Sandakan

Sandakan is a city of almost 440,000 people (2020) in Sabah, Borneo. It is the gateway to Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary and the Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary.

Understand
Sandakan was the capital of British North Borneo until 1946. The town prospered in the early days due to its port with visiting traders from around the world. Sandakan is an important town to Australian and British World War II history with the infamous Death Marches commencing here in 1945 and ending in Ranau. After the war, the capital was moved to Jesselton (now Kota Kinabalu).

"Sandakan" is derived from the Suluk word "sanda", meaning to pawn, and "kan" being the suffix. So "Sandakan" means the place that was pawned. Who pawned it, and to whom, remains a mystery.

Talk
Sandakan has always been a predominantly Chinese town. Unlike most other parts of Sabah, the main Chinese dialect in use among Sandakan's Chinese is Cantonese. However, the most widely spoken Chinese dialect in Sabah, Hakka, is also widely spoken and understood, as is Mandarin. Among locals of different ethnicities, the lingua franca is Malay. Most residents are able to understand and speak at least basic English. Other races, such as the Bajau and Suluk, may be able to speak their own native languages but generally these native tongues are not in common use as a lingua franca within the community.

By plane
Daily direct connections with Kuala Lumpur (by AirAsia) and to Kota Kinabalu (by Malaysia Airlines and its subsidiary MASWings). MASWings also has connecting flights with Kudat, Lahad Datu, and Tawau.



By bus
From Kota Kinabalu: several bus companies depart between 7AM-2PM, and 8PM (~5 hr, RM 33).
 * Tung Ma Express (Tel: +60 19-8827334 Mr Shim)-(buses from KK at 7AM, 8AM, 10AM, 12:30PM, 2PM, 8PM.
 * Sida Express (Tel: +60 12-816 5524 Ms. Sanita Binte Sapena) has departures from KK at 7:30AM, 9:30AM, 11:30AM, 2PM, 8PM.
 * Bunga Raya Express (Tel: +60 19-8999142 Ms. Suraidah Mohd) has departures from KK at 7:30AM, 9:30AM, 1:30PM, and 8PM.

You can purchase the full-fare ticket from Kota Kinabalu and request to be picked up from Kinabalu park HQ. (Duration from Kinabalu park about 4.5 hours. Updated Aug 2022 with Tung Ma bus. )

The bus will pass the junction to Sepilok Orang-Utan Rehabilitation Centre and you can ask to be dropped off here. The centre is about 4 km down the road and costs RM 3-5 pp by taxi to get to (drivers will be waiting at the bus drop-off).

To get to KK North Bus Terminal in Inanam get on a public bus (go to the bus station on Jalan Padang across from the State Library [RM 1.50, 20 min]) or by taxi (~RM 20).

To Semporna: buses leave from the express bus terminal for Semporna at 7:30AM, 8AM, and 2PM.

All express buses arrive at one of the express bus terminals, which are still 15 minutes from downtown, and a taxi ride to downtown should cost RM 15.

By boat
Aleson Lines runs a ferry from Zamboanga City in the Philippines every Monday at 1PM.

Get around
The city center area, near the jetty, is walkable. Otherwise, the city broadly sprawls out to the west and north up to the airport, and is best to rent a car or use Grab taxis.

By taxi
Travel by taxi out to places such as Sepilok or the War Memorial is easy, however fare negotiation will be required as meters are not commonly available. Taxi to Sepilok wait and return RM 40. Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary RM 180. Airport from downtown RM 28. [Feb 2010] Taxi to Sepilok and Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary wait and return RM 160. [Aug 2022]

By bus
There are buses and vans going everywhere in the areas around Sandakan, to the airport, Sepilok, Buli Sim Sim, etc.

By boat
There is a water taxi from Buli Sim-Sim to Pulau Berhala. For individual explorations of the islands within Sandakan Bay, it is highly recommended to book local boats only via tour agencies or experienced guides.

On foot
Sandakan is only a small town and it is easy to walk around. There is a walking trail which covers all the main sites.

