Toulouse

Toulouse is the chief city of Haute-Garonne in the Occitanie region of France. It stands north of the Pyrenees on the River Garonne, halfway between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. Toulouse is the fourth largest city in France (after Paris, Marseille and Lyon), with a metropolitan population of almost 1½ million in 2020. It's known for its rugby, its aerospace industry and for violets, which are used to make bonbons and liqueurs.

Understand
The city was a Roman settlement, "Tolosa", and the smaller inner streets still follow the ancient layout. After Rome fell, it became capital of a Visigoth kingdom, but the region was roiled by secular, dynastic and religious wars, such as those against the Cathar heretics. The Dominican Order was founded in the city in 1216 to win back the Cathars to orthodoxy by peaceful preaching, but when that didn't work the Pope launched a crusade and massacre. Toulouse and its realm thereby lost independence and in 1271 were annexed to the Kingdom of France.

In the fourteenth century, Toulouse was devastated by pogroms, the Black Death, famine, and war. In the fifteenth century, it became wealthy from its monopoly on "pastel," a blue pigment extracted from woad plants, only to slump again when the monopoly was broken by indigo imports from India. It suffered several fires, the worst in 1463, so it was re-built in brick rather than wood. An 18th century boom led to a spate of construction in pink terracotta brick, giving rise to its nickname La ville rose. The university flourished: founded in 1229, it's one of the oldest in the world, and now has over 100,000 students. Fermat pondered his theorems here in between his legal work. On 10 April 1814, Toulouse saw the last battle of the forces led by Wellington out of Spain against Napoleon – neither side was aware that Napoleon had already surrendered. Marshal Soult held the city for a day then fled.

The city missed out on the Industrial Revolution, but in the 20th century its distance from Germany and Britain made it a safe base for the fledgling French aviation and defence industries. These burgeoned by the end of the century so Toulouse has become a major centre of aviation and spaceflight. A tenth of the inner city population work in aerospace, and Airbus is the largest employer in the region.

By plane
Onward travel options in 2023 are:
 * Airport Navette runs from Arrivals Gate C to the main railway station, taking 25 min via 4 downtown stops, every 15 min 06:00–00:00. Single fare is €9, valid for 90 min for transfers onto city public transport.
 * Tisseo Bus towards Blagnac, whichever departs next. Bus 30 brings you to Odyssud-Ritouret and Bus 31 to Pasteur – Marie de Blagnac, both on Tram line T1 from MEETT to the city. Ride the tram all the way to Palais de Justice (Metro B) or get off at Arènes for west bank and Metro A. This connection runs every 10–20 min from 06:00 to midnight and takes 50 min, for the princely sum of €1.80. The direct Tram T2 has been discontinued due to the construction of Metro Line C.
 * A taxi to central Toulouse costs about €20.
 * Shuttles can be arranged to other destinations such as Andorra – a good option if you're laden with ski gear.

By train

 * Wikivoyage has a guide to Rail travel in France.

By road
From Paris the quickest is usually straight south on A10, A71 and A20. You can also stay on A10 to Bordeaux then turn inland on A62.

From the Med coast including Barcelona take A9 to Narbonne then A61 west.

By bus
FlixBus runs twice a day from Paris Bercy Seine (10 hr non-stop) and once from Marseille (6 hr via Nîmes and Montpellier).

They run from Barcelona five times a day (6 hr via Perpignan) and from Madrid once (10 hr non-stop).

Andbus runs from Andorra la Vella 2–3 times per day, taking 3 hours.

The bus station is just north of the main railway station and is on the Metro. The airport shuttle bus terminates here.

By boat
Toulouse is the mid-point of the "Canal des Deux Mers" linking the Atlantic with the Mediterranean. The eastern part, the Canal du Midi, is the most interesting, as it climbs out from Toulouse over the hills then down through Carcassonne and Béziers to reach the Med at Sete. The western part parallels the River Garonne down through Agen to Bordeaux and the Gironde estuary. You'll need to hire a long-boat and set aside several weeks. Check ahead in case any canal sections are closed for repair.

Get around
Toulouse is a big city, but the historical centre is compact, between the Garonne River and Metro B Line. You can walk to most attractions.

