Ulcinj

Ulcinj (Cyrillic: Улцињ, Albanian: Ulqin or Ulqini) is the most southern coastal town of Montenegro. In 2011, it had a population of 10,700.

Understand
Ulcinj is the southern most major town along the Montenegrin coast before reaching the border with Albania. The significant majority of the population is ethnic Albanian. Due to the town's nice location on the coast it is a major tourist destination of much of the Albanian population of Kosovo. Millennials usually speak English, older generations speak Italian, German or Russian.

Get in

 * 8 buses per day to Podgorica, 2 hours, €6. Regular buses to Budva and Kotor, €7-9.
 * To Bar you can either take a normal bus or catch a 'combi' minibus (about half an hour, hourly).
 * From Kosovo during the tourist season there are frequent buses leaving from the major cities. The price should be around €15. These can rarely be booked advance online, but a stroll round a major city centre will immediately show what is on offer (e.g. try the Bill Clinton Boulevard in Pristina. Buses leave from both Pristina and Ulcinj (at 19:00 each day, 11 hours), making about 4 rest stops on the way (Bar – Podgorica – Pec (Kosovo)).
 * From Albania there are 'combi' minibuses that come from Durres in Albania to Ulcinj, although they most likely are not official bus operations, so you'll have to do some asking around.
 * There are also daily departures to Shkodra, Albania (06:00 and 12:30). These are, in theory, well connected with Albanian 'furgons' from Tirana and Durres. It takes 1 hour to Shkoder by "private" cab. If you are unable to find a bus or furgon you may try your luck in the area around the bus station. People may approach you (or you can just ask people) offering to take you to nearby Albanian towns and cities. During off-peak periods you may find someone willing to take you to Shkodra and bring you back the same day for around €20 to €30.
 * There is only one bus daily from Shkoder, Albania at 09:00 in front of Hotel Rozafa. It costs €7 per person plus €1 per luggage placed in the boot (May 2024). Tourist information suggested a taxi for €45. (Summer 2022)
 * Also direct buses (three times per week) to Split, Croatia via Dubrovnik.
 * Buses to Novi Pazar, Serbia
 * Sunday evening buses to Skopje, North Macedonia (via Shkodra (Albania) – Ohrid – Tetovo)
 * Sunday evening buses to Skopje, North Macedonia (via Shkodra (Albania) – Ohrid – Tetovo)

Get around
Ulcinj is a small city, you will have no problem getting around by foot, but keep in mind that some parts are very hilly. The hilly roads can become quite slippery when wet and many of the smaller streets have no sidewalks. If you're walking on such a street, keep to the dry areas and step aside when you hear an approaching vehicle to let them pass. Many people drive fast even with pedestrians on the road.

There are many stairs that lead down the hills that can be used to avoid long winding roads, but you'll have to look for the entrances, or use Google Maps Satellite imagery to see where the stairs are; they're most marked and they often look like they lead into someone's home.

Do
Ulcinj is a splendid central location for exploring Montenegro's South Coast region (from Bar to Skadar Lake to Ada Bojana) and parts of Albania. The Ulcinj South Coast region boasts some of the most interesting adventure, historical and eco tours, and vacation beach stays in all of the Adriatic.
 * Ušće (begins just on opposite side of Ada Bojana island and stretch in one direction to Velika plaža and in other direction to the Bojana River coast). Area is very similar to Ada Bojana, with two main differences. There is no nudist beach and place is filled with campers and young people looking for rest during the day and party in the night.
 * Go for a walk after sunset when the main street fills with people promenading and taking some fresh air.
 * For the more adventuresome you can take the 'combi' towards the Albanian border (but not crossing it) getting off on the first road heading towards Lake Skadar near the town of Brajše. There is a small bus from Brajše that runs along this small road towards the mountains which if it's running you can take for €0.50, otherwise you'll have to walk or hitchhike. Once you get to the peak of the mountain range you'll be standing almost exactly on the Albanian and Montenegrin border. You'll be able to look out over one of the most magnificent lakes in Europe as well as get a good view of the Adriatic coast, Albania and Montenegro. Continue hitchhiking up the lake, you'll get to see some of the most rural untouched villages in the Balkans. The southern half of the lake shore is populated by ethnic Albanians while the northern half all the way up to the town of Virpazar is populated by Montenegrins. There is very little travel between the two communities so there are almost no buses that run the course of the highway meaning you'll either have to walk or hitchhike. The people driving the road though few and far between seem more than willing to take hitchhikers. If you camp (which is a good idea) there are some camp sites about halfway between Virpazar and Arbnez.
 * A former salt factory just east of the city is now a Flamingo Reservation, entrance is free.
 * For the more adventuresome you can take the 'combi' towards the Albanian border (but not crossing it) getting off on the first road heading towards Lake Skadar near the town of Brajše. There is a small bus from Brajše that runs along this small road towards the mountains which if it's running you can take for €0.50, otherwise you'll have to walk or hitchhike. Once you get to the peak of the mountain range you'll be standing almost exactly on the Albanian and Montenegrin border. You'll be able to look out over one of the most magnificent lakes in Europe as well as get a good view of the Adriatic coast, Albania and Montenegro. Continue hitchhiking up the lake, you'll get to see some of the most rural untouched villages in the Balkans. The southern half of the lake shore is populated by ethnic Albanians while the northern half all the way up to the town of Virpazar is populated by Montenegrins. There is very little travel between the two communities so there are almost no buses that run the course of the highway meaning you'll either have to walk or hitchhike. The people driving the road though few and far between seem more than willing to take hitchhikers. If you camp (which is a good idea) there are some camp sites about halfway between Virpazar and Arbnez.
 * A former salt factory just east of the city is now a Flamingo Reservation, entrance is free.

Eat


A few notes: fish restaurants calculate the price per 1 kg of raw fish. Example: one raw fish is about 500-600 grams, but when cleaned and cooked, it's around 200 grams. You get charged for 500-600 grams. If you see "scallop" on the menu anywhere, it's most likely not seafood but meat (veal). The great majority of restaurants serve halal food, and thus pork can be rarely found. Like in almost all Balkan towns you can find very good burek and ćevapi. Ulcinj's Albanians are one of the best and most skilled sweet food makers and bakers in former Yugoslavian area.

Budget

 * Near the beach stalls sell kebab and hamburgers.

Mid-range
Restaurants near the beach and long the main road falls into this category with prices of main meals of €3-7.

Splurge

 * There are lots of new restaurants in Stari grad (old town) that serve a wide range of food. Many of the restaurants have fantastic views of the ocean right from your table. Prices €7-30.

Drink
Best bars are in area on the Mala plaža beach in the town, just beneath Old Town.

Sleep
Accommodation is plentiful in Ulcinj, ranging from resort hotels to private accommodations. The resort hotels in Ulcinj are each in the process of renovation and reconstruction, as most have been privatized from former government agencies. Lodging costs range from full-service rooms at €50 per person (or more in Jul and Aug) down to the many unlicensed/unregulated private accommodations costing in the range of €10-25.

Go next

 * Shkodra, Albania — the first city after the border with Albania, also it is the biggest town in Northern Albania. The Rozafa Castle is a major tourist attraction here.
 * Bar N 26 km — the biggest Montenegrin sea port.