Schmallenberg

Schmallenberg is a rural area in the Sauerland region of South Westphalia. Marketed as Schmallenberger Sauerland, it is a recognised health resort and popular vacation destination for hiking, winter sports, and other outdoor activities.

Understand
Schmallenberg is the third-largest municipality in North Rhine-Westphalia after Cologne and Münster, with a population of 25,000 in 2020, 6,100 of whom live in the main town. Of course that's only if you go by area – it's also remarkably sparse in population compared to most other parts of NRW. The municipality covers more than 300 km² and consists of the town and about 80 villages and hamlets that were incorporated into Schmallenberg in 1975. The whole area shares a single postal code (57392) and street addresses will not tell you whether a place is located in the core town Schmallenberg or far away in one of the surrounding villages.

History
Archaeological records suggests that the area has been inhabited since the iron age (around 200 BC). Remains of a hillfort from that time can still be seen on top of the Wilzenberg mountain to the east of the town. Written records start with the foundation of the Grafschaft Abbey at the foot of the same mountain in 1072. For its protection, a small castle (Smale Burg in contemporary language) was constructed on a ridge above the Lenne river around 1200. Over time, the castle disappeared, but a fortified settlement remained and gained city rights in 1244.

The current appearance of the historic core city was shaped in the 19th century, after in 1822 a fire destroyed the city almost completely sparing no more than 16 houses and the church. As a consequence, the city was rebuild with not one but two unusually wide main roads, so that future fires would not spread so easily. The architecture from that time takes a local spin on the contemporary Prussian classicism by including traditional elements such as black timber framing and slate-covered roofs and walls. More traditional architecture can still be found in many of the older villages.

From the 19th century on, and especially after World War II, Schmallenberg became the center of the local textile industry. Most competitors from that era did not survive the age of globalization, though. Only Falke is still going strong, focusing on high-end socks, stockings, and other knitwear. Still producing locally, the company is one of the most important employers – and the reason the city proudly wears its nickname Strumpfstadt: City of Stockings.

Landscape
Schmallenberg's landscape is typical for a German Mittelgebirge. Its rolling hills and medium high mountains range from about 330 to 830 metres above sea level. In the valleys along the clear creeks, you will find many small villages with their typical black and white houses. The lower elevations are characterised by agricultural use. In the spring, canola fields and meadows full of dandelions form oceans of yellow flowers. Later in the year, wheat and corn dominate the scene. On the poorer, shallower soils higher up, plantations of Christmas trees (an important export commodity) are a common sight. The ridges and mountain tops are covered by a mix of old spruce and beech forests as well new forest developing on former clear cuts.

The landscape's modern day appearance is the result of a long history. Formerly covered in ancient beech forests, the region was largely deforested over the centuries, leading to soil degradation and acidification. In the late 18th century, high demand for wood led to rapid re-forestation with monocultures of fast-growing spruce trees. These would characterize the higher elevations for the following 200 years until the early 21st century.

This changed rapidly when, during a single night in 2007, winter storm Kyrill wiped out entire forests of the flat-rooted spruce. Residents and long-term regular visitors were equally shocked, but soon learned to appreciate the new views and increased diversity in the recovering landscape. From the late 2010s on, rising temperatures and prolonged drought facilitated a devastating spread of the bark beetle, destroying large parts of the remaining spruce forests. As forest owners ponder their options facing climate change, many see this as a chance to reconsider and move towards a more natural and robust forest structure.

Tourism
Like the rest of the mountainous parts of the Sauerland, Schmallenberg is a popular holiday location. City folk from the Ruhr love to come for a couple of days in nature. Yellow license plates from the Netherlands are a common sight, especially in winter. The main tourist information centre is located in Schmallenberg, and there's another one in Bad Fredeburg:



Guests who stay over night will be issued a https://www.schmallenberger-sauerland.de/en/interesting-facts/schmallenberger-sauerland-card Schmallenberger SauerlandCard] by their hosts. It gives you considerable discounts on public transport and most tourist attractions in Schmallenberg. The card also includes everything the regular SauerlandCard offers, encouraging you to also visit the neighbouring regions of the Sauerland.

