Tlaxcala

Tlaxcala (Tlaxcala de Xicohténcatl) is the capital of the state of Tlaxcala. The city still has many of its old colonial structures including the former Franciscan monastery, as well as newer civic structures such as the Xicohtencatl Theatre. It was home to 90,000 people in 2010.

Understand
The city of Tlaxcala arrived rather late in the scene of the history of Mexico. Around the 14th century, four polities known as the Tepeticpac, Ocotelolco, Tizatlan and Quiahuiztlan inhabited this area and jointly fought against the aggressive Aztecs that sought to capture prisoners for live sacrifice. The Spanish established a settlement around 1522 to enlist these groups in Spain's own besiegement of the Aztecs, and to evangelize and subjugate these tribes as well. They lost their lands and original ways of life. Spain set up a diocese in the primeval form of Tlaxcala (a Nahuatl word meaning place of corn bread, by the way), but it was eventually relocated to Puebla as the population dwindled over time.

It was on the heels of the signing of the Mexican Independence that Tlaxcala was founded in 1813, a connection that is marked by the naming of its main square Plaza de la Constitución (after the Cádiz Constitution). And a lot of effort has been put into creating a stately, colonial town center, which endures although development never really took off.

The name Tlaxcala most likely comes from a Nahuatl phrase which means “place of corn bread.” It is pronounced "tlass-kala". (If the "tl" sound is difficult for you, you can say "klass-kala" and nobody will notice the difference.)

Get in
You are out of luck insofar as air service here, but ATAH, Exal, and ADO provide some connections to other cities via bus. The central bus station is

It's a 50-minute bus ride from Puebla's bus station. The bus company Verdes is the main carrier. As of March 2022, the trip costs M$37, although you'll likely have to buy a rechargeable fare card for an additional M$10.

It's a 1 hour and 50-minute ride from Mexico City's TAPO bus terminal. Suprabus and Autobuses Tlaxcala Apizaco Huamantla both run hourly buses to Tlaxcala. The trip costs M$200 (January 2023).

If renting or driving your own car, Tlaxcala is an hour north of Puebla and about two hours east of Mexico City.

Get around
Walk or drive or use a taxi.

See
The city center is compact and filled with colonial-era building painted in colors such as burnt umber, salmon pink and mustard yellow. Most of these buildings are centered on the main square called the Plaza de la Constitución. This square measures 75 m (246 ft) on each side and was established when the Spanish laid out the city in 1524. The current name was given in 1813 to honor the Cádiz Constitution and the Mexican constitutions of 1857 and 1917. In the center of this square is the Santa Cruz Fountain which was donated to the city by Philip IV in 1646. There is also a kiosk which was constructed in the 19th century.

The Portal Hidalgo is on the east side of the main square, built as commercial space in 1550. The city hall was moved from its centuries-old home in the “Casas Reales” to this complex. The interior is dominated by the city council chamber (Salón de Cabildos) along with various municipal offices. On the lower level inside its section of the arches, there is a cultural space called “La Tlaxcalteca” which sells regional handcrafts and other goods as well as books about Tlaxcala's history.

Events
The city celebrates Carnival starting the Friday before Ash Wednesday, with the burning of an effigy to represent “bad humor” accompanied by funeral music. The following day, the queen of the carnival is selected. The main parade with floats occurs on Tuesday. During the long weekend there are various other events such as dance contests and recitals of traditional dace such as that of the Huehues from the community of Acuitlapilco. On Ash Wednesday, ceremonies end with a hanging of an effigy called “La Octava del Carnaval” Often the image is satirical, and of a person considered worthy of criticism.
 * The Feria de Todos Santos is an important event, dedicated to the agriculture, handcrafts and industry of the state. It also has cultural events such as concerts, art exhibits and dance as well as regional food and an inaugural parade.