Ubud

Ubud, a town in central Bali of around 75,000 people (2020), is far removed from the nightlife bikini scene in Kuta, and is regarded as the cultural centre of Bali. It is famous as an arts and crafts hub, and much of the town and nearby villages seems to consist of artists' workshops and galleries. There are some remarkable architectural and other sights to be found, and a general feeling of well being to be enjoyed, all thanks to the spirit, surroundings, and climate of the place.

Understand
While Ubud seems to outsiders like one small town, it is in fact fourteen villages, each run by its own banjar (village committee). Ubud has grown rapidly, and some central parts are creaking under the strain of coping with the number of visitors. That said, most development is sympathetic to the zeitgeist, if not designed specifically in the local style. Growth continues apace, but there are still terraced rice fields along the rivers, and away from the town centre, regular, quiet village life carries on relatively undisturbed.

History
In many ways, the history of the Ubud area (not so much the modern day town) is the very history of Bali itself.

Ubud has a known history back to the eighth century, when the Javanese Buddhist priest Rsi Marhandya came to Bali from Java, and meditated at the confluence of the two Wos rivers at Campuan, just west of the modern day town centre. A shrine was established and later expanded by Nirartha, the Javanese priest who is regarded as the founder of Bali's religious practices and rituals as we know them today. At this time the area was a centre of natural medicine and healing, and that is how the name Ubud originated: Ubad is ancient Balinese for medicine.

Further temples and monasteries were established over the next 400 years or so. The temple complex at Gunung Kawi, and the cave temples at Goa Gajah (just east and northeast of Ubud), are architectural remains from this period. Many of the dances, drama and rituals still practised in Ubud today, originated at this time. King Airlangga ruled all of Java and Bali in this era, and his seat of government was located in what is now the village of Batuan, just southeast of Ubud.

The Javanese Majapahit kingdom conquered Bali in 1343, and the key final victory was against the Pejeng Dynasty centred at Bedulu, just to the east of Ubud. A great flowering of Balinese culture followed, and the ancestry of Ubud's current day aristocratic families can be traced back to this period. In the sixteenth Century, there was a total transplantation of the Majapahit Kingdom to Bali as the Islamisation of Java forced them eastwards. Power flip-flopped between various dynasties and feudal lords, but the Ubud area remained a very important cog in the various regencies which ruled the island.

In 1900, Ubud became a Dutch protectorate at its own request, and the colonialists interfered little, allowing the traditional arts and culture of the area to remain relatively unchanged. The modern era of Ubud perhaps began in the 1930s, when foreign artists were encouraged by the royal family to take up presence in the town. From their Ubud base, the likes of Walter Spies and Rudolph Bonnet were instrumental in promoting an understanding of Balinese art and culture worldwide. From the 1960s onwards, travellers started to arrive in earnest, mostly intrepid types as the infrastructure was still very limited indeed. Since then, Ubud has developed rapidly into a high-profile, top-class international destination, whilst still maintaining its integrity as the centre of Balinese art and culture.

Orientation
Orienting yourself in Ubud is fairly straightforward. The town sprawls for several kilometres in all directions, with all of the small villages within a five km radius of the central market being loosely referred to as "Ubud". If you choose a reasonably central place to stay, it is easy enough to get around on foot.

Central Ubud has three main streets: Jl Raya Ubud, Jl Monkey Forest and Jl Hanoman. At the intersection of Jl Raya and Jl Monkey Forest are Ubud Market, Ubud Palace, and the main bemo stop &mdash; unsurprisingly, there's also a near-permanent traffic jam here.

Jl Monkey Forest, which runs south through town to the Monkey Forest, is a built-up area, and home to a wide array of accommodation, art galleries, and cafes, as well a number of local services such as schools, a sports field, pharmacies, and travel agents. Jl Hanoman, which runs parallel to Jl Monkey Forest just to the east, is a bit quieter and makes for more pleasant walking.

