Sarajevo

Sarajevo is the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, and its largest city, with 420,000 citizens in its urban area (2013). Sarajevo metropolitan area that has a population of 555,000 also includes some neighbourhoods of "East Sarajevo" that are a part of Republika Srpska. Sarajevo is very tourist friendly, especially pedestrian area in the Old Town in the centre of the city.

History
Sarajevo is one of the most historically interesting and diverse cities in this part of Europe. It is a place where the Western and Eastern Roman Empire split; where the people of the Roman Catholic west, Eastern Orthodox east and the Ottoman south, met, lived and warred. It is both an example of historical turbulence and the clash of civilizations, as well as a beacon of hope for peace through multicultural tolerance. The city is traditionally known for its religious diversity, with Muslims, Orthodox Christians, Catholics and Jews coexisting here for centuries. Additionally, the city's vast historic diversity is strongly reflected in its architecture. Parts of the city have a very Central-European look, while other parts of the city, often blocks away, have a completely distinct Ottoman, some Soviet-like or Socialist modernism feel.

Some important events in Sarajevo's history include the 1914 assassination of Austrian Archduke Franz Ferdinand, which led to World War I; the 1984 Winter Olympics; and the 1992-1996 siege.

The city has physically recovered from most of the damage caused by the Yugoslav Wars of 1992–1995, although bullet holes can still be found in some buildings. Sarajevo is a cosmopolitan European capital with a unique Eastern twist that is a delight to explore. The people are very friendly, be they Bosniaks, Croats, Serbs or anyone else. There is little street crime, with the city ranking as one of the safest in Southeastern Europe.

Orientation


The city of Sarajevo stretches west–east along the river Miljacka; the main arterial road and tram routes tend to follow the west–east orientation. It is set in a narrow valley, surrounded by mountains on three sides.

Most tourists spend a lot of time in Old Town (Stari Grad). The eastern half of Old Town consists of the Ottoman-influenced Bascarsija (BAHS CHAR she ya; etymologically baš (head, main), čaršija (bazaar, trading area) in Turkish), while the western half showcases an architecture and culture that arrived with Austria-Hungary, symbolically representing the city as a meeting place between East and West.


 * [Visit Sarajevo
 * "Sarajevo Navigator" is an online guide magazine in English and Bosnian, the latest issue being March 2019.
 * "Sarajevo Navigator" is an online guide magazine in English and Bosnian, the latest issue being March 2019.

Climate
Sarajevo has a humid continental climate, since mountains surrounding the city greatly reduce the maritime influence of the Adriatic Sea. Summers are typically hot (record high of 41 °C in 2008) with an average of 46 days per year above 32 °C, while winters are snowy and cold with an average 4 days per year below -15 °C. Rain can be expected in every season, with an average of 75 days of precipitation per year, which in winter often falls as snow.

By plane


This is Bosnia's principal airport, hemmed in by mountains and fog-prone, so flight delays are common in winter. The only passenger terminal is Terminal B; it's closed overnight 23:00–05:00. In the groundside main hall (after customs on arrival, before security on departure) there are currency exchange booths, car rental desks, a bookshop that sells local SIM cards, and a fast food area upstairs; there's no luggage storage. Airside is small, with a cafe and duty free shops accepting major currencies. New terminal facilities are under construction, to open in 2021. About 1 km away, walkable by the route to the trolleybus (below) then keep straight on, is the East Bus Station for destinations in Republika Srpska.

The most important hub connections are from Frankfurt (by Lufthansa), Vienna (by Austrian), Istanbul (by Turkish Airlines), Dubai (by flydubai) and Doha (by Qatar Airways) as well as flights to neighbouring countries (Belgrade by Air Serbia and Zagreb by Croatia Airlines) amongst others. Service to London-Luton is operated by Wizz Air, and to London-Stansted from April to October.

While you're at the airport, consider visiting the Tunnel of Hope Museum (Tunel Spasa). This saves you a trip from city centre later on, though you'll probably have to drag your luggage along. The museum is southside of the runway (the terminal being north), which they tunnelled beneath in 1993 to create a lifeline to the besieged city.

