Valle de Guadalupe

Valle de Guadalupe (Guadalupe Valley) is in Mexico outside the city of Ensenada and is the premier wine producing region of Mexico. It is a popular tourist destination for wine and Baja Med cuisine, a fusion of Mexican cuisine and Mediterranean cuisine. The region features more than 180 wineries and an ever-growing list of boutique hotels and spas.

Understand
The region includes a number of small towns and villages including (from south to north) San Antonio de Las Minas, Francisco Zarco, Porvenir, and San Antonio Necua.

The Valle de Guadalupe is equivalent to two-thirds of the Napa Valley in size and the climatic conditions are very similar to those of the French southwest (Rhone Valley). It has a Mediterranean microclimate that is conducive to winemaking activities. Most Mexican wines are produced in the Valle de Guadalupe, though there are other, smaller wine producing regions in other states, particularly in the Bajio region.

Climate
The climate is Mediterranean, a little more extreme due to its distance from the coast (25 km). Mornings are often damp and misty with a layer of fog floating over the vineyards. It has very hot and dry summers, without rain but with a breeze at night from the coast, mild and slightly cold, humid winters, the rainy season is between November and March. Temperatures are generally stable throughout the year, but when the direction of the winds changes from the continent to the sea, temperatures can rise well above normal whatever the time of year. This condición santana phenomenon generally affects northern Baja California and southern California, and generally lasts 2 to 4 days.

Terroir
Terroir is a term that includes climate, but more broadly, refers to any physical aspect of a region that can affect grapes and ultimately, uniquely local impacts on the flavor. In addition to climate, it is affected by the soil character (especially how it drains or retains water), by nutrients in the soil, by whether a vineyard is located in a place with direct afternoon sun or shade from nearby mountains. It also might be affected by the character of nearby industries, or products of adjacent farms.

The Guadalupe Valley is often said to have a "Mediterranean climate" because of its warm temperatures and bright sunshine, but there's also factors make Guadalupe Valley different from the Mediterranean, or Napa for that matter (and by extension, its terroir will be different). The Guadalupe Valley is close to the Pacific Ocean and has steady cooling breezes and a propensity for early morning fog that brings moisture to the vineyards. The soil is mostly sandy loam on the valley floor, with more granite in the foothills as you get close to the mountains (where several of Guadalupe Valley's most interesting small vineyards are found). Also be aware that some wines may inherit a terroir that's different from the winery's own grapes because grapes are commonly purchased from other growers, perhaps to satisfy demand when crops don't produce as expected, perhaps to get a different varietal (or old growth grapes). Purchased grapes may come from three other nearby valleys with similar, but slightly different terroirs.

Get in
The Guadalupe Valley is 20 km (12 mi) north of the City of Ensenada and 113 km (70 mi) southeast of the border crossing from San Diego to Tijuana. From Ensenada, drive north on MEX 1 and then turn onto MEX 3 heading north. From the north, you can follow MEX 1 south of Tijuana, but a better route might be to take the Ruta de Vino, MEX 3, south from Tecate (from San Diego, cross the border at Garita de Otay, then take MEX 2D east towards Tecate before turning south onto MEX 3).

An alternative route that is slower but more scenic and passes by dozens of lesser known vineyards is to take Carratera Francisco Zarco from MEX 1, passing through several towns, ending in Guadalupe (where you can connect to MEX 3). You will pass dozens of wineries and drive through areas surrounded by vineyards.

By bus
ABC operates one to three buses per day (more on weekends, less during the week) from Ensenada to Valle de Guadalupe. The 45-minute trip costs M$60 on the second-class bus or M$575 on the first-class ABC Plus bus.

Several tour companies operate private tour buses or Sprinter vans that leave from the San Ysidro border crossing to Valle de Guadalupe. Buses do not go to Guadalupe Valley from the Tijuana bus station, but you could take one to Ensenada then use an Uber or taxi to visit wineries. ABC buses depart Tijuana at least hourly.

By boat
Many cruise ships from the United States make port calls in nearby Ensenada. The cruise lines always have day tours to the wine country of Guadalupe Valley. This is an easy way for many visitors to experience the flavors of Baja wines and cuisine without worrying about travel logistics. The disadvantage is that the day trips offer a very limited amount of time in the valley.

Get out
If you're driving your own car from San Diego or Los Angeles, it is far better and faster to go home via the border crossing at Tecate or Garita de Otay than at Tijuana. The U.S. Border Patrol has an app that tells you estimated wait times at border crossings. It is almost always wrong, often under-estimating waits by a factor of 2 or 3. The scenic and lightly traveled MEX 3 is an easy drive, and even though it's a longer distance than MEX 1, you always make up the time difference with shorter waits for the notoriously inefficient U.S. checkpoints.

Get around
Many visitors tour the valley on day trips from cruise ships docked in Ensenada, but that short tour provides only the briefest glimpse in the world of Baja wines. There are a lot of wineries in the area and a great number of upscale restaurants and inns. The Guadalupe Valley is a region that richly rewards the slower traveler who spends at least several days exploring all the region affords. Renting a car in Ensenada is a good way to explore the area on your own schedule, and lets you visit multiple vineyards in the same day. Tour operators in Ensenada also offer daily and overnight packages to visitors not on a pre-packaged cruise ship itinerary.

