check - as some close for repairs or simply don't operate any more. The fare may sometimes differ between going up and going down, but cost about 300 pesos each way. The ascensors are a unique mode of transportation in Valparaiso, and offer gorgeous views of the cityscape, port, and the Pacific Ocean. A particularly interesting one is the Polanco. This is located just off Avenida Argentina at Simpson. Rather than a funicular, it is the only vertical elevator whose entrance is at street level. You walk through a 150-m-long tunnel where it can take you to two distinct levels, the highest of which is a tower, an excellent place to get a great view of the city, being 60 m above the entrance.

See

 * Cerros Alegre and Concepción
 * Plaza Echaurren – Serrano Street
 * Cerro Cordillera
 * Banking area - Prat Street
 * Paseo 21 de Mayo (Cerro Artilleria)
 * La Matriz Church and surroundings
 * Ascensores (inclines)
 * La Sebastiana, one of three homes of poet Pablo Neruda
 * Ex Cárcel, a former jail turned cultural center and concert venue

Do




Learn
The universities of Valparaiso are:


 * Technical University Federico Santa María
 * University of Valparaíso
 * University of Playa Ancha
 * Pontifical Catholic University of Valparaíso

Many international students study at the Catholic University and the University of Valparaiso.

Buy
Valparaiso has larger chain department stores like Ripley, located in front of Victoria Square, and Falabella on Independencia street, and large supermarket chains like Líder on Pedro Montt and Brasil streets; Santa Isabel on Pedro Montt, Brasil and Uruguay streets, as other small and non-chain supermarkets. There are other small or non-chain and specialized stores on Esmeralda, Condell, Pedro Montt, Independencia and Chacabuco streets, most other shopping is done in small stores on the hills, or with street vendors. There is a large shopping centre on the eastern end of Avenida Brasil.

Eat
The most traditional food for tourists in Valparaiso is the Chorrillana, a heaping mound of french fries topped with steak, onion, and eggs. You can eat this in the traditional restaurant J Cruz. Fresh seafood is readily available in many restaurants around the city, especially around the muelle (wharf) areas, and is considered a must for any seafood lover.

Bakeries are located on nearly every block, and produce quite delicious breads that can be had warm and right out of the oven at almost any time throughout the day. They are best enjoyed smothered with Palta, which are grown en masse in Chile (palta is the Chilean and Argentinian word for what is known the anglo world like "avocado", known in most other Spanish-speaking countries as aguacate). In addition to the many types of bread, another widely available snack to keep you settled as you walk the streets are empanadas, a flaky pastry filled with meat or cheese.

Budget
On the second floor of the Mercado Cardonal (cnr Ave Brasil and Uruguay) there are a few excellent, cheap and midrange restaurants serving lunch.



Drink
On weekends, the time to go out for a drink (Chilean people call it "salir de carrete") starts no earlier than midnight, though somewhat earlier during the week. The pubs and clubs close at 05:00 on weekends, and 04:00 on weekdays.

Drinking alcohol in the streets is not allowed and 18 years is the minimum age for drinking alcohol, though enforcement of these rules is somewhat lax. If you are under 18, you may not be allowed entry into some pubs.

Chile is a major wine-producing country, and bottles of fairly tasty wines can be had for slightly more than US$1.

Nightlife

 * La Torre - offers inexpensive drinks, and is frequented by university students
 * Balmaceda
 * Barcelona
 * La Piedra Feliz - a more expensive and touristy club that often features salsa dancing, mosty for the older crowds
 * Club El Cielo
 * Club Stockolmo
 * Club El Huevo - one of the largest dance clubs in Valparaiso (five floors), diverse music, and a rooftop bar
 * Bar La Playa
 * Mascara - caters to an artsy and gay/lesbian crowd

Many clubs and bars are also found in Viña del Mar. Public transportation and taxis continue to run throughout the night, making it entirely feasible to have accommodations in one city while going out for the night in the other.

Stay safe
In the context of Chile being a relatively safe country, Valparaiso is among its more dangerous locales, like many harbour cities around the world. Mainly, watch out for pickpockets, for instance avoid hanging your purse or bag in the back of your chair when seated, because it may get stolen. Violent crime is very uncommon, but normal precautionary measures should be taken; while in the street, do not display expensive jewelry. The port area (called "Puerto") is generally considered to be dangerous even during the day.

Cope

 * There is a laundry in the mall of Hotel Prat. 5 kg 3700 pesos.

Consulates

 * 🇬🇷 Greece

Go next

 * Viña del Mar - The beach town Vi&ntilde;a del Mar is only ten minutes by train from Valparaíso, and slightly longer by bus. If you take bus 612 from Plaza Echaurren you will get a full tour of the Valpo hills, and you can jump off at La Sebastiana.
 * The idyllic village Quintay is 45 minutes to the south by car. Take a colectivo from Calle 12 de Feberero, behind the bus terminal, they leave as soon as they fill up. 1400 pesos.
 * Concón is a small town near Valparaiso (25 to 30 minutes in car). Here you find a big gastronomic activity. The city is called "capital gastronomica de Chile" which means "gastronomical capital of Chile"; even Anthony Bourdain was here and he ate at "Las Deliciosas", where he said, he ate the best "empanadas" (a typical Chilean dish). Other places to eat are "El Secreto", "La Gatita" (a very good place to eat seafood) and "Picada Horizonte".