Sheki

Shaki (azr. Şəki, sometimes spelled "Sheki") is Azerbaijan's true travel gem, a small city off on the forested slopes of the Greater Caucasus Mountains. Rich in Islamic architecture, Silk Road history, good food, and friendly people, this is travel and leisure in the Caucasus at its finest.

Understand
Few foreigners visit Azerbaijan beyond the capital city, Baku. In so doing, they overlook a true gem in the form of Shaki. The small city of Shaki has a whole lot to offer by way of historic attractions; in particular, the Palace of the Shaki Khans (Khansarai) is a magnificent work of Islamic architecture and a world heritage site. Its setting is stunning; it lies in the rolling, thickly forested foothills, which spread out to the south, while to the immediate north are the dramatic, snow-capped peaks of the Greater Caucasus. The possibilities for treks into the unspoilt mountain landscapes are endless, and are alone a great reason to visit the city. But more than anything, the relaxed pace of life evident in Shaki's central market and tea houses makes the city a welcome respite from whatever cares you may have.

A relatively small city, Shaki has a population of about 63,000. It is situated in northern Azerbaijan on the southern part of the Greater Caucasus mountain range, 325 km (201 mi) from Baku and not far from the Georgian border. Shaki is located at an altitude of 500 m (1,640 ft).



History
Throughout its history, Shaki was swung between independence and foreign domination. In its earlier centuries, Shaki was the seat of an Albanian kingdom, which was invaded repeatedly by the Persian, Roman, Parthian, Arab, Mongolian, and other empires. In the past millennium, Shaki fell under the influence and often the direct rule of Persia or the Shirvanshahs of Baku. Shortly after the 18th century collapse of the Safavid Empire, Shaki became the capital of the independent Shaki Khanate, during which the Khansarai was built. But Shaki's independence did not last long; it was absorbed in the early 19th century by an expansionist Russian Empire. Due to Shaki's rather tumultuous political history (in a tumultuous region), the majority of Shaki's preserved historic and architectural monuments date from only the 16th-19th centuries.

Climate

 * Winter &mdash; cold, but the snow is only heavy during January and February
 * Spring &mdash; beautiful with the once-brown mountains turning green from the rain
 * Summer &mdash; mild
 * Fall &mdash; quite warm during the day, but at night it gets a bit chilly, so pack a jacket and a thick blanket

By train
The train station has a somewhat inconvenient location about 17 km (11 mi) from the city center. In order to reach the station you will either have to take a taxi for 4-10 manat (depending on your negotiation skills) or hop on a Baku-bound bus or marshrutka and ask the driver to drop you off by the railroad station, and then walk about 200 m to the station. There are night trains that run from Baku-Balakan and make a stop in Shaki. There is also a Balakan-Baku train that passes through Shaki. Passengers must produce their passports in order to buy tickets. It would be wise to purchase a ticket for the luxury carriage in advance. You can contact Mr. Xemlet at or Mr. Arxan at  to make advanced reservations, or buy them online. Tickets bought online must be picket up at least one hour in advance at the train station. The basic carriage (plaskard) costs 6.73 manat for upper bed, and 7.81 manat for lower bed (Oct 2017), the middle class (coupe) costs around 12 manat (Oct 2017), and the luxury carriage (SV/Super Vagon) costs 19 manat (Oct 2017). Make sure that you receive all of your change from the ticket counter, as they often try to shortchange foreigners.

Daily departure times to the Shaki terminal:
 * Baku: May 28 Station, 22:10
 * Balakan: 20:00
 * Zaqatala: 21:00
 * Qax: 21:45

Daily departure times from the Shaki terminal:
 * Baku: 23:00
 * Balakan: ~06:30

By bus or marshrutka
By bus: This is one of the more tedious ways to get to Shaki, taking around 6 hours, because the mountain pass used by cars and marshrutkas would be out of the question for such a large bus. Although slower, buses are more comfortable than marshrutkas, although the ones with air conditioning overdo the cold air in a big way. The bus depart daily from Baku International Bus Terminal at 09:00, 11:00, 12:20 and more bus almost every hour till 17:00. The local people usually buy tickets few hours/mins before the departure time. But you can also purchase tickets in days advance at Baku International Bus Terminal in or their website. The fare from Baku is 8.40 manat. The bus stop at Shaki Central Bus Station where you can get a taxi or Shaki marshrutka to your next destination easily.

