Siwa

Siwa is an oasis and town in the Western Desert of Egypt. It is the most remote of Egypt's five western oases. The oasis is 80 km long by 20 km wide, with a population in 2016 of some 33,000. It has a scattering of villages but only one large settlement, here referred to as "Siwa town" for clarity. Its main sight is the Temple of the Oracle, which even Alexander the Great came to visit.

Understand
Siwa is in a great depression in the Sahara, so although it is 300 km from the Mediterranean coast at Marsa Matruh, it lies at sea-level or even a few metres below. This brings it close to a great aquifer of sandstone and limestone, containing "fossil water" - rain that fell 40,000 years ago. All the oasis water comes from this non-renewable resource. The depression was scoured out by wind-blown sand and salt, and the water is only usable if it is not salty. Most of Siwa's water is salty and the town is surrounded by large bitter lakes, which support wildlife (eg migratory birds, which gorge on the insects and grubs) but not agriculture. Wells nowadays have to drill down 300 m to access fresh water, so the area remains fertile but its development is constrained - tourist hotels are notoriously profligate users of water. Siwa's aquifer continues across the border into Libya, where it emerges as the Jaghbub oasis. Some 200 km east of Siwa is the even larger and deeper depression of Qattara, where all the water is saline and useless, so it is not an oasis.

The inhabitants of Siwa are ethnically Berber and their mother tongue is a Berber language called Siwi. They also speak Egyptian Arabic, and many can speak a little English.

Like the other western oases, the climate is hot desert, near 40°C summer and 5°C in winter. There is almost zero rainfall.

Get in
There are no flights to Siwa so the only approach is along two very long roads.

By road
550 km west of Cairo (but 750 km by either road) or from Alexandria, the best approach is by the coast road to Marsa Matruh, then it is 300 km southwest across the desert to Siwa. This road is asphalt throughout—beware blowing sand. It is a long way with no filling stations though there is a café midway.

The other way is to Bahariyya oasis then west across the desert. This road is asphalt. From there a dirt track heads west to Siwa. It is being upgraded and buses previously ran this way, but in 2019 it was closed by the military.

West of Siwa is the border with Libya (50 km), which is closed throughout, and south are only the trackless sands of the desert.

By bus


From specific destinations:
 * Cairo – Nightly around 8PM from Cairo bus terminal West Delta Bus line and heading back at the same time. 12 hr. LE200 (Jan 2022). This bus can be cold and drafty in the winter.
 * Marsa Matruh – At least daily from the coast. 4 hr. You might prefer to take a day-time bus through Marsa Matruh from Cairo.
 * Bahariyya – In 2019, there was no bus or taxi service, or least foreigners were not allowed along that road.

By taxi
A taxi on the Marsa Matruh route might cost LE1,000.

By bicycle
Bicycles are the best way to explore Siwa and surroundings, and Chinese gear-less models can be rented for LE10 per day (LE5 half day). Before accepting a bike, however, check that it is sturdy, that the brakes are functioning well and that the handle bars are not cracked or bent. Driving on sand-covered streets can be quite a challenge for inexperienced cyclists.

By donkey cart
Donkey cart drivers are mostly children who have been riding donkeys for several years. Prices for this mode of transport are negotiable - just make sure the price is clearly agreed before setting off - and run from around LE3 for a short trip within the downtown up to LE30 for longer journeys. To get a few people and their backpacks from the bus station to town center can be as cheap as LE1.50. An afternoon trip to Cleopatra's Well will probably cost about LE20-25.