By car
There is no Autobahn nearby, so expect between 45 min to 2 hr of cross-country driving, depending on where you're coming from. Below are a couple of suggestions for commonly used routes from different directions. These are using high-level Bundesstraße type roads as much as possible for easy driving and navigation.

From north-westerly directions, e.g. coming from the Ruhr Area, Münsterland, or the Netherlands, Schmallenberg can be reached quite conveniently. Exit the A 46 in Enste or Meschede and follow the B 55 and B 511 south.

Coming from Cologne, a common route is to take the A 4 and A 45 to Olpe, from where you'll follow the B 55, L 715, and B 236 via Bilstein and Lennestadt-Altenhundem. This route also works well when you're coming from southerly places like Frankfurt or even Nuremberg. There are other options from this direction that are shorter, but as they all cross the Rothaar mountains on curvy roads rather than going around them via Autobahn, they do not offer much in terms of travel time or fuel efficiency.

Coming from the south on the A 7 or from the east on the A 4 (e.g. from Erfurt), a common route is to merge onto the A 5 and then almost immediately exit in Alsfeld-Ost. From there, follow the B 62 and B 252 to Münchhausen, from where the B 236 will take you to Schmallenberg via Hallenberg and Winterberg. The first part of this is not much fun to drive due to the high number of trucks and speed cameras along the B 62, so if you have time to spare maybe consider a slower alternative through the countryside.

Coming from easterly places like Leipzig, there's no really convenient route available either. You can take the A 44 west from Kassel and after a short while take exit Zierenberg to get on the B 251 towards Korbach. From there it's various local roads until Winterberg and then the B 236 to Schmallenberg.

From the northeast, you can aim for Bestwig and then take the L 776 (locally named Heringhauser Straße) south towards Bad Fredeburg.

By bus
Schmallenberg is part of the Regionalverkehr Ruhr-Lippe (RLG) Network. The town is connected to the surrounding cities through a number of hourly bus connections: Flixbus has a stop in Schmallenberg-Bödefeld, that is served by a single route from Amsterdam via Arnhem and the Ruhr area.
 * Winterberg via line S40, travel time 1 hour
 * Eslohe via line R96, travel time 30 minutes
 * Meschede via line S90, travel time 1 hour
 * Lennestadt-Altenhundem via line SB9, travel time 30 minutes

By train
The city is not directly accessibly by train. The closest train stations are in Lennestadt-Altenhundem, Meschede, Winterberg, and Aue-Wingeshausen.

On foot
There are several long-distance hiking trails passing through Schmallenberg. The E1 Long Distance Path passes though some of the most beautiful villages in the area. The 157-km Rothaarsteig that connects Brilon and Dillenburg runs along the ridge of the Rothaar mountains in the South. The 251-km Sauerland-Höhenflug cuts through the municipality from east to west.

By bike
Schmallenberg is connected to Lennestadt and Eslohe through the Sauerland Cycle Circuit (SauerlandRadring), a looped scenic bike road running largely on former railway lines. There's also a northern extension that connects to the Ruhr Valley Cycle Path (Ruhrtalradweg). The Lenneroute, a 142-km bike route from Winterberg to Hagen along the Lenne river also passes through Schmallenberg.

By plane
There are no airports with scheduled traffic close-by. For business jets and the like, Siegerland airport is the closest option. The local airfield will do fine for most sports planes, but if your MOTM exceeds 3 t Meschede (ICAO: EDKM) can be an alternative.

By car
Usually, taking the car will be the most convenient way to get around. Depending on your vehicle and driving experience, the curvy mountain roads (although usually well maintained) can be a bit challenging – especially in winter.