By marshrutka: Marshrutkas run between many of the major cities to the Shaki bus station (avtovağzal). Use your discretion when riding the marshrutkas as the condition of both vehicles and drivers vary&mdash;this matters, given the exceptionally steep road, full of sharp curves, that awaits.

The Shaki bus terminal ticket counter open from 06:30-17:00 and 20:00-midnight (holidays 10:30-23:30). Call the cashier at. The ticket vendors at the terminal speak Russian, Turkish, and Azeri.

Bus/marshrutka departure times to the Shaki terminal:
 * Baku: 09:40, 12:20, 17:30, 22:15. 6 hr. 6-9 manat.
 * Ganja: 08:20, 13:45, 16:30, 17:30, 18:15. 3.60 manat.
 * Qax: 09:30 12:20 16:30 18:30. 1.40 manat.

Bus/marshrutka departure times from the Shaki terminal:
 * Balakan: 10:10, 14:00
 * Baku: hourly from 06:30-18:00. 8-9 manat.
 * Barda: 09:00, 11:30, 16:30
 * Bulaq: 06:30, 10:00
 * Ganja: 08:00, 08:30, 13:30. 3 manat.
 * Kaldak: 13:00, 17:00
 * Shaki-A Kungut: 07:00, 13:00, 17:00
 * Shaki-B Kungut: 09:00, 15:00
 * Mingechivir: 06:50, 09:40, 13:00, 16:00. 2 manat.
 * Naftalan: 15:10
 * Oguz: 07:20, 10:30, 11:40, 13:20, 15:00, 16:00. 1.50 manat.
 * Qayabaş: 14:00
 * Qabala via Oguz: 06:50, 14:00. 2 manat.
 * Qax: 08:00 11:30 15:00 17:30. 1.40 manat.
 * Shorsu: 07:00, 13:00, 16:00
 * Yevlax: 10:30
 * Zaqatala: 07:00, 9:00, 11:00, 11:40, 15:00, 16:30

By taxi
Until the airport begins operating again, the fastest form of transport between Baku and Shaki is by taxi &mdash; it takes about 6 hr and 60 manat. If you share the ride with other people, it will cost around 10 manat per person.

A taxi is also a fine, if more expensive, way to get to Georgia, and you should have no trouble finding a taxi, bus, or marshrutka onward from the border at Lagodekhi to Tbilisi.

On foot
Though a large city by the standards of Azerbaijan, it's easy enough to get around the city center and all the main sights on foot. The sloping terrain of the city, however, may tax older visitors, but it's also easy to get around using taxis and, for the adventurous, marshrutkas.

By bus or marshrutka
Buses and marshrutkas operate from 07:00-20:00, charge 30 qapick (as of 2018), and go to many different locations throughout the city. There are 24 routes throughout the city, and most of these buses either stop in the bus terminal, the city center, or the new bazaar. Pay for the ride when getting off the bus.

Routes:


