Sangkhla Buri



Sangkhla Buri (สังขละบุรี) is in northwest Kanchanaburi Province, close to Myanmar. It is close to the northernmost point of the huge Khao Laem Reservoir.

Understand
Sangkhla Buri is an idyllic place off the tourist trail, although it is popular with Thais who come for relaxing weekends away or to party in the floating houses.

Away from the main town, across a wonderful rickety wooden bridge, is Wangka (also known as Monside). The village was founded by Luang Phor Uttama in 1949 after he fled Burma with 60 other Mon families. Uttama stayed there until his death in 2006. Alcohol is not permitted to be drunk in public in Wangka and doing so would be hugely disrespectful. Many of the villagers speak Mon as their first language, so don't be surprised if they cannot understand Thai. An easy word to remember is "dangoon" for "thank you".

Get in
Buses go direct from Mo Chit station in Bangkok to Sangkhla Buri. The first leaves at around 05:00 and passes via Kanchanaburi. The journey takes 7-8 hours.

Kanchanburi Bus Station also has many buses. The trip takes around 5-6 hours. Tour agencies in the Mae Nam Kwai tourist area of Kanchanaburi may also be able to help you get to Sanghkhlaburi by minibus.

Red buses pass through Nam Tok (along the main road near the train station every 30 min. The fare to Sangkhla Buri is 100 baht.

To Kanchanaburi:
 * 1st class air-con bus: 08:45, 10:45, 14:30 - 4.5 hr, 180 baht
 * Non-air-con bus: 06:45, 08:15, 09:45/10:15, 13:15 - 5 hr, 110 baht
 * Minibus (departs from ticket shop at far end of road running from the bus station past the 7-Eleven and the market): 06:00, 06:40, 07:20, 08:00, 08:40, 09:30, 10:20, 11:10, 11:40, 12:30, 13:00, 14:00, 15:00, 16:00 - 3 hr, 146 baht; not every scheduled minibus actually runs; if full, a charge may apply for luggage
 * Car: 3 hours, keep your tank full as fuel is more expensive near the border.

The last bus/minibus for Bangkok leaves the bus station at 13:30, the last for Kanchanaburi at 16:00.

Get around
Green pickups depart hourly from the bus station to Three Pagodas Pass and charge 50 baht for the 30-40 min trip. If in a group, hire a songthaew so as to visit Sawanbandan Cave and other attractions as well.

The most common way to get around town is motorcycle taxi. It costs 15 baht from the centre of town to the wooden bridge (Saphan Mon). Walking is a rewarding option: an easy half-day hike can take you across the bridge and out to the wats on the Mon village side of the lake.

You can also rent a motorbike or bicycle at P Guesthouse

See



 * Saphan Mon (สะพานมอญ) - The 400 m wooden bridge (other sources claim it's 800 meters long) has been there since the mid 80s. It's the longest wooden bridge in Thailand and was destroyed in July 2013 but fully repaired. There is a small cafe on one end which is a great spot for a drink and a view. Donation boxes at either end help with maintenance for the bridge; donate and you will also receive a great photo in return. Local kids like to jump off the bridge into the lake.
 * Wat Saam Prasob (The Sunken Temple) - When the water level of the lake is low (usually after winter) you can hire a boat to take you (or hire a canoe from P Guesthouse to paddle yourself out) to see the Sunken Temple. The sunken wat is the last remaining vestige of the old town flooded for the creation of Khao Laem Reservoir. The top 1-2 m of the temple is in view in Sep.)
 * Wat Wang Wiwekaram and Chedi Buddhakhaya - Walk over the bridge to the Mon village, and bear left parallel to the lake. After 2 km the concrete road forks. Left goes to the huge golden chedi, with a small Burmese goods market below it, and right goes to the main Wat Wang Wiwekaram. The wat was built by the late Phara Uttama, who was one of the most important monks in Thailand, and is still highly revered in the Mon community. There is a large, ornate viharn at the main wat, and in another building there are murals depicting stages of the Buddha's last, and previous, lives. You may wish to hire a taxi as it's quite a long walk and it is easy to get lost in Wangka village (although people are happy to point you in the right direction).

Do

 * Visit Three Pagodas Pass and the border market (and, if the border's open, cross over to Payathonzu, on the Myanmar side of the border). The road out to Three Pagodas Pass passes a side road to a waterfall. To reach the waterfall, you must walk through the jungle and cross rivers, sometimes by swimming (at least in the rainy season). There is another side road to Wang Bandan Cave.
 * Stroll around town, go for a swim in the lake, relax, enjoy the sunrises and sunsets.
 * Join an organised hike into the surrounding jungle.
 * Visit Baan Unrak Children's Home for their Wednesday night dinner and yoga show (contact Baan Unrak Bakery for time and directions). Make a generous donation. Volunteer opportunities may be available.

Buy




Eat

 * Jimmy's House - Run by "Big Jimmy", opposite the temple on the Thai side of the bridge 50 m further on than Burmese Inn.  Good selection of delicious Western, Burmese, & Thai food. Also sells & trades books. A great source of local information.
 * Town market - if you wake up early enough, catch the early morning stalls selling Thai and Burmese breakfast snacks. At midday the market winds down but there are plenty of stalls selling cheap and tasty Thai food at the top of the hill, opposite the bus station, providing cheap food most days, but reportedly not open at weekends.
 * Toy's Restaurant-affordable Thai food with a friendly owner "Aoom" (prices start from 25 baht.)

Drink
You can do as the Thais do and order a bottle of whisky, a bucket of ice and some soda from one of the local restaurants. Beer from the local supermarkets is 42 baht for a large Chang. A selection of wines from Kanchanaburi is available from 260 baht for a bottle, a white and two varieties of red are available.

You can also head to P. Guesthouse to enjoy a farang atmosphere. P Guesthouse is very popular with Bangkok urbanites taking a short break from the city. An exquisite view across the reservoir. Especially recommended for a sunset drink.


 * Western Bar (Garden Home) - Approx 700 m from the bus station, down the hill on the right hand side. They have many cocktails and Thai beer. They also offer soft beverages and food. The place is kept very clean and also has a landscaped outside sitting area. This place is new but is already popular with farangs.

Sleep
There are a few guesthouses around 2 km from the city centre (around 10 baht by motorbike taxi). Be careful with the tap water, since it is possibly taken from the reservoir.


 * Villa Scenns: great hill & water views, all rooms are private, well equipped, clean, comfortable, air-con & ensuite; Airb&b super-host status, very kind owner, in resort zone; just 2-3 minutes to most places including the Mon bridge e-mail: scenn@scenns.com Tel: +66 (0) 806 023 184; webpage http//:www.scenns.com

Heading south from the Post Office past the High School, temple, and Baan Unrak Bakery:



Stay safe
If you see any dogs in need of medical attention Baan Unrak Thai Animal Sanctuary is based nearby.

Go next

 * Kanchanaburi
 * Three Pagodas Pass