Sharm el-Sheikh

Sharm el-Sheikh (Arabic شرم الشيخ) is a large resort at the south tip of the Sinai Peninsula in Egypt. The main reasons to visit are for scuba-diving and other water and beach activities, and to explore the Sinai desert. Often abbreviated to "Sharm", in Arabic it's pronounced Sharm i-Shaykh: the "Sha" is a sun-letter that absorbs the preceding "el-". It's the most developed and most cosmopolitan of the Sinai resorts.

Understand
Sharm el-Sheikh is at the south tip of a desert peninsula backed by rugged mountains, with no historic trade or pilgrim routes through it, and no mineral wealth. So it remained an insignificant fishing village until the 20th century, when it developed as a naval base to control the shipping lanes east up the Gulf of Aqaba to Jordan and west up the Gulf of Suez to the canal. But that made it a target for military attack. World War II attacks were against the shipping convoys rather than town, Thistlegorm sunk in 1941 being one notable nearby casualty. In 1956 Sinai was occupied by Israel during the Suez conflict, returning to Egyptian control in 1957. The area was again occupied in 1967, this time for 15 years, during which the Israelis developed Sharm as a tourist resort (and to some extent the other small towns along the Sinai coast). A peace deal led to their gradual withdrawal between 1979 and 1982.

By the 1980s Egypt was becoming a mass-tourist destination and Sharm continued to develop. President Hosni Mubarak (in office 1981-2011, died 2020) was very supportive of this; he raked in a dubious fortune from it but it meant that Sharm initially saw little of the turmoil of the "Arab Spring". However, in 2005, 88 were killed by a series of bombs across town, 2006 saw bombings in Dahab, and the long-running Sinai insurgency began in 2011. In 2015 an airliner was downed shortly after take-off from Sharm, killing all 224 aboard. This plus attacks elsewhere across Egypt utterly blighted tourist visits, as they were intended to do. Better security and a lull in attacks led to resumption of tourist flights in late 2019, and the city was just beginning to recover when in 2020, the COVID-19 pandemic again shut down trade.

The climate is very dry, with sometimes no rain all year. Summer days are blisteringly hot and the nights are warm to hot. In winter, the days are shirt-sleeve warm but the nights and the sea are cold: there's often a shimal, a cold wind blowing from the north.

Orientation
The Na'ama Bay part of the city is the center of nightlife and dining: most of Sharm's clubs, cafes, restaurants and shops are here. Na'ama Bay lies midway between Sharm Airport and Old City, nearly 10 minutes driving from each.

Microbuses can take you from downtown, but to reach Na’ama Bay from the airport, you will have to take a cab.

Sharm el Sheikh has grown into three distinct areas now, Nabq is a new area to the north of Na'ama, Old Market and Hadaba to the south of Na'amaa Bay.

Get in
See Sinai for information on the Sinai visit pass, which allows visa-free travel for up to 14 days.

By plane


You will need a visa only if you plan to go out of the Sharm area (such as Ras Mohammed bus or boat, Cairo, St Catherine's). It can be bought on arrival (price seems to vary day to day, make sure you have £25, US$25, or €25 handy.

For departures: timetable shows only nearest 1-2 hours, makes you watch over the row of check-in desks for your flight number.

Airport cafes
Cafes after security check are: Sbarro (overcrowded), Cafe Europa (on the back of the lounge, less crowded): sandwiches, coffee, Egyptian sweets; an outlet of the Caffè Ritazza international chain (also in Athens, Budapest, Madrid, Milan, London, Paris, New York, Stockholm, Zurich, Vienna) is coming soon.

Shops in the airport
After security check: Patisserie offers lukum, halva and other Egyptian sweets.

By boat
Ferry services between Hurghada on the mainland Red Sea Coast and Sharm were suspended in 2018. The high-speed catamarans used to be run by La Pespes.

is along the southern entry road, about 1 km southeast of the old market.

By car or bus
Sharm el-Sheikh can be reached by driving down the eastern coast from Eilat (Israel) via Nuweiba and Dahab, or via the western coast from Cairo. There are daily buses for both routes. From Cairo, East Delta buses take approximately 8 hr (LE80) while Superjet buses take 6 hr. When taking the bus from Cairo, keep your bus ticket and passport handy, as you will pass through a number of checkpoints, which require passengers to present identification and ticket. The drive is interesting with beautiful scenery, throughout the route.

is about a kilometer from Peace Road. If you should arrive during the evening hours your only option may be to take a taxi, as micro-bus service can be spotty. Since Sharm is a tourist-driven economy, you should be prepared to do some bargaining. If you are of the hiking type, it is roughly 20 minutes' walk to the main road. Just ask anyone to point you in the direction of Peace Road. Once at Peace Road you should have no problem hailing down a micro-bus.