 * 1a &mdash; Silk factory; ziyarit; radio tower; post office; hospital; bus terminal; gushlek drug store; pavilion; Olympic complex
 * 3a &mdash; New bazaar; radio tower; silk factory; teacher's school; The Palace of the Shaki Khans; genceli mehel; Caravansary; post office
 * 4 &mdash; New bazaar; K/T Axundov; hospital; bus terminal; gas office; pavilion
 * 5 &mdash; New bazaar; bus terminal; old bazaar; silk factory; qrensh zavod; bagbanlar St
 * 6 &mdash; Okhud village
 * 7 &mdash; Olympic complex; bus terminal; hospital; theater; old bazaar; silk factory; university; dodu
 * 8 &mdash; New bazaar; bus terminal; hospital; near school number 10; silk factory; dodu
 * 9 &mdash; Silk factory; bus terminal; olympic complex
 * 11 &mdash; New Bazaar; bus terminal; old bazaar; Caravansary; The Palace of the Shaki Khans; children's hospital; Olympic complex
 * 14 &mdash; New bazaar; gushlek drug store; pavilion; number 11 school
 * 15 &mdash; Kish; dodu; new bazaar
 * 17 &mdash; First region; children's hospital; The Palace of the Shaki Khans; Caravansary; old bazaar; bus terminal; new bazaar
 * 18 &mdash; Bus terminal; guyumler; sarabski kuche; asphalt mill; new bazaar; olympic complex
 * 20 &mdash; Bus terminal; new bazaar
 * 22 &mdash; Olympic complex; bus terminal; hospital; theater; old bazaar; Caravansary; The Palace of the Shaki Khans; children's hospital
 * 23 &mdash; Bazaar; Dodu; Kish's 1st Bus Stop; Kish's 2nd Bus Stop near number 3 school
 * 24 &mdash; Pavilion; number 20 school; executive committee; radio tower; recreation zone; new bazaar

By taxi
Taxis charge 2-6 manat and are quite convenient if you know where you want to go within the city. Addresses are quite useless in Azerbaijan as many roads have been renamed since independence, so it's better to direct the driver to a landmark you know of such as a school, hotel, or historic place. Taxi to the train station costs 10 manat.

Talk
While Shaki is a natural tourist destination, English is not widely spoken, so it would be wise to either bring an Azeri phrasebook and/or brush up on your Azeri, Russian, or Turkish before arriving.


 * Azerbaijani phrasebook
 * Russian phrasebook
 * Turkish phrasebook

The accent of Shaki is a bit quicker than that of standard Azeri and instead of the k sound it is often replaced with a kh. Also, Shaki-specific vocabulary is often used instead of common Azeri vocabulary words.

See
In addition to enjoying the views, and wandering the leafy streets, there are two sights in Shaki that you really cannot miss: the Khansarai and the Caravansarai. They're both on the same road, so they're easy enough to visit in one afternoon. If you want to draw out that afternoon, start with a lunch in the Caravansarai courtyard, then head up the hill to the Khansarai, wander around the palace, then stop in the teahouse next door to relax over a cup or two.

Sights






Do



 * Explore the new bazaar, located on the western section of the city. The new bazaar is an interesting spot, where you can find all sorts of handicrafts, food, and spices.
 * Explore the new bazaar, located on the western section of the city. The new bazaar is an interesting spot, where you can find all sorts of handicrafts, food, and spices.
 * Explore the new bazaar, located on the western section of the city. The new bazaar is an interesting spot, where you can find all sorts of handicrafts, food, and spices.

Hiking
There is endless spectacular hiking to be done throughout the northern region of Azerbaijan, and Shaki proves no exception.


