Utsunomiya

Utsunomiya (宇都宮) is the capital of Tochigi prefecture, Japan.

Understand
Utsunomiya has more streets lined with horse chestnut trees (栃の木 tochi-no-ki), and more places and products labeled Marronnier (French for Aesculus hippocastanum) than any other city in Japan's Tochigi ("Buckeye") Prefecture.

Utsunomiya is also the hometown of jazz great Sadao Watanabe and bills itself as a Jazz Town that is also famous for its cocktail bars.

The small mining town of Oya, the source of the distinctive greenish-gray volcanic stone used to construct many of Utsunomiya's buildings, is a short bus ride away and makes a good half-day or day trip.

Tourist information site

 * Discover Utsunomiya is the city's official multilingual tourist website.

By plane
From Narita Airport, the fastest and most expensive way to reach Utsunomiya is to take the Narita Express train to Tokyo Station and transfer to the Tohoku Shinkansen Yamabiko, Nasuno or Tsubasa service (2 hr 15 min, ¥7800).

From Haneda Airport, take the Keikyu Line train to Shinagawa, then the Yamanote or Keihin-Tohoku line train to Tokyo Station. From there, take the Tohoku Shinkansen (about 1 hr 45 min, ¥5200). A cheaper trip is to continue up the Yamanote to Ueno station and change to the JR Utsunomiya commuter line (3 hours, ¥2290).



By train
Utsunomiya is a major train hub served by the Tohoku Shinkansen Line, JR Tohoku Main Line, Tobu Nikko Line and JR Utsunomiya Line.

Tohoku Shinkansen Yamabiko, Max Yamabiko, Nasuno and Tsubasa trains depart from Tokyo station about three times per hour, with more trains during the evening. The ride costs ¥4800 and lasts just 50-55 minutes.

Direct runs on the regular Tohoku Main Line depart from Ueno station 3-4 times per hour. The trip takes about 1 hour and 40 minutes at a cost of ¥1890.

There are also hourly departures on the Shonan-Shinjuku line from Shinjuku station, reaching Utsunomiya in roughly the same time it takes from Ueno, and at the same price.

JR Nikko Line trains, appropriately bound for Nikko, depart from Utsunomiya.

Tobu line trains run to Tobu-Utsunomiya station from Tochigi every 30 minutes or so. From Asakusa, you can reach Utsunomiya by Tobu rapid train, changing in Shin-Tochigi. This train typically takes longer (2 hours) and less convenient than its JR counterpart, but about ¥500 cheaper for one-way fare (¥1160).

With the exception of the Tobu line, all of these trains can be used at no charge with the Japan Rail Pass.

By bus
Kintetsu operates the Tochinoki overnight highway bus service from Osaka and Kyoto to Utsunomiya Station. It takes 10 hours from Osaka and 8½ hours from Kyoto and costs ¥11,400 and ¥10,700 one way, respectively. This service has been spotty with suspensions; it is usually cheaper and more reliable to take a train to Tokyo Station or Shinjuku station, then to ride a bus to your destination from there.

Mito, the capital of neighboring Ibaraki, has highway bus service connecting with Utsunomiya, with departures hourly in either direction.

Get around
Public transport in Utsunomiya consists of buses and one light rail line east towards Haga. For most tourist staying for one night or wishing to simply shop, most stores, hotels, and restaurants are within convenient walking distance from the east and west exits of Utsunomiya Station.

On foot
Much of Utsunomiya can easily be reached by foot from Utsunomiya Station. Some major shopping, hotels, grocery stores, and other shops can be walked to in five minutes or less. For other areas, such as Orion-Dori or the jazz clubs/restaurants, you can expect about 10 to 15 minutes.

The crime rate is low and incidents are rare. However, do take care at night. Always carry ID with you at all times, as police often perform "Gaijin Checks" (Foreigner Checks) for valid visiting or working visas.

By taxi
Taxis are readily available from the west side of Utsunomiya station, first floor. Take the west exit, and immediately bear right. Taxis can be found immediately to the right of the bus section. Fares start at about ¥1,000 and climb fast.

By bus
Bus services are also available primarily from the west exit (Utsunomiya JR Station). For assistance on finding your bus route, there is a help desk station directly next to the Shinkansen entrance (2nd Floor), as well as a computerized system just outside of the 2nd floor entrance. Fares start at about ¥200 per adult.

Routes specific to the east side of Utsunomiya (IE, Bell Mall, Utsunomiya University) are available from the east exit of Utsunomiya JR. Follow the walkway until you see the semi-famous “Gyoza-Statue,” approximately where boarding occurs.

