Skopje/Stara Čaršija

The Stara Čaršija (Macedonian: Стара Чаршија; meaning Old Bazaar or Old Town) of Skopje, North Macedonia, is the city's historic centre. First inhabited thousands of years ago, it was an important centre of commerce during Ottoman times when it enjoyed its peak importance. The Ottoman heritage is predominant in Stara Čaršija: there are roughly 30 mosques, three caravansaries, and a few hamams (Turkish baths) still standing, in addition to a clock tower and other Ottoman structures. Despite the earthquakes and various other disasters Skopje has seen, the neighbourhood is in very good shape. Many of its buildings were restored in the 2010s, largely funded by the Turkish government. It is an authentic Macedonian contrast to the controversial "faux historic" buildings being constructed around the city. A must-see when visiting Skopje, the Stara Čaršija is one of the largest and best collections of Ottoman architecture and history.

Understand
While the Old Bazaar is still a lively place any day of the week, it was at its peak importance during Ottoman rule. Skopje was visited by noted Ottoman traveller Elviya Çelebi in 1660. In his writings, he spoke highly of Skopje's bazaar: ”[In the Bazaar] there are 2,150 stores. There are squares and markets, with arches and domes. Of all, the best are: the Bazaar of cotton works, umbrella makers, shoemakers, painters, weavers. These are huge bazaars constructed according to the plan. The lanes are clean and paved. Each store is decorated with hyacinths, violets, roses, basil, lilacs and lily in vases and pots. With their smell, they simply call for the attention of the visitors and traders. There are many educated and honest people. During summer heat, the markets in Skopje look like Baghdad shadows, for all its bazaars are with twisted shutters and arches as in Sarajevo and Aleppo” Some buildings have been lost in various fires and earthquakes but the Stara Čaršija has maintained its character over the centuries; it is still filled with narrow cobblestone streets lined by Ottoman-era structures.

Today, the Old Bazaar is a vibrant district with a diverse group of people consisting of Macedonians, Albanians, Turks, Roma (Gypsies), Bosniaks, and others. Most of it falls within Čair Municipality and a smaller portion within Centar Municipality (for the sake of ease, the entirety of the Old Bazaar is covered in this travel guide). It roughly begins at Karpoš's Rebellion Square in the south and is bound by Gazi Baba Park to the east, the Vardar to the west, and Yahya Pasha Mosque (just north of Nikola Karev Boulevard) to the north. Čair Municipality extends further north but is primarily residential north of the Old Bazaar.

By bus
Bus lines in the area run along the east side of the Old Bazaar on Krste Misirikov Boulevard and/or Goce Delcev Boulevard which runs through the south end of the Old Bazaar. All bus lines northeast of the river runs through these two boulevard. If coming from the south of the river via bus, many lines run through the Old Bazaar and, if they don't, they'll at least stop in Centar which is a short walk to the Old Bazaar (map).

By car
Nikola Karev Boulevard (known under different names over the length of the boulevard) is a major east-west boulevard in the city and it cuts through the middle of the Old Bazaar. Krste Misirkov Boulevard runs north-south through the eastern end of the district. Goce Delcev Boulevard runs east-west through the south end of the Old Bazaar.

Get around
The narrow streets and alleyways of Skopje's Old Town are best navigated on foot. Many streets are closed to vehicular traffic and those that aren't can still be difficult to drive on. The neighbourhood isn't huge, walking from Daut Pasha Hamam in the south to Yahya Pasha Mosque in the north is under a half hour walk. A bicycle is also a good way of getting around.

Talk
The Old Town area is highly multilingual, with Macedonian, Albanian, Serbo-Croatian, Turkish and English all spoken by market sellers, tradespeople and restaurant/hotel staff.

Caravansaries
Skopje's three remaining caravansaries or inns (Turkish: han) are square in shape with a main courtyard in the centre. The three hans, while no longer operating as inns, are all accessible to the public.

Mosques
The Old Bazaar has a number of mosques, most of which date from Ottoman times. The more notable ones are listed below; others include the 15th-century Hacı Balaban Mosque, the 18th-century Cose Kadi Mosque, and the newer Arasta and Hudaverdi mosques built as reconstructions of older mosques. Many of the mosques are named after the sultan, pasha (general or governor), or bey (local ruler) who commissioned its construction.



Hamam museums
Two of the Stara Čaršija's museums are former hamams (Turkish baths) built during Ottoman times. Each is worth a visit whether you have actual interest in the exhibits or simply wish to see the interior of a Turkish bath. Two other hamams exist in the Old Bazaar but they are both largely in disrepair.

Drink
Have a çay in one of the side stalls of the Pit Pazar, or enjoy a Turkish coffee around the side alleys of the old bazar.