To the immediate west and northwest are the villages of Campuan (Tjampuhan, Campuhan) and Kedewatan, home to some of the most upmarket hotels in the whole of Asia, with views over valleys sculpted by the Ayung and Wos rivers.

Directly to the south, past the Monkey Forest and still within a twenty minute walk of the central market, is Padang Tegal which then runs into the southern villages of Nyuh Kuning and Pengosekan, about three km from central Ubud. Directly to the east is the village of Peliatan, and then Teges and Bedulu, home of the ninth century Goa Gajah (Elephant Cave).

Climate
Due to its elevation at about 200 m above sea level, Ubud enjoys cooler temperatures than the coast, and it is sometimes necessary to bring a pullover for the evening. The midday sun can still be scorching though and the humidity often relentless; a murderous combination for an outing of 'temple tramping' which, in hilly Ubud, usually requires climbing up and down staircases. (Head out early to beat the heat and the crowds.) If there is a time to avoid, it would be the depths of the wet season in January and February — when it rains in Ubud, it really rains.

By bemo
There are regular public bemos from Denpasar's Batubulan terminal to Ubud which cost Rp50,000 and take about an hour. Most bemos run in the early morning, and in the later of the day it is getting difficult to find a bemo leaving and drivers try to pursue tourist to hire entire vehicle for Rp200,000-300,000, and you will not find any after 16:00. In the opposite direction, bemos depart every morning from the central market (northern entrance) in Ubud.

By taxi or car
If you want to take a taxi to Ubud from South Bali, it is best to charter the vehicle for a return trip, otherwise, you'll be hit with a 30% fee for going out-of-town. Metered fares, one-way and not including surcharge, are around Rp150,000 from Denpasar and Rp200,000 from Kuta. You can also rent a car in Kuta for a day in some local rental company around US$15-25, will be also useful to explore the extended vicinity.

By bus
Perama offers transfers to Ubud from Sanur, Lovina, Kuta, Bedugul, Candidasa, and Padang Bai, some daily, some on-demand. When coming from Ngurah Rai International Airport you need to take a taxi to Perama's Kuta branch first, when going to the airport direct transfers exist. These are convenient and inexpensive; e.g. four times per day to the airport for Rp50,000. Rather less conveniently, the Perama terminal is not located in the centre of Ubud, but about two km south in Padang Tegal, on Jl Hanoman just south of the intersection with Jl Monkey Forest. From Kuta to Ubud cost Rp60,000.

You can go to the "official Tourist Information" (just in the middle of town, on the big crossroad, opposite the market at Monkey Forest Road/Jalan Raya Road) and buy your ticket there (official outlet, same price) and Perama will pick you up there, to transfer to the Perama Bus Hub out of Town.

By public bus
Trans Metro Dewata (Rp 4,400, May 2024): the corridor 04 serves the route Terminal Ubung in Denpasar to Monkey Forest Central Parking with numerous bus stops. About an hour, every 7-10 min. Does not accept cash, either use bank transport card, either qris qrcode payment.

From Bedugul
From Bedugul / Candikuning, multiple options starting with cheaper (as of May 2024):
 * Take bemo from main road (next to lake) to Terminal Ubung in Denpasar (about Rp 40,000, duration ~1 hr 15 min), bus K3B to RS Dharma Yadnya Selatan (Rp 4,400, ~20 min), last bus K4B to Ubud (if centre, Pura Dalem Puri Pelatian stop; Rp 4,400, ~50 min). While cheaper (less than Rp 50,000), it's lot slower (3-4 hours) depending on traffic in Denpasar and Ubud.
 * Take bemo to Sembung (likely Rp 40,000 too as it seems the minimum price) and car-hailing app motorbike ride after (bike ~Rp 50,000, car rp 100,000-130,000). It is not known if bemo between Sembung and Ubud and likely not cheaper.
 * Full route by car-hailing app: bike ~Rp 110,00-130,000, car Rp 260,000-320,000
 * Perama tour bus: Rp 150,000, duration ~1 hr 30 min, daily 14:00, from indomaret, not perama bus shop.
 * Private car: ~Rp 300,000

Get around
Central Ubud can be covered on foot, but you will need some form of transport to explore the extended vicinity.

