Savannakhet

Savannakhet (ສະຫວັນນະເຂດ, commonly abbreviated to "Savan") and officially known as "Kaysone Phomvihane" (ໄກສອນ ພົມວິຫານ, name of the district), is the capital of Savannakhet Province in Southern Laos. It is on the Mekong River. With an estimated population of 120,000, it is the second largest city of Laos. The city is the hub between west (Mukdahan, Thailand) and east (Vietnam), and between north (Vientiane) and south (Pakse).

Understand
Visitors to Savannakhet are often surprised by its old French colonial architecture and the friendly, sleepy atmosphere of the town which conserves many aspects of Lao traditional culture. The small but blossoming tourist sector offers various eco-trekking programs to the outskirts of the city and to preserved forests and other places of interest in neighbouring districts such as Champhone). The welcoming and generous character of the local people might give you the sincere feeling of being happy to be a family member, very unlike the commercial character of tourist destinations such as Vang Vieng and Si Phan Don. Although there is a casino, Savannakhet has no night-life scene, and Savannakhet is not popular as a tourist destination among Western visitors.

The last two decades, dinosaurs have become a main theme of Savannakhet: The Dinosaur Museum and decorations in the streets reflect the history. Long after dinosaurs had left their last footprints, Savannakhet probably was founded in the 17th century by forty families who immigrated from Phonsim village (around 20 km to the east of the city). It is said that the settlement at the Mekong riverside was called Tahae village and researchers assume that Buddhist temple Vat Xaiyaphoum is an important remainder of that era.

France expanded Indochina by obtaining the east bank of the Mekong after a border dispute in 1893. The French used the Mekong River as the main artery of transport. Not many years later, a network of water transportation, post, and telecommunication facilities and a railway were completed. Also a road, connecting Savannakhet with Quang Tri (Vietnam), was built. In the 1920s and 1930s Vietnamese and Chinese started to settle in Savannakhet. Nowadays, the Chinese and Vietnamese still live in the same parts of the city, while other parts are still redolent of the French administration that was centred in the south part of town.

The 1,600 m Lao-Thai Friendship Bridge II was opened in January 2007, connecting Savannakhet (and Vietnam) to Mukdahan (Thailand). This bridge strengthens the reputation of Savannakhet as open for business. Foreign investors and NGO's are considered to be crucial for the development of the city and province.

The phone number you see in the city, 041, is unrelated to 042 on the Thai side (in Mukdahan). If you want to dial Mukdahan, Thailand, it is +66-42-xxxxxx, but if you want to dial Savannakhet, it is +856-41-xxxxxx.

By plane
Savannakhet has an not far from downtown. Lao Airlines which is the only domestic Laos carrier, runs some direct flights from and to Vientiane. Vientiane can also be reached by flying via Pakse, a trip that totally takes 2½ hours. One way to Vientiane costs around US$110. Round trips with Lao Airlines are not much less than double the one-way fare.


 * The only domestic direct flight is to Pakse. It leaves Savannakhet at 15:00 and arrives at 15:35 three days a week, Sunday, Wednesday, and Friday. On the same days there are flights from Pakse to Savannakhet, leaving at 09:25 and arriving at 10:00. Schedules might change suddenly, so contact Lao Airlines in advance. There are also flights to Vientiane.
 * On Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday, Lao Airlines offers direct flights from/to Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK), taking 2 hours and 20 minutes, leaving Savannakhet at 10:40. Flights from Bangkok leave at 13:00. One way trip costs around US$115, a round trip twice that amount.

By bus
There is bus service from Vientiane to Savannakhet. For the time being it is the only way to practically get to Savannakhet from the capital. It is a 9-hour bus journey on a newly paved road. While the journey is long, it is an excellent way to see the local villages and lush countryside of Laos. Buses from Vientiane to Pakse, often stop in Savannakhet. There are two different types of buses that service the route from/to Vientiane:


 * Local bus - These public bus leave Vientiane and Savannakhet throughout the morning, and make lots of stops to get passengers and goods. Takes approximately 9 hours, costs 75,000 kip one way. A genuine Lao experience.
 * VIP Bus - much like the local bus, but there are fewer stops, assigned seats, there is a toilet and all-important air conditioning. Less frequent and costs more, but well worth it. This is a night bus. Travel time is approximately 8 hours as the bus doesn't exceed 65 km/h. There are two types of night buses: one with bunk beds (120,000 kip) and one with seats (110,000 kip). Each bunk bed accommodates two people. Highly recommended is that you buy the space next to you if you are travelling alone or are travelling in odd numbered groups as you will be sleeping next to a stranger in a twin-sized bed.

There are also local buses from and to:
 * Tha Khaek (30,000 kip, 2-3 hours)
 * Pakse (35,000 kip, 5 hours)
 * Si Phan Don (75,000 kip, 7 hours)
 * There are direct local buses from and to less travelled domestic destinations, such as Sekong (60,000 kip, 5 hours), Salavan (60,000 kip, 8 hours), Attapeu (70,000 kip, 10 hours) and Sepon (40,000 kip, 4-5 hours).