Bus, tram, metro lines and cable car are operated by Tisseo. Tram T1 starts downtown at Palais de Justice, crosses the river west to Arènes interchange, then runs north to Beauzelle and the MEETT – get off in Blagnac for the airport bus. (Tram 2 is axed.) Metro line A runs southwest to northeast, from the University through Arènes and the railway station. Metro line B runs north–south, passing the main railway station and Palais de Justice. Two other lines are actually suburban trains: Line C west to Colomiers and Auch (can be taken with a Tisseo fare between Arènes and Colomiers), and line D south to Muret. Buses run along all the main streets but don't come into the pedestrianised core of the city, except the free city-centre shuttle (M–Sa) – no bus stops for this one, just wave at the driver.

A single ticket paid on the bus costs €2 in 2023. A ticket from a machine or kiosk for any Tisseo transport is €1.80, a book of 10 is €15.10 and a one-day pass is €6.80. Validate your ticket on boarding, and it's good for transfers within one hour (within 90 min to and from the airport.) Services become sparse late evening, but there's an extensive night network.

Taxi operators include Taxi Toulouse (+33 5 6120 9000) and Capitole (+33 5 3425 0250). Pre-book to avoid long waits for a ride.

Bike rental is organised by Town Hall. First you need to buy a ticket at velo.toulouse.fr or at a bike station. A one-day ticket is €1.20 and a 7-day pass is €5, longer hires are available. You have unlimited journeys, for no extra charge for the first 30 mins, then the meter starts ticking.

Bike lanes The city has a dense network of bike lanes and bicycle-friendly streets with little motorized traffic. A lot of people cycle and it is generally very safe and enjoyable to move in the city by bike. Along the Canal du Midi there is a pleasant bike lane connecting important locations like the center and the university campus.

Avoid going downtown with a car as parking is seriously limited and many streets are closed to motorized traffic. Try using a suburban metro or tram station as a park-and-ride.

City centre
The old centre of Toulouse is east of the River Garonne: it's compact and most places of interest can easily be visited on foot. It's bounded to the east and north by Bvd Lazare Carnot / Bvd de Strasbourg, and to the south by the cathedral, Rue Metz and Pont Neuf.


 * Notre-Dame du Taur is at 12 Rue du Taur 100 m north of the Capitole. It was built at the spot where St Sernin's body broke from the bull that had dragged him to death; this legend is uncannily similar to those of Mithras. His remains were later transferred to the basilica and the present church is from 14th–16th century in pink-brick Gothic.
 * means "New Bridge" but it's by far the oldest bridge across the Garonne river, built 1544 to 1626. The arches aren't symmetrical – they were supposed to represent the face and haunches of a lion, but you'll need a lot of imagination to visualise that. The water-tower ("chateau d'eau") at its west end hosts photography exhibitions.
 * 500 m downstream also has pleasant river views.
 * 500 m downstream also has pleasant river views.

Further out



 * Muséum de Toulouse is the Natural History Museum, north side of the gardens at 35 Allée Jules Guesde. It's open Tu–Su 10:00–18:00, adult €7, conc €5.
 * L'Envol des Pionniers is a museum of aviation history, at 6 Rue Jacqueline Auriol next to Halle de la Machine, open Tu–Su 10:00–18:00.
 * Muséum de Toulouse is the Natural History Museum, north side of the gardens at 35 Allée Jules Guesde. It's open Tu–Su 10:00–18:00, adult €7, conc €5.
 * L'Envol des Pionniers is a museum of aviation history, at 6 Rue Jacqueline Auriol next to Halle de la Machine, open Tu–Su 10:00–18:00.
 * L'Envol des Pionniers is a museum of aviation history, at 6 Rue Jacqueline Auriol next to Halle de la Machine, open Tu–Su 10:00–18:00.
 * L'Envol des Pionniers is a museum of aviation history, at 6 Rue Jacqueline Auriol next to Halle de la Machine, open Tu–Su 10:00–18:00.
 * L'Envol des Pionniers is a museum of aviation history, at 6 Rue Jacqueline Auriol next to Halle de la Machine, open Tu–Su 10:00–18:00.
 * L'Envol des Pionniers is a museum of aviation history, at 6 Rue Jacqueline Auriol next to Halle de la Machine, open Tu–Su 10:00–18:00.
 * L'Envol des Pionniers is a museum of aviation history, at 6 Rue Jacqueline Auriol next to Halle de la Machine, open Tu–Su 10:00–18:00.
 * L'Envol des Pionniers is a museum of aviation history, at 6 Rue Jacqueline Auriol next to Halle de la Machine, open Tu–Su 10:00–18:00.