Central Ubud is overrun with tourists and touts, and traffic is terrible—cars are frequently stuck in traffic, pedestrians have to dodge motorcycles, and everyone has to deal with the noise and smell from so many vehicles in a small area. The nearby villages are much quieter. The sidewalks are often blocked by motorbikes, or a collapsed section necessitates a step off the sidewalk potentially placing you in the path of traffic. That traffic could be a tricycle or a truck, so keep your wits about you.

By bemo
Bemos ply the main routes in and around Ubud, and the main stop and gathering point is Ubud market at the junction of Jl Monkey Forest and Jl Raya Ubud. Most bemos stop running in the late afternoon, and are always more frequent in the morning.

By taxi
No metered taxis operate in Ubud, and any you see will be dropping off passengers from further afield.

You may however encounter many locals offering a taxi, who sometimes are very persistent. These are not actual taxis, but "local cars" (see below).

If you do not need a taxi, it's best to avoid eye contact with those offering a ride, as they may follow you with offers of tours of the area, etc. If you are continually being harassed, a polite "no thank you" (or "tidak terima kasih", the Indonesian equivalent) may work.

By local car
Most local transport comes in the form of SUVs or minivans that can be hired with a driver for specific trips. Look for the circular yellow "E" logo on the windshield certifying them as Ubud Transport Association members. You can (and should) haggle a bit over the price, and pay less than for the equivalent journey in a metered taxi. A short trip should be less than Rp20,000, and drivers will be glad to wait for you for a return fare.

Also, there are guys on motorbikes who will also offer bike rides (ojek) and are about half the price of those in a car.

By hotel car
Many hotels are out of town, and are happy to offer regular, complimentary drop-off and pick-up services to central Ubud. Expect to pay higher than taxi prices if you are intending to go further afield.

By motorbike
As elsewhere in Bali, motorbike rental is widely available, and you will not be short of options. Expect to pay between Rp40,000 and 80,000 per day for a late model motorbike in good condition. Look for rental agencies on all the main streets, or ask your hotel to organise for you. Navigation can be confusing, as signage is limited and all the roads look pretty much the same at first, but take it easy and stop to ask for directions if (when) you get lost.

By bicycle
You can rent bicycles for about Rp20,000-30,000 per day. There is a large selection available at the corner of the football field on Jl Monkey Forest. Beware though: Ubud is very hilly, so cycling can be hard, sweaty work. Traffic on the main roads is heavy and drivers rarely pay heed to cyclists.

By ride hailing app
There are lots of signs in Ubud saying taxi apps (like Grab, Blue Bird, and Gojek) are prohibited. You may or may not have success calling one anyway if you try.

See
Ubud is so crammed with attractions it can almost seem like a visual assault at times. Try to make sure you allocate at least a week for your visit here, and take your time to explore properly. Visitors who jump up to Ubud for just two or three days of their Bali holiday, stand little chance of understanding much of what is going on around them.

The key historical sites are located out of town, some as far as 20 km away, and you might find it worthwhile joining a tour to visit these. If you do visit attractions such as Goa Gajah, Gunung Kawi, Pura Kehen and Tirta Empul under your own steam, try to find a knowledgeable guide when you get there. Whilst you will certainly appreciate the beauty of these places, their cultural and spiritual significance may be lost without a guide.

Temples and historical sites










Landscape


The area around Ubud is characterised by gently rolling rice paddies, and these create an impression of greenness which can be quite startlingly beautiful. This is especially true to the south and southeast of the town. Any visitor approaching from the south will appreciate this and it is worth a stop just to absorb the gentle beauty of it all.