Roadside parking in the core of Schmallenberg is free, but limited to two hours at daytime. If you plan to stay longer, consider the behind the Stadthalle, which is both free and unlimited. In Bad Fredeburg, the large behind the Kurhaus usually is a good choice. Residential areas and villages are generally safe to park in too – the largest danger would be giant tractors squeezing through, so make sure to leave some space. Outside the settlements, there are plenty of parking lots for hikers (Wanderparkplatz) placed strategically close to the trail heads.

As of 2024, public charging stations for electrical cars are still quite sparse in the villages, but more and more are popping up in the core city. Hotels are also increasingly recognizing the demand.

International car rental companies are notably absent from the area. Instead, rental cars are available from the rental services of German car manufacturers through car dealers like Gierse & Schöllmann (VW Euromobil) or Müller (Opel Rent), as well as from local rental company Metek.

On foot
Most villages are small enough to be conquered on foot, and the same is true for the historical centre of Schmallenberg. Outside the buildup areas, there are hiking routes galore (see Do section). Although the terrain can be steep sometimes, heavy mountain boots are by no means required here. Something waterproof is still a good idea, though, as heavy forestry vehicles can turn certain sections into a mud-fest after rain. But if the weather is fair, a pair of light trail shoes will suffice on most occasions, as many routes follow the forestry roads and smaller paths are well-maintained.

By bike
Historically, bikes were never really a viable option for anything but sports and child's play. That's partially because of the sweat-inducing terrain, but also because cars and bikes do not work well together on the curvy roads. But the rise of pedelecs and e-bikes negates the former, and the authorities have started to work on the latter by building a network of dedicated bike paths between the villages. Today, renting a bike is a great way to explore the area as long as you stay away from the major roads. Get an electrified mountain bike, and there's hardly any place you cannot reach on two wheels.

By bus
There are three types of scheduled bus services available, all of them can be used free of charge with the Sauerland Card:
 * Regional RLG bus lines.
 * Local Bürgerbus (citizen bus) lines: small buses driven by volunteer drivers connect some of those villages that otherwise would be without public transport at all.
 * Touristic Wanderbus (hiking bus) lines three times a day circle around the villages that offer popular hiking opportunities. They can also carry your bike, but you'll have to call at least one day ahead to make a reservation.

By cab
Pretty much the only reason the average able-bodied local would ever consider taking a taxi here is for getting home from the pub or Schützenfest at the neighbor village late at night. If you intend to take a cab home at this time, plan ahead and call well in advance. There are only two regular taxi companies in the city: Taxi Spieler and Taxi Habbel.

There are a couple of on-demand shuttle services available to Sauerland Card holders for only €2 per ride and person (€1 for children). The Ruf-Taxen operate on fixed routes three times a day, and the Wander-Taxen complement the Wanderbus on weekends. See the Wanderbus brochure (in German) for schedules and phone numbers or ask your host for assistance.

By plane
Schmallenberg-Rennefeld airfield (see Get in) is a great home base for cross-country flights in light aircraft and gliders. There is much to see, few airspace restrictions around and plenty of other little airfields to discover. For the motor-less, the terrain makes for good thermals; and if the wind blows just right across the ridge of the Rothaar Mountains, you may find yourself in the lucky position to enjoy the quiet lift of a lee wave.

Fine arts
The core town of Schmallenberg is stuffed to the brim with all kinds of sculptures, and even in the villages you may find them here and there.

Churches, chapels, and and the like
The catholic church has played a major role throughout the history of the region. Almost every village has an old church or at least a little white chapel to discover, and most of them are unlocked throughout the day. Most notable are probably the 13th century Romanesque churches in Berghausen and Wormbach.

Most villages will also have a Way of Sorrows ("Kreuzweg") with 14 little shrines illustrating the "stations of the cross" going up an adjacent hill with yet another white chapel on top. Even away from the villages, it is almost impossible to go for a walk without coming across some sort of hand-carved wooden cross or a little shrine dedicated some kind of saint.



