Urumqi

Urumqi (Pronounced: ÜH-RÜM-chee) (Chinese: 乌鲁木齐 Wūlǔmùqí; Uyghur: ئۈرۈمچی) is the capital of the Xinjiang Uighur Autonomous Region, administered by the People's Republic of China. The city has a population of around 2.5 million and is in the Tian Shan mountains.

Understand
The name Ürümqi comes from Mongolian, meaning "great", a short form of the full Mongolian name meaning "great pasture", as the Mongols were the last major power to control the area prior to the Qing conquest. Following the Qing conquest, the city was named "Dihua" (迪化 lit. "to enlighten and civilize") by Emperor Qianlong, a name which stuck even through the Republic of China era. Following the communist revolution, the new People's Republic of China government changed the name back to Ürümqi in 1954, as "Dihua" was deemed too condescending to the ethnic minorities in the region.

Urumqi is famous for its claim that it is the most inland major city in the world, that being the farthest from any ocean; 2,300 km or further.

There are two major ethnic groups, a quarter million of the original Uyghur inhabitants of the area and 1.5 million Han (ethnic Chinese); the city has a higher proportion of Han than elsewhere in the region. Other ethnic groups in Urumqi include Kazakhs, Kyrgyz, Mongols and Hui Muslims.

Despite what some of the guidebooks say, Urumqi has a lot to offer and can provide a great introduction to Xinjiang.

Talk
Regardless of ethnicity, most people in Urumqi can speak some level of Mandarin. However, in some parts of the city Uyghur, a Turkic language, is dominant. Few people speak English, even in some of the large hotels. When taking a taxi, it is a good idea to have a piece of paper with the name of your destination written in Chinese. Most government signs are bilingual in Uyghur and Chinese, as are signs and menus in Uyghur-owned shops and restaurants.

By train
All long-distance trains use the Main Railway Station, 20 km northwest of the city. This includes the fast trains to Lanzhou (12 hours), Xian (plus 3 hours), Beijing (plus 9 hours) and Wuhan (plus 8 hours), and international trains to Kazakhstan via Khorgos (24 hrs) or Dostyk (30 hrs).



By bus
The Northern Long-Distance Bus Station is at Heilongjiang Road. Almaty in Kazakhstan (via Khorgos) takes about 24 hours and costs ¥440. Tickets can be bought at Bianjiang Hotel, room 2121 (边疆宾馆2121号房间) or at the international bus station at Nianzigou (碾子沟国际客运站). The business of clearing immigration & customs at Khorgos makes the travel time variable. To Khorgos itself is 14 hours; other destinations are Burqin (13 hr), Tacheng (12 hr), Yining (or "Yili") (13 hr). Lanzhou is a weary 40 hours, take the train.

The Southern Long-Distance Bus Station (南郊客运站) is in the southern part of city, across from Shuishang Amusement Park (水上乐园). Destinations include Turpan (3 hours), Korla (10 hours), Kuche (17 hours), Hotan (24 hours), and Kashgar (24 hours).

By car
China Highway 312 is a motorway crossing Xinjiang from Gansu to the border with Kazakhstan. Most destinations within Xinjiang can be accessed via private car. Drivers tend to congregate near the bus stations and will often approach passengers shouting their destination. Drivers usually try to fill the car with four passengers, but you can also rent the whole car (包车; bāochē). In almost every case, a car will save hours of travel time over a bus.

On foot
The city center is big, and separated into different 'centers'. You can walk, but distances are large, roads are wide, and ongoing building work will block your path. Furthermore, in summer it gets very hot and in winter it can drop to -35°C (-31°F) at night.

By metro
The northern section (from the international airport to Balou) of the first line of the Urumqi Metro has just been opened. You must show ID to ride. All signs and announcements are trilingual in Chinese, Uyghur and English.

By taxi
Metered taxi fares start at ¥10 for the first 3 km. There are also black taxis (illegal), driven nowadays by anyone, male or female. Fares for these are negotiable and they are very handy during rush hour when metered taxis are tough to come by. A ride within the city should not exceed ¥20, but the airport and main railway station will be more.

