Sehwan

Sehwan is one of the oldest towns of the province of Sindh, in Pakistan. It is highly respected in interior Sindh, well known for the resting place of the great mystic poet, saint and scholar, Lal Shahbaz Qalandar, who lived here in 13th century. The famous and beautiful shrine of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar attracts thousands of faithful devotees throughout the year, especially during the annual Urs, making it an important pilgrimage site both for Muslims and Hindus.

Understand
It is possible that the name Sehwan originates from "Siwistan" or "Seevistan", the kingdom of Raja Dahir which even extended to Punjab under the name "Shivi". Sehwan was significant enough during the 8th century to be conquered by Muhammad bin Qasim in 711, and two centuries later by Mahmud of Ghazni. An abortive attempt was made by the Mughal emperor Humayun to capture it on his way to Umarkot but it finally fell to his son Akbar. Before this, it was the capital of the Thatta Kingdom under Juni Bek.

Today, Sehwan, popularly known as Sehwan Sharif is known throughout Pakistan due to being the location of shrine of Sufi patron saint Syed Usman Marwandi (born in Marand, Iran in 1117 - 1274) popularly known as Lal Shahbaz Qalandar who preached religious tolerance among people of many religious particularly Muslims and Hindus and therefore his mysticism attracted people from many religions. He was called Lal (red) after his usual red attire, Shahbaz to denote a noble and divine spirit, and Qalandar for his Sufi affiliation.

Shahbaz's dedication to the knowledge about various religious disciplines, enabled him to become a profound scholar, eventually. He became fluent in many languages, including, Pashto, Persian, Turkish, Arabic, Sindhi and Sanskrit. Lal Shahbaz lived a celibate life and died in the year 1274 at the age of 97.

By bus
Sehwan lies on National Highway N-55, (the Indus Highway). The 1264-kilometer-long N-55 runs between Karachi and Peshawar and one can easily get a bus for Sehwan from cities that are along the highway. Buses and vans, air-conditioned and non-air conditioned, are easily available throughout the day from the major cities of Sindh, and they can also be hailed at the highway.

Get around
There's no formal system of public transportation in Sehwan. Shared motorcycle rickshaws remain the only way to get around the city if you're not driving a car. They can be found on the streets, on the bus stops on N-55 and outside the shrine of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar. They are extremely cheap mode to travel. A trip between bus stop on N-55 or railway station and shrine or Shahi bazaar takes only Rs 20. Expect to travel in sharing mode otherwise pay Rs 100 and the driver will not take another passenger on the rickshaw.

Walking is the best option within the central parts of the city. However as in many other cities in Pakistan, the streets can be quite chaotic.

Buy
The Shahi bazaar of Sehwan is a long alleyway houses plenty of shop. The bazaar is the only marketplace of Sehwan and can be good place to hunt down the Sindhi handicraft and souvenirs. The bazaar is considered the oldest bazaar and surely gives a good example of a traditional bazaars of the region and worth to take a stroll. Open in the morning at around 9AM and closes at night.

There's a small market outside the shrine of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar which remains open 24 hours sell sweet candies, dry fruit, garlands and green chadar (shawl)"

Eat
There're many basic restaurants scattered throughout in this small town of Sehwan, all severing basic Pakistani food although not all are hygienic. Expect to pay minimum Rs 200 for a single dish wherever and whatever you eat. Restaurants outside the shrine of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar remains open 24 hours.



Sleep
There are plenty of small and big lodgings in town ranging from typical musafirkhana (rest house where Charpai, a traditional woven bed used in Indian subcontinent can be hired for a night sleep) to simple and basic hotels scattered throughout in this small town of Sehwan but mostly scattered outside and near the shrine. A double room sometimes without bed, but cable TV, attach bath can be hired for Rs 1,000 without air-conditioned during the off-peak season of the year. Whereas during peak season on the annual Urs, the prices of accommodation soar up-to as high as Rs 15,000 for a double room for three night stays. Ask to check the room first before checking in, to see whether the room meets your expectations.



Go next

 * Mohenjo-daro — an ancient city not to be missed by history buffs
 * Larkana