Do

 * What's on? For local events read La Dépêche du Midi or Intramuros, or watch TV Sud or the local section of France 3.
 * Take a walk along the river quays.
 * Théâtre du Capitole hosts the opera house and orchestra, Box Office +33 5 6163 1313.
 * is the eastern and more interesting section of the "Canal des Deux Mers", and it's a . It starts from the River Garonne to the northwest, circling city centre so its first few km are walkable. But the best sections are further out, as it climbs the hillside then descends through Carcassonne and Beziers towards Étang de Thau on the Med. So you probably want a bike or canal barge to explore it.
 * Rent a bike: see "Get around".
 * Rugby Union: ("Les rouges et noirs") play Rugby Union in the French Top 14. They're seldom out of the top places and so qualify for European tournaments – they've won the European Rugby Champions Cup a record four times. Their home ground is Stade Ernest Wallon, but big matches are often played at the Stadium de Toulouse.
 * Rugby League: Toulouse Olympique or TO XIII play in the English RL system Feb–Sept. They were relegated in 2022 and now play in the English Championship. TO XIII share Stade des Sept Deniers (aka Stade Ernest-Wallon). Their second-string team Toulouse Olympique Broncos remain in the French Elite One Championship, playing Oct–March at Stade de Minimes.
 * Football: Toulouse FC were promoted in 2022 and now play soccer in Ligue 1, the top tier in France. Their home ground is (capacity 33,000, formerly "Stadium Municipal") on the river island 1 km south of city centre. In 2023 it was this ground, not the rugby stadium, that staged matches in the Rugby Union World Cup.
 * Golf: a dozen courses around the city, such as Golf de Toulouse 5 km south.
 * La Kermesse is a music festival at the Pony Club near the airport, next held 16–19 Aug 2023.
 * Piano Jacobins is next held 6–29 Sept 2023.
 * La Kermesse is a music festival at the Pony Club near the airport, next held 16–19 Aug 2023.
 * Piano Jacobins is next held 6–29 Sept 2023.

Work
You need eligibility to work in the EU and a good knowledge of French. The catering / hospitality sector is always hiring. Aviation is the big business here but they mostly seek technical skills for long-term jobs.

Eat
Local specialities are:


 * Duck, for instance canard confit (roast duck leg) or canard foie gras (duck liver pate).
 * Cassoulet is a stew made with white beans, meat (such as Toulouse sausage), and pork skin.
 * Violets used to make candy.

The areas around Place du Capitole, Bvd de Strasbourg and Place St Georges are lined with cafes and restaurants.

Mid-range

 * Le Soulier is a branch of Aux Pieds sous la Table at 3 Place Montourlieu near Grand Rond.
 * Le Soulier is a branch of Aux Pieds sous la Table at 3 Place Montourlieu near Grand Rond.
 * Le Soulier is a branch of Aux Pieds sous la Table at 3 Place Montourlieu near Grand Rond.
 * Le Soulier is a branch of Aux Pieds sous la Table at 3 Place Montourlieu near Grand Rond.
 * Le Soulier is a branch of Aux Pieds sous la Table at 3 Place Montourlieu near Grand Rond.
 * Le Soulier is a branch of Aux Pieds sous la Table at 3 Place Montourlieu near Grand Rond.