Getting there and away:
 * By bus – Centrotrans bus runs daily between airport and Baščaršija in city centre. It runs roughly hourly 05:30-22:00, timed to connect with flights, taking 20-30 mins. A one-way ticket is 5 KM, return 8 KM, the first bag (up to 23 kg) per person is included and each extra bag is 5 KM. You pay on boarding the bus. It stops on request at central bus stops, which may not be specifically marked for the airport bus but they're usually next to tram stops.
 * By taxi – Taxis are notorious for scams! To the city centre should not exceed 20 KM, although some drivers try for double that from foreigners. Flagfall is 1.90 KM then it's 1.20 KM per km for 6–7 km; any "airport supplement" is bogus. Some drivers will refuse to use the meters; insist on them, and if they don't, then walk away. One scam is to wave a "fixed price list" at you, but it's just the product of a greedy imagination. Your hotel may offer an airport transfer, with rates varying from the competitive to the silly. A further option is to walk through Dobrinja as described below to pick up a taxi, though the saving on an honest fare is small.
 * By trolleybus – This involves a walk of 600 m through the nearby neighbourhood of Dobrinja to reach the stop on Bulevar Mimara Sinana. You might want a map or a compass: the general direction is northeast with the terminal directly behind you, but it involves a zigzag. You exit the airport at the main gate onto Kurta Schorka highway. Turn right (southeast) and walk 200 m, there's no sidewalk. Take the first left, Andreja Andrejevića, and cut through residential Dobrinja passing near Hotel Octagon. Emerge onto the main road and turn right (again southeast) along Bulevar Mimara Sinana. On the opposite side (with westbound traffic) after 200 m, before you reach Mercator Center, is the bus stop Dobrinja škola B. Trolleybus 103 runs every 6 – 7 minutes daytime to Trg Austrijski, in the centre on the south riverbank, taking 25 min; walk across the Latin Bridge to come into Old Town. (Don't take the 107 or 108 if you're aiming for Old Town.) The fare is 1.80 KM, pay the driver, and note there are frequent ticket inspectors.

Tuzla Airport is another way in, as it has budget flights by Wizz from across Germany and Scandinavia. The airport is 120 km north of Sarajevo. An airport bus runs direct from Sarajevo to meet the Wizz flights, taking 2 hours and costing €22 each way. Or you can travel via the frequent standard buses to Tuzla, taking a leisurely 3 hours.

By train


There are no international trains to Bosnia: Coming from the west, the work-around route is to travel first to Zagreb in Croatia. From Zagreb main station (Glavni Kol) take the local train at 09:00 to Hrvatska Kostajnica, arriving by 10:45: see Croatian Railways timetable. The fare's about €8. You're now 3 km from the Bosnian borderpost, either take a taxi, or walk south into town then east and cross the river by the first bridge. Once you've entered Bosnia, find a taxi to Banja Luka, 100 km southeast, costing around 100 KM and taking maybe 90 mins. You'll reach Banja Luka in plenty of time to catch the 15:49 local train to Sarajevo via Zenica, arriving by 20:41. The train is a modern Spanish Talgo and the fare is about 26 KM. When checking the Bosnian Railways website, use the timetable menu not the ticket menu, as the latter only offers the main towns and bookable trains.

For the reverse journey, be on the 10:15 train from Sarajevo to Banja Luka in order to make the 19:15 from Hrvatska Kostajnica and reach Zagreb at 21:00. And confirm that your taxi driver has agreed to take you to the correct Kostajnica on the Croatian border (ie north-west, a printed map may help), not accidentally-on-purpose to some other Kostajnica, e.g. the one 80 km east near Doboj.

The only other railway route you're likely to get in by is Čapljina - Mostar - Sarajevo, with only two trains a day, departing from Sarajevo at 07:15 and 16:49 and taking around 2 hours to reach Mostar. Since 2015 there are no passenger trains south of Čapljina into Croatia and the port of Ploče (which has transport to Dubrovnik, Split and the Adriatic islands), though the line is still open for freight.

If your accommodation is in the west of the city, e.g. the Ibis Styles Hotel, then coming from Banja Luka you could change at Zenica for the local train to Sarajevo, which also stops at on Safeta Zajke. But it doesn't save much time or effort. The trains from Čapljina and Mostar trundle through this station without stopping.

By bus
There are two bus stations in Sarajevo, Main Station for most long-distance services and East Station for Serbia and towns in Republika Srpska.

On all intercity buses you pay a fee for luggage, usually 2 KM or €1 per piece (as of July 2024). The driver will insist on exact change in one or the other currency pretty much at random, and then get picky about the denomination of the exact change you give him.

Major bus routes within the country are to Tuzla (hourly, taking 3 hours, fare 11 KM), to Mostar via Konjic and Jablanica (hourly, taking 2 hours 30 min, fare 14 KM) and to Banja Luka via Zenica (every couple of hours, taking 3 hours, fare 11 KM.)