By car
Most of the roads are usually well maintained dirt roads that may have potholes, especially after a rain. Small cars with low ground clearance may occasionally have problems. Be courteous of bicyclists and field hands and slow down to avoid kicking up huge dust clouds as you pass.

Uber is available in Valle de Guadalupe and in Ensenada. Arranging a full day with an Uber or taxi driver is an excellent approach because it gives you flexibility in your schedule, a local who knows the roads, and a designated driver so you can drink the wines without worrying about getting pinched in a sobriety checkpoint.

By bike
The Guadalupe Valley is easy to traverse by bicycle and many of the small dirt backroads are a joy to ride. Finding the wineries is easy: just look for the blue and white winery signs. Signage in the region is excellent. Many of the wineries are close together and often offer lodging. An excellent multi-day bike itinerary could easily be put together. Allow as little as a weekend to explore a small handful of wineries, or several months if you can spare the time and want to experience the myriad sides to Baja hospitality.

Outdoor sports

 * - There are four polo teams in Baja that regularly play each other. The Todos Santos club is quite old, having been established at Rosalito Beach, but they moved to Valle de Guadalupe in 2007. Enjoy a glass of locally made wine while you go out on the pitch for some divot stomping, though you'll just have to stomp the dusty, sandy dirt... we haven't any grass, old man. So sorry! The polo club also has an upscale restaurant and is a popular venue for concerts and other large events.

Festivals

 * Vendimia - In Valle de Guadalupe, the annual harvest festival is more of a series of events than a single event. Most of the events are elite parties hosted at individual wineries. These parties include dinners, wine tastings, music, and dancing and showcase local cuisine and local wines. Two larger events draw thousands of people: 1) Muestra del Vino is a wine tasting event that opens the Vendimia and 2) Concurso de Paellas is a paella contest that marks the closing of Vendimia. Vendimia takes place throughout most of August.
 * Valle Food and Wine Festival - A weekend full of signature dishes from local chefs, local wines, music, sun and fun. Held in late October.

Vineyards and cellars
More than 180 wineries are in the Guadalupe Valley. The following is a partial list of wine producers offering public tours and tastings. Some are large producers, most are small. Some also have on-site bed and breakfast inns, gourmet restaurants, and have occasional outdoor concerts and other events. The best time to visit is August to early October: this is when the harvests come in and the full process of crushing the grapes to obtain the sweet juice can be observed. Note that some wineries are open to the public every day, some are not. Some may require reservations in advance. Most charge a tasting fee and/or a tour fee. Some offer special tastings by request only. Check winery web sites and call ahead with any questions or requests.



Buy
There are surprisingly few shops in this area, but they will likely come as merchants realize how fast the area has grown and how many wine enthusiasts and foodies have already discovered it. There are a large number of wine shops selling bottles of the local vintages...if you're looking for a potable souvenir. For now, you will find a wider range of shops in Ensenada.

Eat
Baja Med is a term conceived by Chef Miguel Ángel Guerrero that refers to a fusion of Mexican cuisine, such as chicharrón and cotija cheese, with those of Mediterranean, such as olives, sun-dried tomatoes, olive oil, and sometimes elements of Asian cuisine, such as lemongrass. Baja Med dishes showcase the fresh produce and seafood of Baja California.

Valle de Guadalupe has a great number of excellent places to eat, most are tucked away within the wineries on bumpy dirt roads. You can get high end farm-to-table food, fresh seafood from the coast, and affordable Mexican food of course. These places are scattered around the Valley, so grab a car or bike and get out for a great bite to eat.

Groceries, gourmet and take-out
Wine country is plentiful with fresh grown food, artisan cheeses, and other tasty morsels year around. This section is for those who want to "cook on the road," whether camping, renting a house, or perhaps just in the mood for a picnic.

Drink
Wine tasting is available year-round, and several of the wineries have built up-market restaurant and tasting establishments aimed specifically at tourists from the United States. A winery tour is usually included on cruise ships that stop at Ensenada. There are over 180 wineries in the Valle de Guadalupe.

There are also a number of independent tasting rooms where you can sample a variety of wines from different vintners.

Brewpubs
In addition to the following breweries, brewpubs are operated at some of the wineries, including Cieli, Mogoron, and La Casa de Doña Lupe.

Sleep
Valle de Guadalupe has an enormous number of places to stay. Many wineries offer rooms for a night or more and airbnb has hundreds of listings for the area: most are upscale properties with luxury amenities, catering to a sophisticated, mature traveler. There are little or no options for the budget traveler, who may find less expensive rooms in Ensenada. Ensenada can also be a good choice for travelers with wallets of any size who don't mind a short drive: Ensenada has corporate style chain hotels, urban hotels, and beach hotels.



Stay safe
This area is very safe for tourists, but nonetheless, normal precautions are wise, such as locking your car and safeguarding your possessions.

Do be aware of your limits regarding alcohol consumption. Local police do not tolerate drunk driving and sobriety checkpoints are always a possibility.

Go next

 * Ensenada
 * Tecate
 * Ezequiel Montes