Sukhothai

Sukhothai (สุโขทัย) is a small city (population 14,000 in 2019) in Lower Northern Thailand, 427 km north of Bangkok. Its attraction lies in the ruins of the ancient city Sukhothai, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The name translates as "the dawn of happiness".

History
Ancient Sukhothai was the first capital of the Sukhothai Kingdom, a long arc of territory that ran through what is today's Laos and western Thailand as far as the Malay states. The kingdom was established in 1238 by Phokhun Si Intharathit, the founder of the Phra Ruang dynasty. It was the state that eventually had the greatest influence on the later Siamese and Thai kingdoms. Traditional Thai history has it that Ramkhamhaeng the Great, the third ruler of the Phra Ruang dynasty, developed the capital at Sukhothai. He is also venerated as being the inventor of the Thai alphabet and being an all-round role model for Thailand's politics, monarchy, and religion.

Today
The province's temples and monuments have been restored and the UNESCO-listed Sukhothai Historical Park covers a wide area with numerous sites. Other interesting places include Ramkhamhaeng National Museum, Ramkhamhaeng National Park, Sri Satchanalai National Park, and The Royal Palace and Wat Mahathat.

Climate
While enjoyable all year, Sukhothai is most comfortable during the cooler weather of Nov-Feb.

By plane
Bangkok Airways has daily flights from Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK) to Sukhothai Airport (THS), which then continue on to Lampang (LPT). Fares from Bangkok start from 1,700 baht (1 hour 20 minutes), from/to Lampang: from 1,100 baht (around 40 minutes).

Air Asia has daily flights from Bangkok Don Mueang Airport (DMK) to Phitsanulok airport (PHS). You can book a combined ticket with Air Asia to travel from DMK to Sukhothai. This consists of the flight (1 hour), transfer to ground transport (30 minutes) then the road trip Tharaburi Resort in Sukhothai (1 hour 40 minutes).

By train
Take the (express) train (7 hr from Bangkok or Chiang Mai) to Phitsanulok and go by bus from there (1 hour). A tuk-tuk to the bus station costs 60 baht.

By bus
Sukhothai only has a small bus station, but the old and new city can be easily reached from all points. The bus station is out of town and should cost you 50-60 baht to get into town by tuk-tuk (40 mototaxi). From the new city bus station it costs 15 baht via the local shuttle to reach the new city center.

From Bangkok
There are direct buses from Bangkok Mo Chit Terminal (at least hourly 07:00-13:30, some in the afternoon, every 30 min 20:00-22:30, see schedule). The journey takes 7-10 hr, including some stops at bus terminals of major cities on the way.

First class air-con buses are operated by Wintour Travel (378 THB) and Phitsanulok Yanyon Tour (from 328 THB).

From Chiang Mai
Buses from the main bus terminal take about 4 hours. The cheaper 2nd class buses make many stops and take about 5 hours and a half (Wintour: 195 baht as of May 2017).

From Mae Sot
Minibuses run regularly from the station behind the market. The journey takes about 3 hours, passing through Tak on the way. 130 baht.

From Phitsanulok
Be clear about whether you want Old Sukhothai or New Sukhothai as there are buses to both (and they don't go to both destinations).

Air conditioned buses operate approximately every hour from the main (No 1) bus terminal 06:00–18:00 and take about 1 hour for the 58-km trip. These can be crowded or virtually empty. 39 baht.

Minivan from main (No 1) bus terminal stops in both New Sukhothai bus terminal and in Old Sukhothai just outside Ramkhamhaeng National Museum. 100 baht to Old Sukhothai (2023).

If you're feeling rich you can get a direct tuk-tuk. It costs 1,000 baht from the train station (one of the fixed prices posted on a sign in front of the station).

Get around
It's an easy 15-minute walk from the into New Sukothai town along a dirt path in front of the bus station (although the tuk tuk drivers will tell you that it is not possible to walk). To find it, exit the front of the station and walk straight (west) for a few meters until you reach the shops in front of the station. There will be the  leading off to your left (south) that passes by some fields and houses. Follow the path for 350 m and you will hit a concrete road; continue straight along this road for another 320 m, where you will reach "No. 4 Guesthouse". Turn right and after 200 m you will hit Jarodvithi Thong (Charodwithitong), the main street with many guesthouses.

Tuk-tuks will try to get 600 baht out of you for a trip to the Old City (main ruins) some 15 km out of town. The correct price is 300 baht and this is for at least a couple of hours. When you have seen the part you are at and want to move further in the same area, the driver takes you there. 600 baht is a fair price for a full day.