To reach East Station, take trolleybus 103 from Austrijski Trg to the end and then walk for 400 meters, or a taxi for around 15 KM. There are no controls to cross into Republika Srpska, it's just like crossing any internal border. There's not much at the station except a ticket counter and the obligatory cafe/grill. Travellers reported harassments by a drunk guy hanging around at the east bus station (see e.g. Google Maps Reviews).

Sarajevo East Station asks you to pay a station tax which is 2 KM per person (as of July 2024). Insist on your receipt that indicates the 2 KM as the staff usually tries to scam tourists and keep the money for themselves or asks for twice the price.

East Sarajevo has cafes, shops and ATMs, e.g. in TOM shopping centre 200 m southwest along Radomira Putnika.

By car
The main route from the west is past Zagreb east on E70, then south on E661 to enter Bosnia and towards Banja Luka thence Sarajevo via the A1 highway from Zenica. You can also reach the city from the East via the suburbs of Ilidža or from the north via M18/A1 from the direction of Tuzla.

By thumb
Hitching is easy to moderate, though make sure your sign is in the local language. Sarajevo is a long, thin city: if you can't get a lift into the centre, at least get yourself dropped by the tram tracks.

Get around
Sarajevo is a medium-sized, beautiful city with many landmarks. Getting lost is always possible, but much less so if you have a map; however, getting lost in Bascarsija's winding streets can be part of the fun, and may reveal some interesting surprises.

Very good free maps can be obtained from the tourist information office, shopping centres and hotels. Some bookshops may also sell printed maps of the city. Map apps on a smartphone are particularly useful.

Asking Sarajevans for directions is an exercise in futility. People might not know the names of streets a block from the building they've lived in all their lives. Taxi drivers can't be expected to find anything other than the most obvious addresses unless you tell them where to go, in Bosnian; showing the driver on your map may be necessary.

Avoid driving in the Old Town. The steep and narrow streets, with a one way system, means you are likely to get lost and possibly damage your car. Also, it is next to impossible to find a parking spot.

Otherwise, a car might be invaluable to reach the sights farther away from the city center, especially East Sarajevo which belongs to Republika Srpska.

On foot


In Sarajevo, street signs are few and far between, and small and on the sides of buildings too far away to see when you're standing on a street corner. Building numbers are more or less consecutive. The city is mostly walkable, especially the city centre and the part of the city which is built on the slopes of Mt. Trebević.

By tram
Sarajevo's tram network operated by KJKP GRAS is among the oldest in Europe, and it looks it. A single line runs east from Ilidža passing within 2 km of the airport: an extension to the airport has been planned and intermittently constructed since the 1990s. It runs up the middle of the main highway into the city, with a spur north (Trams 1 & 4) to the main railway and bus stations. At Marijin Dvor it divides into an anti-clockwise loop, same direction as the traffic flow. All trams go east along Hiseta and the riverbank through Baščaršija (Old Town) as far as City Hall. Here they loop to return west along Mula Mustafe Bašeskije (a few blocks north of the river) and Maršala Tita to Marijin Dvor. Only Tram 3 runs the entire line out to Ilidža, the others go part route, e.g. the 1 & 4 terminate at the railway station. The length of the route is around 12 km. Old trams from Amsterdam were donated to Sarajevo and can still be seen touring the city, with the Dutch stickers still on it.

Buy tickets in advance from kiosks labeled tisak, duhanpromet, inovine on the street (1.60 KM) or from the driver, where they cost slightly more (1.80 KM, paid in cash). Validate your ticket immediately on boarding: it's only good for one trip, with no transfers. A day card for unlimited travel on all local public transport in Zone A costs 5 KM. There are frequent ticket inspections: if you can't reach the validator because the tram is too crowded, then don't board. If you are caught without a valid ticket, you will be escorted off and fined 26.50 KM.

By bus
You would only use these for the few sights or accommodation well off the tram route, e.g. the airport and nearby Tunel Spasa, (see "Get in"), Sarajevo East bus station or Vratnik district east of the centre, Buses 51, 52 or 55.

Bus tickets are always bought at the driver for 1.40 KM. You can not use pre-bought tram tickets in busses.

The planned departures of busses and trams can be found in the Moovit app (iOS, Android).

By bicycle
Only for seasoned urban cyclists: Sarajevo traffic is as hostile to cyclists as it is to fellow-motorists, only with worse results.