Far more off the beaten path is to explore the rice fields immediately north of town. A good route is to take Jl Raya eastwards from the town centre and turn north up the small road immediately adjacent to the BCA Bank building. Proceed up this road through the village of Kutuh and just keep going, turning where you feel like it. This is a very gentle, rural area with some lovely landscape. A great way to explore is by bicycle as there are no steep hills to negotiate here.



On the opposite side of town in the Campuhaun, Sanggingan, and Kedewatan areas, the landscape changes dramatically as great gorges have been carved out of the limestone land base by the Ayung and Wos rivers. It's no surprise that so many five star hotels have made their home in these lush, dramatic valleys. Opportunities for viewing these gorges are many. You can just find your own way and explore by motorbike (it is very hard work by bicycle as the hills are steep). Head west out of town over the Campuhan Bridge and just start exploring. The main road here is Jl Raya Sanggingan, and if you continue heading away from town you will reach the junction with Jl Raya Kedewatan. From that point you can turn in either direction and just keep exploring. Alternatively, you can stop into a hotel or restaurant, have a drink or lunch, and gaze out in very civilised surroundings. If your pockets are deep, the restaurant at the Four Seasons in Sayan probably has the best views of all of the Ayung Gorge. A more budget conscious option is the lovely Indus restaurant in Sanginngan, with tables facing out to the Wos River.



Do
As a centre of the arts, Ubud has dance and shadow puppet performances every night. There are also plenty of spas for resynchronising your chakras, and all manner of spiritual classes and treatments, some distinctly less genuine than others.



Spas




Whitewater rafting and other outdoor activities
There is good rafting available on the Ayung River at Sayan, just west of Ubud. Almost as good as the rafting itself is the wonderful experience of being right down inside the Ayung gorge. This is the domain of high-end resorts like the Four Seasons and Amandari, and it is a very scenic area indeed. The rapids are Class II and Class III, and best during the rainy season as the river can run a bit dry from June to September. There are two well established operators, both with offices on the main road in Sayan, close to Amandari, however other operators have sprung up.

Cycle tours are an increasingly widespread and popular option.



Buy


Ubud has a vast assortment of art and jewelry shops. Head for the boutique type stores on Jl Monkey Forest and Jl Raya Ubud for higher quality goods (with appropriately higher prices), or down to the market for bulk-produced cheapies.



Craft villages between Ubud and Sanur
The 25-km road to Ubud from Sanur in the south passes through a series of small towns and villages which specialize in the production of particular arts and crafts. The towns are Batubulan/Singakerta for stone carvings, Celuk for silver jewellery, Batuan for paintings, and Mas for wood carvings. The whole area is sometimes referred to as the "craft villages" of Bali, although it is all a bit more built-up and congested than one might infer from the term "village."

This is the best area to see and buy a wide variety of Balinese craftwork in a short period of time. There are many large showrooms where arts and crafts in the Balinese style are offered for sale. Nearly all organised day-tours of central Bali stop at one or more of these showrooms (and the tour operators usually have a financial tie-up with the places where they stop, collecting a commission on purchases.) Be careful, many of these shops specialise in pricing based on huge commissions to the drivers and tour busses.

Eat
Ubud is renowned in Bali for its wide range of restaurants, and is probably second only to Seminyak in terms of the quality of the offerings. Travelers on a budget will not be short of options, as there are many simple warungs serving up the standard Indonesian staples.

Budget


If you are looking more for the low-budget one-dish meal aka Rp 15,000-25,000, it’s easier to go on Jalan Cok Gede Rai and around (Ayam goreng prambanan, Mr Kebab Martabak, Burger Bangor Express Ubud…). You can occasionally find mobile street food like bakso but it seems less common in centre.



Splurge
Many of the five-star hotels in and around Ubud have top class restaurants, with the Four Seasons Resort and Maya Ubud being of special note.