Scooters can be rented from Chopper on Prewet Nahkon Alley, just behind near the bridge of New Sukhothai. The bikes are pretty new and well maintained. Rates are 60 baht for 1 hr, 250 baht for the day (return at 20:30), 300 baht for 24 hr.

Purple #1 songthaews run the length of Charodwithitong Rd and also serve the bus station. Without the shortcut, the trip is 3 km and should cost 10 THB.

Songthaews to Old City
Large blue songthaews to Old Sukhothai leave from the Bus Station (look for the "Market - Old City" bus stand) and well recognisable roadside on Charodwithitong Rd, approximately opposite of a 7-Eleven (there is a bus stop sign), about 200 m west of the bridge. They stop right outside the entrance to the central zone of the historic park. These songthaews also have a stop (bell ring) button installed above seats, you can press it to let the driver know that you want to be dropped off earlier. Fare is 30 baht (as of March 2024, painted on a board on the bus).

On the return blue Songthaew trip tell/check with the driver where you want to get off as some drivers ”adapt” their route.

See
Sukhothai Historical Park (Thai: อุทยานประวัติศาสตร์สุโขทัย) (14 km to the west of New Sukhothai). This was the capital of the Sukhothai Kingdom from 1238 to 1438 and contains many ruins from that period. Its importance has been internationally recognised and it is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The old city is a popular tourist attraction, and the site has seen much restoration since the 1960s. It is well maintained, exceptionally clean and well furnished with vendors, though with only a minimum of touts. The heavy restoration is worth noting, since with some ruins and Buddha figures it can lead to a feeling that it is a little over-sanitised, especially in the central zone. The other zones are much less "restored" and trips down unmarked tracks can lead to ruins in their untouched state.

The whole site covers an area of approximately 70 km2 (~27 square miles) and contains 193 ruins. The park is divided into 5 zones namely: Central, Eastern, Southern, Western and Northern Zones. The central zone contains the majority of the ruins and a museum. Maps are free at the ticket office. Every zone has an entrance fee of 100 baht each, but the combined ticket for all the zones is not available anymore as of January 2020. Admission to each of the zones is 100 baht for Westerners and 20 baht for Thais. Vehicles cost extra, bicycles 10 baht, motorbikes 30 baht. The park is open daily from 06:30 to 19:30 (21:00 on Saturdays).

It is feasible to walk around the central and northern zones in 6 hours or so. There is also a 60-baht guided tour by electric tram available. The best way, however, to see the ruins is by bicycle. These can be rented from a shop opposite from the main park entrance.

The best time to see the ruins is mornings when it's a little cooler and before the buses arrive, at noon when they have lunch, or after 16:00.

Also, if photographs are important, remember most Buddhist temples face east designed to be approached from the east so after midday you are more likely to be taking pictures into the sun.

Some review sites have reviews of the different temples where the reviewer has got muddled and is clearly not writing about the same temple the review is for. You would not be aware of this until after visiting the temple or not aware at all if you skip the temple. Use caution with such reviews.

Sukhothai Historical Park (Central Zone)
The Central Zone of the Sukhothai Historical Park contains about 22 monuments enclosed inside a rectangular walled complex. The north and south walls are 2000 m long while those on east and west measure 1600 m. The walls are punctured by four gateways on each of the four sides. ,, , The East Gate (Kamphaeng Hak Gate) is the most accessible of the four gates. The central zone of the Sukhothai Historical Park contains several other monuments of lesser importance ,,, and .

Sukhothai Historical Park (North Zone)
Located on the northern side of the central zone this zone contains about 10 scattered monuments out of which Wat Phra Phai Luang and Wat Si Chum are the most visited. The northern zone of the Sukhothai Historical Park contains several other monuments of lesser importance ,, and

Sukhothai Historical Park (West Zone)
Located west of the central zone and is approachable by the Or Gate it contains more than a dozen monuments scattered over a large undulating area. The wooded foothills were thought to offer an ideal spot to practice the Buddhist way of life and open the mind to dhamma. Entrance 100 Baht, they may not check for tickets if entering from the OR gate side (cycling clockwise from Central Zone) The western zone of the Sukhothai Historical Park contains several other monuments of lesser importance ,, , and