Further afield




Buy
Fancy "Salted Fish"? Prawn crackers & dried shrimps are tasty and available at the local market.

Dried "Ikan Bilis" is also a locally produced product available at most shops and even at the Airport; available to bring back as gifts.

Eat
Sandakan has good and fresh seafood.


 * Restoran Ajmeer Located at mile 3 (Hing Lee) and mile 4 (Bandar Prima). Specialize in South Indian food and Malay-styled fried food. Also serve lamb briyani, fish head curry, dosai, idli, vadai and other Indian traditional food. They have been awarded as Cheap and Best Restaurant in town by Ministry of Domestic Trade and Consumer Affairs.
 * Sandakan Curry House, Beside Hotel Indah, Mile 4, Bandar Indah. Indian and local food. Excellent Fish Head Curry.
 * Habeeb Restaurant, at the third avenue in the town. Serve nice Indian and local food. Taste the Roti Cobra here.
 * Imperial Bay View, in the newly developed Harbour Square. Serve nice Chinese food with reasonable prices.
 * Ocean King Seafood Restaurant at Pasir Putih was once a famous seafood restaurant. It was closed down in the aftermath of a kidnapping incident in April 2015. The pier-like structure over the water, with indoor and outdoor seating is still there. An alternative are the seafood restaurants at Kg Buli Sim-Sim.
 * Restaurant 2020, serves non halal Chinese cuisine, but is considered expensive by local standards. Located at Bandar Kim Fung, Mile 4.
 * Several famous hawkers' centre in Sandakan. There are a few hawkers' centres at Sandakan located at Central Market (2nd & 3rd floor), Bandar Kim Fung Market, and Mile Eight Market. They provide you with delicious foods (mostly Chinese & Malay Cuisine) and the prices are very reasonable. After you've finish your foods there, do not forget to buy some kuih (something like small cake) in the market in the same building (market).
 * Several famous hawkers' centre in Sandakan. There are a few hawkers' centres at Sandakan located at Central Market (2nd & 3rd floor), Bandar Kim Fung Market, and Mile Eight Market. They provide you with delicious foods (mostly Chinese & Malay Cuisine) and the prices are very reasonable. After you've finish your foods there, do not forget to buy some kuih (something like small cake) in the market in the same building (market).
 * Several famous hawkers' centre in Sandakan. There are a few hawkers' centres at Sandakan located at Central Market (2nd & 3rd floor), Bandar Kim Fung Market, and Mile Eight Market. They provide you with delicious foods (mostly Chinese & Malay Cuisine) and the prices are very reasonable. After you've finish your foods there, do not forget to buy some kuih (something like small cake) in the market in the same building (market).

About seven kilometres outside of town in a few shoplots, there are a number of entirely or partially Chinese vegetarian restaurants serving mock meat dishes. It's a good place to stop on your way back from the Memorial Park. Also, don't forget the steamboat at the Trig Hill; it's very tasty and the seafood is very big. The price is also very reasonable.

Stay safe
Turtle eggs, while illegal, are obtainable at the local wet market at a very cheap rate. Bringing it out, or even buying it, when found by the custom officers or wildlife officers can really ruin your trip as they will press charges again you. Do not try! Do not get caught with turtle eggs in your luggage as police and customs officials will take a very serious view of this.

Due to the ongoing kidnapping threats and actions posed by pirates from the southern Philippines, there is a large military/police presence in Eastern Sabah coastal waters and a night time curfew on all vessels. (October 2017)

Go next

 * Sepilok &mdash; The Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre is where orangutans rescued from plantations and also from being kept as pets are re-adapted to living in the jungle. Most popular are the twice daily feeding times when the orangutans come out from the jungle. Besides, there are surprisingly good Botanical Gardens near Sepilok, where one can learn about Palm Oil and the rain forest, enjoy walks and boats.
 * Turtle Islands Park &mdash; Three islands in the Sulu Sea where you can see turtles laying eggs and also turtle conservation at work. You can only stay on Selingan Island. Overnight stays on Turtle Island are now offered at RM 630 per person including flights and transfers from K.K. (2017).