Santa Cruz (Galapagos)

Santa Cruz is the most important (although not the largest) island in the Galapagos Islands archipelago, in Ecuador. It contains the largest town in the Galapagos Islands, Puerto Ayora, which is the only location on the island with tourist infrastructure, on the southern side of the island, and is connected by road and ferry to the airport on Baltra Island. It is also home to the Galapagos National Park administration, the Darwin Foundation, and the Charles Darwin Research Station.

Understand
Due to the central location of Santa Cruz in the archipelago, Puerto Ayora makes the best base for those wishing to visit the Galapagos while staying onshore. Although it is a small town, it has the best infrastructure in the Galapagos with the largest number of hotels and restaurants, as well as shopping and supplies. Services include grocery stores, pharmacies, hardware stores, boat supplies, a small hospital and a hyperbaric chamber.

History
European and American interest in the Galapagos was stimulated by the publication of William Beebe's book Galapagos: World's End in 1924. This book inspired the beginnings of the eco-tourism that today dominates the Galapagos economy. Tourism began, however, as only a trickle (one of those early tourists was U.S. President Franklin D. Roosevelt, who visited the islands in 1938). There was also a trickle of Europeans immigration to the Galapagos around this time. The largest group was 60 Norwegians, persuaded to settle on Floreana in 1927 by several young journalists and a whaler who had written about the Galapagos. Floreana turned out to be anything but the paradise the promoters promised, as the colonists came to realize after the promoters left. Most managed to survive for a difficult year or two there. Some of the survivors eventually returned to Norway, others moved to the settlement on San Cristobal, and others settled on Academy Bay on Santa Cruz, joining another group of Norwegians that had set up a cannery there the year before. Within a few years, most of the colonists left as well, but a few remained. A few years later, other Norwegians came to Santa Cruz, as well as a sprinkling of others from Europe, America, and Ecuador, all seeking a simpler life. Among them were the four Angermeyer brothers from Germany, who settled on Santa Cruz in 1935. Their descendants still live there and operate touring yachts and a hotel in Puerto Ayora.

Towns
The island is administrated as a single municipality, but contains several towns:
 * - largest town in on the island and the only one with major tourist accommodation
 * - at the center of the island
 * - near Puerto Ayora
 * - very small

By plane
Access to Santa Cruz is almost exclusively by air, with planes landing at the on the small nearby island of Baltra.

Inter-island flights are available from EMETEBE Airlines, which operates nine seater aircraft to transport passengers and their luggage from San Cristobal Airport to Isabela, Santa Cruz and Baltra islands. Bookings can be done directly through EMETEBE's website or a travel agent.

As of Nov 2022, upon exiting the Baltra airport, board a bus to the Itabaca channel for US$5 (you buy the ticket in a booth in front of the bus stop). Proceed on a ferry/a smaller water taxi for $1. At the other end of the canal you can ride the bus into town ($5, paid to the bus driver) or take a taxi ($25).

For the reverse direction, buses from Puerto Ayora to the channel only leave in the morning (Every 30mins between 7am and 9am). Check locally at the time (at least a day before your flight). If you have an afternoon flight, you'll have to take a private taxi ($25), shared taxi ($9pp) or find alternative transport.

By boat
There is public transportation (operated by Ferry Galapagos) via local speed boats to both San Cristobal and Puerto Villamil on Isabela daily. They leave at 7am and 3pm, the ride takes 2 hours and tends to be rough and noisy ($35.00, Nov 2022). If you suspect you may get seasick then you likely will, so consider taking a seasickness pill. Also the four seats at the end of the boat are less bumpy than the side ones. Some of these boats can have a bathroom, but there are no other services available on them and passengers should carry their own water or snacks.

Private yacht
Many people arrive annually by private yacht as part of a trip around the world. Puerto Ayora and Puerto Baquerizo Moreno are the main ports of entry in the Galapagos - however most sail boats will enter at Puerto Villamil. Boating in the Galapagos is restricted. A non-Ecuadorian vessel arriving from a non-Ecuadorian port may stay up to 20 days in a single port. Arrival fees are approximately $130 plus $3 per tonne for the vessel, plus $110 per person for the Park's pass and island immigration. National Immigration and Customs are about another $50.

A permit to visit the five ports in the Galapagos (Puerto Ayora, Baltra, Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, Puerto Villamil and Puerto Velasco Ibarra) can be obtained by applying in advance with a ship's agent. These permits cost $300 for the vessel, in addition to the fees above. This permit is the only way for an Ecuadorian vessel or a vessel arriving from mainland Ecuador to visit the Galapagos. Licensed Yacht Handling Agencies can assist private vessels secure cruise permits.

Get around


The only paved road on the island is between the Itabaca channel and Puerto Ayora. Busses will transport airport passengers from the ferry to Puerto Ayora and back. There are also white pick-up trucks functioning as collectivo, just wait at one of the parades but they usually won't go further than Santa Rosa. They also double as taxi

Puerto Ayora is small enough to explore by foot. Most tourism is concentrated along the waterfront. White pickup truck taxis operate and can provide transportation around town, into the highlands, or across the island. Water taxis are available at the main dock and can take you to either a waiting boat or the dock on the other side.

Elsewhere on the island

 * Lava Tunnels - the longest (up to 3 km) are on private property off farms near Bellavista or Santa Rosa; count on $5 entry fee. There is a small one 2.5 km out of Puerto Ayora on the road to Baltra which can be visited for free.



Do

 * Snorkeling - good places are Tortuga bay, Punta Estrada beach and Las Grietas.
 * Mountain biking - in Puerto Ayora there are several places to rent mountain bikes. The price is around $15 for a full day.
 * Bay Tour

Scuba diving
Diving in the Galapagos isn't cheap - count on paying at least $150 per dive.



Buy
Ecuador uses the U.S. dollar. Bring bills in smaller denominations. $100 bills are accepted in Ecuador, but only at large businesses or big hotels.







Drink
The water quality in Puerto Ayora is poor so visitors should only use bottled water for drinking and brushing your teeth. This advice comes from the scientists at the Charles Darwin Station which study the water on the island.

Puerto Ayora nightlife is not comparable to many tourist destinations. It is more relaxed. There are several bars and discos where you can go out and have a good time.



Sleep


Accommodation in Puerto Ayora is generally over-priced. There might be a 22% tax added. There are several places which privately rent rooms for $10.



Go next
It is possible to visit the following islands as day tours from Santa Cruz. Puerto Ayora is the best place on the islands to arrange a boat trip. Head out to one of the other islands:
 * Bartolome
 * Daphne
 * Floreana
 * Isabela
 * Mosquera
 * North Seymour
 * Plazas
 * Rabida
 * San Cristobal
 * Santa Fe