Stung Treng

Stung Treng (also Stoeng Treng, Khmer: ស្ទឹងត្រែង) is a small town in northeastern Cambodia, and can easily be described with the word "outpost" more than anything else. Many tourists heading to/from Laos pass through here, though few stay long as Banlung and Kratie offer far more excitement, activities and remedies.

By boat
Fast boats used to be the best way to get here, but Chinese money has made the roads a joy compared to their old state. Regular boat services north and south no longer run, though small speedboats can be chartered for trips to non-standard destinations.

By road
Hwy 7 to Kratie is fully paved, but heading north to the border with Laos it's in very bad condition (as of June 2019), alternating between stretches of pavement, stretches of gravel, and stretches of bumpy former pavement.

It's no problem to do the trip by bus/minibus in either direction. Every guesthouse will sell you a ticket. It can be quiet difficult to get public transport directly at the border, so it's worth considering buying a ticket to your final destination. The minibus to the border takes about 1½hr, while it's a 4- to 5-hr drive to Kratie (much more in the rainy season). Minibus drivers have been known to abandon their passengers at the border crossing at Dom Kralor.

The daily bus from Phnom Penh to Laos passes the town in the afternoon and is the safest option to get to Laos.

Travelling by truck from Kratie is also an option, and will cost 20–25,000 riel for riding in the back of the truck, and 25–30,000 riel to ride in the cabin. It is somewhat less safe than other modes of transport, and can take much longer, but puts you in much greater direct contact with the locals.

A new bridge was completed in August 2014 to the west side of the river. The road to Preah Vihear / Anlong Veng is unsealed for the road 64 part. After that it's very nicely sealed all the way. Be warned there are long stretches without gasoline so top up frequently.

Get around
Since the town is so small, there's no point in using anything other than your own two feet to get you anywhere within the town itself. If you decide to see any of the area's limited sights, simply hire one of the few motodops around for no more than a couple of thousand riel.

See
Most tourists who end up here do so only for a couple of hours before rushing south to Kratie or north to the Laos border. Like anywhere in Cambodia, you could easily spend a day here relaxing by the river, but don't plan on a week. There are a couple of sights to see here, but not enough to seriously keep yourself occupied.

The only meaningful sight in Stung Treng is watching the sun set and rise over the landscape. Great for lounging in a hammock, bottle of Angkor Beer in hand, lazily chatting with your compadres.

Do
Stung Treng Province is a beautiful place with some historical value as well. The Ramsar site to the north that connects to Laos is a real treat to explore and several (nearly extinct) Irrawaddy dolphin pools surround this charming provincial town. Furthermore, several NGOs such as Tourism for Help and Mlub Baitong are active in the region and welcome any kind of support from travellers where needed. The town links well to Banlung (Ratanakiri) and can be used for more than just a stopover. Hikes are available to see the 4,000 Islands area from the mountain top and the unique merging of 4 main rivers (also known as the Mekong plus 3 Area) makes the place for a great river exploration.

There exists a weaving co-operative towards the north end of town, which warrants a visit for the lovely fabrics and patterns they produce.



Sleep
Most cheap guesthouses can be found at the river front or the street just behind it. Expect to pay US$3 for a small room, however for a few dollars more the hotels below offer much better value for money.



Go next

 * Buses to Phnom Penh usually leave at 07:00. The exact departing place depends on the bus company but is somewhere in the town centre. You can normally get off in any place on the route. A ticket costs US$10–15 Phnom Penh, US$3 to Kratie (2½ hr).

Border crossing to Laos
Stung Treng is the last major town before the Nong Nok Khiene Border Crossing into Laos. Minibus from some other Cambodian cities that go to Laos (e.g. to 4000 Islands / Don Det or Pakse) thru this checkpoint usually change bus in this town, that is, passengers change into another van specifically going the Stung Treng -> Nong Nok Khiene border, where passegers cross the border into Laos on foot, then board a different, Laotian minibus to continue the rest of the journey.

At Stung Treng bus changeover (Lotus Leaf restaurant) they will try to persuade you to change Laotian Kips claiming Laos is a communist country and USD cannot be used and that there are no ATMs in many places (e.g. Don Det). This is untrue, do not fall for their lies and change money at heavily disadvantageous rates.

There is no scheduled public transport going only to the border, and even if you have a motorbike driver or a fast boat taking you there, you may have to walk on the Lao side to the village of Voeng Kham to find some form of transport (about 4 km from the border). Travelers on the public bus from Phnom Penh are collected at the border though.

Lao visa on arrival cost $40USD and require one standard passport/ID photo, no need to pay for middleman. As of 2024 June there is still an extra $2 USD "stamping fee" at Laos entry side which is not signposted, neither is receipt given, so this could be a corrupt practice. Nong Nok Khiene is not a busy border point.