St Andrews

St Andrews is a town on the coast of Fife in northeast Scotland. With a population of 16,930 in 2021, it's an attractive place famous for its ancient university and as the "home of golf".

Understand
St Andrews in medieval times was the ecclesiastical capital of Scotland, and its cathedral was the most important in the country. But from the 15th century there was religious turbulence: John Knox preached here, two other Lutheran preachers were burned as heretics, the cardinal was lynched as revenge and the cathedral and bishop's castle were wrecked.

The university was founded in 1413, making it the oldest in Scotland, and the third oldest in the English-speaking world. Today the university dominates the town, particularly during term-time. It is often perceived as being elitist: for instance, Prince William studied geography here and met Kate Middleton, who was studying history of art; they are now known as the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge.

St Andrews proclaims itself as the "home of golf". The game was invented in the Low Countries and adopted in Scotland in the Middle Ages, with the first rulebook written in Edinburgh in the 17th century. That game was played over entirely natural courses of no fixed length. The contribution of the Royal and Ancient here was to create a groomed or maintained course of 18 holes and codify the rules accordingly. The R&A thus co-hosts the game's worldwide ruling body and owns several golf courses, including the renowned Old Course. St Andrews is mobbed when a major tournament is in town, especially during the Dunhill Cup in October, and the Open Championship in July every five years.

By plane
Edinburgh Airport has the best selection of flights. From there take Stagecoach Bus Jet 747 to Inverkeithing in Fife to catch the hourly train to Leuchars and Dundee, or to Halbeath for the hourly bus. Otherwise take the tram or bus from the airport to Edinburgh Haymarket for trains or buses.

Glasgow Airport also has a good range of flights, and an hourly direct bus to St Andrews, see below.

Dundee Airport has flights from London Stansted by Loganair, twice a day M-F and once on Sunday. Apr-Oct they also fly from London City (LCY) and Belfast City (BHD).

By train

 * Wikivoyage has a guide to Rail travel in Great Britain

railway station is 6 miles west of town. This has two trains an hour from Edinburgh, taking an hour, and continuing to Dundee, Arbroath and Aberdeen. There are two direct daytime trains from London Kings Cross heading for Aberdeen, otherwise change in Edinburgh. The overnight Highland Sleeper from London Euston also calls here, but before 6AM; you might prefer to take the Lowland Sleeper to Edinburgh then a day train.

Stagecoach Bus 99 from Dundee takes 10 min between Leuchars station and St Andrews, see below. A combined train+bus ticket is slightly cheaper than separate fares.

A taxi from Leuchars costs £15 to the centre of St Andrews.

By bus
Stagecoach Fife Bus 99 runs 5:30AM-11PM from Dundee via Leuchars station to St Andrews; daytime it's every 10 min. There are night buses to 3AM on Friday and Saturday night.

Bus X59 runs hourly from Edinburgh St Andrew Square to St Andrews, taking just over 2 hours via Halbeath and Glenrothes, with the last bus at 5:50PM.

Bus X24 runs hourly from Glasgow Airport via Glasgow Buchanan station, Cumbernauld, Dunfermline, Halbeath and Glenrothes to St Andrews, taking 3 hr 30 min with the last bus at 6:20PM.

Bus 95 follows the coast south from St Andrews through Kingsbarns, Crail, Anstruther, Pittenweem, Elie, Upper Largo and Lower Largo to Leven. It runs hourly, daily.

is central, on City Road.

By road
By car from the south follow M90 over the Forth on Queen's Crossing (no toll) then A91 east to town.

National Bike Route 1 crosses the Forth by the old bridge, then meanders via Dunfermline, Kinross, Auchtermuchty, and along the lanes south of A91 into St Andrews. It continues north through Guardbridge and Leuchars to Dundee; then, if you're really up for it, to Aberdeen, Inverness, John O'Groats, Orkney and Shetland.

Get around
Walk. You might use bus 95 to reach Kingsbarns, or 99 for Guardbridge and Leuchars. The main taxi ranks are at the bus station, and on Bell Street which connects Market Street and South Street.

Moffat & Williamson Bus 64 runs hourly to Cupar (Fife), Falkland Palace and Glenrothes.

Town centre is designed to deter traffic, with a convoluted one-way system and limited expensive central parking. There are free car parks at Petheram Bridge just north of the bus station, Murray Place off North St, and Woodburn Place just south of the harbour. They're often referred to as "Park & Ride" but the town is too small for that, just walk in.

See

 * The Museum of The University of St Andrews has two principal collections:
 * - The Wardlaw Museum at 7 The Scores was due to re-open in spring 2020, but this has been postponed over coronavirus.
 * - Bell Pettigrew Museum within Bute Medical Buildings off Queen's Terrace is the zoology collection. It's open M-F 1-5PM and free.
 * The Museum of The University of St Andrews has two principal collections:
 * - The Wardlaw Museum at 7 The Scores was due to re-open in spring 2020, but this has been postponed over coronavirus.
 * - Bell Pettigrew Museum within Bute Medical Buildings off Queen's Terrace is the zoology collection. It's open M-F 1-5PM and free.
 * - The Wardlaw Museum at 7 The Scores was due to re-open in spring 2020, but this has been postponed over coronavirus.
 * - Bell Pettigrew Museum within Bute Medical Buildings off Queen's Terrace is the zoology collection. It's open M-F 1-5PM and free.