Nextbike has a bike rental scheme here and in Tuzla. First you need to register and pay a 20 km deposit, easiest done online. It may take 24 hours to activate but if you're already registered with them in another country, you should be good to go. There are 14 pick-up / docking stations all along the tram lines out to Dobrinja near the airport, their map shows real-time availability. The first 30 mins per day are free, a further 30 mins cost 1.50 KM.

By taxi
Taxi scams are common especially at the main train & bus stations and the airport. Try to avoid using taxis when possible, as even supposedly legitimate operators can scam. Know roughly what the honest fare should be, and insist on them using the meter. All legitimate taxis have a "TAXI" sign on top, licence plates with "TA", and have a meter. Flagfall is 1.90 KM then it's 1.20 KM per km, plus maybe 1 km for luggage, so a trip between Baščaršija and airport shouldn't exceed 20 KM. Pay in cash, the driver will issue a receipt upon request. Some official operators are

The best way to find a reputable Taxi is to ask a local person you trust which one they would use. Ownership and management of official operators can change frequently.
 * Paja Taxi 1522 or
 * Žuti (Yellow) Taxi
 * Samir & Emir Taxi 1516
 * Holand Taxi tollfree 0800 2023

By shared electric scooter
Renting an electric scooter is available in Sarajevo like in many other European cities. You can use the app BeeBee to access them.

See
With the exception of the Tunnel Museum and the Bosna spring, all landmarks are in or within walking distance of Old Town. Several walking tours are available, a free/tip based walking tour starts every day at 10:30 at the crossing of Gazi Husrev begova street and Mula Mustafa Baseskija street (address: Velika Avlija 14) and covers most of the Baščaršija.

The municipality of Sarajevo provides an app called "Guide2Sarajevo" (Android, ios). It contains a map with sights and restaurants as well as several themed routes to walk in the city (ranging from 2 to 6 hours) on which you use your phone as audio guide (works even without mobile internet, because the files are downloaded on installation). It's remarkably well made.



Baščaršija


Baščaršija is the historic district of Sarajevo. The cobbled streets, mosques and oriental-style shops at the heart the city feel like a world away from Europe when the call to prayer starts. You could be walking by a Catholic church, Orthodox church or a synagogue and hear the Islamic call to prayer at the same time. In this old bazaar you can find dozens of shops selling copperware, woodwork and sweets. Many historic monuments are situated around Gazi Husrev-begova street.



Museums


Sarajevo has numerous museums on a variety of topics. The museums can offer an air-conditioned refuge from heat during Sarajevo's hot summers, or a place to warm up in the chilly winter months.

War memorials


Scars from the Bosnian War can still be seen in many parts of the city, as bullet holes in walls or abandoned buildings. The unresolved conflict (see box The Yugoslav Wars) left traumatic memories, and museums and memorials associated with the Bosnian War are scattered around the city.


 * Sarajevo Roses are scars left in the concrete from mortar blasts during the Siege of Sarajevo, filled with red resin. Around 200 can be found throughout the city.
 * ICAR Canned beef monument In the vicinity of the National Museum and the Bosnian Historical museum. A giant can of beef meant as a sarcastic sneer at inadequate help from the European community during the siege. The infamous canned beef was inedible, and according to popular legend even refused by stray cats and dogs. The city was also supplied with 20 years out-of-date rations from the Vietnam war, and pork for a muslim-majority population.
 * Sarajevo cemetery Bare.jpg
 * Cemeteries: those who died in the 1990s war were buried in pre-existing cemeteries. In these you find old Ottoman turbe, Austro-Hungarian dignitaries, casualties of two World Wars, Yugoslav citizens - and then row upon row upon aching row of simple white marble stones for people in their twenties slain in the latest conflict.
 * A good example is (Alifakovac grobljanska cjelina) on the headland south of the river where it emerges from the canyon.
 * See also Martyrs' Memorial Cemetery in Vratnik, and St Mark's (Groblje Sveti Marko) north edge of the city with the mausoleum of Gavril Princip.
 * Sarajevo cemetery Bare.jpg
 * Cemeteries: those who died in the 1990s war were buried in pre-existing cemeteries. In these you find old Ottoman turbe, Austro-Hungarian dignitaries, casualties of two World Wars, Yugoslav citizens - and then row upon row upon aching row of simple white marble stones for people in their twenties slain in the latest conflict.
 * A good example is (Alifakovac grobljanska cjelina) on the headland south of the river where it emerges from the canyon.
 * See also Martyrs' Memorial Cemetery in Vratnik, and St Mark's (Groblje Sveti Marko) north edge of the city with the mausoleum of Gavril Princip.



