Santa Cruz (city, Bolivia)

Santa Cruz (or Santa Cruz de la Sierra) is the capital of the department of Santa Cruz.

Understand
Santa Cruz is the most populous city and heart of the second most populous metropolitan area in Bolivia, and it is considered the most economically prosperous city in the country.

Santa Cruz is a boomtown whose population has increased tenfold in the last 25 years, it is almost in the center of Bolivia and is the capital city of the department of Santa Cruz. It lies at one end of the Death Train's line.

History
For its first 400 years Santa Cruz was very poor and far from potential markets to be able to grow at all. It shares this with the rest of eastern, northern and south eastern Bolivia for most of its history, up until some 50 years ago when a paved road was opened and the possibility of markets opened which summed with some royalties from oil production they also started receiving served as seed to one of the fastest growing cities and economies in the continent. Growth was slow to start but after some 20 years it was spectacular. Today it is difficult to imagine this city and provincial towns of the department for what they really were some 25 or 50 years ago.

Climate
In contrast to La Paz and the other major Bolivian cities located high in the Andes, Santa Cruz lies at an altitude of 416 meters, and its climate is distinctly tropical. Santa Cruz is furrowed by drainage ditches.

During the winter months of July-August, there are occasional periods when strong Southern Winds (Surazos) come from Argentina and bring a cold front accompanied by extreme winds.

Talk
Although, the country´s official language and main language is Spanish, most places (stores specially) will be able to understand Portuguese and English. If they do not speak those languages, they will probably get someone that does. The people are really friendly, they will try their truly best to talk to you if you are a foreigner.

Get in
If you arrive during carnival (during February, sometimes March) it is almost impossible to change money as everything except markets, restaurants and internet cafes are closed. Traders will accept U.S. dollars but at half the going rate. Also be prepared to be pelted with ink filled water balloons, soaked with water bombs and covered in string spray. Wear clothes you don`t mind having permanently stained.

By bus
There are many bus companies from another cities, like Cochabamba, La Paz, Sucre, Trinidad, that go to Santa Cruz de la Sierra. You can arrive from La Paz in about 18 hours, and it takes about 10 hours from Cochabamba.

To and from the Brazilian border in Corumba/Puerto Quijarro is cheaper and faster (10 hr and tickets from Bs. 40) than the famous death train.

Asunción (Paraguay) – The bus is extremely slow (the Transchaco Highway is only paved as far as the Bolivian border), buses generally travel only at night - meaning that you miss out on any views of the Chaco, and roadblocks on the Bolivian side of the border can cause your journey time to double. There is at least one bus daily. The trip takes 21-24 hr, costs US$40-60 (bargain if you can), and flights might actually only be marginally more expensive, depending on the time of booking. Any intermediate exit or boarding (like Filadelfia or Villamontes) will likely cost the same as the complete trip. But if your nerves are strong, you will get the price down bargaining directly with the bus driver.

A taxi from the bus terminal to the center will cost about Bs. 12.

By train
The "death train" (so named because of its history in transporting Yellow Fever victims) runs on bumpy tracks from Puerto Quijarro, close to Corumbá on the Brazilian side. There is a variety of different trains offering different classes and prices. The journey takes 13-17 hr. The most comfortable option, with cama seats, is the "Ferrobus" (Tu Th Sa) which costs Bs. 235 per person (Jul 2019). Expreso Oriental needs longer, but only costs Bs. 70. Tickets can be purchased days in advance at the station (Terminal Bimodal) or online (ticktsBolivia.com, plus a US$7 fee). Biting insects are plentiful, so get repellent before you go. It's also a good idea to have blankets or a sleeping bag with you in the colder months of June-August.

The railway between Santa Cruz and Puerto Quijarro is operated by Ferroviaria Oriental S.A..



For crossing the border see Puerto Quijarro.

From Corumbá the bus-ride to Sao Paulo takes about another 24 hr.

