Ushuaia

Straddling the Beagle Strait, Ushuaia  is the largest city in Argentine Tierra del Fuego island, with about 75,000 residents (2019). It is 3,260 km south of Buenos Aires. It lays claim to the title "the southernmost city in the world". Puerto Williams, across the channel in Chile, also claims this title, but has only about 3,000 residents.

Ushuaia has been a missionary base, penal colony and naval base for the Argentine navy. Ushuaia is now a major tourist town, complete with casinos and nice restaurants, and commonly used as a base for hiking, winter sports and cruises to Antarctica.

Understand
Ushuaia is the capital of the Argentinian province of Tierra del Fuego, itself the eastern half of Tierra del Fuego island (and archipelago) in the southern tip of South America. The city has been transformed from a sleepy village to a lively tourist center, so you will not feel quite like you are at the end of the world. The scenic landscape around the city, with good outdoor sports including one of the southernmost winter sport resorts in the world complete with a view to the sea, make Ushuaia a place worth visiting.

The area
Ushuaia is east-west elongated city crushed between the Andes foothills to the north (which do not run north-south at this latitude) and the Beagle Channel to the south. Its sole road connection is "Ruta 3" which traverses the city from west to east and later drifts north-east across the Andes and all the way to Buenos Aires.

Consequently, Ushuaia's tourist attractions are either to the west (End of the World Train & National Park), to the east (Fagnano Lake, Harberton ranch and lots of hiking trails), within the city (Presidio Museum, Martial Glacier or the Beagle boat tours).

The city borders one of the southernmost legs of the Andes and has several urban centers. The mall is about 2 km long and stretches from the freight port past the Avenida Alem (National Road 3). East of downtown there is the industrial area, and the western side is dominated by residential buildings and the airport. Most hotels and resorts, particularly at the upper end of the price scale are on the road to the Martial Glacier.



History
Prior to the late 19th century, the land that is now called Ushuaia was inhabited entirely by Yámana (or Yaghan) people and a handful of missionaries. Due to outbreaks of typhus, pertussis and measles, by 1911, the Yámana had effectively disappeared; as of 2017, there was allegedly one pure-blooded native-speaking Yámana left, a woman who lives in Chile.

In the late 19th century, the Argentine government established a penal colony in Ushuaia intended for repeat offenders, serious criminals and some political prisoners, following similar examples by the French and British. The prison population became forced colonists who spent most of their time chopping down the now-protected lenga trees, which they used to build the town. The prison was shut down in 1947, and is now the Museo Maritimo. The railway to the settlement has become the Tren del Fin del Mundo.

Today the town is growing fast as a result of increased tourism since the 2002 economic crash. The government has encouraged this growth by designating Tierra del Fuego a virtually tax-free zone to encourage people to settle; many of the inhabitants of today's Ushuaia come from Chaco, in the north of Argentina. The cost of living, however, is relatively high as all goods have to be transported long distances, usually by container ship.

Climate
Climate-wise, Ushuaia is warmer than many assume; it is no further south than Belfast is north, and temperatures rarely drop below -10&deg;C. However, it is still cooler and more unstable than on the drier northern half of the island. In the summer, there are hardly any clear days: On most days there are sun, clouds and short rain showers, with temperatures around +15°C. There is daylight from 05:00 to 22:00 The winters are somewhat clearer, with temperatures around -2°C, a lot of snow, and little daylight, the sun is only up from 09:45 to 17:15 The ski resorts have snow from May to early November. As in all of southern Argentina, strong winds add a significant wind chill factor.

If you plan to hike, you should have weatherproof clothing, and even if you are just visiting the city, you will need both a pullover and a jacket even in the summer months of January and February. In January, the city is full of domestic tourists (which means you should book your accommodation beforehand). There are fewer visitors from mid-February until the start of the ski season in June.

Tourist office
There are several tourist offices. Aside of the central one on the main street (which is closed, the nearest is in the port next to the 'end of the world' sign) there are smaller ones on the airport and the port.

Get in
You can get there by plane in three and a half hours in a non-stop flight from Buenos Aires, or you can go by car, but it is a long trip (about four days travelling on desert roads). You can also go on a cruise ship.

By plane
There is one major airport serving the city:



By bus
Buses from all destinations except Puerto Natales stop at Rio Gallegos. It can be cheaper to buy a ticket to Rio Gallegos and purchase an onward ticket from there. The ride from Rio Gallegos costs AR$1,300 and involves crossing into Chile and taking a ferry across the Magellan Strait. There are three daily departures and the journey is advertised as taking around 12 hours, but it is often much longer in practice.

