Savaii

Savaii (Savai'i) is the larger, but less developed, of the two main islands of Samoa.

Understand
Many people say that Savaii is the 'real' Samoa. It is certainly less developed, with no real towns as such, just a series of small villages with people living in traditional huts. You don't have to worry about getting lost on Savaii if you're driving - only one (well-paved) road runs around the island. Every few miles you will likely pass a colonial-style church, while the coastline will regularly change between volcanic black ash, pristine white sand beaches, and dramatic cliffs.

Overall, visit Savai'i if you want a more authentic and unspoiled Samoan experience away from the Internet cafes and McDonald's of Apia.

Talk


English is widely understood, but it doesn't hurt to know a few Samoan phrases.

By boat
The car ferry journey takes 1 hour 15 minutes from Mulifanua Port (towards the most western edge of Upolu) to Salelologa on the southeast of Savaii. There are a maximum of five sailings a day, usually every 2 hours with the first at 06:00 and the last at 16:00. The ferry timetable and fares can be found http://www.samoashipping.com/timetable-and-fares here]. Price for foot passengers is W$12.

While no recent accidents have been reported, several government travel warnings have been issued about the safety of this ferry - relating specifically to overloading, and the threat of heavy vehicles moving during the voyage. But it is the only feasible way to reach Savaii, and so the final decision is up to you.

If you do decide to use it, it's very likely that you'll be one of the few foreigners on board. Locals are therefore likely to strike up a conversation. Don't be concerned - this is almost always innocent and driven purely by curiosity.

If you are planning a short excursion to Savai'i then it's better to pack a small overnight bag and leave your main suitcase back at the Travellers Lounge in Apia. Dragging your suitcase onto the ferry and around Savai'i could be rather awkward.

By bus
The main means of getting around in Savaii are the brightly colored, pop-music blaring local buses. A one-way fare costs a maximum of WS$7 if you head to the northwest, with closer destinations being much less. The fare is paid to the driver at the end of the journey. Most buses depart from the markets in Salelologa. There are also some buses which meet the ferry at the Salelologa wharf. Buses in Savai'i tend to fill up quickly and you might find yourself sitting on the lap of a local! This is quite an experience for westerners.

By taxi
Generally your best bet. They are cheap and plentiful. Agree on a price ahead of the journey as none have meters.

By rented car
You need to obtain a local licence, which is very easy to get from the Transport Control Board at the police station in Apia (international licences are not accepted) or from just next to the exit from Customs at the airport. Some car rental companies also provide this service. Licence endorsement costs WST$21 and lasts for one month. Renting a car is possible but not economical unless you will be driving it a lot every day. They are particularly handy if you plan to visit the Falealupo Peninsula, which does not have good public transport. Car hire companies include: PK Rentals (pkrentals@samoa.ws); Salafi (apia_lua@ipasifiki.net) and Savaii Car Rentals (cars@lesamoa.net).

By bicycle
Possible and quite enjoyable. Most of the island is flat and there is only one main road that circumnavigates the island. So there is no chance of getting lost. There are a few small steep sections near A'apo and Asau.

By hitchhiking
Hitchhiking is not very common, but can be a fun and entertaining way to travel like the locals at the back of a ute (pick-up truck). Almost all people will stop if you request a ride and many of them will go out of the way to drop you at your destination.

See




Do
Circumnavigate the entire island over a few days or a week (although it is possible to do in day) and admire the wonderful lush scenery and contrasting coastline.

Eat
Most places to eat are attached to hotels or guest houses. There are few independent restaurants or bars and the ones that do exist are almost all close to Salelologa.



Budget
Beach fales are an enjoyable and inexpensive way to stay in Samoa. A list can be obtained from the Samoa Tourism Authority (info@samoa.travel), but the best way to know where to stay is to ask other travellers. Samoa is not very big, so you will bump into other travellers making it easy to exchange information.



Stay safe
Savai'i is a safe destination. Crime rates are low and people very helpful and friendly. With some common sense precautions, one should encounter few problems.

There is a hospital just north of Salelologa.

Connect
There is a lava hotspot at the CTC in Salelologa. Look for the yellow building opposite the jet over hotel. Several, but not all, beach hotels offer internet. Raci's Beach Club (see Drink, above) claims to be the most westerly (i.e. closest to the International Dateline) internet cafe in the world.

Go next
You can't really visit Savaii without seeing something of the rest of Samoa:
 * Apia - worth at least a couple of days
 * Upolu