Drink
Ubud is emphatically not party town: there are a few places for a quiet drink, but the strictly enforced local regulation that all live performances and loud music must end by 22:30 puts a bit of a clamp on the local nightlife. More often than not, visitors have a quiet drink with their evening meal, and call it a night.

Sleep
Ubud has a vast selection of lodging for all budgets. Many visitors prefer to avoid the noisy, congested, and crowded town centre and instead stay out in nearby rural areas, ideally with views of the famous rice terraces, but this can make it a little difficult to get around. As in most of Bali, in all but the grandest of hotels, check-in and check-out times are a bit of a moveable feast. It is safe to assume about 14:00 and 11:00.

Budget
Ubud has many homestays which are the cheapest form of lodging, a good way to meet the locals, and the natural replacement for hostels on the backpacker circuit. If you want to stay in town, the area around Jl Monkey Forest is generally the most expensive little more expensive (from Rp80,000-100,000 per night). If you want cheaper prices try the areas around Jl Hanoman, north of Jl Raya Ubud and further out in Peliatan. In the low season especially, bargains can be had by those willing to bargain. Jn Kajeng, close to the centre, is a peaceful, mostly pedestrianised street with many small budget to mid-range homestays - those on the west side have views at the rear towards the river, waterfall or nearby rice fields.







Splurge




Resorts
Several of the leading luxury resorts anywhere in Asia are located in Ubud. Expect superb standards, with prices to match.



Private villas
The following are private, individual villas which only take a single group of customers at a time.



Stay safe
Ubud is a safe town to visit and few problems will ever be encountered.

Be wary around the monkeys that occupy the Monkey Forest. They are experts at stealing possessions like glasses, earrings, cameras and even handbags, and have been known to attack people that are carrying food. Rabies is also a concern in Bali, and the likelihood is that these monkeys could carry the disease. No matter how cute they look, feeding them is just asking for trouble.

Stay healthy
Dengue fever outbreaks are not uncommon, so be diligent with mosquito repellant. Ubud does not have a fully fledged hospital and the nearest is about 20 km to the south in Denpasar. There are a number of reasonable clinics, though, which are used to treating typical traveller ailments.



Internet
Most dedicated internet cafes provide computers with fairly low speed access at a low price, Rp6,000 per hour being the current standard. There is only one truly high speed location, Highway on Ubud Main Road, but be prepared to pay a lot more than in other places.

In cafes and restaurants free wifi for customers is increasingly widespread. If you have your own laptop and don't need high speeds that's probably the best way to go, but beware of the hours internet is available can be fewer than the hours a restaurant is open. KAFE for example has excellent and uncommonly fast internet in a great environment but internet is only available from opening until 12:00 and from 15:00-18:00.



Post
There is a refreshingly old-fashioned main post office at the Jl Raya Ubud end of Jl Jembawan. If you are staying in Ubud for any length of time, you can use this as a poste-restante office. Make sure you have your passport with you when you want to collect any mail or parcels.



Telephone
The area code for Ubud is 0361. +62 361 XXXXXX for international callers.

All of the major Indonesian mobile telephone networks have full coverage of the Ubud area. If you need to make an international landline call, there are many public phone shops (wartels) in the town. As with the rest of Bali, the few public telephones that exist are extremely unlikely to be in working order.

Go next
Ubud is well located for moving on to other areas of Bali.


 * If you are heading east, the road to Candidasa and beyond via Klungkung is often busy with trucks, but a nice one hour drive nonetheless.
 * Bedugul has a traditional fruit market, a splendid botanical garden, and the Ulun Danu Bratan temple, about one hour north by car.
 * The region around Tabanan has Mount Batukaru and the Batukaru Temple, as well as the rice fields around Jati Luwih, about one hour north by car.
 * Lovina is an easy-going black-sand beach, about two hours north by car.