Outdoor activities
Hiking is very popular among visitors and locals alike. Whether you'd like to take a quick walk around the village or lust for a multi-day trail, there's something available for almost anyone. General information is available from the tourist information's webpages. An interactive online map with detailed information on individual routes plus gpx and kml downloads are available from the region's official portal at outdooractive.com. For mobile phones, it is suggested to use the dedicated smartphone apps for the South Westphalia region (free for iphone and android). Paper maps with 1:25.000 scale and hillshading are available at the tourist information in Schmallenberg and the online shop. Routes are usually well-maintained and clearly marked. If you don't know where to start, maybe consider one of the Golddorf trails that circle around some of the most beautiful villages in the region.

Schmallenberg has a lot to offer in terms of winter sports. If the conditions are right, there are dozens of lifts and about 400 km of prepared cross-country trails available (PDF map). And if it's just not quite cold enough, nearby Winterberg up the mountain range can usually still squeeze a few flakes out of their snow machines.

Buy
For a town of its size, Schmallenberg still maintains a remarkable selection of independent, family-owned shops and stores along its parallel main streets, the Weststraße and the Oststraße.

Eat
As you would expect in a rural area with many hard-working people, the local cuisine always had a certain focus on getting calories on the table. Many restaurants offer local game from the forests and trout from the creeks. On the other end of the culinary spectrum, things are steadily improving, though. Vegetarians should be able to get by quite well nowadays, while vegans may still have to look around a bit to find something appealing.

Cafés
Whether you need to re-fuel on your hike or something to do on a rainy afternoon, Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) in one the local Cafés is a great way to enjoy the countryside.

Drink
This is the country side. Which means that there are no clubs, period. There are a couple of decent pubs in Schmallenberg and Bad Fredeburg, but other than that, most of the drinking tends to happen in someone's backyard or at some kind of cultural or not-so-cultural event.

Events
In the summer months, there's always a Schützenfest going on somewhere.

Sleep
In terms of accommodation, Schmallenberg has something to offer for almost everyone. There are fancy four-star hotels, cozy inns, holiday homes, and camping grounds; almost all of them family-owned. The Ferienhof (vacation farm, see Agritourism) concept has proven particularly popular with families: Around the turn of the century, some farmers began to abandon agriculture as their main source of income. Keeping only a small stock of animals, they converted their barns and stables into guest rooms and offered them to stressed-out city-dwellers looking for peace and quiet. Nowadays, there are several of these family-run businesses embedded in the villages, offering a gently romanticized version of farm life in a child-friendly environment.

Connect
Mobile phone connectivity has been improved during the past years, but is still worse than you might expect in Germany. In the core city, 4G mobile network is reliably available. In some of the more remote villages and mountainous areas, however, the signal can be weak or even non-existent.

A couple of local businesses have joined the Freifunk initiative of the neighboring City of Winterberg, offering free WiFi hotspots for anyone (map available here).

Stay healthy
In case of a medical emergency, do not hesitate to call – depending on where you are, it may take quite a while for an ambulance to reach you. The Fachkrankenhaus Kloster Grafschaft's emergency ward is your first address for things like strokes, chest pains, lung problems and allergic reactions. For major injuries, you'll probably be taken to St. Josefs in Lennestadt-Altenhundem or St. Franziskus in Winterberg.

The region boast a total of 5 state-recognized health resorts (Kurorte). The core town as well as the villages of and   are recognised for their clear air and thus classified as a ''Luftkurort. '' has a long history of treating miners from the Ruhrgebiet for their occupational lung diseases. Today it is known for its healthy climate and a highly specialised lung clinic. Finally, is a recognised spa town that offers traditional Kneipp hydrotherapy.



Stay safe
The local police station is located in Bad Fredeburg, not in Schmallenberg as one might expect.



Go next

 * Winterberg for more hiking and skiing
 * Bestwig for the Fort Fun theme park and a tour through the Ramsbeck mine