Sucre

Sucre is a city in Chuquisaca Department, Bolivia. It is the official capital of the country, though most of the government is based in La Paz. Its center is a UNESCO world heritage site, and it is a pretty city with welcoming people and a peaceful atmosphere.

Understand


Famed throughout Bolivia for its pretty, well-kept centre, and for its agreeable climate, la ciudad blanca ("the white city") is probably the most tranquil city in Bolivia (or perhaps South America). While it offers specific attractions in the form of historic buildings and renowned theatre as well as indigenous culture and prehistoric sites in the surrounding towns and countryside, the highlight of Sucre might be its relaxed atmosphere, which detains many travellers for far longer than expected.

Sucre's history has always been closely tied to that of Potosí. The city rose to prominence as an attractive retreat for wealthy and influential figures connected with Potosí's silver mines. Although Sucre can be considered a "colonial" city, its architecture is more an example of later, neo-classical style. The dishevelled, crooked streets of Potosí better reflect the chaotic urban planning of early colonialism and the silver rush, while orderly, elegant Sucre is a result of the wealth later spawned by the silver trade. Sucre’s original name, Ciudad de la Plata de la Nueva Toledo (city of the silver of New Toledo) reflects the huge significance silver played in the city’s development.

Climate
Sucre's climate is categorized as a subtropical highland climate. The city is in the tropics and the temperature is fairly stable throughout the year, average daytime highs are usually around and average nighttime lows are around, but temperatures have risen above  or dropped below freezing in almost all months. November to March are the rainiest months. May to August see virtually no rain at all, though this is also the coldest time of the year.

History
In the mid-16th century, the Spanish King Philip II established an Audiencia in Sucre with a jurisdiction covering what was then known as Upper Peru, that is, the land south and east of Cusco and encompassing what is today Bolivia, Paraguay, northern Chile and Argentina. Although the Audiencia conferred a degree of autonomy on Sucre, it was still a subdivision of the Viceroyalty of Peru. In the early 17th century Sucre grew, with the founding of a bishopric, as well as monasteries belonging to various religious orders. Sucre is still a centre for the Catholic church in Bolivia.

In 1624 St Francis Xavier College of Chuquisaca was founded in the city. This university is still operating, and is considered one of the finest in the country, and is the second oldest university in the Americas. Sucre’s football team in the Bolivian league is Universitario, and originates from St. Francis Xavier College.

Sucre has long been known as a centre for progressive thought, and in 1809 it was from here that one of the first independence movements in South America began. Despite this, Bolivia was one of the last South American countries to gain independence, in 1825. When independence was established in Bolivia, Sucre became the capital of the new nation.

As the silver industry waned in importance, power shifted from Sucre to La Paz, and at the end of the nineteenth century the seat of Bolivian government was moved to La Paz. Sucre remains the constitutional capital of Bolivia, but only the judicial branch of government is based here. This remains a contentious issue for Sucreños.

Sucre became a more conservative city as the old wealth and power of the city was threatened by the Evo Morales government and its plans for reform and wealth redistribution. During the 2009 referendum, Sucre voted emphatically against Morales' proposed new constitution. Morales remains a very unpopular figure in the city, and the city has suffered from sporadic outbursts of protest since his election in 2005, occasionally accompanied by racial violence against the poor indigenous and rural people who voted for him.

By bus


The times and destination for buses to and from Sucre are as follows, and when it comes to ticket prices expect considerable bargains if you show up short notice. However, many companies sell only cama tickets, so if you want to travel cheap (semi-cama), maybe 3 hr before would be better. All origins/destinations but Potosí are overnight rides.


 * Potosí – There are hourly connections that take 3-4 hr. You can also take a shared taxi, it will take about 2½-3 hr and the driver will go very very fast.


 * La Paz – 12 hr
 * Oruro
 * Santa Cruz – 14 hr and buses pass through Samaipata.
 * Cochabamba – It is 8-10 hr hours by bus. Buses only leave in the afternoons and evenings, with the last bus typically leaving between 21:00 and 22:00. Much of this road is unpaved, and it can be a quite uncomfortable and cold ride.
 * Tupiza – Leaves at 22:00 from Tupiza.
 * Tarija
 * Villazon – 9 hr.
 * Uyuni – Leaves at 22:00 from Uyuni. 7-8 hr.

The roads out of Sucre are fairly rough, with the exception of the road to Potosí, which you also take to reach Oruro or La Paz. For this reason think hard about upgrading to a semi-cama or full cama bus. The overnight normal bus to Cochabamba is definitely not fun.