 * Hike on nearby mountains &mdash; Hiking trails start just behind the Khansarai. There is a whole network of the trails on the mountain. However, most of them are still unmarked and not included in any maps. Hike up on the 2,050 m high peak just NE from the town, with great sights over the plains and higher mountains behind. Trails are wide and well "maintained" by the local people who use them for logging and moving the herds.
 * Shaki-Bash Kyungyut-Bideiz-Shaki &mdash; 55.5 km (34.5 mi) (48.5 km/30.1 mi by car, 7 km/4.4 mi hiking); 11 hr. After traveling to Bash Kyungyut by either car or the Bash Kyungyut bus departing from the Sheki bus terminal at 09:00 and 15:00, visit the ruins of the Albanian Church on the edge of the village. Then go to Bideiz by either taxi or local bus to visit the town's two Albanian ruins &mdash; the hiking part comes in here, since the two ruins are 5 km apart. Upon reaching Bideiz village, you can return via car to Shaki.
 * Shaki-Kish-"Gelersen-Gorersen" fortress-Shaki &mdash; 22 km (14 mi) (10 km/6 mi by car or bus, 12 km/8.5 mi hiking); 6 hr. Starting in Shaki city center, take either bus 15 or 23, which run every half hour, and take it to the end of the line. After that, ask a local where Genersen Goresen Fortress is located and continue asking as you walk through the village of Kish. This path takes you from Kish to the "Gelersen-Gorersen fortress" through the Kish river and through pine groves with a plethora of varieties of mushrooms growing in the underbrush. Walking to the fortress takes about two hours. There is a tea house 15 minutes outside of the fortress that can serve as a resting point before going up or once descending from the fortress. Once at the fortress, different views of the Kish River can be seen from the peaks of the mountains. The way back from the mountain is a great time to have a picnic beneath the trees on the hills overlooking the valley. Occasional the border area guards check the people who pass inside the valley just behind Kish, it is recommended to have your passport with you.


 * Shaki-Oraban-Bashkeldek-Keshnazar-Gyurgala-Shaki &mdash; 82 km (51 mi) (78 km/49 mi by car, 4 km/2.5 mi hiking); 12 hr. This road passes through the Keshnazar Valley, where it opens to a very beautiful panorama. Rest at the "Hunter's House" cabin then hike to the ancient fortress at the top of a steep peak. After walking around, you can return to Shaki.
 * Shaki-Ortazeyzit-Bashzeyzit-Quzuyolu-Khanyaylagi-Markhal-Shaki &mdash; 46 km (29 mi) (32 km/20 mi by car, 14 km/9 mi hiking); 13 hours. Take a taxi to Ortazeyzit and then ask where the two churches are. The path that leads to Khan Yaylaghi meanders by two ancient Albanian churches, continues up a long path to the Khan Yaylaghi peak. After reaching Khan Yaylaghi, the Markhal recreation area is near and there are several restaurants that serve delicious kebobs and tea. From this area, Shaki can be reached by car or by walking to the Kish road and boarding the number 15 or 23 bus.

Buy

 * Bazaars The new bazaar is in the western section of the city and is open during daylight. It is a very interesting sight where you can purchase many different handicrafts, food, and spices. It is a good place for a person with proficiency in Azeri, Turkish, or Russian to go and haggle with the shop owners, get a cup of tea, or enjoy some chicken kebabs from one of the vendors.
 * Shebeke (stained glass), carpets, musical instruments, and copper and iron products are sold in the bazaar, all along the road up to the Caravansarai, tourist areas, and also at the Handicraft Association headquarters.
 * Shebeke (stained glass), carpets, musical instruments, and copper and iron products are sold in the bazaar, all along the road up to the Caravansarai, tourist areas, and also at the Handicraft Association headquarters.
 * Silk Shaki is on the Silk Road, and has had a major silk industry for a long time. There is still a silk factory ipək kombinat in the city, from which a great variety of silk items are crafted, one of the most famous being the silk scarves-kalagayi. The scarves range in price from 5-100 manat. Shaki scarves can be purchased at the silk factory, the Caravansarai, or at the bazaar.
 * Water Shaki has just started bottling mineral water from Markhal, an area right outside of the city of Shaki. A bottle is an inexpensive, but refreshing and healthy purchase. Markhal water can be purchased at the market 5 meters up the hill from the central post office and throughout Shaki.

ATMs

 * Bankomats (ATMs) are available all around the main square. If you have a cell phone with either a Bakcell or Azercell sim card, you can recharge your account balance using various ATMs.

Restaurants
In addition to the several great options below, of especial interest to visitors is the excellent restaurant in the very attractive courtyard and gardens of the Caravansarai (Daily 11:00-22:00, 4-6 manat).