By plane

 * Getting there/away: To get into downtown Santa Cruz from the airport you have two options. The first is to take a taxi that will charge you approximately Bs. 50. This is probably the easiest and most comfortable way to get into town. Make sure to ask the driver the fare since there is not a sign with prices to different parts of the city. If you are on a tight budget the second option is a "micro" or mini-bus that waits outside the front doors of the airport that leaves every 20 min, the fare for the bus is Bs. 6.50. There is an additional surcharge of Bs. 4 for the buses that depart after 22:00. This bus follows the Cristo Redentor Avenue and then along the First Ring where it stops near the former bus terminal. To get to the main plaza, ask the driver to let you off at Libertad and Primer Anillo (First Ring). From there, it is about a seven-block walk.
 * Getting there/away: To get into downtown Santa Cruz from the airport you have two options. The first is to take a taxi that will charge you approximately Bs. 50. This is probably the easiest and most comfortable way to get into town. Make sure to ask the driver the fare since there is not a sign with prices to different parts of the city. If you are on a tight budget the second option is a "micro" or mini-bus that waits outside the front doors of the airport that leaves every 20 min, the fare for the bus is Bs. 6.50. There is an additional surcharge of Bs. 4 for the buses that depart after 22:00. This bus follows the Cristo Redentor Avenue and then along the First Ring where it stops near the former bus terminal. To get to the main plaza, ask the driver to let you off at Libertad and Primer Anillo (First Ring). From there, it is about a seven-block walk.


 * Getting there/away: Trompillo is very close to the city center, and is thus a cheaper taxi ride. Micros also pass by the airport, exit the departure hall and walk down the road to the right until you reach an intersection. Cross the street and wait for Micro 40 or 42. The information counter in the airport provides helpful information and distributes free maps.
 * Getting there/away: Trompillo is very close to the city center, and is thus a cheaper taxi ride. Micros also pass by the airport, exit the departure hall and walk down the road to the right until you reach an intersection. Cross the street and wait for Micro 40 or 42. The information counter in the airport provides helpful information and distributes free maps.

About Bolivian airlines and flying within Bolivia: Bolivia

By bus
Micros 17 and 18 travel the first ring, Micros 72 and 73 travel the second ring. To get to the center from Parque Urbano take Micro 69 or 100. You can pick up a map of all the bus routes from many "librerias" or bookstores downtown. There is also a great mobile app called Cruzero (both for iOS and Android) which contains route maps of all micros. It can also find you an optimal route if you just select the source and the destination on the city map. There is a website with the same content as well: http://cruzero.net/.

The fare for most micros is Bs. 2, but some of the ones that go further charge more, and the one that goes to the airport charges Bs. 6.

Shared taxis circulate the rings as well, they are called "trufis". Look for the signs on the roof. Faster than Micros and more comfortable because you can actually sit down. The fare for most trufis is Bs. 2.

By taxi
Taxis in Santa Cruz are relatively expensive to other Bolivian cities. Make sure to settle on a price with a driver before heading to your destination. Fares are typically around Bs. 10-15, but if the driver senses you are a tourist they may charge you upwards of Bs. 20-40. Prices to the airport may be between Bs. 60-90.

Uber has been operating in Santa Cruz. Fares are very competitive with radio taxis or taxis hailed from the street with cars generally in good condition with air conditioning. Option to pay in cash also available. InDriver is the most common app used in Santa Cruz. You set your own price for a trip and wait until a driver accepts it. You can set a lower rate but may wait longer until someone accepts. Easy Taxi is another app-based service.

See

 * El Rio Pirai - this is the river that symbolizes so much to Santa Cruz citizens.
 * Monseñor Rivero (Boulevard Cruceño) - this is where most people spend the late afternoon portion of the days; starting at 17:00.
 * La Plaza - go on a Sunday, at around 23:00... just feel the breeze, relax, and close your eyes. Also, and *very* important: get a "cafe con leche" or "cafe cortadito" from anyone who sells them, especially if you see on their shirts the name "Cafe Marcelino". Best coffee of your life.

Beyond the city
In Santa Cruz you can book some great excursions, like a trekking in Park Amboro, Noel Kempff, a river boat trip in the Amazon region, cultural excursions to the Jesuit Missions etc.

