Taos

Taos is a prominent town of 6,000 people (2018) in North Central New Mexico. While much more laid-back than Santa Fe, Taos has become a popular travel destination in its own right, noted for its art colony, its New Age community, excellent skiing, and Taos Pueblo, a photogenic American Indian community that is open to visitors under controlled conditions.

Understand
The Town of Taos is one of several places with "Taos" (pronounced "touse", rhymes with "house" or "mouse") in their name, all part of the region and contributors to its attractiveness but differing in just what the attractions are. Ranchos de Taos is a small village south of Taos proper that is notable for a spectacularly scenic and much-photographed church. Taos Pueblo is just north of town, and is an ancient American Indian community (and UNESCO World Heritage Site) in a particularly beautiful setting. Taos Ski Valley, also known as Twining, is about 20 miles (32 km) north of town in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. Finally, the Taos Box is a section of the nearby Rio Grande known for its superb whitewater. Before setting out for an attraction, know exactly which Taos you're visiting; there are attractions outside Taos proper in Ranchos de Taos, Taos Pueblo and Taos Ski Valley, all of which are covered below with those for the town.

History
It's not clear exactly when the first humans arrived in the Taos area, but samples taken from the main structure of Taos Pueblo found it to likely have been built somewhere between 1000 and 1450 AD, which would make it one of the oldest continuously inhabited communities in the Americas. Situated in a tributary valley of the Rio Grande, Taos marked the northernmost extent of the Pueblo Indians. It would also mark the northernmost extent of Spanish settlement in the Southwest following the arrival of Spanish conquistadors and missionaries in the 17th century. Of all the pueblos, Taos may have been the most resistant to the brutal treatment they received from the Spanish, leading the Pueblo Revolt in 1680 and keeping up armed resistance to the Spanish long afterwards. Over time, the Spanish eventually began to fight alongside the Pueblo Indians against other tribes in the region, which led to the creation of the Spanish village of Taos in the 1790s.

In the early 1800s, many mountain men and fur trappers arrived in the area, many of them Americans who had arrived in New Mexico via the Santa Fe Trail. The transition to American rule was marked by violence in Taos; following the U.S. takeover of New Mexico in 1846, a group of Hispanics and Taos Indians led a revolt against the American government, killing the newly-appointed U.S. Governor, Charles Bent. The U.S. military responded in force, laying siege to Taos Pueblo and crushing the revolt, burning down the pueblo church in the process. In the years that followed, relations between natives and American settlers cooled down significantly.

Taos came to widespread attention in the early 1900s, when a group of prominent artists, lured by the region's scenery and culture, formed the Taos art colony and promoted the town within artist and writing circles. Their work typically focused on the landscape and the culture of Taos Pueblo and the Hispanic farming villages in the area. Modern artists and photographers would follow in the decades to come, as would Hippies and New Age practitioners, laying the groundwork for the thriving art scene that persists to this day and serves as the town's main draw.

By plane
The Albuquerque Sunport, three hours' driving time distant, is one of the nearest airports with extensive commercial air service.

Santa Fe Airport is the other nearest airport with extensive commercial service, with 2 hours drive time.

By car
Taos is about a two-hour drive north of Santa Fe. Its position on the west slopes of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains restricts road access somewhat, as there are few passes through the mountains and the ones that exist may be closed in the winter due to snow. Coming from Denver and other points north, there are two options: either follow Interstate Highway 25 to Raton and then US Highway 64 over Palo Flechado Pass and into Taos, or follow Colorado state road 159 south to the New Mexico border, at which point it becomes New Mexico state road 552 and continues to Taos.

There are also two routes into Taos from Santa Fe and Albuquerque. The most direct route follows US Highway 285 through Pojoaque to Española, then New Mexico state road 68 along the banks of the Rio Grande to Taos. There are a number of scenic viewpoints on this road; it's worth stopping to see if river runners are on the Rio, particularly during high water (spring) at which time this stretch of river is one of the finest whitewater experiences in the continental United States. The slower and higher, but even more scenic, "High Road to Taos" diverges at Pojoaque and first follows New Mexico 503 to Chimayo, then New Mexico 76 and New Mexico 75 to Peñasco, and then New Mexico 518 to outlying Ranchos de Taos and finally the Town of Taos. This is a beautiful drive in the spring and summer; the Sangre de Cristos are snow-capped until June or so, while later in the summer, the thunderstorms that build over the mountains provide a different kind of elemental beauty.