Art

 * Academy of Fine Arts (Sarajevo).jpg
 * The grandiose Academy on the south bank facing Festina Lente bridge was originally a church, built in 1899 to Karl Pařík's design. It's now the Academy of Performing Arts within the University of Sarajevo, but no longer fit for purpose and they plan to move elsewhere. So just admire the facade.
 * Academy of Fine Arts (Sarajevo).jpg
 * The grandiose Academy on the south bank facing Festina Lente bridge was originally a church, built in 1899 to Karl Pařík's design. It's now the Academy of Performing Arts within the University of Sarajevo, but no longer fit for purpose and they plan to move elsewhere. So just admire the facade.
 * The grandiose Academy on the south bank facing Festina Lente bridge was originally a church, built in 1899 to Karl Pařík's design. It's now the Academy of Performing Arts within the University of Sarajevo, but no longer fit for purpose and they plan to move elsewhere. So just admire the facade.
 * The grandiose Academy on the south bank facing Festina Lente bridge was originally a church, built in 1899 to Karl Pařík's design. It's now the Academy of Performing Arts within the University of Sarajevo, but no longer fit for purpose and they plan to move elsewhere. So just admire the facade.

Administrative buildings




Islamic




Christian



 * The Franciscan Monastery (Franjevački samostan na Bistriku) next to the church was built in 1894, also in Gothic Revival style and designed by Karel Pařík. It's still a monastery and therefore seldom open to visitors, but its collection of paintings, sculptures, organ, manuscripts and books are occasionally put on view.
 * The Franciscan Monastery (Franjevački samostan na Bistriku) next to the church was built in 1894, also in Gothic Revival style and designed by Karel Pařík. It's still a monastery and therefore seldom open to visitors, but its collection of paintings, sculptures, organ, manuscripts and books are occasionally put on view.

Jewish
The Jewish population was first established in 1492-97 when Sephardic Jews fled the Inquisition in Spain and Portugal, and settled here and in other Ottoman cities. The Ashkenazi Jews mostly arrived during Austro-Hungarian rule in the late 19th century. Inter-community relations were mostly amicable and the population was relatively unharmed by the First World War, collapse of Austria-Hungary and formation of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. By 1940, their numbers peaked at around 14,000, 20% of the city population. In 1941 the Nazis invaded, placing the country under the control of the Croatian Ustaše, who vigorously set about the deportation and extermination of minority groups. Those who could, fled to the west, and after the war most exiles remained abroad. Some 2000 Jews did remain or return, but when the 1990s civil wars broke out, there was a mass evacuation to Israel of Jews living in former Yugoslavia. Fewer than 1000 remain in Bosnia and Herzegovina today, perhaps half of them in Sarajevo.
 * The Jewish New Temple (Il kal muevus) next door, built in 1820, is now an exhibition space open Su-F 15:00-19:00.Aškenaška sinagoga (14143483781).jpg
 * The Jewish New Temple (Il kal muevus) next door, built in 1820, is now an exhibition space open Su-F 15:00-19:00.Aškenaška sinagoga (14143483781).jpg

Ottoman bridges


During Ottoman rule of Sarajevo, 13 bridges were built over the Miljacka River and Bosna River. Four stone bridges remain: the Latin Bridge, the Šeher-Čehajina Bridge, the Goat Bridge and the Roman Bridge.



Goat's Bridge
The bridge had an important ceremonial function, as it served as the place where each Ottoman vizier was welcomed by the previous vizier and citizens of Sarajevo. The bridge is constructed from white marble, has a single arc with two circular apertures, and is 42 m long and 4.75 m wide. The span of the main arc is 17.5 m. According to the legend, before the bridge's existence, a poor shepherd noticed his goats sniffing on a shrub along the Miljacka River. Upon inspecting the shrub, he found a treasure with golden coins, which he used to finance his own education. After he became wealthy and influential, he had the bridge constructed at the shrub where his goats found the treasure, which gave the bridge its name. The truth in the legend was lost in history, but the bridge was almost certainly built between 1565 and 1579, a time when the road network underwent major infrastructure upgrades under reign of Mehmed-paša Sokolović.

If you came to the bridge on the cycle/pedestrian path along the river by foot, you can continue the road after the goat bridge uphill to Vakuf Isa-bega Ishakovića (a view point) and then few hundred meters further on the cycle path to Pale turn right to Jarčedoli. Once you reached the, you'll have majestic views over Sarajevo, especially the hills and ruins on the opposite site.

