San Miguel de Allende

San Miguel de Allende is a colonial city in the state of Guanajuato in the Bajio mountains of central Mexico, about northwest of Mexico City. In 2020, the town had 72,000 residents, in a metropolitan area of 160,000.

It's a tourist destination, an art colony, and a retirement community for 20,000-25,000 foreigners – mostly Americans, Canadians, and Europeans. In spite of the increased number of foreigners over the past decades, it still is charming enough that many Mexicans visit for special holidays, and there are more than a few visitors who buy a house within a few days of their first arrival.

Understand
San Miguel is, first and foremost, a city built for relaxing. It is a Spanish colonial town of 72,000 people (2020). The urban area has 160,000 people. It is a heritage site protected by the Mexican government in order to maintain its character. In 2008 it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Founded as "San Miguel el Grande" in 1542 by the Franciscan monk Juan de San Miguel, it became a centerpiece in the war for Mexican independence from Spain. After the war, in 1826, San Miguel was given city status and renamed San Miguel de Allende after Ignacio Allende, a hero of the independence movement, the "first Mexican soldier" and a native of the city. In danger of becoming a ghost town in the early 20th century, the town was declared a national monument in 1926 and building became heavily restricted in the town's historic centro district, allowing the city to keep the colorful native facades that have become the backdrop of many famous works of art and even modern motion pictures.

A series of artist colonies were founded in San Miguel in the 1950s, including the famous Instituto Allende, and many American ex-soldiers moved their families here following World War II either to attend one of these colonies or to escape the polio scares raging through many U.S. cities. The result was a healthy American expatriate population that exists today mostly as elderly retirees and second-generation business owners. This population, combined with wealthy Mexicans (especially actors and politicians) that have rediscovered San Miguel as a Malibu-like retreat from Mexico City, has created an eclectic mix of Old World Mexican charm, American hospitality, and a party atmosphere that makes San Miguel a world-class destination for adventurous travelers.

Climate
San Miguel's weather is typical of central mountainous Mexico. It varies little, and even in the hottest months (May and June) when daytime temperatures can reach 35°C, the dry air makes it tolerable and cool mountain breezes tend to make evenings delightful. Winter evenings (from December to February) can get cold, even down to freezing overnight, but it warms up quickly in the morning. The rainy season extends from June to September when days are pleasant for sightseeing until heavy downpours (usually late in the afternoon and evening) cool and freshen the air. The climate has the same lazy, quiet air and temperance as Palm Springs, encouraging long hours of swimming and pool-side tanning, reading or napping, or just lying in a hammock and forgetting the world exists.

Watch
The movies Once Upon a Time in Mexico and And Starring Pancho Villa as Himself were filmed almost entirely in San Miguel.

From the León (BJX) and Querétaro (QRO) airport
The closest airports to San Miguel are the Aeropuerto Bajío/León, about 95 km (55 miles) west of San Miguel de Allende and Aeropuerto Querétaro , about 90 km (50 miles) southeast of San Miguel de Allende. Arriving at either of these airports will reduce your final journey to a relatively inexpensive hour shuttle or cab ride into town. Aeromexico Connect, Viva Aerobus, Volaris and Magnicharters offer flights from Cancun, Chicago, Los Angeles, Mexico City, Monterrey, Puerto Vallarta and/or Tijuana to the region in addition to United Express and American Eagle with flights from Houston Intercontinental and Dallas/Ft Worth respectively.

Rides from the two airports
When taking a taxi from one of the two airports, make sure you use an approved taxi service (the green and white cars are official taxis). Uber and Didi drivers may be willing to try picking you up, but risk being pulled over by the police and ordered to turn around and take you right back.

Even still, if you don't know San Miguel that well, you may want to consider calling ahead to your hotel or B&B and having them provide transport. This will almost always be cheaper than taking a taxi from the airport. Regional taxis may know how to get you to San Miguel, but only a taxi or car sent by your lodging will know how to get you straight to them. The driver will meet you inside the terminal, in the area where you clear customs. You can arrange transportation through your hotel, etc., or book direct with one of the many shuttle services listed on San Miguel websites. From the Querétaro or León airports the company Bajiogo offers a shuttle for around M$500-600 (Jan 2024), and will drop you off to your exact location. This is a good deal if you're by yourself, but maybe be similar to the price of a taxi if you have two people.

By bus from the two airports
From the Querétaro airport to the Querétaro bus terminal, it's convenient to take a taxi or go by e-hailing. From there are direct intercity buses to San Miguel de Allende.

From the León airport it's not really convenient by bus. As of January 2024 there's no bus from the airport itself to San Miguel, only to León. You could catch a bus to Leon and then transfer, or try to walk farther from the airport and catch a bus along the road (see the Guanajuato article for more details).

From the Mexico City airport (MEX)
Your flight may be less expensive if you go through Mexico City.