By bus
Faust Transportation provides local taxi, regional and airport shuttle, and charter bus service to the North Central NM area. Its airport shuttle is no longer operating. Twin Hearts Express Shuttle also provides shuttle services to the Taos area.

The NCRTD provides weekday commuter bus service that links Taos to the surrounding communities of the region, and a weekend service, the Taos Express, to Española and Santa Fe.

Get around
With little traffic Taos is easy to drive around in, seeing as there is really only one main road stretching from the beginning of town to the end. the downtown area is great for walking, with many restaurants, shops, and galleries to visit.

Taos Trolley Tours runs bus tours that reach most of the main attractions. The trolley-style bus won't move any more quickly through traffic than your car will, but using it will at least save you some aggravation behind the wheel, and reduce the congestion slightly for the other drivers. Call for details; usually closed during the winter.

For those without a car, it's relatively easy to hitchhike in and around town. For nearby northern towns, such as Arroyo Seco, Valdez, and Arroyo Hondo, walk north toward the gas station where Paseo del Pueblo (US-64) forms a fork with highway to the Taos Pueblo. Other established hitchhiking spots are at the Junction of US-64 North (Airport/Manby Spring), State Highway 522 (Arroyo Hondo/Stagecoach Spring), and State Highway 240 (Arroyo Seco), and north on Highway 240 at Old Blinking Light.

Taos also has an official form of public transportation, and that's the Chile Line  shuttle service,, which operates a free, fixed-route service on weekdays with designated stops along the main street of town (Paseo del Pueblo) up to the pueblo and a shuttle service from many of the hotels in Taos to the Taos Ski Valley.

Downtown Taos
The historic district at the center of town, this is where you'll find the majority of traveler attractions in Taos. , the historic center of town, is a shady town square surrounded by adobe architecture about half a block west of the intersection of Paseo del Pueblo and Kit Carson Road, which gets clogged with tourists in the summer months. The buildings surrounding the Plaza hold many of the town's finest restaurants and hotels, as well as a number of houses that belonged to founders of the art colony or other significant personages which have since been turned into museums and galleries.



Outdoor recreation

 * There are a number of fine hikes in the mountains after the skiing ends and the snow melts, with trailheads at Taos Ski Valley and elsewhere. Wheeler Peak, the highest summit in New Mexico at, is on the ridge opposite the main ski runs and is a popular hiking destination. Do not underestimate this mountain; in addition to the avalanche hazard during the winter, bad weather can strike at any time of the year and turn what is normally a hands-in-the-pockets walk into a life-threatening, and sometimes -ending, experience.
 * The Taos Box, within the Rio Grande del Norte National Monument, offers superb river running on the Rio Grande during the spring and summer. Several outfitters and guide companies operate out of Taos, and there are others based in small towns between Taos and Española. Some with acceptable credentials are:
 * Most trips on the Rio Grande take a full day, with some outfitters offering overnight outings that extend beyond the Taos Box. Pickup/dropoff, gear selection, etc., all vary according to the outfitter and trip; contact the outfitter directly to make arrangements. Reservations are a "must" for most trips.
 * Most trips on the Rio Grande take a full day, with some outfitters offering overnight outings that extend beyond the Taos Box. Pickup/dropoff, gear selection, etc., all vary according to the outfitter and trip; contact the outfitter directly to make arrangements. Reservations are a "must" for most trips.
 * Most trips on the Rio Grande take a full day, with some outfitters offering overnight outings that extend beyond the Taos Box. Pickup/dropoff, gear selection, etc., all vary according to the outfitter and trip; contact the outfitter directly to make arrangements. Reservations are a "must" for most trips.
 * Most trips on the Rio Grande take a full day, with some outfitters offering overnight outings that extend beyond the Taos Box. Pickup/dropoff, gear selection, etc., all vary according to the outfitter and trip; contact the outfitter directly to make arrangements. Reservations are a "must" for most trips.
 * Most trips on the Rio Grande take a full day, with some outfitters offering overnight outings that extend beyond the Taos Box. Pickup/dropoff, gear selection, etc., all vary according to the outfitter and trip; contact the outfitter directly to make arrangements. Reservations are a "must" for most trips.

