Selçuk

Selçuk is a town in the Central Aegean region of Turkey, with a population of 36,360 in 2018. It's the original site of the city of Ephesus - those Roman ruins lie 4 km west and are described on a separate page.

Understand
An unremarkable mound 2 km south indicates settlement hereabouts from 7000 BC, the very oldest of towns. Ancient Ephesus was a port on the coast, above a wetland estuary, but the river continually shifted its course and silted up so the city struggled to retain its sea access, vital to its prosperity. The wetland was also none too good for human health or for building on, and from about 290 AD Ephesus migrated 3 km west and downstream. There it was embellished in the Roman era into the remarkable place that draws tourists to this day. It was also a major religious centre, with an early Christian population.

The new Ephesus in turn fell into ruin as the coast continued to retreat - the sea is now 15 km away at the resort of Kuşadası. A backwater settlement continued, as there was a fertile hinterland with overland routes. From the 10th century the area fell under the control of the Selçuk Turkish dynasty, from which the modern town takes its name. They were supplanted in the 14th by the Ottomans. The town never became large or industrial so many of its antiquities were preserved.

By plane
The nearest commercial airport is Izmir Adnan Menderes, which has daily flights from Istanbul and Ankara, and occasionally from Europe. It's 55 km north of Selçuk, and both are on the IZBAN suburban railway so you don't have to travel into central Izmir and out again - see below.

The IZBAN railway extension, completed in 2017, took away most of the traffic from the local dolmuşes and airport shuttles, so these are nowadays less frequent.

By train
Selçuk is the south terminus of IZBAN the Izmir suburban railway. The Green Line runs north-south from Aliağa (for Bergama), Hatundre (for Foça), downtown Izmir (where Hilal is the main interchange), Adnan Menderes Airport, and Tepeköy where you change to the Southern Extension train every 90 min to Selçuk. The trip from downtown is about an hour. Consider buying an İzmirim Kart.

A TCDD regional train (look for bölgesel) runs six times a day from Izmir Basmane via the airport and Tepeköy, taking 90 min to Selçuk and continuing via Çamlık, Aydın and a dozen other places to Denizli (another 3 hr, for Pamukkale).

The Göller Express also calls at Selçuk on the way between Isparta and Izmir, but in the early hours of the morning.



By bus
Buses run six times a day direct from Istanbul Esenler, taking 8-9 hours via Izmir, for a fare in 2022 of 520 TL. Operators are Pamukkale and Flixbus. Or you may find it more convenient to change in Izmir, which has frequent buses round the clock from Istanbul, Ankara and elsewhere.

Frequent dolmuşes from Izmir and buses from Pamukkale pass through town.



Get around
Dolmuşes towards Kuşadası pass the lower gate of Ephesus. To reach the House of Mary look for a tour, else you may need to take a taxi.

Rented motorbikes or scooters can be a fun way to explore the area around Selçuk. Or cycle, but Şirince and the House of Mary are up in the hills.

ESHOT Bus 770 runs from Selçuk via Belevi (for Goat Castle) to Torbalı (for Izban) M-F hourly and Sa Su every 2 hours. It's cashless so you need an Izmirim Kart.

In town

 * , once renowned as one of the "Seven Wonders" of the ancient world, is just a reconstructed solitary column, free to access. This stood in "Temple E", the fifth known structure, built 350-250 BC on a difficult swampy site, and the high water table has impeded excavation. Artemis was the Grecian deity known as Diana to the Romans, presiding over virginity, fertility, childbirth, the moon and hunting, a combination all the more remarkable given the size of her noisy entourage. She gives her name to the Artemis project to land a crewed spacecraft at the moon's south pole in 2024.
 * The aqueduct ruins are Byzantine and stand 15 m tall, coursing west from the railway station towards Ayasuluk hill. They're crowned with storks' nests and floodlit at night.
 * İsabey Hamam was the associated bathhouse 100 m south of the mosque. It's dilapidated and fenced off.
 * The aqueduct ruins are Byzantine and stand 15 m tall, coursing west from the railway station towards Ayasuluk hill. They're crowned with storks' nests and floodlit at night.
 * İsabey Hamam was the associated bathhouse 100 m south of the mosque. It's dilapidated and fenced off.
 * İsabey Hamam was the associated bathhouse 100 m south of the mosque. It's dilapidated and fenced off.