By car
Argentine National Route 3 connects Buenos Aires to Ushuaia, ending at the Tierra del Fuego National Park. Tierra del Fuego is an island, and the route requires crossing into Chile and taking a ferry to cross the Magellan Strait. There are two ferries connecting Tierra del Fuego to the South American mainland: a short crossing at Punta Delgada at the northernmost point of the island and a longer crossing from Punta Arenas in Chile to Porvenir on the island's west coast.

By boat
A number of cruise ships stop at Ushuaia, either as an attraction or as the destination.



By bus
There are city buses within Ushuaia, but they reach few of the tourist attractions. They are good to get to Playa Larga, for example, or from one part of the centre to another, along the east/west axis. The bus lines are nowadays labelled with letters, though the former route numbers may still be visible at some bus stops. The bus fare is AR$6.80 as of 2017, and the system to pay is the SUBE card, the same as for other big cities in Argentina.

Tours/transport to the main tourist attractions can be booked through the Tourist Office (on San Martin) or through many of the hostels.

Regular minivans leave for the National Park (first van 08:00), Glaciar Martial, the trailhead of Laguna Esmeralda or other places from a parking lot at the corner of Maipu and Fadul. To catch one, turn up at the lot, pay for your return ticket and you will informed of the pickup times to catch the minivan back. The cost for a return ticket to the national park is AR$850 (Nov 2019), excluding the entry fee, Laguna Esmeralda AR$300, and Glacier Martial AR$150. In the case of Glacier Martial a return taxi for 2 passengers is cheaper than the minivan and more flexible as there are usually taxis waiting for passengers at the Glacier base that can take you back immediately rather than waiting for a van.

By taxi
Taxis are another option, costing, for example, AR$250 to get from the city centre to the airport and AR$130 to the Glaciar Martial. There are plenty of taxis and remises, the fares being somewhat higher than in Buenos Aires. Taxis use the meter and are generally a trustworthy option.

By car
There are also several car and bicycle rental companies. Be aware that in Ushuaia, all vehicles on hillside streets automatically have the right-of-way. In most places there are signs, but even if there isn't, this rule still applies. This is intended to prevent accidents due to ice and snow on the steep mountain roads.

See
There aren't really any architectural sights in Ushuaia. The city is modern, but the architecture is Scandinavian and positively different from other cities in southern Argentina.

Do


It’s a city that has charm in every season, in winter the weather is very cold, but it is the best season to practice skiing and other mountain sports, such as sledging by Siberian dogs and biking snowmobiles. The most important place to practice skiing is “Beaver Hill”, where you can enjoy this sport and also a typical meal or a rich chocolate to soothe the cold. In the city you can visit the museum of the jail where they used to take the most dangerous criminals.

In summer the temperature can reach 20 °C allowing us to enjoy the greenery. In summer you can hike, climb hills and visit the “Esmeralda” lagoon (in winter is difficult to reach because of the snow). Biking is difficult because the streets have many slopes. During the summer you can enjoy the landscape and get to places which are not accessible in winter due to the snow. There are many things to do. A highlight is a train tour called “The train where the world ends”; you can visit the national park “Tierra del Fuego”, where you can see “The Green Lagoon” and the “Black Lagoon”, which owe their color to the local flora. You can have a picnic on “Roca Lake” and watch a lot of rabbits. Another nice activity is to take a boat trip in The Beagle Channel, visiting The Birds Island and the “Lighthouse where the world ends”.

Summer
The area around Ushuaia is excellent for hiking and there are several marked paths. The most popular one leads up to the Glaciar Martial, a 1300-m-high snow covered peak with a small glacier and a spectacular view of the city and the surroundings. If you are going up the mountain you need sturdy and waterproof shoes - the path is steep and often slippery. You can pick up a map in the tourist office which is sufficient for shorter and popular hikes.

For serious hiking you should invest in the "Ushuaia Trekking Map," which can be purchased for around AR$230 at many stores downtown. You can head to the Tierra del Fuego National Park, 12 km west of Ushuaia, or hike the valleys around Estancia Haberton (where many paths aren't marked).



Winter
In the winter, the area turns into a large ski resort. In Ushuaia there are two pistes on Glacial Martial, both with sea view.



Buy
The main shopping district of Ushuaia is near the waterfront, mostly on San Martín. There is a smaller center west of the city, north of the airport, where the locals mainly shop.

Prices in Ushuaia are higher than central Argentina, but there is no sales tax (IVA). Furthermore, due to low tariffs on imports in Tierra del Fuego, imported goods (electronics) are a comparative bargain. There is a duty free store on San Martín that sells perfume, alcohol and cigarettes, but keep an eye on the prices as some items may be cheaper elsewhere.