When heading to the bus station via micro-bus along Peace Road, tell the driver that you are going to the bus station, and want to be left off at the gas station. This may take some work, given the limited English skills of the drivers. Once at the gas station, you should see micro-buses, which will take you on the final leg. Remember, transfers are not issued, you must pay another fee for the final leg.

About micro-bus fees If your journey is within a kilometer or two, the cost should be about (LE3-5). If your stop is further out, or if you are traveling during the late night hours, be prepared to get a demand for more money, in some cases drivers may demand up to (LE10-20). Demands for higher fees can also take place, if the driver feels he you have money! So, be prepared to negotiate. If the driver's fee is unreasonable, get out — this will often bring down the cost. When arriving, ask a local how much the bus costs before hailing one down. The information provided will give you a base-line price, from which you can bargain with.

By taxi
In Sharm the taxis are generally modern models, either Hyundai or Chevrolet. Don't bother with the meter in the taxi: it probably does not work anymore. They soon break due to the dust, and would work out more than the "fixed" prices anyway. Always note the driver's ID number. The tourist police are very helpful if you have a problem, or quickly realise you left something inside, but only with the taxi number.

Don't assume they have meters. Locals tell you they don't. Make sure you have transportation waiting for you as Sharm el Sheikh airport is the worst part of Egypt for getting a reasonably priced taxi. They will ask for LE150-400 for the 10-minute ride to Nabq. It is easy to make it to the main road, hail a cab and pay LE50-100. Otherwise you will walk away from the experience feeling violated.Check with your hotel if they have a pick-up service.

Check sure you have small notes to pay the fare and never pay before you reach your destination, making sure you only pay the pre-arranged price. Make sure that the driver knows that you are paying in Egyptian pounds and not British pounds. Taxis do not like to take coins.

By bus
There are also a fleet of blue and white tuk-tuks, which are basically small buses, of varying roadworthiness, which are used to ferry the locals around the resort of Sharm el Sheikh. These are a most economical method of transport compared to taxis, which are comparatively expensive. They run on a fixed route from north to south with a diversion to the expat/locals area of Hadaba. To hail a tuk-tuk, wait next to the side of the main street and raise your hand to flag one down as it approaches. When you take the bus, go inside and find a seat and simply pass your money forward to the driver (with the help of other passengers if you sit in the back). The fare should never be more than LE3. If you start asking for the price the driver may very well try to make you pay much more than needed. Do not try to pay in foreign currency. When you arrive at your destination call 'hinna quiis' (here is good). The main tourist center, Naama Bay, is known as Marina (and there is no marina!).

Make sure you have a stash of small coins and notes to pay your fare.

See


Sightseeing and excursions in/from Sharm El Sheikh


 * Sharm Old Town Hail a taxi or local bus to take you to the Sharm Old Town, ask the driver for the old market. This is a much different experience for tourists staying in the Na'ama Bay area. Most of Sharm was built after the Israeli invasion, so don't expect a Moroccan-style 'souk' experience! Ignoring the touts outside each shop make a better experience, unless you are serious about buying. Stay strong in you determination of what to pay.
 * Na'ama Bay is the tourist center of Sharm el-Sheikh, an unusual sight and a bit exotic for a westerner are huge fans pumping fresh air and water to street cafes and terraces near hotels. Na’ama Bay is basically a formation of a large number of hotels and spas, sharing the same beach line.
 * A visit to the desert is highly recommended. Various trips to the Bedouins, the beautiful Colored Canyon, White Canyon, quad bike and buggy safari tours.
 * A visit to the desert is highly recommended. Various trips to the Bedouins, the beautiful Colored Canyon, White Canyon, quad bike and buggy safari tours.
 * A visit to the desert is highly recommended. Various trips to the Bedouins, the beautiful Colored Canyon, White Canyon, quad bike and buggy safari tours.
 * A visit to the desert is highly recommended. Various trips to the Bedouins, the beautiful Colored Canyon, White Canyon, quad bike and buggy safari tours.

The more adventurous should try to find a private guide, who takes them for a few days into the mountain desert with a camel. You will walk through hidden valleys, rest at secret oasis and during the night you sleep under a breathtaking firmament.