Sukhothai Historical Park (South Zone)
Unlike the northern and western zone the southern zone is more compact and has lesser number of monuments. The southern zone of the Sukhothai Historical Park contains couple other monuments of lesser importance

and

Sukhothai Historical Park (East Zone)
Like the south zone the east zone also contains a handful of monuments. The monuments are scattered along the road leading to the Kamphaeng Hak Gate (East Gate) of Sukhothai Historical Park. The eastern zone of the Sukhothai Historical Park contains couple other monuments of lesser importance.

and

Outside Sukhothai Historic Park









 * Central Zone: It contains 11 ruins in 3 km2, interspersed with moats, lakes and bridges to some island-bound ruins. Mat Mahathat is one of the most spectacular, with a large seated Buddha figure set amid the pillars of a now-ruined sala, and a central chedi flanked by two standing Buddha figures. Wat Sra Sri also has a large chedi and Buddha figure, but is reached by a bridge to the island. There are some nice views from the other side of the lake.
 * West zone The West zone is a hilly and forested area that contains over a dozen little visited monuments. The area is west of the walled old town between the road to Tak (Route 12) and the road through the Or gate in the ancient Western city wall. Spread out over an area of several kilometers, it contains mostly small monuments in the forest and on hill tops, most of them a single stupa or other structure. In the days of the Sukhothai empire the area was known as Aranyika. Monks studied the Tripitaka and practised meditation in forest temples. An ancient stone inscription mentions that Ramkhamhaeng, the third King of Sukhothai, visited the area regularly to pay his respects to a Buddha image, believed to be the standing Buddha image of the Wat Saphan Hin.
 * North zone Wat Phra Phai Luang contains the remains of a number of buildings plus a large prang with stucco reliefs. More impressive is Wat Sri Chum, which contains a massive seated Buddha figure peering through an opening in its enclosure. Look for a stairway on the left as you enter the enclosure; it leads up and behind the Buddha image, though the passage is not always open. Only if you want to have a close look for Wat Phra Phai Luang you need to pay.
 * West zone The West zone is a hilly and forested area that contains over a dozen little visited monuments. The area is west of the walled old town between the road to Tak (Route 12) and the road through the Or gate in the ancient Western city wall. Spread out over an area of several kilometers, it contains mostly small monuments in the forest and on hill tops, most of them a single stupa or other structure. In the days of the Sukhothai empire the area was known as Aranyika. Monks studied the Tripitaka and practised meditation in forest temples. An ancient stone inscription mentions that Ramkhamhaeng, the third King of Sukhothai, visited the area regularly to pay his respects to a Buddha image, believed to be the standing Buddha image of the Wat Saphan Hin.
 * North zone Wat Phra Phai Luang contains the remains of a number of buildings plus a large prang with stucco reliefs. More impressive is Wat Sri Chum, which contains a massive seated Buddha figure peering through an opening in its enclosure. Look for a stairway on the left as you enter the enclosure; it leads up and behind the Buddha image, though the passage is not always open. Only if you want to have a close look for Wat Phra Phai Luang you need to pay.

Festivals
Phor Khun Ramkhamhaeng's Day Festival (or King Ramkhamhaeng the Great Memorial Fair (งานวันพ่อขุนรามคำแหงมหาราช) Phor Khun Ramkhamhaeng's Day Festival, annually held on January 17. It honors of the Great King of Sukhothai Kingdom. In this day, people will visit the Monument of Phor Khun Ramkamhaeng the Great for praising Phor Khun Ramkhamhaeng. People will make merit and present food to a Buddhist priest. At night, there is merrymaking and many shows that all people can enjoy. There are fireworks, too.

Song Nam Aui Than Festival Song Nam Aui Than Festival is annually held on 12 April, Songkran Ceremony in the SriSathanalai Historical Park. It exhibits the Buddha image procession from Wat Phra Prang to the Historical Park for people who want to pour the water over the Buddha image.

Si Sachanalai Ordination Celebration Si Sachanalai Ordination Festival is called by Thais as "Buat Chang Hat Siao", held annually during 7–8 April at Ban Hat Sieo, Si Sachanalai District. It features a spectacular procession of ordination candidates in colourful costumes on the backs of some 20-30 decorated elephants.