 * are small, at the outlet of the Kinness Burn, and the harbour is dry at low tide. It was an important fishing harbour but when the railway bypassed town, trade shifted to Dundee and the Forth ports. It's an agreeable place to stroll, with views from the end of the pier north across the Tay to the hills of Angus. On Sundays after chapel, university staff and students walk to the pier in their traditional academic dress.
 * Beaches are great for strolling, but only the hardiest souls will plunge into the cold waters of the North Sea. You'll want a wet suit for water sports.
 * is the two mile sandy beach that flanks the R&A golf courses, with an access lane. There are various zones to segregate activities such as sand yachts and family paddling. It ends in sand dunes at Out Head by the outflow of the River Eden: the dunes may be closed off to protect bird life and other features. Dogs restricted May-Sept.
 * is a small sandy beach just below the castle. You need high tide to access the sea, at other times there's a long furrowed line of rocks, fine for rock-pooling but a barrier to paddling. This beach is the site of the annual May Dip, where students jump into the sea at daybreak on 1st May as part of a hoary university tradition.
 * is a half-mile sandy beach east of the harbour. Dogs welcome.
 * Further away are sandy beaches at Kingsbarns five miles southeast, and at Tentsmuir Forest north of the River Eden.
 * Leuchars is the village where you change between train and bus: its main attraction is the well-preserved 12th-century St Athernase Church. The RAF base at Leuchars closed in 2015 and is now an army base and diversionary airfield; its fighter jets transferred to RAF Lossiemouth on the Moray coast.
 * Leuchars is the village where you change between train and bus: its main attraction is the well-preserved 12th-century St Athernase Church. The RAF base at Leuchars closed in 2015 and is now an army base and diversionary airfield; its fighter jets transferred to RAF Lossiemouth on the Moray coast.

Do

 * St Andrews Tours offer various guided tours of town, year-round.
 * St Andrews EuroWalk - Online self-guided tour of the town visiting key points of interest and exploring their historic and contemporary links with our European neighbours.
 * Golf originated in Scotland some time in the Middle Ages, and by 1457 it was common enough to be furiously prohibited by law, along with football. But by 1503 even the king was playing, and buying golf clubs and balls. At first golf was played on natural rugged terrain such as "links" ie sandy grass along the coast. The first maintained course was here in St Andrews, playing outward for 11 holes then homeward for a 22-hole course. Some holes were considered too short, so in 1764 these were combined to create a 9+9 course. And since St Andrews codified the rules of the game, the 18-hole course became standard.
 * The Royal and Ancient Golf Club is the high temple of the game, promulgating its rule book, and hosting major tournaments. The good news is, it's relatively simple although expensive to get a game here, if you come off-season. You're unlikely to get onto the hallowed turf of the Old Course - you need to be taking part in a tournament, or have immense influence, or get lucky in the ballot. Or you might be a spectator for a tournament, or simply stroll by to watch celebs playing and practising. Mind your head! - "celeb" doesn't always mean skilful. Your best chance of a game at R&A is on their six other courses: Castle, New, Jubilee, Eden, Strathtyrum and Balgove (which is 9-hole with no advance booking).
 * Golf originated in Scotland some time in the Middle Ages, and by 1457 it was common enough to be furiously prohibited by law, along with football. But by 1503 even the king was playing, and buying golf clubs and balls. At first golf was played on natural rugged terrain such as "links" ie sandy grass along the coast. The first maintained course was here in St Andrews, playing outward for 11 holes then homeward for a 22-hole course. Some holes were considered too short, so in 1764 these were combined to create a 9+9 course. And since St Andrews codified the rules of the game, the 18-hole course became standard.
 * The Royal and Ancient Golf Club is the high temple of the game, promulgating its rule book, and hosting major tournaments. The good news is, it's relatively simple although expensive to get a game here, if you come off-season. You're unlikely to get onto the hallowed turf of the Old Course - you need to be taking part in a tournament, or have immense influence, or get lucky in the ballot. Or you might be a spectator for a tournament, or simply stroll by to watch celebs playing and practising. Mind your head! - "celeb" doesn't always mean skilful. Your best chance of a game at R&A is on their six other courses: Castle, New, Jubilee, Eden, Strathtyrum and Balgove (which is 9-hole with no advance booking).
 * Duke's Golf Course is at Craigtoun, 3 miles southwest of town. It's run by the Old Course Hotel, see "Sleep", and is heathland not links. They're evasive about who the Duke was, but presumably a scoundrel if he couldn't get in at the R&A.
 * St Michaels GC is on A919 half a mile north of Leuchars.
 * St Andrews Bay Golf Course is part of the Fairmont Hotel, see "Sleep".
 * Kingsbarns Golf Links is five miles southeast off A917.
 * Lots more within a short drive.
 * Kingsbarns Distillery is open daily for tours. They produce whisky and gin.
 * by Duke's Golf Course is free to stroll and has paid activities for children.
 * Fife Agricultural Show is held in Cupar, with the next on Sa 18 May 2024.
 * St Andrews Highland Games are held on Station Park, with the next on Su 28 July 2024. There are also Games in Ceres in June, but Cupar Games have folded.
 * The
 * St Andrews Highland Games are held on Station Park, with the next on Su 28 July 2024. There are also Games in Ceres in June, but Cupar Games have folded.
 * The