 * Boat and snorkeling trips to the beautiful snorkeling sites in Ras Mohammed National Park and Tiran Island. For non-swimmers, the submarine or glass-bottom boat is an ideal alternative to discover the underwater world of the Red Sea.
 * Cultural excursions in Sinai like Saint Catherine's Monastery and Mount Sinai, where, according to tradition, the God spoke to the prophet Moses. Excursions from Sharm el-Sheikh to Cairo, where the famous three pyramids, the Sphinx and the Egyptian National Museum, or to Luxor, the famous capital of ancient Egypt. Other sightseeing excursions include those to neighboring countries to visit sites such as Petra or Jerusalem.
 * Day visit to Dahab Lovely relaxing trip - a totally different vibe to Sharm. One hour away through a mountainous road, best not attempted at night. Taxis should be LE150 each way or LE20 each way from the bus station then a Dahab 'taxi' (pick-up) for LE5-10 into town. Take the number of your driver if you want to leave at a different time. The bridge is in the centre of town with a promenade in each direction.
 * Enjoy the sight and sound experience and the live show at Alf Lela w Lela (A Thousand and One Nights) everyday. the live show is amazing, with different shows featuring other belly dancers. Also some Egyptians weddings, tanourra dance and shows. A bit down at heel but worth a look around.
 * Short trips to Aqua Park, the largest water park in Sharm el-Sheikh, Dolphinella where dolphin shows and dolphin swim takes place and crocodile show.

Diving
Diving is the main activity in Sharm el-Sheikh. When you dive into the warm water of the Red Sea and leave the remote desert behind, you will enter a world full of life and colours. Divers, especially photographers, should be confident with their buoyancy to avoid damaging the fragile coral reef system. Some hotels in Na'ama Bay have cleared the coral reef from their section of beach for tourists to use the water.
 * The reefs of Tiran and Ras Mohammed are known as two of the best diving spots in the world. They can be reached by boat from Sharm within two hours. Ras Mohammed is the southern most point of the Sinai peninsula. There, the current of the Gulf of Aqaba meets the Gulf of Suez. Due to the increase of plankton in the water the amount of fish is incredible. Huge schools of barracudas, sharks and murrays can be seen there every day.
 * The disadvantage of its popularity is that you may find up to 20 boats at the same reef. If you take a daily boat you may enjoy your dive in the company of fifty other dive guides and about 10 divers in each group.


 * The wreck of the SS Thistlegorm is generally regarded as one of the finest wreck dives in the world. However, it can also become very crowded with divers and definitely is an advanced dive due to strong currents and part of the dive is usually in an overhead environment.
 * Smarter divers book a diving safari. This way you avoid the crowds at the popular spots and have the possibility to dive beautiful reefs way beyond the reach of any daytripping boats. The overall costs of a diving safari does not exceed daily diving and it saves you a lot of stress. Check out your chosen boat online and make sure the photos are current!

Operators include



Quad bikes
There are dozens of operators who seem to use just the same route, length and sequence of stops: when you drive, you meet many groups who follow just the same route as yours. There are several really shaky pieces of the route, very much like a washboard.

Wear a long-sleeved shirt; shoes are safer than sandals. Always wear a helmet and make sure your travel insurance covers this activity. Expect all your wear (and skin) to be covered with gray dust.

2 hours of riding is just enough for a non-professional rider; expect several stops along the way. It's ideal to start your ride at 16:00 or later--to catch a sunset and ride back when air is not that hot.

At departure point, choose a bike in the beginning of the motorcade: being one of the first allows to drive faster, and results in less dust.



Make sure you stay on the path and follow your guide, as Egypt has one quarter of the world's landmines buried in its deserts, some of them surprisingly close to Sharm el-Sheikh.

Para sailing
Para sailing is very enjoyable. But, for a ride that is less than 5 minutes, they charge LE260 for 2 persons and LE220 for one person.

Camel trekking
The best place to do this is in the Sinai desert on a tour on camels. After this you can look up at the desert stars at midnight after having a homemade meal cooked by the Sinai people.

Buy
Water in shops cost around LE3-5. Bring your sunscreen, because they cost LE80-200 anywhere in town, if you are without tan, shopkeeper will sell you one at very bad price - welcome to Egypt.

