Sittwe

Sittwe or Akyab (Burmese စစ်တွေမြို့) is a city (pop. 148,000 as of 2014) and district in Rakhine State, Western Myanmar.

Understand
Sittwe is in the far west of Myanmar and has been a hub for tourists travelling to Mrauk U via plane, e.g. from Yangon.

By car or bus
The road to Sittwe (via Pyay) is quite comfortable if you have your own car. Buses also travel the route. Either way, set aside two days for the journey from Yangon. The coastal route is still long and arduous.



From specific destinations
 * Yangon – 26 hr, 25-35,000 kyat.
 * Mandalay – The bus from Mandalay stops at Magway near the bridge across the Irrawaddy river.
 * Bagan – If you starting from Bagan, you have to take a bus to Magway and switch to the bus to Sittwe (or Mrauk U) near the bridge across the Irrawaddy river or in front of the K.H.M. Fashion store. The bus from Bagan to Magway leaves the bus station near the airport at 10:00, 12:30 and 23:00, and costs 4,000 kyat. The bus from Magway to Sittwe is about 25-30,000 kyat and 18 hr. A similar trip is possible via Kyauk Padaung, best ask your guesthouse or travel agent of choice.
 * Ngapali – The bus from Thandwe bus station starts at 11:30 & 13:30, and takes 17 hr to Mrauk U and is about 20,000 kyat.
 * Taungup – Mostly the same buses that start in Thandwe bus station (Ngapali). They will stop at 14:30 & 16:30 in Taungup and take 14 hr for about 17,000 kyat to Mrauk U.
 * Pyay – Served by the Yangon buses that stop in Pyay. Advisable to book in advance. 18 hr, 22,000 kyat.
 * Mrauk U – There are various local buses, pickups and vans available for the 70 km. 1½ hr, 2-3,000 kyat.

By boat
The journey through the backwaters and then up the river is a wonderful trip. There are some concerns regarding the security on the boat, robberies have occurred. Please get updated information on-site.



There were, although thae current situation is unclear, 2 large ferries running from Mrauk U to Sittwe: the ex-government boat (XGov, now privatised) and the Aung Kyaw Moe (AKM) double-decker boat. Prices for both are US$10 (tourists) and they take 7 hr. An express boat is $20, which takes 3 hr. Also ask for private boats/places on private boats (5 passengers+, $20, 6 hr, one-way), which may be useful if it goes that afternoon, as you save a night in Sittwe.

Sittwe to Mrauk U: a ferry goes Monday (AKM); Tuesday (XGov); Friday (Xgov); Saturday (AKM) at 07:00. Express boat Wednesday, 14:00 and there one more sailing of the Aung Kyaw Moe, Thursday (possibly Wednesday).

Mrauk U to Sittwe: a ferry goes Tuesday (AKM); Wednesday (XGov); Friday (AKM); Saturday (Xgov); Sunday (AKM) at 07:00. Express boat Thursday, 07:00.

Food is available for purchase. The ferry is not in good condition, but seems safe enough. The ferry has been known to skip a day or two every now and then so, if relying on it for travel, keep a reasonable buffer to avoid being stuck. Private boats are available for rent in Sittwe and may do the trip considerably faster (4 to 6 hr) for $80 (as of 2008) depending on your negotiating skills and the number in your party. The principal advantage of renting a private boat is that you are no longer tied to the ferry schedule. In high season 2011 there were private boats leaving Mrauk U seemingly every day, which you could join for negotiated fare. Flights from Yangon arrive in Sittwe in the afternoon and it is easy to rent a boat and be in Mrauk U in the evening, which means a travel time of one day from Yangon. With the government ferry, count on at least two days to get from Yangon to Mrauk U (including flight), longer if you arrive the day before a ferry off-day.

Get around
Most sights can be reached on foot if you stay in one of the guesthouses in the centre. Trishaws and motorbike taxis are readily available and the easiest way to get around for destinations outside this range. A private ride to Sittwe Bus Station is 1,000 kyat or more. Shared pickups are about 500 kyat for 10-15 km.