By bus
Bus number 52 goes from the round about near the airport to the museum. Other useful routes running generally north–south are 101, 61 and 63.

The very visible BRT (Bus Rapid Transit) Buses are a quick, efficient and very crowded way from getting from one end of the city center to another. BRT1 and 2 are very useful. BRT1 runs straight down Youhau Lu to the train station. BRT 3 connects the grand bazar, People's Theater and Square and ultimately terminates with a connection to BRT1 at its northern end. Just put ¥1 in the box on the way onto the platforms and then squeeze onto a bus. These are run along a segregated busway - something of a cross between a bus and a tram.

Nan Shan (南山)
Picturesque mountains south of Urumqi. In summer the valleys are populated with Kazakh yurts, which accept travellers for ¥50-100 per night including food. Excellent for hiking and horseback riding. Cheap buses (¥8-25) leave for the area throughout the day from the bus station south of People's Park (Renmin Gongyuan). Particularly recommended is Juhua Tai (菊花台, chrysanthemum terrace), with plenty of food and sleeping options along with mountain pastures filled with alpine flowers. In the far south of this village is a fast disappearing glacier, the first in China to be thoroughly researched. The area is in the higher peaks in the Nan Shan range (over 4200 m/14,000 ft) and boasts spectacular views along with few tourists. The glacier can be reached after first taking the Nan Shan bus to Hou Xia (后峡, ¥12.6), and then finding a driver in the town to take you to the glacier (¥150-200 one way, about an hour). Several kilometers from the glacier are Kazakh families that rent their yurts to tourists for ¥20. Polo (fried rice), bread, kebabs and tea are also available for about ¥15 or so. Coming back, you should be able to hitch a ride for free with trucks returning to town from a nearby mine.
 * South of Urumqi is the Heart of Asia Monument - a monument supposedly marking the center of the Eurasian landmass, underscoring just how far from the ocean you really are.

Buy
The Grand Bazaar (aka Erdaoqiao) is a great place not only for regional specialty items, but also has many goods from nearby countries such as Russia and Mongolia. It is a popular tourist destination although somewhat of a tourist trap these days. However, the surrounding area is the heart of the Uyghur community and makes visiting worthwhile.


 * Imported delicacies can be found at the Youhao supermarket in the basement of the Tianshan Shopping Center (天山百货), across from the People's Square.
 * A number of stores selling outdoor gear, camping supplies (户外用品) etc. can be found on Renmin Lu, east of Nanmen.
 * Hualin (华凌市场) is a huge trade complex selling almost anything you can think of. Shangmao Cheng (商贸城) is a similar huge bazaar in the south of the city.

Beware of pickpockets and watch your possessions carefully.

Eat
Food is one of the things that Xinjiang is famous for. Fresh naan, spicy kebabs, steaming pilaf, or famous hand stretched noodles &mdash; there are a lot of choices, and lots of variety.



Budget


Local restaurants are available throughout the city, although most Uyghur restaurants are concentrated in Erdaoqiao, around the Grand Bazaar - there are plenty of restaurants on the street behind the mosque offering a nice alternative to standard Chinese cuisine. A standard price for a plate of hand-stretched noodles with vegetable meat topping (laghman/bànmiàn) is about ¥9--if you are still hungry, you can request more noodles (jiāmiàn). Melon slices also make an excellent snack, at about ¥1 a slice from a street vendor. Among other common Uyghur foods are dumplings of mutton and onions (samsa), Uyghur fried rice (polo), dumpling soup (chuchura), meat pies (Gush Nan) and Opke Hessip (lungs and stuffed intestines) for the brave. Local specialty drinks include Kawas (carbonated drink flavored with honey) and Dogh (a mixture of crushed ice, yoghurt and honey available in summer). The best known Hui dish is big plate chicken (dàpánjī), a spicy mixture of chicken and potatoes.



Hui and Uyghur food can be very spicy, and it is a good idea unless you like very spicy food to tell them "búyào là de", or for Uyghurs "kizil mooch salmang!".

