Tetovo



Tetovo (Macedonian: Тетово, Albanian: Tetovë) is a town tucked into Polog region in the northwestern corner of western North Macedonia, in the shadow of the Šar Mountains. The major city of the Polog region, it has about 53,000 people, making it the fifth-largest city in North Macedonia. The Municipality of Tetovo, which includes 18 villages, has a population of over 86,000. Tetovo is a multi-ethnic city in which Albanians form a majority. This has led to some tensions, most recently in the early 2000s, when violence broke out. However, the situation has been calm for years now. Tetovo, its unique Ottoman monuments, and its cuisine should be a part of any trip to northwestern North Macedonia.

Understand
The population of Tetovo is majority ethnic Albanian, with a minority of Macedonians and others. While the city is often known as the unofficial capital of the Albanians of North Macedonia, and expressions of Albanian national pride, in the form of flag waving from houses and cars and graffiti depicting the map of the "Greater Albania", are common, this is by no means an exclusively Albanian city, and referring to it as such will offend the non-Albanian residents, particularly the ethnic Macedonians — and you can never know who you have been talking to.

The Roman alphabet, in which the Albanian language is written, dominates throughout the city, while Cyrillic signage can be seen on one of the main streets, which is probably the part of the city where the Macedonian community gathers.

Travellers will be rewarded with local hospitality and beautiful scenery in Tetovo.

History
Although there may have been inhabitants in Tetovo's area as early as the Bronze Age, Tetovo was mentioned for the first time in the beginning of 13th century as a small medieval Orthodox settlement around the Holy Mother of God Church in the upper part of town.

At the end of the 14th century, Tetovo, along with all of Macedonia, fell under the rule of the Ottoman Empire. As the Muslim population in Macedonia began to expand in the early Ottoman period, mosques, baths, and markets began to appear as early as the 15th century. Tetovo under Ottoman tutelage became an important trade center for the local farmers and craftsmen, as well as an important military fortification. Turkish influence deeply impacted Tetovo and it was renamed Kalkandelen (Turkish for "shield breaker", in honour of the blacksmiths of the city, who produced powerful swords and spears) to reinforce the new Islamic presence. Haci Halife in the 17th century noted in his writings that Kalkandelen was expanding at an amazing rate in its lowland areas.

By the 19th century, when the population of Tetovo began to increase with settlement from the surrounding villages, the French traveller Ami Bue noted that the population had reached about 4,500 people. In 1912, following the Balkan wars, Tetovo became a Serbian city. In World War II, Tetovo was jointly ruled by Italy and its puppet regime in Albania. The Communist Party of Macedonia was formed on March 19, 1943 in Tetovo. After the war, it became part of Yugoslavia.

In 2001, ethnic Albanians launched an insurgency in the Republic of Macedonia and Tetovo was the primary base for the insurgents. In the Tetovo village of Vejce, insurgents ambushed army forces, killing eight soldiers. This was the largest loss of government forces in the conflict and further provoked unrest. The Ohrid Agreement, guaranteeing wider rights for ethnic minorities, was signed later in the same year, ending the conflict.

Today, Tetovo is major city with two universities, many private companies, stores, some important historical sights.

By car
The highway Skopje-Gostivar goes through Tetovo. It is very nice and smooth road, but you have to pay on pay-tolls to drive on it twice (once while leaving Skopje, and once again on the approach to Tetovo), price 30 denars each time.

By foot
All of the sights within the city of Tetovo are within close walking distance of one another. The fortress, however, is almost an hour walk from the churches in the upper part of town.

By taxi
Taxis are available in Tetovo, with larger concentrations on major boulevards like Ilindenska and Maršal Tito.

See
Tetovo's most important and most interesting sights are reminders of its Ottoman heritage. This includes a unique mosque, a Bektashi Order monastery, a fortress, and a Turkish bath.
 * Tetovo has some interesting bridges across the Pena River, particularly the medieval single-arch Stone Bridge.
 * Tetovo has some interesting bridges across the Pena River, particularly the medieval single-arch Stone Bridge.

Churches
Tetovo's churches are relatively new by Macedonian standards, though they were often built atop older destroyed churches.

Further afield
Within Tetovo Municipality: Within Bogovinje Municipality, southwest of Tetovo:

Želino Municipality is south east of Tetovo.

Tearce and Jegunovce are two municipalities immediately east of Tetovo toward Kosovo. They contain several places of interest, particularly Lešok Monastery. Brvenica is south of Tetovo.

