Subotica

Subotica is a city in the very north of Vojvodina in northern Serbia. The city is well known for its many great examples of Hungarian architecture (mostly secessionist style, a type of Art Nouveau; late 19th to early 20th century, but also other styles), and a lively student scene, as well as many festivals of various types. The city is multicultural (Hungarian/Serbian/Croatian) and thus has a unique flavor of culture. In its vicinity are the lake and lakeside town Palić, popular among tourists from the region.

Understand


Subotica reached its golden period during the beginning of the 20th century, when the majority of its monumental buildings were built. It was a very important centre of wealth, influence and culture. It was the third largest city in the Kingdom of Hungary and subsequently the third largest city in the newly formed Kingdom of Yugoslavia (after Belgrade and Zagreb). As chance would have, having become a border-city its population growth stopped and stagnated at the same number ever since, and now it's only the second largest city in Vojvodina (after Novi Sad) and fifth in Serbia. Because of this, today, Subotica is not a huge city population-wise, and is free of the typical congestion and concrete-jungle feel of bigger cities, but it still nonetheless has a disproportionate amount of beauty to offer and a relaxed pleasant atmosphere. One of the things that hasn't changed over the decades though is its multicultural nature (1/3 Hungarian, 1/3 Serbian, 1/3 Croatian, though the city's Jews were murdered during the Nazi occupation and its Germans mostly left after World War II), with all the benefits that come with it, among them a unique and vibrant culture.

Talk
There are two languages in everyday use in Subotica: Serbo-Croatian and Hungarian. The former is spoken by nearly everyone, while the latter is spoken natively by ethnic Hungarians who make up around 35% of the city's population and is also understood/spoken by many others to varying degrees. When it comes to global languages most younger people speak at least some English (many are fluent), but when it comes to older generations (60 and over) German is more useful. Your best bet with middle-aged people is also English (don't expect fluency).

By plane
Subotica doesn't have an intercity airport. The nearest airports are in Belgrade (about 180 km away), Budapest (200 km), and less recommended in Timisoara (160 km, but requires more time to drive from there).

By train
Subotica is on the line between Belgrade, Novi Sad and Budapest. Additionally, there are regional trains from Szeged across the border in Hungary. Timetables can be checked at the operator Serbian Railways.



By bus
Buses are also an option when travelling from some nearby large cities like Novi Sad, Belgrade, Budapest, Zagreb, Szeged or Sombor. They are usually more expensive but are also, more often than not, faster than most local trains, and thus can be recommended, unless you want to experience the more unique domestic experience. Online timetable.

By car
A1 motorway (E75), Serbia's longest and most important road, passes through the city limits, if you prefer travel by car. For calculating travel times by car you can use this site.

Get around
Most of the city's important sights are more or less within walking distance of each other (which is also the best mode of travel through the city for appreciating the architecture and atmosphere).

The city bus timetables are available here. A single ticket costs RSD95. In a "double-bus" you buy the tickets at the back, in a "single-bus" you buy them at the front, from the driver (or just follow the crowd if there are other people). In case you decide you need a cab (to see some stuff on the other site of town for example) there are taxi stations in many locations, but the easiest places to find for a tourist are probably next to the Town Hall and next to the train station. Taxis are not overly expensive by Western standards. Make sure the meter is on.

If you're in shape you can rent one of the 56 bikes available in 4 parking-points.

Lake town Palić is accessible by public transport: bus #6 stops at the near Hotel Patria in the city center.

See
Subotica's beautiful town hall is surrounded with a number of pedestrian-only streets where people gather and meet, especially in the evening, giving the town a Mediterranean feel. The water-fountains and cafes in the center of the town are a great spot for people watching. The townhouse itself is lit up at night with spotlights that highlight the beauty of the building. It's also surrounded by a small park (the city center is generally rich with vegetation and trees) in which one of the two big fountains is located. There are several galleries. A tour through the Town Hall is also worth doing. There are also many beautiful religious buildings worth seeing.

Do
The town comes alive at night. The street Matija Korvina (off the main pedestrian street Korzo) seems like the most happening, with a number of popular bars and restaurants (Boss, Stara, Beer&Co).

In the summer there are many festivals of music, film, food, and any other excuse creative people can find.

8 km to the east is Palić, an idyllic lakeside town of 6,000 people. The parks surrounding the lake are popular with tourists from the region. There's also a very green and well kept Zoo located in the parks (by all accounts the best in Serbia).

There's also a big traditional horse farm/stables/range near Kelebija (a couple of kilometers from Subotica) for those interested in experiencing and ridding in traditional horse carriages.

Buy
There are many large supermarkets scattered around the city. There's also a large mall located in a street off the main square. For a more unique experience visit the city's main large market about 2 km west of the center called Buvljak or Ocskapiac (meaning flea market), where a morning can be gone in a flash.

Eat


The local dishes are definitely worth seeking out, as they are done really well and are quite cheap as well.

The region's famous fast-food is Burek. It is a pastry with various fillings like cheese, mince, mushroom, etc. It costs about RSD100, a bit more with (tekući) jogurt (a liquid form of savory yogurt). Most bakeries will have it, as well as specialized shops where it is made in front of you. An experience not to be missed!

Some other domestic fast-foods are pljeskavica (roughly pronounced as plyeskaveetsa; basically a kind of Serbian hamburger) and palačinke (palachinkeh; European pancakes/crêpes filled with either savory or sweet stuffing, folded in fat/wide rectangles). The savory filling can be chicken, vegetables and sour cream or cooked minced meat plus cream and bolognese sauce. Sweet versions can be had with Nutella, whipped cream and cookie crumbs. There are "to-go/in-hand" fast-food variants and also restaurant variants.

Also worth seeking out is ćevapi (chevapi), small skinless sausages served in a flat bread called "lepinja".

Grilled or barbecued meats are also a tradition, so they are done masterfully. Look for places displaying the sign Roštilj.

Also don't leave the city without trying gulaš and paprikaš (traditionally Hungarian, and just generally local, types of meat stews) popular among the locals.



Drink
Since the region grows a lot of fruit, a lot of households make schnaps (Rakija) from the various stone fruit, apples, pears, grapes, etc. grown locally. Try to find some that was made for own consumption (and not for sale) for the best quality!

Another local specialty is a bitter herbal liqueur called Gorki List (various knock-offs are called Pelinkovac, as they are all made from the herb called Pelin, but this is the real deal). It aids digestion, so drink it some time before the meal. There are also traditional wineries near the city if you prefer wine.

Go next

 * If you haven't already included it in your Subotica visit go check out the nearby lake and lake-town Palić.
 * Otherwise take Bus n.1 (in front of the train station) to Kelebija Granica (the Hungarian border). From the border you can walk to Tompa Bus station and take buses from there to Szeged, Pécs (via Baja), and Kiskunhalas.
 * Due south is Novi Sad and Sombor, if you plan to stay within Serbia.