Sukhothai Loi Krathong and Candle Festival The tradition which was founded in Sukhothai on the banks of the Yom River several hundred years ago derived from traditional Tai beliefs common to communities living along the banks of a river or waterway. It has become a need to worship and supplicate the Khongkla to avoid bad luck, to worship the gods in the Brahmin tradition, or to revere the Buddha's footprint. The celebrations are normally held in November. Sukhothai's Loi Krathong is held annually on the full moon night of the 12th lunar month at the Sukhothai Historical Park. The Krathongs, or floats, have been made in the form of lotus. There is also a reference, in the Sila Charuek, to candle lighting and playing with firework in a grand festival believed to be similar to the candle lighting and firework as practiced in the current Loi Krathong Festival. In this festival, there are Nang Nopphamat procession, exhibitions, lighting of lantern at the historical site, Loi Krathong, fireworks over all waterways, and a Krathong competition.

Phra Mae Ya Homage Paying Fair and Sukhothai Red Cross Fair (งานสักการะพระแม่ย่าและงานกาชาดจังหวัดสุโขทัย) This is held at the beginning of February every year around the Sukhothai City Hall, Nirakasem Road, Tambon Thani. A procession paying homage to Phra Mae Ya, a local sports competition, an exhibition, a local handicraft demonstration and entertainment, are held.

Si Satchanalai Elephant Back Ordination Procession (ประเพณีบวชพระแห่นาคด้วยช้างของชาวหาดเสี้ยว) A traditional ceremony of the Thai Phuan, citizens of Ban Hat Siao, Si Satchanalai Elephant Back Ordination Procession or Buat Chang is held annually during 7–8 April at Ban Hat Siao, Si Satchanalai District. The 7th is the crux of the event, when a procession takes place. On the 8th features a spectacular procession of ordination candidates in colourful costumes on the backs of some 20-30 decorated elephants. The ordination ceremony includes head shaving, bathing, and dressing up candidates, as well as, elephants. The procession is held around the village and the Si Satchanalai District Office.

Songkran and Mueang Sawankhalok Festival (งานประเพณีสงกรานต์และเทศกาลเมืองสวรรคโลก) This takes place during 11–15 April annually on the bank of the Yom River, in front of Wat Sawang Arom, by the Yom River, and at the Stadium of the Sawankhalok Municipal School. The procession of Miss Songkran, the Sawankhalok Food Festival, ceremonies of giving alms to monks and bathing rituals for Buddha images and monks are performed in the festival.

Songkran Festival (งานประเพณีสรงน้ำโอยทาน สงกรานต์ศรีสัชนาลัย) An annual celebration of the Thai New Year is held during 12–13 April at Si Satchanalai Historical Park, Si Satchanalai District; this festival carries forward Sukhothai's tradition. It was mentioned in the famous stone inscription “The Sukhothai people are generous, abide by precepts, and always give charity”, which is believed to be inscribed during the reign of King Ramkhamhaeng the Great of the Sukhothai Kingdom. The highlights of the event include the elephant procession, offering rituals to pay respect to Phra Suea Mueang, the tutelary spirit and kings from the Phra Ruang Dynasty, Miss Songkran beauty queen contest, local sport competitions, and cultural performances.

Hae Nam Khuen Hong Festival (งานประเพณีแห่น้ำขึ้นโฮง) This is organized annually during 18 – 19 April at the plaza of Chaopho Mueang Dong Monument, Tambon Ban Tuek, Si Satchanalai District. The ceremony is held to honour “Muen Nakhon” or “Chaopho Mueang Dong”, the establisher of Dong City. He was talented and courageous, as well as specialized in catching elephants and utilising them in war. Later, he was executed to prove his loyalty to King Tilokkarat. Then, the villagers organized a ceremony to pay homage to Chaopho Mueang Dong by preparing a more-than-50-elephant parade wonderfully decorated, passing the village to pay respect to the shrine of Chaopho Khao Mung and onward to the plaza of Chaopho Mueang Dong Monument to pay homage to Chaopho Mueang Dong.

Khao Luang Winning Day (งานวันพิชิตยอดเขาหลวง) This is a yearly event that Sukhothai province has organized for tourists and the local people to climb up to the summit of Khao Luang in the Ramkhamhaeng National Park, Khiri Mat District. The event is held around November every year.

Do

 * Rent a bike and explore the ruins of Old Sukhothai (walking will kill you).
 * Visit the park at sunrise and admire the Buddha figures in the orange glow of the morning sun.
 * Pay a visit to the ruins at Si Satchanalai Historic Park, 55km from New Sukhothai. Few tourists, great sites, quiet. Bike rental at entrance.
 * Cycling Route along the Orchards Some visitors enjoy cycling around the orchards and tasting a variety of fruits like pomelo, santol, sapodilla, coconut, star fruit, various kinds of bananas, as well as the tasty and fleshy plum mango (Bouae Macrophylla) with its chicken-egged size.
 * Cycling Tambon Ban Tuek Community of Si Satchanalai District. This is a small and peaceful community filled with trees, paddy fields, and scenic mountain ranges, while tourists can enjoy the traditional life of fruit growers. Different types of fruits grown along the hilly terrain include longkong, langsat, mangosteen, durian, banana, pomelo, rambeh, and rambutan.