International


 * The Second Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge across the Mekong to Mukdahan, Thailand opened to the public in 2007. There is a regular bus service between Mukdahan and Savannakhet, with departures approximately once an hour. A one-way trip between Savannakhet and Mukdahan costs 50 baht/14,000 kip. In case you have to process a visa at the Laos immigration, the bus driver will not wait unless you ask.
 * Daily buses make the five hour trip (35,000 kip) from/to the Lao Bao border in Vietnam via Sepon. Local buses at 07:30, 09:00, and 12:00.
 * VIP buses to Dong Ha in Vietnam go via Lao Bao, and are only available on weekdays at 10:00. The 350 km trip takes around seven hours and costs 90,000 kip. Local buses leave every day at 22:00 (80,000 kip) and also take seven hours.
 * VIP buses to Hue (Vietnam) leave on weekdays only at 10:00. The 410 km journey takes eight hours and costs 110,000 kip. Get information and your reservation at Savanbanhao Hotel (downtown). The local daily bus to Hue (leaving 22:00, 90,000 kip) is not recommended, as you need to wait at the border checkpoint from 03:00 until the checkpoints opens at 08:00, which will lead to insufficient night rest due to immigration officials, vendors and beggars trying to separate you from your money. For local buses to Danang (also Vietnam) the same details apply.

The is about 2 km north of the city centre. ~50 baht for a tuk-tuk into the city.

As of September 2019, Thai citizens can use their Thai ID (bat pratchachon) to apply for a border pass that is valid for 3 days. The border pass office, run by the Thai government, is next to the Thai passport control station at the Friendship Bridge, and is open starting from 08:00. The application fee is 50 baht. The border pass is valid only for crossing into Savannakhet, and is not valid for any other crossings.

Get around
The easiest way to get around Savannakhet is by foot or bicycle. Tuk-tuks are also available around the city and are an easy way to get to a specific location quickly. Be cautious about the fee for the tuk-tuk and always set the price before the ride. Because the minor roads of the districts around Savannakhet are often badly paved, a reliable cheap motorbike for rent in Savannakhet town might be hard to find.

Buy
Most jewellery shops, usually run by ethnic Vietnamese and Chinese, in Savannakhet will exchange foreign currency. The unofficial exchange rate is 300 Lao kip per Thai baht as of September 2019, which is better than the official exchange rate if you are buying kip. Vietnamese dong, US dollars, and Chinese yuan (renminbi) can also be exchanged.

Although most businesses and vendors in Savannakhet will accept Thai baht, you will get a much better deal if you pay in Lao kip. Most vendors will ask for 20 baht for each 10,000 kip, which is not as good as the official exchange rate. To get most out of your money, you can stock up on Thai baht in Thailand, exchange the Thai baht to Lao kip at any one of the jewellery shops in Savannakhet, and spend in Lao kip.



Budget
There is a wide selection of small bars and cafes on the river front at the north end of town. For baguette (with jam, scrambled eggs or pâté) and roti (around 5,000 kip each) street vendors, head to Ratsavongseuk St.



Mid-range
Head to just north of the concentration of guesthouses and find some great restaurants with fondue or hot pot, chili-basil frog, etc. (30,000-40,000 kip)

Splurge




Drink

 * Many local cafés serve traditional Laos coffee with condensed milk at the bottom and the coffee on top.
 * For traditional cappuccino, latte or ice coffee, there are two Dao Heuang coffee shops, one in the courtyard in front of the Catholic church, the other on Sisavangong Rd (just down the road from the bus station).

Budget
Many suburban guest houses, that are not in the list below, rent rooms mainly to (young) Lao people for short adventures which they won't risk to experience at home. They also often involve in drugs abuse. These guesthouses are not recommended.



Talk
Lao is the main language spoken in Savannakhet. Thai is understood by almost everyone in Savannakhet, since Laotians are well exposed to Thai media. The local Lao dialect spoken in Savannakhet differs from the Lao dialect spoken in Vientiane, although the two are mutually intelligible. Due to the large Vietnamese population in Savannakhet, Vietnamese is also spoken by some. French signage is common, but few people speak and understand French except for some older educated people.

Stay safe

 * As a pedestrian, watch where you walk in Savannakhet. There are many holes in the pavement which could lead to a fall into the sewer system. Also be careful at night by staying on main roads that are well lit. Don't wander down dark alleys and beware of dogs.
 * Watch on the traffic as well. The traffic situation has rapidly changed during the past two decades, from slow dusty streets filled with bicycles to concrete roads with speeding teenagers on motorbikes, overtaking both left and right, not wearing helmets and not respecting any traffic rules. Speeding is easy as the roads are straight, there is not much policing, and there is a lack of speed bumps and roundabouts. Riding a motorbike can be dangerous. Keep right as much as possible, as you won't be overtaken from the right side, which often causes accidents. Beware of those driving at the wrong side of the road, waiting for an opportunity to cross to the right lane. Finally beware of traffic participants not showing any light or direction.
 * Don't take pictures of the military base at Xeno town (35 km north of Savannakhet). There are no warning signs telling that taking a picture is prohibited. To be sure whether an area is safe, ask the local people. Not rarely, visitors find themselves in an awkward situation, losing their passport, getting it back after a long and non-transparent process in which police, army, embassy and other parties might be involved.

Go next

 * Mukdahan (Thailand) is just across the Mekong river.
 * Pakse – Buses run from the bus station every day at 7:00, 9:00, 10:30, 12:30 and 17:30, price 120,000 kip (May 2023). Get there 45 minutes early to avoid sitting on a plastic chair in the aisle. Journey takes 4-6 hours.
 * Other buses are available to Attapue, Sekong and Salavan in Laos, as well as to Hue and Danang in Vietnam.