From there follow many stairs and narrow streets down to Alifakovac which ends at the city hall.

Vratnik


In the 17th century conflict between Austria-Hungary and the Ottoman Empire, the decisive battle came at Zenta (now in Serbia) in 1697, when the Ottomans were routed, and their grip on central Europe was broken. The Austro-Hungarian forces then devastated Sarajevo before marching home. Further attacks were likely so a fortified city was built here 1727–1739, east of the old centre of Baščaršija. Later suburbs surrounded it, and the name Vratnik (probably meaning "gates") applies to this wider district, but the sights of interest are all in the Vratnik redoubt.

From Baščaršija either walk up Kovači past the war cemetery onto Jekovac and Carina (Buses 51, 52 & 55 run this way); or follow the river upstream taking the right fork just before the road goes into a tunnel, then ascend right for White Fortress or left for Yellow Fortress.


 * Jajce Kasarna are Austro-Hungarian barracks 200 m east of Yellow Fortress. They're derelict and unsafe to enter.
 * Jajce Kasarna are Austro-Hungarian barracks 200 m east of Yellow Fortress. They're derelict and unsafe to enter.
 * Jajce Kasarna are Austro-Hungarian barracks 200 m east of Yellow Fortress. They're derelict and unsafe to enter.
 * Jajce Kasarna are Austro-Hungarian barracks 200 m east of Yellow Fortress. They're derelict and unsafe to enter.

Olympics
Sarajevo hosted the 1984 Winter Olympic Games. These (officially the XIV Olympic Winter Games) were the first held in a socialist state, although Moscow had hosted the 1980 Summer Olympics. Some structures remaining from that era are in a sorry state.



Recreation parks

 * Sarajevo City Centre mall has a large play area for children. BBI Centar a smaller one. Both malls are slightly west of the city centre on the main road.

Sports

 * Watch football (ie soccer) at
 * Or watch football at
 * From May to August there are white-water rafting trips down the river Neretva. The usual base for trips is Konjic midway between Sarajevo and Mostar. Operators who do package day-trips from Sarajevo include Sarajevo Funky Tours, Sarajevo Insider, Meet Bosnia Travel and Balkland. These cost about 100 KM including transport and lunch.
 * See Sarajevo Region for the ski resorts of Jahorina, Bjelašnica and Igman, all about 35 km away.
 * See Sarajevo Region for the ski resorts of Jahorina, Bjelašnica and Igman, all about 35 km away.

Events
Sonar compiles the city's regular calendar of events.
 * Nights of Baščaršija: throughout July the old town centre has theatre performances, classic and rock music concerts and folklore dances. Various locations but concentrated around Ćemaluša.
 * Nights of Baščaršija: throughout July the old town centre has theatre performances, classic and rock music concerts and folklore dances. Various locations but concentrated around Ćemaluša.
 * Nights of Baščaršija: throughout July the old town centre has theatre performances, classic and rock music concerts and folklore dances. Various locations but concentrated around Ćemaluša.

Buy


Most shopping centres and upscale restaurants accept credit cards. Small cafés, clubs and souvenir shops mostly require cash, but might jib at notes larger than 20 KM.



Baščaršija
In addition to the usual types of souvenirs, such as key rings, are more distinctive carpets and copperware, not all of which are locally made. Over a century ago, each street in this area hawked a specific ware: for example, one street had all the coppersmiths, shoes were on another, jewellery on another. An underground souk (open 08:00-20:00) stretches along the west side of Gazi Husrev-begova street. Prices are generally fixed, and so whilst haggling for a 4 KM keyring is pointless it may be possible for bulk purchases or the odd 2,000 USD carpet.

Shopping malls
Sarajevo offers numerous shopping malls, the most notable being the Sarajevo City Center in the commercial district. Most shopping malls in Sarajevo have been newly constructed or renovated, and offer a modern shopping experience to those who can stand the annoying pop music they play all day long.

Money
The local currency is konvertibilna marka (KM, Convertible Mark, international abbreviation BAM), fixed at €1 = 1.95583 KM (~1 KM = €0.51)), and is used throughout the country. Informally, restaurants may accept euros at €1 = 2 KM. The odd rate is because the Convertible Mark was originally pegged 1:1 against the Deutsche Mark, which was replaced with the euro at that rate.

There are many banks along Maršala Tita at the north boundary of Old Town, usually open M-F 08:00-18:00, Sa 09:00-13:00. Money can also be exchanged at any post office or at currency exchange booths, which stay open till 21:00: as always take care to check both the exchange rate and level of commission.

