Tlacotalpan

Tlacotalpan is a picturesque small town in eastern Veracruz on the Papaloapan River. The town is overlooked by many visitors to Mexico, despite being one of the most iconic colonial settlements in the country. Tlacotalpan has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site, largely due to its colonial architecture and well preserved town center. The town has also been designated as a Pueblo Magico by the Mexican government, indicating that it is regarded as one of the most charming small towns in Mexico.

Understand
The name "Tlacotalpan" means "land between the waters" in Nahuatl. The name reflects the fact that it was once an island on the Papaloapan River, though over the years, the river path has deviated and one side of the river silted up and today is solid ground.

Tlacotalpan was settled by the Spanish in 1550, though many of the town's structures date from the late 19th century.

The terrain is mostly flat wetlands with sugar cane growing in most nearby fields. The area is subject to coastal flooding during severe storms (usually in late summer), and to fog in winter months whenever a front rolls in.

By car
The fastest and most comfortable way to get to Tlacotalpan is to rent a car and drive. From the city of Veracruz, follow MEX 180 along the Gulf of Mexico until you reach the small town of Conejo Blanco, then turn right on to MEX 175. The route is pleasant and scenic with views of the wetlands and the Gulf of Mexico for much of the ride, and then views of the river as you get close to Tlacotalpan.

By bus
TRV buses serve Tlacotalpan. From the main bus station in Veracruz, the trip takes 2-1/2 hours and a ticket costs from M$115 to M$260, depending on demand and time of day. TRV is a second-class regional line, so buses aren't usually comfortable or clean and tickets are generally sold in-person, in cash.

Get around
It's a small town. Walking will get you anywhere.

Do

 * Boat rides on the Papaloapan River. Local boatmen offer rides in their wooden canoe-type vessels, though newer, more modern vessels are used by an outfit called El Cuenqueño (tickets across the street from the pier).
 * Celebrate the festival of Virgen de la Candelaria (patron saint of Tlacotalpan) on February 2 each year. Celebrations begin in late January. A figure of the Virgin is decorated in colorful adornments and then rides through town in a parade with 600 horsemen and a crowd of women dressed in traditional indigenous garb. Events at the local churches. Fandango dances.

Buy

 * Galeria Jardín del Arte Tlacotalpeño (Tlacotalpan Art Garden), Calle Pablo Díaz, local art on exhibition --- and for sale

Go next

 * Catemaco
 * Coatzacoalcos
 * Zempoala