One warning before you go out and get local food though. Not everyone can stay healthy eating Uyghur and Hui food. Often it is cooked with a large amount of oil. Sanitary conditions are also perhaps not what you would have expected. If you have a weak stomach, or gall bladder problems it might be a good idea to try some of the other options. Or just stick to naan and kebab.

Take care if you are considering going to one of the restaurants next to the Grand Market. They will quite happily give you a 'tourist menu' where every dish is priced at over ¥1,000. You can get similar and just as nice food at other restaurants in the nearby streets for a fraction of that price.

Mid-range
In town there are several mid-range options available for Western food.



Han Chinese dishes places, available all around town also fall into the mid-range category.

A good local Chinese chain is Shunming (顺明), serving Uyghur and Chinese food for a reasonable price. They are open 24 hours a day and have several locations around town including at the People's Square (人民广场) and the People's Theater (人民电影院)



Another option is fast food, which has become increasingly popular in the last few years. KFC restaurants (肯德基) have sprung up all around town and are at the Grand Bazaar, People's Square, Hongshan, and the Children's Park among other locations. There are also two Pizza Huts (必胜客, at Zhongshan Rd. (中山路) and Youhao Shopping Mall (友好商场)), and several smaller Chinese fast food chains--specifically Dicos (德克士) & Fast Food Burgers (百富烤霸, also known as Roast King).

Splurge
The buffet at the China Southern Airlines Hotel is an ideal place to splurge. The head Chef is Austrian, and the food is very authentic Western fare, with some local dishes as well. Dinner costs ¥88 plus 15%, and includes tea, coffee, and a glass of red wine. The buffet at the Urumqi Sheraton ought to be rather good. ¥130.



Sleep


Due to the city special regulations, most of the hotels, especially the cheap ones, don't accept foreigners. Walk-in can be considerably difficult and disappointing. It is strongly advised to research a foreigner-accepting hotel before arriving in the city.

Mid-range
There are numerous hotels in the mid-range bracket, but they are not always easy to find as they often do not have signage at street level. Look high on the buildings where there may be a hotel sign, then find the entrance at street level. You should easily be able to find a comfortable room with en-suite bathroom and air conditioning for under ¥300.



Stay safe
In general Xinjiang is a safe place. However, in the bigger bazaars and on public transportation pickpockets do operate so do not flaunt valuables. Ethnic tension exists between Uyghur people and the Han Chinese. This has resulted in a large police and military presence in the city, because protests and other violence break out sporadically. In the aftermath of the 2009 riots, communications were severely restricted with internet access and all international calls in and out of the region blocked by the government temporarily. Phone calls are able to be placed from the bianjiang binguan (边疆宾馆 mentioned above) for ¥5/min and possibly also from post offices 邮电局 for ¥2-3/min. Keep these restrictions in mind before traveling. Also be prepared to be stopped by security personnel suspicious of foreigners.

Respect
In most Islamic cultures, naan (bread) is very important. It is not a good idea to throw it away. If you drop it, pick it up and carry it with you. Do not step on naan: it is important to treat it with some respect. Also, if you decide to eat naan while walking, break off a piece, and eat that. Do not bite into the whole loaf.

Consulates
Kazakhstan has the only visa office in Urumqi. However, most holders of western passports don't need a visa for short tourist stays to Kazakhstan, or to Kyrgyzstan (their office has closed). To enter the other "stans" you may be able to get a visa in Beijing, Almaty or Bishkek, but processing times are long and they'll probably require you to apply from your country of residence.


 * 🇰🇿 Kazakhstan

Go next

 * Tianshan Tianchi National Park (天池) - scenic with prismatic splendor. Tickets are approximately ¥140. Buses leave from the north end of People's Park every morning at 09:00. It will give you a wonderful experience of Chinese tourism with your time micro-managed by the tour guides. The bus costs ¥130 with another ¥140 for entrance to the park. This gives you lunch of a sort and a visit to a yurt village as well as to Heavenly Lake.
 * Shihezi - desert city which rarely sees tourists
 * Urumqi is the eastern terminus of the itinerary Moscow to Urumqi, a more southern alternative to the Trans-Siberian Railway. The trip to Moscow can take as little as 5 days.