Regional specialties



 * Shaki Halva &mdash; a special type of baklava called halva, best eaten at a çay xana (tea house) alongside a piping hot cup of tea. The best halva in Shaki according to all of the locals is Eliehmed Confectioneries (Shirinyyet). It is half way up the hill that goes past the Friday Mosque leading up to the Karavan Palace and the Palace of the Shaki Khans. It is across the bridge on the right hand side in a small white building. There is a sign on the road that says Eliehmed Shirinyyet, so it can not be missed. Daily 10:00-17:00.
 * Shaki Piti &mdash; a stew created with meat and potatoes and prepared in a terra cotta pot&mdash;well worth a try. The style de cuisine is as follows: first crumble up pieces of bread, pour the sauce into the bowl from the pot, eat the bread and sauce, and finally pour the rest of the stew into your bowl and eat it.

Tea houses (Çay Xanalar)
There is a nice outdoor tea house (çay xana) by the Khansarai, Daily 11:00-23:00, that serves tea and halva to people in their own individual nooks. There is also a tea house inside the walls of the Palace of the Shaki Khans which offers plates of the Shaki speciality halva alongside a pot of tea for 2 manat.

Most çay xanalar also serve local beer (piva)&mdash;draft at 50 qapick/glass or bottles at 70 qapick/bottle&mdash;or vodka (araq) at 2 manat/bottle. For anything exotic (e.g. tequila, gin, or rum), you will have to go to the Shaki Saray bar and pay Western prices there.

Cafés
The only good coffee to be found (besides Nescafé or McCafe) is in the lobby of the Shaki Saray Hotel. This is where you can get your favorite espresso concoction made by Western-trained staff. The Café Mocha and Cafe Late here are some of the best hot drinks in the regions of Azerbaijan. They also offer a variety of teas.

There is a good Turkish bakery next to the New Bazaar, where you can eat local pastries. The same items can also be ordered next door at the Istanbul Restaurant, which has a nicer atmosphere. Their tastiest cake is the Snickers Cake, although it is a bit pricey (0.5 manat).

Sleep
You can sleep for pennies in Shaki if you stay in one of the budget options, but you get what you pay for. The lowest-grade options can have rooms with broken toilets, rude staff, etc., in addition to just being ugly. The most obvious overnight location is the Caravansarai hotel, which is reasonably priced and beautiful. Less obvious, but perhaps even more rewarding (for visitors who speak Russian or Azeri) are the home stays.

Bed & breakfast and home stays



 * Shaki B&B Association, . This is the least expensive option for staying in Shaki while it is also a great opportunity for interacting with locals. Farhad Azizov is the head of the association; however, he speaks no English so have your Russian or Azeri ready.

Splurge




Cope

 * Haircuts Women's Salon (Qadin Salonu)/Men's Salon (Kişi Salonu) This is a great way to get to know the local culture while also looking better. Make sure to either bring a photo of what you want your hair to look like or have your Azeri ready. 1-3 manat.

Connect

 * Internet cafes in Azerbaijan are called "internet klubs" and they are found throughout the city of Shaki. The best internet klub is either in the central post office or across the street from the post office. Pay 0.4 manat per hour.
 * Azerbaijan Post locations are dispersed throughout the city of Shaki, but the most obvious one is right on the main square. A typical international letter/stamp combination costs 0.8 manat.

Emergency contact numbers


The city hospital is near the center of Shaki, right across the street from the Drama Theater.

You must speak Azeri, Russian, or Turkish to communicate your needs. It would be a good idea to memorize key phrases before coming to Azerbaijan &mdash; see the Talk section for phrasebooks.

Safety tips

 * Pack a flashlight (especially in fall-spring) as the streets are not always well lit and power cuts are common.
 * Restrict your travel outside of the city to the day time, unless taking a night train. The roads can be treacherous at night due to unseen potholes and dimly lit cars.

Onward

 * Head north through Qax and its Ilisu recreation area, Zaqatala, and Balakan and then cross the border to Georgia at Lagodekhi.
 * Take the Ganja bus and tour Azerbaijan's second biggest city.
 * Head back through Oguz&mdash;and see the waterfalls on your way&mdash;to Baku.