Do

 * Biocentro & Resort Güembé. Nature park with a big aviary, butterfly conservatory, monkey island, monkey enclosure and some other animals. There are also a few swimming pools and a restaurant. It's a few km out of Santa Cruz, but there is a shuttle bus from Ventura Mall going there every day at 10.00, 11.00, 12.00 and 13.00 (as of April 2018). Single fare Bs. 10. The bus stops at Cuarto Anillo street just in front of the mall. The stop is not signposted, but the bus has some Güembé labels on it. There are also return buses at 14.30 and 16.45. Entrance fee to the park is Bs. 140 which is a bit pricey for the value you get, but having said that the aviary is really nice and the whole area is really well-maintained.
 * Biocentro & Resort Güembé. Nature park with a big aviary, butterfly conservatory, monkey island, monkey enclosure and some other animals. There are also a few swimming pools and a restaurant. It's a few km out of Santa Cruz, but there is a shuttle bus from Ventura Mall going there every day at 10.00, 11.00, 12.00 and 13.00 (as of April 2018). Single fare Bs. 10. The bus stops at Cuarto Anillo street just in front of the mall. The stop is not signposted, but the bus has some Güembé labels on it. There are also return buses at 14.30 and 16.45. Entrance fee to the park is Bs. 140 which is a bit pricey for the value you get, but having said that the aviary is really nice and the whole area is really well-maintained.
 * Biocentro & Resort Güembé. Nature park with a big aviary, butterfly conservatory, monkey island, monkey enclosure and some other animals. There are also a few swimming pools and a restaurant. It's a few km out of Santa Cruz, but there is a shuttle bus from Ventura Mall going there every day at 10.00, 11.00, 12.00 and 13.00 (as of April 2018). Single fare Bs. 10. The bus stops at Cuarto Anillo street just in front of the mall. The stop is not signposted, but the bus has some Güembé labels on it. There are also return buses at 14.30 and 16.45. Entrance fee to the park is Bs. 140 which is a bit pricey for the value you get, but having said that the aviary is really nice and the whole area is really well-maintained.
 * Biocentro & Resort Güembé. Nature park with a big aviary, butterfly conservatory, monkey island, monkey enclosure and some other animals. There are also a few swimming pools and a restaurant. It's a few km out of Santa Cruz, but there is a shuttle bus from Ventura Mall going there every day at 10.00, 11.00, 12.00 and 13.00 (as of April 2018). Single fare Bs. 10. The bus stops at Cuarto Anillo street just in front of the mall. The stop is not signposted, but the bus has some Güembé labels on it. There are also return buses at 14.30 and 16.45. Entrance fee to the park is Bs. 140 which is a bit pricey for the value you get, but having said that the aviary is really nice and the whole area is really well-maintained.

Events

 * FEXPOCRUZ - Feria Exposicion de Santa Cruz / Exposition fairs
 * Gobierno Municipal de Santa Cruz de la Sierra / City hall - general tourism information
 * Gobierno Departamental de Santa Cruz / Local government - general tourism information available

Learn
Santa Cruz hosts one of the most famous soccer academy in the world. "Academia de Futbol Tahuichi Aguilera". Their unique and original way of training young soccer players to become professionals in the future. They train in rivers and ran through mountains of sand. Young players from all over the world come to this academy to experience its training method.

Eat
There are several good restaurants in the north of the city. One of the main clusters of restaurants is spread around Avenida Monseñor Rivero.


 * Capri – Many locations including Avenida Monseñor Rivero and Avenida Melchor Pinto. Excellent pizzeria with Italian-style pizza. Owned by an Argentinian of Italian descent. Pizzas cost around Bs. 50 each and are large enough to share between two people.
 * Empanaderia Las Charcas – On Avenida Melchor Pinto, one of the best empanaderias in the centre. They are fried while you wait and cost Bs. 6 or 7 each depending on the filling (the Lechón, or suckling pig, filling is one of the richest).
 * Papa Jack – A very impressive restaurant located in an ally near Avenida Monseñor Rivero. It is very clean and modern, and has many types of food in it (their definition -casual restaurant). The prices around Bs. 50 per person.
 * Picolo's – One of the local favorites. There, you can get some of the best ice cream in Santa Cruz. Look for the small Jesus statute on your tourist maps, most of them are in the Avenida Monseñór Rivero.
 * Casa del Camba – On the second ring, Tel: 342-7864. Excellent outdoor style restaurant with option to eat indoors as well. Has live music and dance floor with a traditional Santa Cruz atmosphere. Very good service, clean and reasonably priced. Friday and Saturdays are busy it can handle a lot of people.
 * Michelango's – Calle Warnes and Chuquisaca. Serves excellent Italian style food in a great atmosphere.
 * The Irish Pub – In the main plaza is a great place for meeting other tourists, locals, watching sports on TV and enjoying good food, beer, music and a cozy atmosphere. Service is slow but there is a pleasant terrace that has a good view of the main plaza. Does not have Guinness or any beer other than the usual lagers.
 * Another good tip for small snacks and eating are the Cafeterias, Cake and Ice stores in the Avenida Ayacucho (more or less the corner España) - Dumbo is quite good.
 * Another good tip for small snacks and eating are the Cafeterias, Cake and Ice stores in the Avenida Ayacucho (more or less the corner España) - Dumbo is quite good.