Tickets generally only go on sale the day that the bus will depart (although El Dorado will sell you a ticket the day before), so to be sure of getting a seat you need to arrive at the terminal before midday. However, if you are flexible, you can also arrive a few hours or an hour before and can get great bargains, e.g. semi-cama for La Paz for Bs. 50&mdash;see the country article. Many tour agencies will offer to book tickets ahead for you, but understand that this is not how things are normally done in Sucre, so expect to pay more, and make sure you check whether you need to redeem the ticket from the agency for a ticket from the bus line. If buying at the terminal itself, make sure to go to the operator's office inside the terminal - the touts in the car park outside are usually genuine, but have been known to "double sell" seats.

Whichever route you take or level of bus you opt for, do not expect to find a toilet on board unless you travel with the most expensive operators. Ask to make sure in any case. Do expect the bus to stop in the middle of the night somewhere close to a cheese vendor, and to see half of the male passengers lined up to relieve themselves against a convenient wall.

Blockades around Sucre and to nearby towns and cities are not uncommon, so ask whether the road is open or blocked before buying a ticket.

Get around
Some of the attractions outside of Sucre, such as Tarabuco market and the dinosaur footprints, can be visited by guided tour, tourist bus or public transport.

On foot and navigation
Sucre is a small city and the center is very walkable. For the most part, you won't need to move more than five blocks from Plaza 25 de Mayo, the main square.

Outside of the city there are many hiking and walking opportunities, as explained below. For reliable trails and GPS navigation in this region, consult OpenStreetMap, which is used by many mobile Apps like OsmAnd or Mapy.cz. Or just download the according GPX or KML files through Waymarked Trails for such trails on OpenStreetMap. (Note, you just need to change the OpenStreetMap relation ID to download the GPX or KML files through the same link.)

By taxi
Sucre has plentiful taxis. Within the centre do not pay more than 5Bs pp.

By micro
Sucre has small buses (micros, really not much bigger than vans) that run set routes. They don't have actual stops, so just flag them down whenever and let the driver know when you're ready to get off. The fare is Bs. 1.50 (2023), which you pay to the driver. Micros run frequently and can sometimes be very crowded&mdash;don't be surprised to see someone hanging out the door.

See
The historical parts of Sucre were listed as a in 1991.







Do
Sucre is generally known as a great city to kick back in. It is a popular place for people to study Spanish or volunteer, and many who visit end up staying for far longer than expected. While the city centre can be seen in a day (add another day or two if you like museums, churches, cafes, or moving slowly), the surrounding countryside is rich in other attractions, from traditional villages to dinosaur footprints to trekking through the mountains of the Cordillera de las Frailes.









Beyond the center
Offered by many companies as a tour, but can also organised independently with a proper map. Buy food and water beforehand. You may want to take some chlorine pills to purify some water on the way. Take the minivan to Potolo (ask people in Sucre for the proper place to catch such a minivan; Bs. 12; a breathtaking ride), and get of at the chapel (ask the driver for "Chataquila" or "camino del Inca"). Start following the inka trail from Capilla de Chataquila. When down (Chaunaca; lady takes Bs. 10 for the community), turn left and follow the river (don't cross the river yet). Further (where you see trees, church, some houses), cross the river over suspension bridge (Puente en el camino al Maragua; the lady takes Bs. 10 for the community), then hike up to Maragua (a waterfall and some water spots on the way). Here you could stay overnight, or you choose the camping site right at the beginning, depending on when you start the trek. From Maragua down to the dinosour footprints, from where you continue further to Potolo (2nd night?). From Potolo there are regular buses back to Sucre. Alternatively, you can continue from Potolo into the valley for another half day hiking. Yet another alternative is to walk the main way from Maragua (start early - 07:00 or 07:30), through the other village in the crater, Irupampa, out of the crater, and all until you join a bigger road in the village of Quila Quila, take the road left, but wait there until some 12:00 to catch a truck back to Sucre (it's really a long way), or catch some other car. Along the trail there are many sightseeing points, and you can do some side tours to rupestrian paintings or the Salar de Chullpas. Check out the downloadable trail and waypoints in the following. Details:
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 * content=One of the most popular destinations outside of Sucre is Maragua crater, a region of unusual rock formations. The crater is not volcanic (contrary to what some say), but was formed by erosion. Fossils of marine shells are still found in the region and sold by local children. There can be nice children on the way, who may ask for some gift, so buy some pens, notebooks, dried fruits, or nuts in Sucre (no sweets please, people may not have access to dentist service)—you'll like making these children happier. It is possible to spend a night in Maragua village inside the crater (i.e. Bs. 60 a night)—ask local people, other tourists, or local kids will organize you a place. Conditions are basic but the experience unique. Simple meals are available too.