Somerville

Older Bostonians might still derisively call it "Slummerville", but today that tired old moniker couldn't be further from the truth. Packed with upwardly mobile professionals and longtime residents, Somerville is often voted an "All-America City" and the best-run city in Massachusetts. It would seem civically engaged folks can achieve uncommon results; and Somerville fosters an environment of cooperation like no other. Its 81,000 residents (2020) are quick to enjoy the fruits of their artistry, and you'll find top notch options for dinner, drinks, and dancing all in abundance within Somerville's borders. Lurking just to the south, big brothers Boston and Cambridge provide options and opportunities for many of Somerville's creative class residents.

Understand
Somerville was once a part of Charlestown, and was used mostly as farmland and grazing pastures for hundreds of years. During the 18th century, Washington Street and Somerville Avenue came to be known as "Milk Row". These convenient roads were used by dairy farmers to transport wares into local Boston markets. The intersection of these roads created Union Square, a new and (relatively) bustling nexus for early settlers.

Prior to the Revolutionary War, Somerville was no stranger to tyranny. Vast amounts of Massachusetts gunpowder were stored at the Old Powder House, which the British successfully raided in 1774. These hostilities caused great outrage among the colonial population, and led to a popular uprising. This event is considered by many historians to be the point where public sentiment within the colonies turned in favor of war with England.

During wartime, the geography of Somerville's Prospect Hill made it a fitting place to command an army. Thanks mainly to its height and views of the area, it was fortified with Continental Army troops late in 1775 and became known as "The Citadel". To celebrate the new year, the Grand Union flag (a pre-cursor to the modern American flag) flew here for the first time January 1st, 1776. Many consider this to be the first official raising of any American flag.

After the revolution Somerville continued to grow, separating from Charlestown in 1842 before incorporating as a city in 1872. Its population exploded as its economy changed from mostly agrarian to a diverse industrial base. Bricks, railroads, and meatpacking industries were all booming, and the new Ford assembly plant built in 1926 kept businesses in the black well into the 20th century.

Just like Boston (and many other American cities), Somerville was on the downswing after WWII. Factories had closed, the trains stopped running, and anyone who could afford it fled for the suburbs. The blight continued for decades, until the first seeds of life began to return. During the mid 1980s the MBTA re-opened the Davis Square train station on the Red line. By the 1990s, higher-paying technology and biotech jobs started to appear, and crime rates began to drop.

Now in the 21st century, Somerville's biggest challenges have become gentrification and public transit. Buildings you couldn't pay people to take off your hands in the 1980s now trade for millions of dollars. In 2006 the MBTA promised to extend the Green Line into Somerville, connecting several underserved areas. Once mandated for completion by December 2014, little progress has been made to date, aside from Union Square station opening in early 2022. (Mention this to any local for a surefire conversation starter!) These aren't easy problems to solve, but if any city has both the will and the aptitude&mdash;it's Somerville.

Neighborhoods
Davis Square: This is a great late-night summer hangout, especially given all the shopping and dining to be found here. It's right on the Red Line, and also a major bus transfer point. Tons of college folk linger in the brick plaza. Head up Holland St from Davis to find Teele Square. It's a bit less crowded here, and has a lot to offer in way of local pubs and restaurants. Walk College Ave instead to be brought to Powderhouse Square. Mostly residential, but not without its interesting sights.

Union Square: The last stop, and terminus of the MBTA's Green Line. From the Sullivan Square Orange Line station it's a 15-minute walk, or there are buses always arriving from Central, Harvard, Porter, Davis, and Lechmere T stations. You'll find a number of Brazilian restaurants and stores around, the community extends all the way to Inman Square in Cambridge with another pocket in Allston. Union Square is nice, featuring quaint brickwork and benches created by local artists. A major reconstruction of Somerville Avenue saw the installation of better lighting, more traffic lights, and raised pedestrian crosswalks.