As always, you can also rent a bicycle for 1,000 kyat or more from most hotels and guesthouses.

See




Do
Most people use Sittwe as a stopping point for Mrauk U and rarely spend time in the city. However, a brief visit is well-rewarded.



Eat
Sittwe is a much better place for trying Rakhine food than Mrauk U. Rakhine food is spicy and is a nice change from the blander Burmese curries. Mondi, the Rakhaing version of the Burmese mohinga, is thinner and spicier. Rakhaing fish curries, catfish is the local favourite, are fiery and can be enjoyed at several hole-in-the-wall (or rather shack-on-the-ground) eateries that dot the main street and side streets of Sittwe. Restaurants, such as City Point, Nyein Chan, and in the Shwe Thazin Hotel in Sittwe tend to serve blander Burmese or Chinese food, so forget about them.



Go next
Road travel is becoming more and more popular. In the past it was only possible to fly into Sittwe and take a boat to Mrauk U, or the other way around, due to travel restrictions on tourists.


 * Mrauk U – Famous for is ancient sights and traditional, surrounding Chin Villages, and 70 km away. Many buses leave from the Bus Station northwest of the city. But there are also local pickups and vans available, try the bus stand near the central market. 1.5 hr, 2-3,000 kyat. Also boats are available to Mrauk U. One leaves in the afternoon at 16:00, takes 3 hr and is 20,000 kyat. Try: 09 49660076, 09 421720296, www.mraukutraveler.com, www.mraukukyawmoe.com, email mraukukyawmoe@gmail.com. For more information on boats have a look at.
 * Taungup – Is nothing special, but there exist some tourist accommodation options. It can be a convenient hub for road travel between Sittwe, Mrauk U, Pyay and Ngapali. There are at least two buses a day heading for Ngapali with a stop in Taungup. The trip is quite unpleasant due to the terrible condition of the road - expect to arrive very tired and make sure to get a decent seat in front. 14 hr, 17,000 kyat. Taungup also has a harbour where boats from Sittwe depart on Monday & Thursday, leave Sittwe at 06:00, arrive in Taungup at 15:00.
 * Ngapali – Has the most beautiful beaches in Myanmar, but is mostly a resort place with few budget options available. There are at least two buses a day heading for Thandwe Bus Station, 6 km away from Ngapali at the highway, with a stop in Taungup. The road conditions are terrible. 17 hr, 20,000 kyat.
 * Bagan – One of the most famous attractions in Myanmar. There are no direct buses available to Bagan, you will have to take a bus to Magway (07:00 & 10:00, 18 hr, 25-30,000 kyat) or Mandalay (similar times) and get off at Magway or Kyauk Padaung (19 hr, same price as Mandalay), respectively. From there it should be easy to catch onward transport, pickup/van or another bus. Check the bus does goes through there (Kyauk Padaung), especially when entering the bus. Often the ticket seller and the bus are different companies, because passengers are shuffled around depending on availability. The Kyauk Padaung route is preferable, because Kyauk Padaung is very close to Bagan and you can stop at Mount Popa on the way to enjoy the sunrise on top of the pagoda. 22 hr, from 30,000 kyat.
 * Pyay – Famous for the nearby and ancient Pyu city. Mostly served by the morning buses to Yangon. 18 hr, 22,000 kyat.
 * Mandalay – Famous for the U Bein Bridge, the Buddha face washing, as well as the nearby mountains by train. 07:00-10:00, 23 hr, 25-35,000 kyat.
 * Yangon – Most buses to Yangon leave early morning between 06:00 to 09:00. You have to get to the bus station early, even at 05:30, to ensure you get a seat, or book sufficiently in advance. The last bus is around 12:00. All buses will make a stop in Pyay after 18 hr. Overall duration 26 hr, costs 25-35,000 kyat.