Drink

 * The George and Dragon is a lively British-style pub with TV sport. It's at 1 Place de Peyrou 150 m west of the Basilica.
 * The Classroom is an Irish pub at 42 Rue Pargaminières 300 m west of Capitole.
 * The Botanist is an English-style alehouse with good grub. It's at 33 Bvd Maréchal Leclerc south flank of the Japanese Garden, open M–F 09:00–02:00, Sa 15:00–03:00, Su 12:00–02:00.
 * Distilleries: Maison Victors or Straw Bale Distillery make pink Pastis. They're in Vacquiers 20 km north, tours by arrangement.
 * Bear Brothers 10 km south in Auzeville make vodka, gin, and raw spirits for liqueur manufacturers.
 * Black Mountain 10 km west past the airport make Occitan Whisky.
 * Distilleries: Maison Victors or Straw Bale Distillery make pink Pastis. They're in Vacquiers 20 km north, tours by arrangement.
 * Bear Brothers 10 km south in Auzeville make vodka, gin, and raw spirits for liqueur manufacturers.
 * Black Mountain 10 km west past the airport make Occitan Whisky.

Buy

 * Supermarkets: the main chain within city centre is Carrefour.
 * Flea markets are on Saturday morning outside the Basilica of St-Sernin, and first weekend of the month at Allées François Verdier, at the Grand Rond.
 * Fruit & veg markets are along Bvd de Strasbourg on weekday mornings, and next to Saint Aubin basilica on Sunday morning.
 * Friperies are second-hand clothing shops. Find them especially on Rue Gambetta, behind the Ecole des Beaux Arts, and around Place de la Bourse.
 * Violets are processed into many items of giftware, such as soap, perfume, candy and syrup.

Mid-range

 * Ibis Toulouse Gare Matabiau is next to the railway station.
 * Ibis Toulouse Centre is round the corner from Hotel Innes at 2 Rue Claire Pauilhac.
 * Ibis Toulouse Centre is round the corner from Hotel Innes at 2 Rue Claire Pauilhac.
 * Ibis Toulouse Centre is round the corner from Hotel Innes at 2 Rue Claire Pauilhac.
 * Ibis Toulouse Centre is round the corner from Hotel Innes at 2 Rue Claire Pauilhac.
 * Ibis Toulouse Centre is round the corner from Hotel Innes at 2 Rue Claire Pauilhac.
 * Ibis Toulouse Centre is round the corner from Hotel Innes at 2 Rue Claire Pauilhac.

Connect
As of Aug 2023, Toulouse and its approach roads have 5G from all French carriers. Wifi is widely available in public places, transport, cafes and so on.

Consulates

 * 🇨🇦 Canada
 * 🇵🇹 Portugal
 * Great Britain, which isn't even the correct name of the country, is shown on Google map near the airport but the building has been derelict for years.

Go next

 * Albi was the childhood home of Toulouse-Lautrec. His ancestral home now houses a gallery of his work.
 * Carcassonne is within a day trip, but you really ought to stay overnight in its fantastical citadel, which inspired Disney Castle.
 * Following the river downstream or its parallel canal leads you via Montauban, Moissac and Agen to Bordeaux. Branching north at Montauban leads to the picturesque town of Puy l'Eveque on the River Lot.
 * Andorra can be reached by N20 unless blocked by snow. The all-seasons route is from Spain on N-145 from La Seu d'Urgell.
 * A scenic train route from Toulouse winds through the Pyrenees to Barcelona. From Toulouse main station take the local train via Vernet d'Ariège to Foix (75 min, every couple of hours.) Several trains continue for another 75 min to L'Hospitalet-près-l'Andorre (the closest railway station to Andorra) and Latour-de-Carol / Entveig on the Spanish border (3 hours altogether). Latour is an oddity: it's in France sandwiched between two tracts of Spain: the Spanish exclave of Llivia is just north. And it's a station with three different railway gauges: European (SNCF) standard, Spanish (Renfe) standard, and the metre-gauge "Little Yellow Train". The Spanish trains run south to Barcelona Sants 5 times a day, 3 hours. (They're classed as suburban trains so they're not on mainline timetables. Search on Renfe Cercanias for Barcelona, and use the Spanish name "La Tour de Querol".) The Little Yellow Train is a tourist train that climbs over the mountains to Villefranche-de-Conflent (3 hours, with connections onward to Perpignan). It runs twice every day throughout the year. Finding online timetables is difficult, try the Cerdagne region website.