Quarters

 * Equipetrol – this is the neighborhood where all the night life happens! Try any club or disco there.
 * Avenida Busch is a good place to start a longer night. There are several Pubs there and you are still close to the center. If you want some classic Italian cappuccino, espresso, frappuccino or croissant there is the "Espresso del Oriente" Cafe-Pub on Bolivar Street 272 2½ blocks from the main Plaza. A during-the-week runner is the Irish pub at the main Plaza.
 * Av. Monseñor Rivero is a popular boulevard if you want a coffee or a drink.

Buy

 * Supermarkets – 5 main supermarket chain service the population. Prices are generally higher than in the Europe since a great part of the available groceries is imported. Same applies for cosmetics and accessories. IC Norte, Fidalga, Hipermaxi, HiperPlaza and SLAN basically offer the same range of producuts and none is significantly better or cheaper than the other. The Hipermaxi in Av. Banzer has usually freshly baked goods, the Fidalga on the other side of the street is pretty new and has a nice food court.
 * Clothes, furniture, etc. – In this section as well a great deal of the products is imported resulting in a higher price than usual in western countries. Cheaper, second hand articles can be found in the markets of La Ramada or Los Pozos. There are no big stores such as BestBuy or IKEA that offer this kind of secondary need products in a large scale environment.
 * Souvenirs – Although tyipical Bolivian Souvenirs can be found cheaper and in better quality and variety in the Andean region, Santa Cruz offers those as well mainly around the main Plaza 24 de Septiembre. Typically Oriental Bolivian products can be found there as well. A nice alternative is the handicrafts market on Sundays behind the main church in the so called Manzana 1. Accessories store Hevea Bolivia Accessories offers stylish handbags and accessories (you guessed it) in its own workshop made from recycled tire inner tubes. Direction is Calle Nuflo de Chavez #715, almost first ring.
 * Souvenirs – Although tyipical Bolivian Souvenirs can be found cheaper and in better quality and variety in the Andean region, Santa Cruz offers those as well mainly around the main Plaza 24 de Septiembre. Typically Oriental Bolivian products can be found there as well. A nice alternative is the handicrafts market on Sundays behind the main church in the so called Manzana 1. Accessories store Hevea Bolivia Accessories offers stylish handbags and accessories (you guessed it) in its own workshop made from recycled tire inner tubes. Direction is Calle Nuflo de Chavez #715, almost first ring.

Budget
There are some hotels close to the bus terminal which is a bit further away from the center. A large Bolivia hotels and hostels directory is www.boliviahostels.com, they offer accommodation all over the country and you can make reservations for free.


 * Cheaper alojamientos and hospedajes are located across the First Ring Road down smaller streets near Calle Mercado. Rooms here run around Bs. 40-60 for a single without a fan, or Bs. 60-90 for a single with a fan. The area can be a little rough after dark, mostly later at night. It would be recommendable to look for a place to stay here in the daylight.
 * Alojamiento Viajero - basic rooms with hard beds for Bs. 20. Next to the Samaipata Taxi company.
 * Hotel Suecia - double rooms from Bs. 80
 * Residencial 7 de Mayo - double rooms Bs. 60
 * Hotel Bibosi Junín 218, 1 block west of main square. Cheaper rooms are small and dark with only a fan, while more expensive rooms have air con and more light. Includes breakfast, cable TV, WiFi. Singles from $19.
 * Hotel Amazonas Junín 214. It is located in Downtown, Some rooms have balconies, other windows, and for those who want to avoid noise, it has indoor rooms. Includes cable Tv, WiFi, it's a good simple choice. Singles from US$18.
 * Residencial 7 de Mayo, next to the new Bus-Terminal (Ismael Montes/Interradial) - double rooms with shared bathrooms: Bs. 60
 * Hotel Amazonas Junín 214. It is located in Downtown, Some rooms have balconies, other windows, and for those who want to avoid noise, it has indoor rooms. Includes cable Tv, WiFi, it's a good simple choice. Singles from US$18.
 * Residencial 7 de Mayo, next to the new Bus-Terminal (Ismael Montes/Interradial) - double rooms with shared bathrooms: Bs. 60