Eat


It is said in Bosnia that some people eat to be able to drink, others eat to be able to live and work, but true Bosnians work and live to eat. A lot of attention is devoted to the preparation and consumption of food in Sarajevo. Gastronomy in the city was developed under Eastern and Western influences, and Bosnian cuisine focuses on local produce like meat, vegetables, fruits and dairy products. For information on typical Bosnian foods, see Bosnia.

Budget
Cheap food on the go, from a myriad small shops and cafés, is burek, ćevapi or pita. Burek is meat pie. Ćevapi are grilled meats; the word derives from "kebab" and the traditional Sarajevo style is minced beef and mutton in a somun flatbread. Pita is a filo pasty or pie, typical varieties being meat (meso), cheese (sirnica, similar to ricotta), cheese and spinach (zeljanica), pumpkin (tikvenica) and spicy potato (krompirusa).

Drink
Sarajevo has vibrant night life with a plenty small thematic bars. Clubs are usually opened until early morning. Thursday, Friday and Saturday are hot days to hang out despite the rest of the week offers quite good night life. There are probably over 100 cafés in the city, centred in the old town, but a clear distinction is made whether the traditional Bosnian coffee is served or not.

Sleep


You need to register with the local police within 24 hours of arrival. Your hotel or hostel should do this on check-in, but if you wild-camp or stay at a private residence, you need to organise this yourself. Failure to register doesn't normally bother the authorities but could result in a fine or deportation.

Budget

 * You can wild camp in the park by the River Miljacka. Chances are you'll see tents already there. Follow the road west and stay close to the river. In summer there is a public toilet. No guard or services.
 * Locals may unofficially let you stay in their property, payment to be negotiated.

Mid-range




Connect
There are four mobile operators in Sarajevo: BH Telecom (060, 061, 062), m:tel (065, 066, 067), HT Eronet (063) and Haloo (064). Since Bosnia and Herzegovina is not part of the EU or EEA, the international roaming charges are not capped as those have been since 2017, and can be much higher. However Bosnia and Herzegovina is part of a Balkan roaming zone with Montenegro, Serbia and North Macedonia, capped at €0.20 per MB from July 2017. But that only applies if you have a local SIM card, from any of the operators, which can be purchased in one of the many kiosks around the city. BH Telecom, m:tel and HT Eronet have offers aimed towards tourists, starting from 20 km for 5 GB.

The local area code is +387 33 (Kanton Sarajevo) and the local postal code is 71000.


 * Central Post Office BH Pošta is a sight in itself, see "Administrative buildings" listing earlier. It's at Obala Kulina bana 8 next to the National Theatre.
 * There's another big post office next to the railway station, open M-F 07:30-18:00 and Sat 08:00-16:00.
 * There's another big post office next to the railway station, open M-F 07:30-18:00 and Sat 08:00-16:00.

Stay safe


There are still many minefields and unexploded ordnances in the broader Sarajevo area (although not in any urban area). Never go into damaged buildings (which are really rarely seen) and always stick to paved surfaces avoiding grassy hills that surround the city. As of 2020, Trebević has been completely demined. Areas that are not cleared are marked by yellow tape or signs, but still not all minefields have been identified due to the lack of resources and the lack of international help. Paved roads are always safe. Crime against foreigners is very rare and the city is safe to visit. (As with any country in former Yugoslavia, be careful not to get into sensitive discussions about politics with people you do not know, but even those can be very educational when you come across a person who's willing to discuss it.) Be aware of pick pockets who usually operate on public transportation.

Bosnia and Herzegovina has double the traffic fatality rate in Europe as a whole, and in the early 2020s there have been a few high-profile accidents with pedestrians. Be alert whether driving or crossing the street.

There are an incredible number of pickpockets working in the city and very few police officers on patrol; police are rarely seen. Pickpockets are very sloppy and it's pretty easy to spot them, but with that number of people picking the pockets they probably will succeed eventually.

Due to being surrounded by hills the air in Sarajevo in winter months (November-February) can be noticeably thick with pollution, so that asthmatics or those with other chest problems may find themselves short of breath a lot of the time, particularly at night. Ensure you have ample medication, just in case.

Avoid areas of the city such as Alipašino Polje, Švrakino and the surrounding areas of the Novi Grad municipality as those are mainly dangerous zones with high crime rates, shootings, violence and poverty. Go there only with locals and not during the night. Anyway it is off the tourist trail and you most likely won't have any reason to even go to those parts. Getting there accidentally is next to impossible as these rough neighbourhoods are far from the city centre and any of the sights in outlying areas.