Primera Plus offer hourly buses from Mexico City's Benito Juarez International Airport (MEX) to Queretaro and Celaya where you can transfer to another bus to San Miguel. It's a 4- to 5-hour trip. Alternatively, you could go to the northern bus terminal (Autobuses del Norte, Metro line 5). From there it's a direct 3:50h ride in an intercity bus.

Do not try to take a non-prepaid taxi from the MEX airport. The taxi drivers in Mexico City are well-trained to cheat you by charging you three or four times the cost of a trip to San Miguel. It's simply not worth the hassle. If you're hell-bent on flying into Mexico City and not taking a bus, call ahead to the hotel or B&B where you're staying and ask them to send a taxi from San Miguel. Yes, they may charge you for both the trip to and from the airport, but it will be infinitely less expensive than if you try to pick up a taxi from the street outside the Mexico City airport. It is very important not to pick up a taxi from the street outside the Mexico City airport for safety reasons, in any case. Take one of the official airport taxis to your hotel. These "Transporte Terrestre" taxis are the only ones allowed inside the airport. You will buy a zone-priced ticket ahead of time inside the airport by walking all the way down to the right (several hundred meters) after exiting the international arrivals area.

By carpooling
From cities around you can have a look for shared rides on Blablacar.

By bus
The town is well-served by first-class and second-class buses and tickets for both can be purchased at the station. From there to the city center take one of the frequent local buses marked 'Central'. It costs M$8 (Dec 2021) and can be paid in cash.

From Guanajuato go Primera Plus and ETN for about M$160 (Dec 2021). You get 10% discount when you buy your ticket online.

The following intercity bus companies serve San Miguel de Allende:



By car


If you're an experienced driver in Mexico, you'll have few problems reaching San Miguel. It's less than two hours from León and one hour from Querétaro, and maybe a three-hour drive from Mexico City. The only difficulty will come when you reach San Miguel. Parking spaces are at an absolute premium here, so you'll want to arrange to have a spot for your car waiting when you arrive. Additionally, the cobblestone streets were not designed for modern traffic, so driving around San Miguel can be a challenge. Most people walk or take a US $2 cab ride anywhere downtown.

If you've never driven much in Mexico, driving to San Miguel is not difficult. While San Miguel is on the side of a mountain ridge, most of the roads leading to it are in excellent condition and safe to drive, at least during the day. Since much of this area is "free range" land, horses and cattle may find their way onto the road, especially at night.

Seniors and tourists touring the region may find sightseeing more difficult because of the locals' propensity to drive fast along these two-lane highways. It's not much fun having a car on your bumper while trying to see the beautiful countryside in this area. Slower drivers often drive partly on the shoulder to let faster traffic pass.

On foot
Maybe 90% of San Miguel's attractions are within walking distance. Just keep in mind that because San Miguel was built into the side of a mountain, it can turn out to be difficult to traverse, some inclines are 15 or 20 degrees. Furthermore, the streets are cobbled and narrow – some were nothing but goat tracks before they were paved – and many have fallen into disrepair. Curbs are often a high step away from the road. All in all, the town can be unforgiving to an inexperienced walker. For this reason, it is advisable to bring comfortable shoes.



By e-hailing
Uber and Didi cover the city.

By bus
San Miguel has its own pleasant and reliable bus system that serves the entire town, including out-of-the-way places like the Luciérnega Shopping Center. Buses are called urbanos and run from 07:00-21:00 daily for a flat rate of M$8 (Dec 2021) inside the city center (single ride, no transfer, driver gives change).

The schedule is every 15-20 minutes in the central city; every 1-2 hours to and from outlying areas in the municipality. Routes are never referred to by their number but by the name of the destination. There is no route map. Destinations are generally marked or painted on the side or on the windshield. Centro means downtown and Central means bus station.

Buses are white with color-coded trim. All the blue-white and orange-white buses pass the stop opposite the Oratorio de San Felipe Neri downtown. Yellow-white buses make a circle around town passing near Centro and Central. All red-white, green-white, purple-white buses and some yellow-white buses connect to the outlying suburbs and are boarded at various stops located several blocks outside the center of town.

By taxi
Catch a taxi to any destination within central San Miguel for M$35-40 (2016), and M$40-50 after dark. In-town taxis are abundant and a great option after an afternoon of shopping. Taxis do not use meters and the price should be confirmed first. Taxis in front of the bus station are notorious for over-charging; most locals walk a few meters past them to flag down a cab on the street. If calling for a taxi to pick you up, the price doubles. If planning a late night out, most taxi drivers can be trusted to keep an appointment if the pickup time is arranged in advance.

By tourist trolley
Two different companies provide sightseeing rides using trolley-looking buses. You can ask for tickets in the main tourist office just in the main square. The ride lasts 1½ hours (if traffic allows) and reaches the top of the El Mirador hill for a fantastic view of the town.

By car
Driving in San Miguel can be challenging due to very narrow streets and limited parking, and is best avoided. There was a time when the city was not so wealthy and only taxis could be found on these roads. Now that the real estate market has boomed, an influx of money has made cars more affordable and now the average resident is more likely to own one – good news for the economy, but bad news for the roads.