Do

 * Ski at
 * Watch football: KF Shkëndija play soccer in the Macedonian First League, the country's top tier. Their home ground is Ecolog Arena, capacity 15,000, northeast side of the city.
 * Watch football: KF Shkëndija play soccer in the Macedonian First League, the country's top tier. Their home ground is Ecolog Arena, capacity 15,000, northeast side of the city.

Learn

 * State University of Tetovo - is one of the four Macedonian state universities. The university was established on 17 December 1994, however it was not recognized as a state university by the Macedonian government until January 2004. Classes are held in Macedonian, English, and some in Albanian.
 * South East European University - was founded in October 2001 and is a member of the European University Association. It is a recognised and accredited autonomous higher education institution which was established in 2001 by an agreement between international donors, the government of the Republic of Macedonia, and the local academic community.

Buy




Eat
Tetovo is a food paradise. It is said that Tetovo produces the best Burek, a sort of greasy, phyllo dough pastry filled with cheese or ground meat that is popular throughout the Balkan peninsula. It resembles a cheese pie, but contains more fat and has stronger flavour. Also, by general consent, it is much more delicious. Some vendors sell other varieties such as apple, spinach or pizza burek (frequently just a combination between the meat and cheese Burek).

The Shopska salad is another phenomenal, yet simple, dish to be found in Tetovo. It consists of chopped up tomato, cucumber, onion, oil, a little salt and a generous topping of a domestic feta-like cheese. The local feta is usually less sharp than feta typically found in the west by a considerable margin. Most websites with recipes simply call it a brined sheep cheese and the French are known to make a similar feta. Another local trademark is the 'Urnebes' salad, literally translated as 'chaos' or 'pandemonium' - basically cream cheese in oil mixed with ground peppers, garlic and sometimes sesame.

Sharska Pleskavica, burger with yellow cheese, contains a concoction of spiced ground beef, pork and lamb. It may be served in a bun, pita bread or by itself on a plate depending on where you get one. It usually is accompanied by onions, a paprika based sauce and in the case of the fast-food-esque vendors you'll have a variety of sauces and toppings to accompany it.

Vegetarians had been almost totally neglected in Balkan regions until recently, but now most restaurants will have some options for them, too. Vegans might encounter more problems, although most are usually solved with the help of kind local restaurant owners. Note the traditional fasting periods, especially in April before Orthodox Easter holidays, when many restaurants offer fish and non-animal food, including some specialties.


 * Delfin, Illyria Street,
 * Rima, Jane Snadanski bb, +389 44 338 686
 * Burger House, Jane Sandanski, +389 44 529 444
 * MEANA Egej, Boris kidrik, bb, +389 44 341 360
 * Restaurant Shushu, Blagoja Toska (Благоја Тоска ББ), +389 70 840 121
 * Delfin, Illyria Street,
 * Rima, Jane Snadanski bb, +389 44 338 686
 * Burger House, Jane Sandanski, +389 44 529 444
 * MEANA Egej, Boris kidrik, bb, +389 44 341 360
 * Restaurant Shushu, Blagoja Toska (Благоја Тоска ББ), +389 70 840 121

Drink
Tap water is drinkable in Tetovo. Locals like to boast that, Tetovo has the best water on Balkans. Although this claim can probably be contested, the water from the central supply system is drunk by most residents. More cautious visitors are advised to buy bottled water in any shop: a variety of brands are available.

There is a throng of cafes in downtown Tetovo, most of which serve various coffee drinks, beers and liquors. Some specialty bars serve a more limited scope of beverages. There is, however, a large Muslim population in city, so some places will not serve alcohol.

Local wines are usually of the best of quality. The more expensive the better. International brands are offered in most bars.

Rakija, a powerful brandy made from various fruits (usually plum or grape), is a local favorite. Attention: some kinds may be pretty strong for a newbie.

Go next

 * Brvenica – A municipality just south of Tetovo
 * Skopje – 42 km to the east, is the nation's capital
 * Debar – Relaxing in its thermal mineral spas
 * Mavrovo National Park
 * Kičevo – Southward 1 hr drive. Visit St. Bogorodica Precista, a monastery with the 'flying icon'
 * Prizren – 110 km via Globocica. This historic Kosovar city is just north of Tetovo. However, the sheer wall of the Šar Mountains in between makes travel to Prizren take a lot longer than if the terrain were flat. While there is a shortcut-ish remote mountain route going there from Tetovo, detouring through Skopje is probably more reliable, especially if you want to take the public transport.