See

 * Siwa town
 * King Farooq Mosque
 * Tomb of Sidi Suleiman




 * There are other wells and springs at Ain Qureishad, Abu Shuruf, Ez-Zeitun and Ain Safi. Abu el-Auwuf has a necropolis and chapels.
 * There are other wells and springs at Ain Qureishad, Abu Shuruf, Ez-Zeitun and Ain Safi. Abu el-Auwuf has a necropolis and chapels.
 * There are other wells and springs at Ain Qureishad, Abu Shuruf, Ez-Zeitun and Ain Safi. Abu el-Auwuf has a necropolis and chapels.
 * There are other wells and springs at Ain Qureishad, Abu Shuruf, Ez-Zeitun and Ain Safi. Abu el-Auwuf has a necropolis and chapels.
 * There are other wells and springs at Ain Qureishad, Abu Shuruf, Ez-Zeitun and Ain Safi. Abu el-Auwuf has a necropolis and chapels.
 * There are other wells and springs at Ain Qureishad, Abu Shuruf, Ez-Zeitun and Ain Safi. Abu el-Auwuf has a necropolis and chapels.
 * There are other wells and springs at Ain Qureishad, Abu Shuruf, Ez-Zeitun and Ain Safi. Abu el-Auwuf has a necropolis and chapels.
 * There are other wells and springs at Ain Qureishad, Abu Shuruf, Ez-Zeitun and Ain Safi. Abu el-Auwuf has a necropolis and chapels.
 * There are other wells and springs at Ain Qureishad, Abu Shuruf, Ez-Zeitun and Ain Safi. Abu el-Auwuf has a necropolis and chapels.
 * There are other wells and springs at Ain Qureishad, Abu Shuruf, Ez-Zeitun and Ain Safi. Abu el-Auwuf has a necropolis and chapels.

Do

 * Excursions – By 4x4 to the various outlying sights, either as day-trips or as overnight safaris.
 * Equinox sunrise – Timasirayn temple is a ruin 12 km west of town, accessible by 4x4. On the morning of the equinox (Mar 21 and Sep 23, plus or minus a day in some years) the sunrise viewed from here is over the Temple of the Oracle, prominent on its hill. Tourist entrepreneurs and flaky archaeologists have tried to play this up—there is maybe a secret tunnel to Chichen Itza and Angkor Wat hereabouts—but its significance remains unclear. You cannot see much without powerful binoculars or zoom lenses, and even the ancient Egyptians knew it was unwise to look at the sun through those.
 * Excursions – By 4x4 to the various outlying sights, either as day-trips or as overnight safaris.
 * Equinox sunrise – Timasirayn temple is a ruin 12 km west of town, accessible by 4x4. On the morning of the equinox (Mar 21 and Sep 23, plus or minus a day in some years) the sunrise viewed from here is over the Temple of the Oracle, prominent on its hill. Tourist entrepreneurs and flaky archaeologists have tried to play this up—there is maybe a secret tunnel to Chichen Itza and Angkor Wat hereabouts—but its significance remains unclear. You cannot see much without powerful binoculars or zoom lenses, and even the ancient Egyptians knew it was unwise to look at the sun through those.

Buy

 * Popular items are local crafts, jewelry, and baskets woven from date palms.
 * Or splurge on your wedding dress—these have red, orange, green and black embroidery, embellished with shells and beads.

Eat
Siwa Dates are the best in Egypt, and perhaps the whole world. Apart from regular dates, they are also sold stuffed with almonds and chocolate. Shops specialising in dates are found around Market Square, and prices range from LE7-8 for a 500-g box.



Drink
Siwan Tea – This is a red tea that is commonly found on desert safaris and is available in most restaurants. 500 g boxes of red (or green) tea leaves are sold in date/olive shop and cost about LE15.

Stay safe
As a very conservative and traditional town, Siwa is extremely safe. There is no risk of theft or physical violence as long as travelers behave according to expected norms (see 'Respect' below)

Mosquitoes can be a small nuisance.

Respect

 * Women should not wear clothing that reveals the shoulders, breasts, or legs.
 * Public displays of affection are prohibited.
 * Alcohol should not be consumed in public.
 * Male travelers should avoid contact with the local women as doing so is considered a rude and hostile act.

Connect

 * Gas stations – Beside the mosque in Shali and behind Hotel Arous al-Waha
 * Telephone office, post office, police – Across the street from Hotel Arous al-Waha
 * Telephone office, post office, police – Across the street from Hotel Arous al-Waha

Go next

 * The only open route is back to the Med coast at Marsa Matruh. Explore the wartime sites then continue to Alexandria or Cairo.