Learn

 * The University of St. Andrews has a broad range of graduate and postgrad courses. It also offers short courses and summer schools suitable for visitors, eg in music, earth & environmental sciences, education, language, and orientation for overseas students.
 * Golf: this isn't the place to learn from scratch, do your hacking and gouging on a humble municipal park. For seasoned golfers there are lots of pricey "golf experiences" and skills development courses.

Buy

 * Golf, golf, golf, it's all over town. The closer you get to the Old Course, the higher the prices and the aroma of "prestige", but will your game improve proportionately?
 * Supermarkets are Tesco Metro on Market Street, and Morrisons south edge of town on A915.
 * Usual High Street names and souvenir shops, eg for knitware.

Eat

 * South Street is the main eating strip. It has the usual chains plus Shawarma House, Rogue, Jahangir Tandoor, Zizzi, Blackhorn Burgers, Tulsi (Indian), Tanon (Thai), Forgans and Tailend. For a post-pub filler, the fish and chips shops do "chips and cheese".
 * North Street has The Räv, Haar, Ziggy's, and Playfair's Steakhouse.
 * Old Course Hotel has Road Hole Restaurant and other eating options, see "Sleep".
 * Hotel du Vin Bistro (see "Sleep") is open W-Sa noon-2:30PM, Su 12:30-4:30PM, and daily 6-9PM.
 * Old Course Hotel has Road Hole Restaurant and other eating options, see "Sleep".
 * Hotel du Vin Bistro (see "Sleep") is open W-Sa noon-2:30PM, Su 12:30-4:30PM, and daily 6-9PM.
 * Old Course Hotel has Road Hole Restaurant and other eating options, see "Sleep".
 * Hotel du Vin Bistro (see "Sleep") is open W-Sa noon-2:30PM, Su 12:30-4:30PM, and daily 6-9PM.

Drink

 * Other pubs include The Criterion, The Saint (formerly The West Port), and Vic St Andrews (formerly The Victoria).
 * Other pubs include The Criterion, The Saint (formerly The West Port), and Vic St Andrews (formerly The Victoria).
 * Other pubs include The Criterion, The Saint (formerly The West Port), and Vic St Andrews (formerly The Victoria).
 * Other pubs include The Criterion, The Saint (formerly The West Port), and Vic St Andrews (formerly The Victoria).

Budget

 * Premier Inn is a reliable budget chain on Largo Road KY16 8NH, south of the centre. Double room £70, breakfast £10 pp.
 * St Andrews University lets out its student accommodation to other visitors June-Aug. Much of this is taken up by conference or golfing groups, but individual short stays are also available.
 * David Russell Apartments are modern apartments sleeping ten, so they suit large families. Each apartment has five double en suite bedrooms; some individual rooms are available. Bistro and bar on site, plus games room and laundry facilities. They're on Buchanan Gardens along B939 a mile west of town: the free parking lot is 300 yards away. In 2020 double B&B is £80.
 * University Hall (or Wardlaw Building) is a Victorian Baronial concoction, closed in 2023 for rebuilding.
 * McIntosh Hall has single and twin rooms with shared bathroom. It's a grand old former hotel, central on Abbotsford Cres just off North St. In 2020 B&B twin is £72.
 * Agnes Blackadder Hall is a modern building off A91 half a mile west of the centre. In 2020 B&B double is £80.
 * is on A915 a mile south of town. It's open Apr-Oct, tourers £26, two person tent £16.

Mid-range

 * The main cluster of B&Bs is around Murray Park and Murray Place.



Stay safe
The cold sea is the main natural hazard, and road traffic the main man-made danger. St Andrews rates as "very low" on all categories of crime statistics. Exercise usual care on the roads and with valuables.

Connect

 * St Andrews and its approach roads have 4G from all UK carriers, and as of Aug 2022 there's 5G from O2 in town centre. Wifi is widely available in public places.
 * St Andrews Library on Church Square has free internet access, but you need to book it in advance and show photo ID. It's open M-W 9:30AM-5PM, Th 10AM-7PM, Sa 10AM-4PM. This is the town library, only staff and students can access the university library.

Go next

 * Dundee has the Antarctic sailing ship Discovery, the V&A, Verdant Jute Mill and many more attractions.
 * See the picturesque fishing villages of the East Neuk: Crail, Anstruther, Pittenweem, St Monans and Elie. Don't bother with the coast west of there.
 * From Anstruther, summer boat trips visit the Isle of May.
 * Historic sites inland are Falkland Castle, Lochleven Castle on an island by Kinross, and Dunfermline.