Events

 * Throughout the year, Taos Pueblo hosts ceremonial dances that are sometimes open to visitors; see the website for dates and details. Of note is the Taos Pueblo Pow Wow, a gathering of Indian tribes that takes place annually on the second weekend in July, and the Feast Day of San Geronimo (the pueblo's patron saint) on September 30th.
 * Though nowhere near as large as the Balloon Fiesta in Albuquerque, the Taos Mountain Balloon Rally brings dozens of hot-air balloons to Taos, with mass ascensions, balloon glows, and a parade.
 * The holiday season brings plenty of events and local color, including a light parade in early December, luminarias on many Taos streets, and a Christmas Eve procession at Taos Pueblo, which involves massive bonfires and the Procession of the Virgin accompanied with rifle salutes. Also keep an eye out for Las Posadas, a traditional Hispanic play about Joseph and the Virgin Mary seeking lodging which takes place at local churches and parishes in the days leading up to Christmas.
 * Though nowhere near as large as the Balloon Fiesta in Albuquerque, the Taos Mountain Balloon Rally brings dozens of hot-air balloons to Taos, with mass ascensions, balloon glows, and a parade.
 * The holiday season brings plenty of events and local color, including a light parade in early December, luminarias on many Taos streets, and a Christmas Eve procession at Taos Pueblo, which involves massive bonfires and the Procession of the Virgin accompanied with rifle salutes. Also keep an eye out for Las Posadas, a traditional Hispanic play about Joseph and the Virgin Mary seeking lodging which takes place at local churches and parishes in the days leading up to Christmas.
 * The holiday season brings plenty of events and local color, including a light parade in early December, luminarias on many Taos streets, and a Christmas Eve procession at Taos Pueblo, which involves massive bonfires and the Procession of the Virgin accompanied with rifle salutes. Also keep an eye out for Las Posadas, a traditional Hispanic play about Joseph and the Virgin Mary seeking lodging which takes place at local churches and parishes in the days leading up to Christmas.

Learn

 * The Taos School of Music is a well-regarded summer program for the aspiring (age 18 and up) professional musician. The focus is on chamber music, with a very favorable student/faculty ratio and performance opportunities.  A concert series involving significant chamber ensembles is part of the program.  Admission into the program is highly competitive.

Buy

 * Taos Pueblo, like other New Mexico pueblos, is known for American Indian arts and crafts. Its pottery differs considerably in appearance from that of other pueblos owing to differences in the clay of the region.  Good Taos pottery has a unique "sparkle" caused by tiny flecks of mica.  Many shops in town carry this pottery, along with jewelry and other folk art from pueblos along the Rio Grande, but it's worth your time to look for pottery and jewelry at the pueblo itself.
 * More traditional "Anglo" (and Hispanic) art is available from all manner of galleries in the downtown area, as well as at gift shops associated with most of the museums. The places on the Plaza itself, unfortunately, tend toward tacky and schlocky, but you don't have to get far off the Plaza to get very good material.  The Taos Gallery Association hosts a web site with info on most of the more reputable galleries.  Be warned: some of the work at these galleries is seriously expensive (5 figures), but you get what you pay for.
 * If you want to update your ski equipment, many shops at Taos Ski Valley and in Taos itself will be happy to help you empty your bank account on the latest and greatest skis, boots, etc.
 * Most shopping on the plaza closes down from 5-6PM. During slow periods (such as in May, which is after ski season and before major summer travel season), some establishments go on extended breaks.

Eat
Many restaurants in Taos double as art galleries/outlets. You won't find any of the really good stuff there (unless it's art gallery first, restaurant second), but the prices on the workaday material are competitive with the galleries, and you'll have both a more interesting dining experience and an opportunity to browse or even buy the art without feeling guilty about not going for the big-ticket items. In the following, "Budget" restaurants have mains up to about $10 (exclusive of drinks, desserts and tips), "Mid-range" between $10 and $25, and "Splurge" greater than $25. There are many more restaurants in Taos than shown here.

Splurge
Many of the better restaurants in Taos decline to give "closing" hours for dinner, opting instead to stop serving when they feel like it. "Closing" is usually around 9PM M-Th, 9:30 or 10PM on Fridays and Saturdays. If you're anticipating a late dinner, it's good to call for information and make reservations.



Drink

 * Alley Cantina (see above under "Eat") often has country/western music and dancing.
 * Alley Cantina (see above under "Eat") often has country/western music and dancing.
 * Alley Cantina (see above under "Eat") often has country/western music and dancing.

Sleep
There are many hotels and B&Bs in this area, owing to the thriving tourist trade, and many of them are quite good yet not on this list.

Budget
Budget lodging in Taos can be a somewhat dicey proposition, and some hotels get extremely negative reviews. If you're really on a budget, one of the national chains may be the way to go, at the expense of "local color."