Winter Hill: Located roughly north of Highland Avenue and west of the McGrath Highway, Winter Hill is home to a mix of restored homes and aluminium-sided fixer-uppers, replete with china gnomes and bathtub Virgin Marys. Once known as the home base of Irish gangsters Whitey Bulger, James "Buddy" McLean, Howie Winter and the notorious Winter Hill Gang in the 1960s and 1970s. Winter Hill is now, like much of the rest of Somerville, experiencing gentrification and a resulting rise in property values and rents. Despite these changes, the area continues to hang onto its neighborhood flavor and is home to a large community of Irish, Italians, Brazilians, Portuguese, Cape Verdeans, and other ethnic groups.

Get in
Since Somerville is so tightly bound to Boston, please refer to the Get In and Get Around sections of that article for all the gory details. Somerville also shares several transit options with nearby Cambridge.

By public transit
For a city as densely populated as Somerville, the dearth of rapid transit is surprising. The only T stations within Somerville's borders are Union Square on the Green Line, Davis on the Red line, and Assembly on the Orange. Around the periphery, several other stations serve Somerville, if you don't mind a little walking. Harvard and Porter, both on the Red line are often convenient. Sullivan Square on the Orange line plays host to an array of busses, and Lechmere on the Green line can sometimes be helpful.

If you really want to explore the city, you'll need to get on the bus. Sullivan Square probably has the most options; the #89 and #101 run down Broadway, the #90 runs down Highland, and the #95 runs along the Mystic to Medford. The #86 heads to Harvard and stops at Union Square on the way, while the #91 and CT2 from Sullivan are also bound for Union Square. If you're starting from Lechmere, the #87 continues past the Green Line's terminus in Union Square and travels along Somerville Ave. to Davis, and the #88 is the most frequent down Highland.

On the off chance you're arriving on the Fitchburg Line of the Commuter Rail, it stops at Porter Station. It's much more convenient for you to get off here, rather than heading all the way downtown to North Station.

By car
Driving to Somerville isn't totally insane, but traffic will be intense and parking will be limited. Davis Square in particular is notorious for its congestion. When you arrive at your destination, make sure to get your buddy's visitor parking pass. Without it you'll be ticketed for parking onstreet without a permit.

You can take Interstate 93 from the north or south to any of Somerville's three exits: 29, 30, and 31. From the north west both Route 2 and Route 3 each come very close to Somerville's borders, but you'll need to use smaller city streets to get where you're going. Get ready to face some truly authentic Boston driving along the last mile or two of your journey!

See
Somerville doesn't really have any show-stopping "must see" sights. It's all about relaxing, taking your time, and letting the quirky character of the neighborhood soak in. For example you might see a few of the more than 200 backyard shrines, built to honor the Blessed Virgin Mary; often referred to as "Bathtub Marys". In Union Square, another walkable hotspot, you can find scores of whimsical benches painted by local artists.



Do
Most tourists spend their time near Davis and Porter Squares, within walking distance of each other. Residents sometimes avoid those crowds by hitting their favorite spots in Union Square and the Winter Hill area. They're further from the T, but it's a great way to get out there and meet some real Somervillians.



Events




Drink




Sleep
Somerville is, as mentioned elsewhere, a heavily residential area; hence, there are few hotels. Although there are plans for a hotel in Davis, nothing exists today. Many more options are available in Cambridge, Boston, or in one of the outlying suburbs along Route 93 or Route 95. Any nearby city will be easily accessible to many parts of Somerville by mass transit.



Go next

 * Push yourself over the borderline and into "The People's Republic" of Cambridge, where more offbeat shops and restaurants abound.
 * Stretch your legs at the Middlesex Fells Reservation in Stoneham, where plenty of hiking and biking opportunities can be found.
 * Already holding tickets? Catch a game at historic Fenway Park situated in the center of the Fenway neighborhood.
 * Looking for more live entertainment? Allston Rock City across the river to the south west has got you covered.
 * Yearning for the Somerville of old? Head south to Dorchester, where some areas carry a similar creative spark.