Buy



 * Khanom Kliao (ขนมเกลียว) Snacks of Sukhothai made from wheat flour and egg, seasoned with salt and pepper, and made it into a twist shaped-dough. Fried until crispy and further glacé. It has a sweet taste and is available everywhere.
 * Sangkhalok ceramics (เครื่องสังคโลก) These replicas arguably look as good as the originals.
 * Thung Luang terra cotta (เครื่องปั้นดินเผา) of Khiri Mat District come in unique patterns. The products include flower pots, vases, basin, water jar, lamps, with perforated decorations of animal figures like frogs, bullfrogs, and dogs.
 * Butter-baked Banana (กล้วยอบเนย) A well-known snack of Khiri Mat District, it resembles another local sweet called Khanom Rang Nok made from sweet potato. This butter-baked banana snack is made from slicing raw banana horizontally, left to dry for half a day, seasoned with salt, deep fried, adding sugar, and giving it a good stir. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and add butter. This product is available everywhere.
 * Local Snacks: Khanom Phing, Thong Muan, Thong Phap, Thong Tan (ขนมผิง ทองม้วน ทองพับ และทองตัน) Famous crispy snacks of various shapes: square, round tube, and thick roll.
 * Fried peanuts (ถั่วทอด) of Si Samrong District, also called "200-year fried peanuts", are a tribute to a technique which has been inherited for many generations. The recipe is a mixture of rice flour, wheat flour, eggs, coconut milk, salt, pepper, chopped wild yam, which are then deep fried.
 * Ancient gold reproductions (ทองโบราณ) of Si Satchanalai District are entirely hand-made by skilled workers. These replicas of the Sukhothai style products include necklaces, wristlets, bangles, earrings, rings, etc.
 * Ancient silver reproductions (เงินโบราณ) These replicas are entirely hand-made with distinctive skill. They are available at all silver shops in Si Satchanalai District.
 * Hat Siao fabric (ผ้าหาดเสี้ยว) comes with nine beautiful patterns woven with the use of a supplementary weft technique, done by the descendants of Thai Phuan, who migrated from the north of Vientiane in Laos.
 * Marble products (ผลิตภัณฑ์หินอ่อน) The marble products from Amphoe Thung Saliam - Thoen include tables, chairs, flower pots and alarm clocks.

Eat
Sukhothai has its very own specialty noodle dish simply called Sukhothai noodles. They are a blend of Thai rice noodles (khanom chin) mixed with crispy pork, garlic, green beans, coriander, chili, and peanuts in a broth flavored with dark soy sauce.

New Sukothai












Mid-range


















Medical
Sukhothai town has one main government hospital,. Another large government hospital called Srisangworn Sukhothai Hospital, is in Si Samrong District, 22 kilometers distant. Ruam Phaet Sukhothai Hospital is the only private hospital in the province and is across from Sukhothai Hospital.

Go next

 * Kamphaeng Phet — historic town
 * Si Satchanalai — Sukhothai's twin city
 * Bangkok Despite two large signs detailing​ explicitly the bus schedule with class and prices, 3 different bus compagnies (WinTour, Transport and another one) explained us that no 2nd class buses are running anymore. Only 1st class and VIP buses. They claimed that the sign was wrong, then that it was old, until finally somebody said that ALL the 2nd class buses are broken down! It seems tourists are now charged first class prices (310 baht) vs economy class (240 bath) - at least I did. Each companies have buses running every hour. The ride takes 7-8h depending on the traffic and stop multiple times until Mo Chit 2 (Chatuchak) in Bangkok. Or minivan to Phitsanulok and train to Bangkok.
 * Chiang Mai For 230bht from the bus station you can take a bus. First in the morning is 6h30.
 * Mae Sot to the Myanmar border. Minibuses leave the Sukhothai Bus Station 09:15, 10:15,14:15 & 16:15 (3½hr travel time) ฿196 (Jan 2020)
 * Ayutthaya there are government buses at 13h, 15h and 18h