Connect
There is free Internet access at some sites around town, but most (supplied by laplaza.org) are nominally for town residents. Public wireless access for travelers is reported to exist at Taos Municipal Airport. Most major hotels offer wide-band services.

The Town of Taos has cellular service receives Verizon 4G LTE support. There are no street pay phones available in Taos.

Stay safe
The areas of and near Taos of most interest to the traveler generally have little crime, although the potential for petty theft from unlocked cars always exists, particularly in remote areas (e.g. at trail heads in the national forest). The main concerns are weather and road hazards. Winters can be harsh, particularly at higher elevations, and the wise motorist uses snow tires and has chains or 4 wheel drive available from November through March. Keeping warm clothing and an emergency kit in the car during this time is a good idea. Heavy snow creates hazards for outdoor recreation as well; use extreme caution in the mountains, as avalanche conditions are frequent. During the summer a different hazard appears: lightning. The Sangre de Cristos generate thunderstorms that produce frequent cloud-to-ground strikes. If you go hiking in the high country during summer, make sure you're off the high summits by 1PM at the latest, and keep an eye out for earlier-than-normal electrical activity.

Another contributor to safety concerns on the roadways is the unfortunate but undeniable fact that northern New Mexico has severe problems with drunk driving. Taos has less problems itself with this than some nearby areas, but vigilance on the highways is still a good idea, particularly after dark and on the highways into and outside the town.

Another safety hazard along the road to Taos are rock slides that may leave large rocks in the roadway capable of damaging the undercarriage of your vehicle. Take curves with caution and be prepared to slow to avoid hazards. In the Taos area, the danger of rock slides exists primarily on New Mexico state road 68 between Espanola and Taos.

Cope
If you're planning on visiting Taos in the winter be prepared for very cold temperatures. High temperatures reach only 30 - 40 F in the winter, whereas they reach 70 - 85 F in the summer.

Go next



 * The Sangre de Cristo Mountains above town contain a portion of the Carson National Forest and offer all manner of hiking, backpacking and horseback riding opportunities. Besides Taos Ski Valley (described above under Do), there are major ski areas at Angel Fire and Red River on the eastern side of the range not far from Taos, as well as the smaller and more rustic Sipapu to the south on NM 518. All are in general somewhat easier skiing than the notoriously "challenging" Taos Ski Valley, and see more beginners (Sipapu specifically bills itself as "family-oriented").  Red River also has a developed commercial site for Nordic (cross-country) skiing on groomed trails.  The drives to these areas are scenic even if you don't ski.
 * Virtually every road leading out of Taos is a scenic drive, but of note is the Enchanted Circle, a loop road that connects Taos to many of the nearby ski resort towns and passes through some beautiful mountain scenery. From Taos, you can drive north on NM 522 to the village of Questa, then east on NM 38 through Red River and the Sangre de Cristos to Eagle Nest, before returning west on US 64 past Angel Fire back to Taos. The drive takes anywhere from 2½ hours to a full day if you take the time to make stops along the way.
 * If you happen to be a fan of author D.H. Lawrence (one of the contributors to the Taos mystique in the early 20th century), his ashes are preserved at a curious "shrine" at the D.H. Lawrence Ranch, a property of the University of New Mexico about from town via SR 522.  It's open for visits during daylight hours.
 * The Rio Grande del Norte National Monument, administered by the BLM, covers the spectacular Rio Grande Gorge west of Taos. There are three primary sites of interest for visitors: the closest to Taos is the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge, on US Highway 64 about west of town, which spans the Rio Grande a dizzying  above the river. There are observation platforms at each end of the bridge, and it's definitely not for the acrophobic. North of Taos, near the village of Questa, is the Wild Rivers Recreation Area, at the confluence of the Rio Grande and Red River, with camping and picnicking sites on the rim of the gorge, spectacular views, and hiking trails down into the gorge. South of Taos, on NM Highway 68 towards Española, is the town of Pilar, situated within the gorge itself on the banks of the Rio Grande. In town proper is the Rio Grande Gorge Visitor Center as well as whitewater rafting companies offering trips on the river, and nearby are camping and picnic grounds along the river.
 * Picuris Pueblo, south of Taos at the west end of the town of Peñasco, is one of the highest of the American Indian pueblos of New Mexico and can be toured during daylight hours. There is a small tribal museum.  As at most Native American pueblos open to the public, a small fee is charged for photography, sketching, etc.