Na'ama Bay has very forceful sellers and caution should taken by the naive tourist who accepts a "free gift" (nothing in Egypt is free) or falls for the "come and sign my guest book" in a shop, only to be locked in. When shopping, it is best not to speak to any sellers who engage you unless you are sure that you are going to buy something. This allows you some degree of hassle-free walking (as they do not know what language you speak).

Opening hours are variable, but most shops are open in the early to late afternoon and in the evening. If you are looking for a reprieve from the hassle and haggling, there's a Carrefour Express supermarket with fixed prices. Coming from the bay, it's hidden behind one of the Malls, at Golden Pyramid Mall – on Peace Road. The selection is limited, but all the staples are available without hassle. You just have to make it through the crowds of vendor touts to get there.



Eat
If you need a break from resort food try one of the local places below. If you're looking for a taste of home, Il Mercato houses a McDonald's, KFC, Pizza Hut, Costa and a Starbucks. Manchow Wok has nice Chinese food and is opposite Stella, the only place to drink in El Mercato.

Na'ama Bay is amusing, especially at night, where lights of Bedouin-style and modern restaurants, café shops, and other 'bazaars' are glittering. Pork is not sold, even when it is advertised on a menu (it is actually a salted beef). A 10-15% service charge will be added to any bill.

Drink
For nightlife, Na'ama Bay offers several clubs: The Pacha, Little Buddha and Hard Rock Cafe. (Yes, the latter is one of the chain.) There are countless bars and the pedestrian walkways offer many coffee houses where you may also enjoy a shisha along with some people watching.

Alcohol (including beer) is available in restaurants and street cafes. Travellers must be aware that taxes are now levied on alcoholic drinks that are purchased in cafes or bars that are not associated with the hotels. Drinks can be relatively expensive, compared to those in European destinations. Always ask to see a drinks menu before ordering a drink. Check in the Naama Bay cafes that you will not be charged 'entrance' and to watch the 'floor show' (bad dancing). Tea and coffee is around LE15-25, make sure you are paying sensible prices.

Fresh Guava juice is a must-try, excellent in any cafe, along with Bedouin or Mint tea.



Sleep
Most hotels in Sharm, particularly in the Na'ama Bay area cater for package tourists. There are mostly 3-6 star all-inclusive hotels and there are very few (if any) budget options. Generally it is best to knock a star off the official rating to avoid disappointment. Renting privately owned apartments is economical, but they vary in facilities.

Nabq or Montaza area it is quite a distance to the north (12 km) from Na'ama Bay and Old Market, so you either are tied to their all-included ration, or need to pay for taxi for every dinner in Na'ama (although taxi is inexpensive from most of hotels, or take the hotel courtesy bus). You do have Soho Square and the 'Mall Strip' of Nabq area of all inclusive Hotels.

For hotels in Na'ama Bay, their territory is frequently crossed by a pedestrian street, so the beach may appear across the street from the hotel building--obviously affecting privacy even when using a hotel's pool. The zebra crossings on the main roads are best ignored as the drivers have no idea what they are for! Check your choice out on Google maps to see if it is really near a beach as some are set back from the water some distance, although they do have shuttle buses (some of which incur local fees).

Splurge


The super-luxury resorts:



Stay safe
As of 2023, Sharm El-Sheikh is generally considered the safest place to be in the Sinai Peninsula. Police and the Egyptian Miliary have installed a wall around the city and there are military/police checkpoints even on the main streets. Each vehicle is checked before entering the city.

Mild food poisoning, the so-called traveler's diarrhea and stomach-ache is common among the European travelers. Tap water is not drinkable, but considered safe for tooth-brushing and showering. Always drink bottled water. Avoid food that is not cooked in front of you or likely have been stored for days without proper refrigeration. Cheese, salads, vegetables, yoghurts, mushrooms, fresh fruit juices are potentially not stored properly and therefore would cause diarrhea/stomach-ache.

There have been several fatal shark attacks, however, if you keep in mind the following, there is little-to-no-chance that you would be exposed to danger:
 * Always swim near the coastline and with more people.
 * Do not go swimming during the night, early in the morning or after sunset as the animals in the sea get more active during these times and the sharks may confuse you for another animal.
 * Do not go swimming near ports or places where the sea is unpredictable.

Go next

 * Dahab is a small and relaxing resort 90 km north of Sharm, with snorkelling, diving and other sports. The signature dive is the "Blue Hole".
 * Cairo and especially Giza has all the classical sights of ancient Egypt. Lots of day trips but it deserves several days to explore.
 * Hurghada, if the ferry from Sharm resumes, puts you on the road to fabulous Luxor.