Further out

 * off D550 is the usual entry point to that complex, but you can enter or exit by either.
 * is usually the exit, but it's on D515 with public transport so you might enter that way.
 * means "mound in the valley" which sums it up: it's not much to look at, but is important. This tell is the heaped remains of settlements back to 7000 BC, at the dawn of Anatolian civilisation. It was excavated 2006-2016 and you may see its findings in the town museum.
 * 12 km south of town has a railway museum, with a great collection of old steam locomotives. It's open daily 08:30-17:30 and you can get there by train.
 * is so bad it's almost fascinating. It's a cod-classical photo set so that couples can have their wedding photos taken as if at Ephesus but without the milling tourists, dust and trash to spoil the image - how come the ancient city architects never thought of this? The site is closed in 2022.
 * is a village on the bus and rail route to Izmir. 3 km east of it, the Belevi Mausoleum is a royal burial vault from around 300 BC. On the hill west is the ruin of Keçi Kalesi, Goat Castle.
 * is a picturesque village in the hills 9 km east of Selçuk, see separate page.
 * is a village on the bus and rail route to Izmir. 3 km east of it, the Belevi Mausoleum is a royal burial vault from around 300 BC. On the hill west is the ruin of Keçi Kalesi, Goat Castle.
 * is a picturesque village in the hills 9 km east of Selçuk, see separate page.

Do

 * Beach: Pamucak is closest, the most northerly of the Kuşadası resort strip. Follow D515 west, and continue west when the highway turns sharply south.
 * Skydive: Efes centre and airfield are next to Ephesus north gate. The usual jump for a beginner is a tandem freefall coupled to an instructor, so minimum training, fitness and skill are needed.

Buy

 * Lots of small supermarkets, Migros is the main chain. They're mostly open daily 08:00-22:00.
 * Carpet shops: half a dozen cluster near the museum, including Lonca, Alibaba's, Blacksheep and Can Carpet.

Eat

 * West of the railway station is the main concentration, with Nur, Ejder (below), Okumus Mercan, Köşem, Efes, Köylum, Seçkin Firuze, Tat Cafe, Eski Ev, Dönercim Ümit, Pınar Pide & Çöp Şiş and Gaziantep Kebab Salonu.
 * West of Atatürk Cd near the museum are Ali Baba & Mehmet Kebab House (below), Agora, Selçuk Pidecisi, Amazon Cafe Bistro and Ayasoluk Hotel Restaurant.
 * West of Atatürk Cd near the museum are Ali Baba & Mehmet Kebab House (below), Agora, Selçuk Pidecisi, Amazon Cafe Bistro and Ayasoluk Hotel Restaurant.

Drink

 * Town centre between highway and railway station has Deniz, Dolphin (below), Pink Bistro (below) and Cessna Bistro.
 * Around the museum are Nazdrave, Destine and Skopje Otantic (below).
 * Efes beer is named for nearby Ephesus and is the most popular beer in Turkey, a Pilsener-type pale lager. The brand is owned by Anadolu Efes, founded in 1969, who have five breweries in Turkey (the nearest is in Izmir) and others in Russia, Ukraine, Georgia, Moldova and Kazakhstan. Efes is a reliable choice for drinking by itself on a hot day or to accompany a meal.
 * Around the museum are Nazdrave, Destine and Skopje Otantic (below).
 * Efes beer is named for nearby Ephesus and is the most popular beer in Turkey, a Pilsener-type pale lager. The brand is owned by Anadolu Efes, founded in 1969, who have five breweries in Turkey (the nearest is in Izmir) and others in Russia, Ukraine, Georgia, Moldova and Kazakhstan. Efes is a reliable choice for drinking by itself on a hot day or to accompany a meal.
 * Efes beer is named for nearby Ephesus and is the most popular beer in Turkey, a Pilsener-type pale lager. The brand is owned by Anadolu Efes, founded in 1969, who have five breweries in Turkey (the nearest is in Izmir) and others in Russia, Ukraine, Georgia, Moldova and Kazakhstan. Efes is a reliable choice for drinking by itself on a hot day or to accompany a meal.
 * Efes beer is named for nearby Ephesus and is the most popular beer in Turkey, a Pilsener-type pale lager. The brand is owned by Anadolu Efes, founded in 1969, who have five breweries in Turkey (the nearest is in Izmir) and others in Russia, Ukraine, Georgia, Moldova and Kazakhstan. Efes is a reliable choice for drinking by itself on a hot day or to accompany a meal.

Connect
Selçuk and its approach highways, and ancient Ephesus, have 4G from all Turkish carriers. As of July 2022, 5G has not rolled out in Turkey.

Go next

 * Izmir is a busy modern city with lots to see and do.
 * Bergama is the site of ancient Pergamon, a well-preserved acropolis.
 * Sardis, another of the "Seven Churches of Asia", has another Temple of Artemis plus gymnasium and synagogue.
 * East is the fertile valley of the Küçükmenderes River, with old towns such as Tire, Ödemiş and Birgi the most picturesque.
 * Aphrodisias is an extensive site east reached via Nazilli.
 * Kuşadası is the raucous beach resort only 15 km west.
 * The three archeological sites of Priene, Miletus and Didyma are over the hill south of Kuşadası.
 * Denizli is the transport hub you pass through on the way to Pamukkale geothermal travertine pools.
 * Bodrum is the next big resort heading down the Aegean coast.