Tumanyan



Tumanyan (also often referred to by the old name of Dzaghidzor) is in Northern Armenia. The cute little town has a nice town square which has stunning views of the Debed Canyon's cliffs. The town square holds the quirky little Tumanyan Matchbox Label Museum, and the Soviet-themed Flying Samovar Cafe.

Understand
The town was founded during the Soviet period and some of the town is said to have been built by German prisoners-of-war. The neat little rows of houses, and polished town square speak to the once prosperous past of the city. Multiple stairways climb through the town, connecting the streets for pedestrians. Unemployment and emigration have been massive issues since the collapse of the USSR closed the clothing factory and the massive industrial ceramic factory, which together once employed almost everyone in the town. The population may have dropped to 1/3 of its high at the end days of the USSR.

Although the name officially changed to Tumanyan in 1951, locals in the region are still about as likely to call it by the previous name of Dzaghidzor (gorge of flowers) as they are to call it Tumanyan.

From Armenia
There is a shared taxi daily from around 1pm providing door to door service from Yerevan to Tumanyan (or the reverse in the mornings) for 2000 dram. Seats should be booked at least 24 hours in advance. 091-511-811, 096-02-49-49, 077-97-49-49. Make sure to tell them you should be dropped off in Tumanyan Dzaghidzor.

A marshutka (public transport van) goes to Vanadzor every day of the week in the morning at 09:00, and departs for Tumanyan again from Vanadzor at 14:00 at the main Kilikia bus station (avtokayan). 500 drams each way.

A marshutka (public transport van) goes each weekday in the morning at 10:00 from the and returns in the afternoon at 13:30 from. The cost is 300 drams each way.

From Yerevan, you can catch a marshutka from the Kilikia Bus Station to either Vanadzor or Alaverdi. The one to Alaverdi allows you to hop off at the Tumanyan town bridge (let them know), but the last Alaverdi marshutka leaves at 4, and it's best to get there a bit early to ensure a seat. The Vanadzor marshutkas run later, but you then need a connection to Tumanyan, which is explained above.

Hitching is also an option.

From Georgia
If you're planning on travelling overland from Georgia, you can catch one of the daily marshutkas that leave from Tbilisi for Yerevan from different stations (Station Square, Ortchala, Avlabari): as long as they're following the Vanadzor route, they should be able to drop you off in Tumanyan as well. however, the easiest and most reliable station is the Avlabari Metro Station, which should follow a general daily schedule of 9:00-11:00-13:00-15:00-17:00.

Avlabari is on the Akhmeteli–Varketili metro line. Once out of the Avlabari metro station, go to your right: you'll find the marshurtka office where to book your seat on your left, in between the TBC bank office and the Rayscan. There is a person that speaks English. Make sure you mention you need to get off in Tumanyan, so that they'll inform the driver. They'll write down your name and you'll pay directly to the driver, cash only. You'll pay full price (50GEL, May 2024) regardless if you're final destination is before Yerevan. In high season it might be best to book your seat one day in advance.

Remember: you'll be crossing an overland border, so make sure you have the proper visa, if needed, and documents.

When at the border, you'll get off of the marshutka once to get your passport checked and stamped out of Georgia. You'll get on and then off again, this time with your bags as well, so that your passport may be stamped into Armenia and your luggage checked at customs. After all controls, you'll go though a duty-free area and you'll get on your marshutka again, ready to join Tumanyan!

Get around
The central part of town is where most visitors will stick to and is quite easy to get around on foot.

Hiking
The following are some of the recommended trails connecting to Tumanyan:

Buy
Many locals keep bees, and sell their honey to supplement their income. Ask around for some truly natural, unheated honey by the kilo. The price as of August, 2021 is 4,500 dram per kilo. The locals make homemade preserves (muraba) out of many fruits and berries, including sour cherries, cornelian cherries, regular cherries, apricots, quince, raspberries, blackberries, mulberries and many others. Homestill vodka (oghi) is also made from these fruits and others. Locals may sell some of their supply to you if you ask.

Drink
The homemade vodka (oghi) is potent and tasty. The local regional beer is called Alaverdi and is only available on tap. The stores carry this.