Savukoski

Savukoski is a municipality in Finnish Lapland. Having an area of 6,496.50 km², more than twice that of Luxembourg, but only 1,000 inhabitants, it is the least densely populated municipality in Finland. The area is generally very remote and travelling around without a car is at least challenging. For a person who wants to calm down in nature this is one of the primary destinations. Most visitors come here for fishing, hunting or hiking.

According to Finnish tradition Joulupukki (Father Christmas) lives in the Korvatunturi fell, which is in northern Savukoski.

Understand


The oldest archaeological findings are dated to 300 BC. Christianity was introduced during the 17th century to the nomadic Sámi people living here. The first Finnish settlers arrived in the 1690s and the Sámi were gradually integrated or pushed away; the municipality is not part of the current "Sámi native region", which starts in northern Sodankylä. Little is written about the history of the region before the 20th century.

In the beginning of the 20th century the forest industry had become the most important business in Finland and there were thousands of square kilometres of untouched forest in Savukoski. Chief forester Hugo Richard Sandberg bought two modified steam locomotives from the United States, brought them to Tulppio village and started massive loggings. The locomotives greatly improved the log transportation but the loggings soon ceased by World War I and never continued. These locomotives are now preserved; one is still in Tulppio and the other one in Lapland Forestry Museum in Rovaniemi.

During the World War II the area suffered sabotage by Soviet partisan troops. Especially, the partisans committed massacres in Kuosku in September 1941 and September 1942, and in Seitajärvi in July 1944. Later, during the Lapland War, the retreating German troops burned virtually all the villages into ashes.

Present day Savukoski is all about wilderness. The nature consists of endless forests, vast mires and lonely treeless fells. One third of the municipality's total area belongs to some kind of nature conservation area. The vast is one of the most visited national parks in Finland, but most enter the park from other directions. The is an important mire and old-growth forests reserve without marked trails. Tuntsa Wilderness Area has a trail and beautiful and easy terrain. Maltio Strict Nature Reserve and Värriö Strict Nature Reserve are closed to the public; to enter these you need a written permission from the Finnish Forest Administration and such permission is given for scientific reasons only. The University of Helsinki runs a biological research station inside the Värriö Reserve.

Even though significance of tourism has grown, Savukoski is a fairly rural community. Reindeer husbandry and collecting wild berries are important sources of income to many locals. There is a huge phosphate reserve in Sokli and debate whether or not a phosphate quarry should be opened has continued for decades. It would bring employment and money but possible adverse effects towards nature and reindeer herding are a serious issue.

The climate is quite continental. In winter temperatures as low as -30 C are fairly common. July is the warmest month.

The municipality is unilingually Finnish speaking. English is widely understood, as elsewhere in Finland.



Get in
The nearest airport is in Rovaniemi and the nearest railway stations are in Rovaniemi and Kemijärvi.

There are a few daily coach connections from Rovaniemi and Kemijärvi to the main village, some leaving just before the train arrives. They usually go via Sodankylä or Salla, though a shortcut from Pelkosenniemi is possible. Mostly you've got to change buses once or twice, sometimes with substantial waiting time. A coach ticket from Rovaniemi costs €30–50/adult (3½–7 hr), from Kemijärvi €25–40 (2–4½ hr). Use Matkahuolto travel search for timetables – but you may have to try around to find the connections; Kemijärvi train station may give zero hits although the bus passes by.

Most of the "coaches" are minibuses, sometimes doubling as taxis – don't miss them because of looking for a coach. They are comfortable but have less space. There are usually only a few passengers in these, so things tend to work out smoothly.

From Kemijärvi, the coaches typically either start from or pass Kemijärvi ABC (a fuel station with restaurant, there are big grocery stores nearby), stopping on the "Asematie" stop 0.5 km to the south from the station, or start from the railway station. In weekdays there is also a call taxi by coach prices (see below): take the coach to Pelkosenniemi from the night train and transfer to the call taxi from there to Savukoski.

The "bus station" in the main village is a SEO fuel station with a Matkahuolto agent, outside the village. The buses (all?) pass through the village proper, where you probably want to get off, usually stopping briefly regardless.

If you want to get to some minor village, choose either the route via Salla, the one via Pelkosenniemi and Sodankylä, or the one directly from Pelkosenniemi, depending on where you want to go, or transfer in the main village.

Get around


The local public transportation in Savukoski is in the form of a call taxi by coach prices, to be ordered the preceding day before 18:00 (in 2023: Mika Peltoniemi Oy ). Schedules are sparse: the main route is to and from Pelkosenniemi in weekdays morning and evening, connecting to the bus from respectively to the train. In Fridays the call taxi continues via Martti, Ruuvaoja and Tulppio to Kemihaara/Nuortti and returns in time for the evening departure. Martti and Pelkosenniemi have a few more connections.

The coaches or minibuses mentioned in Get in can be used for some connections. They don't drive along the minor roads though.

Normal taxis are available, but due to long distances they are a fairly expensive option.

If you consider hitchhiking, please do understand that the traffic is extremely low.

See



 * The midnight sun or the polar night. The northern lights are common in the dark months.
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Do


Most visitors are interested in hiking, hunting or fishing. Bears and trout are the most desired catch. Some just enjoy the silence. Unfortunately Metsähallitus (the Finnish Forest Administration) closed their information hut in Savukoski in August 2019. Now Visitor Centre Naava, located at Pyhä, offers information about the area. As most of the destinations are very remote, you need to be able to take care of yourselves also if something happens, having adequate orienteering and hiking skills, and being reasonably fit. Some of the hiking trailheads have no public transport; use your car or a taxi.



Buy


The Savukoski region is famous for the dried reindeer meat. Also various wild berry products like juices and jams are popular. The Dry Meat Fair (Kuivalihamarkkinat) held every Easter Saturday are a major event.

Connect
Mobile phones probably work well in the villages and along the main roads, while there is no guarantee elsewhere.