Ubeda

Compact and walkable, the small city of Úbeda can be found just off the main Andalusian tourist trail at the centre of Spain's Jaén province. As a refreshing change, Moorish heritage is not the main draw here; it's the fantastic collection of Italian-inspired Renaissance era palaces and churches.

History
These graceful hills have likely settled since at least Roman times, although the town of Úbeda wouldn't be known as such until the rule of the Emir Abd ar-Rahman II (822–852). The town was ruled by the Moors for centuries, until falling into Christian hands during the Reconquista, in 1233.

After years of internecine squabbling between minor nobles, tensions among the ruling families had reached a boiling point. Isabella and Ferdinand feared the nobility would soon turn their armies on one another, so the two monarchs hatched a plan. The high stone walls of Úbeda's Alcázar were commanded to be toppled. Unruly nobles were ordered to cooperate and rebuild together if they wanted to have any hope of defending their city. This&mdash;perhaps along with small quality of life improvements for the peasants&mdash;seems to have done the trick of restoring good order.

At the dawn of the 16th century, a relative peace and fortuitous location allowed Úbeda to prosper through trade. The town's fortunes improved yet again when emperor Charles V married into a local family, spurring a rash of stately Renaissance construction. Many of the fine buildings in town today date from this time.

Eventually the political spotlight turned elsewhere. Over the years a series of natural disasters and wars took their toll on the local economy, and the town was brought to its lowest point. Later, as the 20th century rolled on, agricultural improvements allowed more olives to be grown. Today tourism and cultural events are the newest additions to Úbeda's growing repertoire.

Get in
With the closest train station being in Linares and airports being hundreds of miles away, your best bet is going to involve four wheels.

By bus
Úbeda has a great, if small,. Dozens of ALSA buses shuttle back and forth to nearby Baeza (€2, 15 min) and Jaén'(€6, 1 hr) daily, while there are also frequent connections with Granada (€8-13, 2½ hr) and other points to the south. You'll also find a few buses serving Cordoba (€7-13, 2 hr 30 min) and points north. A dozen or so lockers are available on-premises for 24-hour rental for about €4. There is a taxi stand just outside the station on Calle San José. If you're connecting to a local bus, the stop is just across the street.

By car
The A-32 from Linares, and the A-316 from Jaén will both run you into town. If you're headed instead from far away Albacete, the N-322 will be the road for you. All roads are quite well maintained and easy to navigate.

Get around
Seeing the sights in town is an activity best undertaken on foot. The bus station is about a mile from the center; however, so consider cabbing it to your hotel when you first arrive. Private cars are not worth it at all in Úbeda, as parking is scarce and many sites are not accessible by car. Plus, all the modern ride-hailing apps are available here if you do find yourself in need of making a quick trip. Bikes are a great idea if you're going to be touring the captivating countryside; but again, the general closeness of everything and roughness of the old streets make in town cycling trips often not worth it.

See


The dozens of magnificent Renaissance era buildings here were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2003, and by far and away the reason most folks stop by. If possible, avoid visiting Úbeda on Mondays, when many sites are closed or have reduced hours. While all facades have been preserved, few interiors remain in their original 16th century state. They've often been turned into municipal buildings, or stately hotels for the well heeled. Either way, they're beautiful. It's easy to let your imagination run wild as you get lost rambling through the narrow streets of the old city.



Buy
There's honestly not that many shops here selling items that couldn't be found in a larger city. But if you're looking anyway, your best bet may be to stroll Calle Real. This busy commercial street starts just behind the clock tower, and makes a straight shot down-down-down towards the center of the old city.

Eat
Granada isn't the only place where tapas are still come gratis with your drink order! This custom may endure here due to Úbeda's cultural roots, or it could simply be the lower number of tourists traipsing about town. Whatever the reason, the tradition carries on.

Traditional local cuisine from Úbeda is home cooked, featuring the omnipresent olive, yet changing with the seasons. Several popular stews in the area originate from old Moorish recipes; like chickpeas with chard, or fava beans with eggplant. Keep an eye out for Los Andrajos, a typical pasta dish you'll find accented with seasonal vegetables.



Drink
There aren't dozens of options for nightlife in Úbeda, but the town is just big enough to support a smattering of late-night establishments.



Sleep
If there is a bit of room in the budget, consider upgrading your hotel room while in town. Prices are a bit more reasonable here, and a small bump might see your surroundings improve considerably.



Go next

 * Offering the incredible Alhambra&mdash;among many other attractions&mdash;Granada is an unmissable Andalusian delight. Two and a half hours by bus.
 * Spend two hours heading north to Cordoba. You'll be a bit hotter, but taking in the famous striped archways of La Mezquita makes every bead of sweat worth it.
 * Baeza, Úbeda's sister city is few minutes away and offers a similar array of beautiful Renaissance architecture.
 * Long a relative touristic backwater, visitors are beginning to rediscover Jaén's many cultural and natural resources.
 * Stay off the beaten track by getting out and exploring the village of Cazorla and its Parque Natural Sierras de Cazorla.