While Antarctic travelers should arrive with proper gear already in their possession, quality winter gear including boots, coats, and other necessities — as well as souvenirs — can be purchased from a variety of shops.

There are also souvenir shops, such as La abuela Oma, La ultima Vita and Fin del Mundo.

The Paseo del Fuego Shopping Center is a largish modern shopping mall featuring a cineplex showing first-run movies in English and Spanish, providing an additional option for rainy-day activities.

Eat
Highlight are lamb, crabs and other seafood dishes. Most Ushuaia restaurants are centrally-located, clustered around San Martín and Maipú. The western part of the city offers affordable rotiserías (pre-made/fast food) with standard Argentine dishes such as pizza and empanadas.

Seafood and meat dishes are very typical, as fruit and vegetables have to be transported from thousands of kilometers away and, as such, are rarely tasty and rather expensive. Be sure to try the centolla (king crab) for price around AR$350.

Regarding restaurants: Las cotorras, Mostacho, Chichilo, Tante Sara, all located in the city center, and many others in the outskirts of the city. As to the chocolate houses: La Laguna Negra and El Turista, where you can enjoy a rich hot chocolate with various cakes of different flavors.

Drink
There is not much of a nightlife in Ushuaia; most bars and pubs close early.



Sleep
Hotels in Ushuaia are often fully booked, especially during peak tourist season, so it is advisable to arrive in Ushuaia with reservations. On the other hand, hostels (albergues) are numerous, so even in midsummer you should have no problem finding a bed.

Work


Industry and tourism were until the 1990s major draws for workforce from elsewhere. As some tax privileges were removed, this had a negative effect on the employment market. Today it isn't as easy to get a job in Ushuaia as it once was, but there are still job openings in the tourism and restaurant sectors, especially if you can speak many languages.

Stay safe
Usuaia and the region in general isn't entirely free of crime, but significantly safer than most of Argentina. There aren't any slums, and businesses seldom have bars installed in the front of their windows. Potential criminals from elsewhere would have a hard time getting out of Tierra del Fuego undetected, as the only ways out would be via the airport or Chilean territory.

Stay healthy
There are two hospitals in the city:

There are no particular health risks in Ushuaia; the biggest threat would be catching a cold due to the varying weather conditions. But also note that especially in the summer and when trekking in the mountains, you should protect yourself from sunburn, as the ozone layer is relatively thin in this part of the world.

Cope

 * The local newspaper is Diario del Fin del Mundo (literally the Newspaper of the End of the World); however, it does not feature cultural events very widely.
 * Banks and exchange booths can be found along San Martín.

Connect

 * The calling code for Ushuaia is 02901 and the postal code is V9410. Broadband Internet and a cell phone network are available.
 * Internet cafés can be found on San Martín. Rates are higher than elsewhere in Argentina, $5/hour.
 * Should you want a special "end of the world" stamp on your postcards, head to the small post office in Bahía Ensenada in the national park.

Go next

 * Tierra del Fuego National Park - In Lapataia, 12 km west of Ushuaia. This national park provides some nice day hikes on well-marked trails in a forest and bog landscape. Longer treks are also possible, such as Paso de la Oveja (2 days) or the Sierra Valdivieso Circuit (4 days). These treks cross part of the national park but start and end elsewhere. The Compania de Guias de la Patagonia and Club Andino Ushuaia can help with organization and renting gear. The fee for each day spent in the park is AR$170, but there is no extra charge for camping there. Guided treks start from $200. You can get there by rental car, taxi, bus (AR$300 round trip) or the Tren del Fin del Mundo (AR$540).
 * Isla Navarino - Zodiac boat to Puerto Williams, one way $1,000. It's a 15-minute boat ride to Puerto Navarino and then the minibus takes you to Puerto Williams.
 * Estancia Haberton - Open only in the summer months, Estancia Harberton is a worthwhile trip for those interested in the Bridges family and their role in the local history. It's the oldest farm on the island and quite a popular place to visit. It's about 60 km east of Ushuaia on the Beagle Channel and there is no public transport, but some tour companies arrange tours. Going there by rental car is also possible, and in that case you can also continue further along the coastal road to the farm Estancia Moat.
 * Isla de los Estados is the only ocean island of Argentina. It's an uninhabited and protected natural area with fiords and mountains. However people are not allowed to land there, but just to look at it from a boat.
 * Punta Arenas - Daily buses depart at 05:00 from the bus station (there is one now), $180-210
 * Antarctica - Ushuaia is one of the largest, if not the largest port and airport for cruises and flights to Antarctica. There are three ways of getting in: normal (luxury) cruises, cruise expeditions and overflights. Most cruises go to South Georgia Island, South Orkney Islands, South Shetland Islands or the Antarctic Peninsula. The season is from November to March.