Stay healthy

 * Water from fountains and taps in Sarajevo is safe to drink, but it may have an unpleasant chlorine odour. The mains supply may be turned off overnight.
 * The main risk to your health, land mines aside, is the strong sunlight. Usual precautions: hat, long-sleeved shirt, seek the shade and apply sun screen.
 * Pharmacies (Apotheka) are dotted around the city. Two handy for Old Town are Al-Hana on Ulika Patka, and Apoteka Baščaršija at Obala Kulina bana 40 by the riverside.

Respect
Cultural heritage from the Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian and most recently Yugoslav periods has been assimilated into modern Sarajevo as a multicultural, multireligious metropole. Catholic and Orthodox Christians and Muslims share the city, and as such, common sense regarding respect towards people of these religious backgrounds should be upheld. Even the younger generation is on average very religious in comparison to other European capitals, although not all religious traditions may be followed equally strictly. For example, young Muslims may choose to drink wine but refuse pork, while older Muslims likely abstain from both. Keep this in mind when offering presents to your host family. When visiting mosques, skin-covering clothing should be worn, and women should wear a scarf covering their hair. At the most touristic mosques, scarfs are available for visitors to borrow.

Although the Bosnian War ended with a UN enforced cease fire, the underlying conflicts between the different ethnic groups in Sarajevo are far from resolved. Many inhabitants have survived the siege of the city from 1992–95, and almost everyone has lost relatives and/or friends in the conflict. Strong anti-Serb sentiments may be present among the Bosniak population, and scars from the war are left in memory. While the war is not a taboo subject, as evidenced by the many memorials and museums scattered around the city, it remains a sensitive topic that easily brings up negative memories, if addressed uncomprehendingly. Aside from anti-Serb sentiments, many also feel dismay or anger towards the United Nations, which are blamed for the Srebrenica massacre and inadequate protection of Sarajevo citizens during the Siege.

There is an ongoing dispute between Bosnian unionists and Serb separatists, striving for the independence of Republika Srpska. Since the neighbouring town of East Sarajevo is on the territory of Republika Srpska, opinions will vary depending on where you ask in the city, although the relations are less tense than in other parts of the country and people don't have issues crossing the geographical borders. The political situation in Sarajevo in particular is complex, and outsiders taking a position may be accused of uninformed interference in internal Bosnian affairs. In general, it is advised to abstain from discussing politics, unless your conversation partner brings up the topic him/herself and asks for your opinion.

Embassies

 * 🇦🇺 Australia
 * 🇦🇹 Austria
 * 🇧🇪 Belgium
 * 🇧🇷 Brazil
 * 🇧🇬 Bulgaria
 * 🇨🇳 China
 * 🇭🇷 Croatia
 * 🇨🇿 Czech Republic
 * 🇪🇬 Egypt
 * 🇫🇷 France
 * 🇩🇪 Germany
 * 🇬🇷 Greece
 * 🇭🇺 Hungary
 * 🇮🇩 Indonesia
 * 🇮🇷 Iran
 * 🇮🇹 Italy
 * 🇯🇵 Japan
 * 🇰🇼 Kuwait
 * 🇲🇾 Malaysia
 * 🇲🇪 Montenegro
 * 🇳🇱 Netherlands
 * 🇳🇴 Norway
 * 🇵🇰 Pakistan
 * 🇵🇱 Poland
 * 🇶🇦 Qatar
 * 🇷🇴 Romania
 * Russian Federation
 * 🇸🇦 Saudi Arabia
 * 🇷🇸 Serbia
 * 🇸🇰 Slovakia
 * 🇸🇮 Slovenia
 * 🇪🇸 Spain
 * 🇸🇪 Sweden
 * 🇨🇭 Switzerland
 * 🇹🇷 Turkey
 * 🇬🇧 United Kingdom
 * 🇺🇸 United States

Go next

 * Konjic – 43 km southwest of Sarajevo, has Tito's enormous bunker and white-water trips down the River Neretva.
 * Jablanica – 20 km west of Konjic, has a notable necropolis and the railway bridge scene of the Battle of Neretva.
 * Mostar – 30 km south of Jablanica, rightly famous for its picturesque old bridge and Ottoman centre. You'll most likely pass through en route to the Adriatic coast.
 * Belgrade – The capital of Serbia, 200 km northeast of Sarajevo, is a lively cosmopolitan city.