Many two-way streets in San Miguel are too narrow to support two lanes of traffic, and it's not uncommon for a street to become so choked with cars that drivers have to get out and negotiate which one is going to back up to a wider street to let the other pass. Many streets are one-way and indicated by arrow signs placed on the sides of buildings; a double arrow indicates a two-way street.

Watch out for very steep streets. They can get even steeper than you realize and at least one in San Miguel is so narrow at the bottom that no more than a medium-sized car with its side mirrors pulled in can safely maneuver between the buildings. Scratches on the walls attest to drivers who have literally had to scrape between the buildings. Backing up the hill is usually not an option. Following a city bus is a good way to guarantee not getting into a tight situation.

On-street parking regulations are widely ignored by Mexicans. If you park on the street, do NOT leave it parked for more than 24 hours (There are no signs warning about this). Parking violations may result in the transit police removing your license plates. You will then need to find the police station, pay a fine, and hope that your plates are returned. A better alternative is that there are several paid parking lots in town; look for 'E' signs indicating estacionamiento (parking).

Out of town trips

 * Thermal pools just outside of town for an afternoon of relaxation. Hail a taxi or grab a bus for just a few dollars to these pools, but be sure to arrange return transportation or know when the last bus arrives. The only hotel near the pools is said to be expensive and generally booked.
 * with five warm water pools and a grotto. The area is nice styled. Offered is a day ticket for M$250 (Dec 2021). You can enter the e.g. along the Calz de La Luz or Calz de La Aurora. This route is operated by the bus lines 7 and 8. The ride costs M$10 (Dec 2021). Inside the area is a restaurant. It is not allowed to bring food – only water. Bags are checked at the entrance. The opening hours are from Wednesday to Sunday 7:00-17:00.
 * Atotonilco is a historic church approx. 10km outside of SMA. The sanctuary services as a piligramage desitination and the site where Ignacio Allende met up with Father Hidalgo to begin their fight for Mexican Independence.
 * Dolores Hidalgo is 40 km away and is worth a visit as it is the birthplace of Mexican independence - and a great place to sample odd ice cream flavors like pork rind and avocado.
 * Dolores Hidalgo is 40 km away and is worth a visit as it is the birthplace of Mexican independence - and a great place to sample odd ice cream flavors like pork rind and avocado.

Spanish
Several schools offer classes and arrange a 'home stay' with a host family for a very good price.



Art
San Miguel's many art institutes are always open to travelers looking to discover (or become the next) Frida Kahlo. Painting, sculpture, printmaking, photography, you name it and it's probably there.



Buy
In the centro you can find ATMs of BanCoppel, BanBajío, Banco Azteca and citybanamex.

There are some minimarkets and Oxxo's in the center.



Arts and crafts
The streets around the Jardín are full of specialty shops selling common souvenirs, clothing, art, furniture, and Mexican tile, and any other type of Mexican artwork that you can think of. In addition to its cultural staples, San Miguel de Allende is known for its amazing shopping. Being near the geographical center of the country, artisans from every part of Mexico have been known to send their artwork to San Miguel to be sold.

Whenever possible, buy directly from the artisan. Many amazingly talented artists are not able to support their families due to the low prices they receive for their art. At times it is very necessary to bargain and at other times inappropriate – use your intuition and allow for mistakes.

Ladies: don't forget to pick up a pair of San Miguel shoes as soon as you arrive. Your walk around town will be much more comfortable.



Mid-range




Drink


This city is filled with clubs, bars, dance halls, and restaurants, and almost all of them have some plan for every night of the week. Following are just a few options, try these out, but also seeking your own favorite hang-out.



Stay safe
San Miguel de Allende, while perhaps safer than other tourist destinations in Mexico, can be unsafe. Most tourists don't have a problem when visiting San Miguel de Allende, but you should still exercise caution while on your visit. Use common sense, keep your valuables and cash out of sight and stay in well lit areas at night.

Connect
Additionally restaurants and cafés now offer free wi-fi for their patrons. Otherwise internet cafes are ubiquitous and typically charge around M$20 per hour.

Cope

 * Atención San Miguel is a weekly bilingual newspaper that is the main source of local news for English speaking residents and visitors. The calendar of the week's events is particularly useful. Atención is published on Friday and is widely available at newsstands and businesses.
 * Green Map San Miguel  uses an interactive map with layers of information on sustainable living in San Miguel. Look here for information on restaurants that serve organic and/or local food, recycling and composting, greentech businesses, green organizations and bus routes.

Consulates

 * 🇺🇸 United States

To the west:

 * Guanajuato – 80km. The capital of the state. It is known for its network of tunnels under the city and for its "Museo de las Momias" (mummy museum), and you can also see Cristo Rey atop the Cerro de Cubilete.
 * Guadalajara – 340 km

To the north:

 * San Luis Potosí – 180 km

To the south-east:

 * Querétaro – 70 km. The capital of the state with the same name is a 45-minute drive away and also has a beautiful world heritage listed old town.
 * Mexico City