Mid-range

 * Hotel Copacabana Junín 217, 1 block west of the main plaza. Tel: 336-2770. Across the street from Amazonas and Bibosi. Friendly staff, clean and modern rooms with cable TV and WiFi throughout. Rooms are small, however, and the cheaper ones don't offer much privacy. Rooms with fans start at Bs. 144. for a single. Rooms with AirCon more. Simple continental breakfast included.
 * Hotel Viru Viru - Junín 338, 2 blocks West of main plaza. Tel: 333-5298. A bit run-down, entire place needs sprucing up. Supposedly has WiFi. "Breakfast" included, offerings of which are typically gone by 8:30AM. Most rooms have cable TV and air con. The big selling point of this hotel, however, is the pool - the only hotel in town in this price range to have one. Nice on those stifling hot Santa Cruz days. Singles start at US$25.
 * Senses Boutique Hotel Calle Rene Moreno esq Plaza 24 Septiembre. Claims to be Santa Cruz's only boutique hotel. Overlooks the main plaza and the rooftop bar/restaurant offers a direct view on to the cathedral. Rooftop pool. Decorated in a minimal style. Multi-lingual staff.
 * Senses Boutique Hotel Calle Rene Moreno esq Plaza 24 Septiembre. Claims to be Santa Cruz's only boutique hotel. Overlooks the main plaza and the rooftop bar/restaurant offers a direct view on to the cathedral. Rooftop pool. Decorated in a minimal style. Multi-lingual staff.
 * Senses Boutique Hotel Calle Rene Moreno esq Plaza 24 Septiembre. Claims to be Santa Cruz's only boutique hotel. Overlooks the main plaza and the rooftop bar/restaurant offers a direct view on to the cathedral. Rooftop pool. Decorated in a minimal style. Multi-lingual staff.

If you have a layover in Viru Viru, you can rent a room in the airport if you want to take a nap or if you get in late and have an early flight the next morning. It's called en-kma and is a small dorm style room with wi-fi, bed, mini-fridge, tv, and air conditioning. It's US$10/hour but if you stay longer, they will give you a discount. It's surprisingly very clean and more comfortable than expected.

Stay safe

 * Do not go beyond the fourth ring "El Cuarto Anillo" alone with or without a car.
 * Do not participate in political demonstrations before finding out more.
 * One very positive thing about Santa Cruz is that it is mostly dog-free.

Consulates
🇺🇸 United States

Connect
Most hostels and upper hotels have proper WiFi.

A good internet cafe is at the corner of Avenida Cañoto and Buenos Aires. Its hyperfast, air conditioned and cheap.

Cheap call centers can be found everywhere in the city. Tel Viva use communication over the internet and charge Bs. 0.50/minute.

Bolivia

 * Samaipata – A small town in the mountains 2 hr away, old and beautiful. It has El Fuerte ruins and other attractions. Shared taxis leave from:
 * Expresso Samaipata (Av. Omar Chavez Ortiz 1147 esquina Soliz de Olguin - Tel. 333-5067). From the terminal take the bus number 8 to get there. They leave with at least 4 passengers, Bs 30. Takes 3 hr.
 * El Fuerte (2do Anillo Av. Grgota esq. Aruma - Tel. 359-8958). Bs. 25.


 * Cotoca – A little town 40 min away from Santa Cruz, extremely old and filled with culture. Features an interesting Sunday market. Also, in the treetops of the plaza you can find a handful of just sitting around and barely moving sloths, if you are able to spot them&mdash;if not, ask the locals. (Bring a zoom camera!)
 * Buena Vista – A little colonial town 2.5-3 hr away town with tropical climate and filled with culture / beautiful. Enjoy the fish there served on a plate, which seems to be popular.
 * San Javier – A little colonial Jesuit town 3.5 hr away with semi tropical climate and filled with culture baroque music and old cattle ranches.
 * Concepción – Another little colonial Jesuit town 4.5 hr away with semi tropical climate and filled with culture (spectacular church) and baroque music.
 * Sucre – Constitutional capital of Bolivia, white and beautiful city with relaxed atmosphere, has interesting surroundings. There are overnight buses (cama) from Terminal Bimodal (i.e. leave at 16:00 and cost 160 Bs.) on mainly bumpy roads. The ride at night may be cold, so prepare some warm clothes. Buses stop at Samaipata (though tourist info people in Terminal Bimodal may say otherwise).

Beyond

 * Asunción, Paraguay – There are buses, and the trip takes around 23 hr. Daily departures in the evening from the Nuevo Terminal. US$40-50 for a bus including food (bargain as much as you can). The travel agencies will not hesitate to lie to sell you a ticket and an old seat will become a "cama". Expect 15 to 18 police checks on the way, especially in Paraguay. The road through the Chaco is quite good, but the trip is very long.
 * Corumbá, Brazil – Take the famous Death Train to the Brazilian border and from there head west into Brazil or south into Paraguay. See Get in (By train) for more details.