A number of free or reduced bus services are available to retail stores such as Fukudaya or Joyful Honda. These bus services usually run by the hour, but are not typically useful to the average tourist

By bicycle
Relatively easy, if you know how to cycle, there's always a renting bicycle centre just nearby to the JR Utsunomiya Station. Once you exit from the station, walk towards Lala Square Shopping Mall. You will see a bicycle shop across from LaLa Square and the McDonald's next door.

Bicycle parking is restricted in some areas. While theft is unlikely, remember to lock your bike and take your valuables with you. Be careful of traffic, and observe traffic laws and signals especially at night.

By rail
The Utsunomiya Light Rail tram line opened in 2023, running from Utsunomiya JR Station East Exit across the Kinu River to the Honda Research and Development Centre.

See




Buy
In comparison to Tokyo, Utsunomiya is not much of a place to shop. It does, however, have some variety of stores to keep individuals busy for an afternoon. The vast majority of malls are easily located on or near main street (starting from Utsunomiya JR West Exit). You can walk to most worthwhile areas in 15 minutes, or take a five-minute bus ride.



Eat
Utsunomiya is most famous for its gyōza (餃子) dumplings, available sauteed, deep-fried, boiled, and/or steamed with all sorts of stuffings all around the city. You can find gyoza just about anywhere, but here are some key areas.


 * Utsunomiya Station Stores, level one. Look next to the grocery store for long queues.
 * Orion Dori, various. There are several gyoza specialty restaurants throughout the stretch.
 * Orion Dori, various. There are several gyoza specialty restaurants throughout the stretch.

In addition, there are plenty of other restaurants elsewhere.



For Starbucks fiends, there are Starbucks coffee shops in Utsunomiya Station (with Wi-Fi), and Bell Mall. There are also plenty of fast food chains, such as Mos Burger (inside Utsunomiya Station, first floor), and a McDonald's (outside the main entrance, right side). For those wishing to stay on a budget, the grocery stores in La La Square (B1) and Utsunomiya Station (1) are your best bet.

Drink
Utsunomiya bills itself as a jazz town and a cocktail area. The quality varies however, in both departments of jazz and cocktails. Cover charges as high as ¥4000 can be expected, with cocktails starting at ¥1000 per drink.

For regular bar experiences, see below.


 * The Lion’s Head (1800 – ?) (on Utsunomiya main street, several blocks from Utsunomiya Tobu Station and about 10-15 minutes walk from Utsunomiya JR, across from the Washington Hotel). Remodeled in July 2007, this is the primary hangout for gaijins in the area. Atmosphere is your typical English pub, be it without a large screen TV for soccer games. Beers start at about ¥600, Guinness, other hard to find brews, and wine are available. Fish and chips are worth ordering off of the menu, but most other food items are too small and unevenly priced. English spoken.
 * Nohkin’s (18:00 – 02:00 (S-Th), -05:00 (F, Sat). (Directly above The Lion’s Head on Utsunomiya Main Street, 2nd floor. See above). The bar itself is dark and the music quality varies (live or recorded), but the drink menu is one of the more aptly available. A large assortment of cocktails, wines, champagnes, and brews from local and international areas are available. Drinks start at about ¥500. Ask about their famous waiter who bares a strong resemblance to Ichiro of American Baseball fame.  Some English spoken.
 * Bird Land (On the same side of the road as The Lion's Head, cross the crossing immediately west of the Lion's Head, it's about 50 m away). This is the most well known night club in Utsunomiya. Expect to find Japanese, Brazilians and some native English speakers there on the weekends.  Plays mainly dance and hip-hop.  Serves Kirin, Guinness, a large array of spirits etc. Serves particularly good western food.  Mostly deserted during the week. Also check out the Izakaya Samurai which is below Bird Land.
 * Kento's (Just off Orion Street, turn left at McDonald's before you hit Tobu station). This is a chain bar you can find in number of cities, the slogan is "oldies but goodies". The design is of a 1960s Greaser bar.  It hosts live bands playing mostly 60s & 70s music.
 * Kento's (Just off Orion Street, turn left at McDonald's before you hit Tobu station). This is a chain bar you can find in number of cities, the slogan is "oldies but goodies". The design is of a 1960s Greaser bar.  It hosts live bands playing mostly 60s & 70s music.

Utsunomiya has excellent nightlife with many quirky bars, classic cocktail bars and jazz clubs which can be found around town.

Sleep
Hotels range from grand (wedding hotels) to business hotels (small rooms and beds).



Go next

 * Nikko, the grandiose burial site of the Tokugawa Shoguns
 * Mashiko, a town of pottery and steam trains
 * Nasu
 * Kanuma
 * Shimotsuke
 * Tochigi
 * Ashikaga
 * Moka
 * Takanezawa