San Cristóbal de las Casas

San Cristóbal de las Casas is in the southern Mexican state of Chiapas. It is the cultural capital of the state, and was designated a 'Pueblo Mágico' by the Mexican government in 2003. It has retained much of its Spanish colonial character in its street plans and architecture. The Spanish pronunciation is "cris-TOH-bal", with emphasis on the middle syllable, though many English speakers emphasize the last syllable instead.

Understand
Founded by the Spanish in 1528, San Cristóbal de las Casas was the political capital of Chiapas until the end of the 19th century, when that role was transferred to Tuxtla Gutierrez. It has a large indigenous population made up primarily of Tzotzil- and Tzeltal-speaking Mayans.

For many visitors, San Cristóbal is associated with the Zapatista uprising and its charismatic leader Subcomandante Marcos, who suddenly seized control of the city center in January 1994 demanding justice and equal rights for the state's large and neglected indigenous population. Although the Zapatistas managed to achieve some of their aims, most of their goals have not yet been met, and the movement continues to simmer.



Climate
Because of its high altitude (2,200 m), San Cristóbal has a more temperate climate and it is easy to forget that one is actually in the tropics. In the summer high temperatures tend to be around 25°C with lows averaging about 10-11°C, while in winter temperatures can range from 4-20°, with lows occasionally dropping below 0°C. As in most of Mexico, most buildings do not have central heating, so visitors in winter will want to have warm clothing.

Read
Michael Spurgeon, Let the Water Hold Me Down. A fictionalized account of the Zapatista uprising, told from the standpoint of an American resident who found himself caught unawares in events leading up to the 1994 uprising.

By plane
The closest airport to San Cristóbal is Ángel Albino Corzo International Airport in Tuxtla Gutierrez, a drive of about 1 hour 15 minutes. The fare for a taxi is M$600 per taxi to San Cristóbal (and M$200 to Tuxtla). Collective shuttles direct to San Cristóbal (on Bl Juan Sabines Gutiérrez, just West of the ADO station) can usually be found right beyond the taxi stand, for M$240. (these coincide with the arrival or departure of flights).Most tour agencies in town also operate shuttle services to the airport for about M$200, generally one or two a day, and will pick you up at your place of stay.

By bus
The bus network for getting around Mexico is safe, clean, reliable and affordable. There are multiple companies with professional and helpful ticket clerks at most main stations. The roads to San Cristóbal are winding and can be dizzying so some choose the option to take a bus and let a professional driver do the work. You can see the beautiful greenery of Chiapas all around you on the trip through the big bus windows, or pull the curtain to nap. The bus and colectivo companies have their own stands and stations clustered around Av Insurgente and Carretera de las Americas (Hwy 190) in Barrio San Diego (SE part of town).



By colectivo and ómnibus
There are many other public transportation modes from Tuxtla to San Cristóbal: taxi, colectivo, and collective suburbans. The taxi drivers all know where these are located. Local travel agents in Antigua Guatemala and San Cristobal de las Casas sell tickets for direct colectivos between Antigua, Panajachel and San Cristobal las Casas.

(on the Pan-American Highway, 24 hr) from Tuxtla Gutierrez, Ocosingo, Comitán, and Palenque all operate from depots that are just south of the bus station.

From Tuxtla one can take an Ómnibus de Chiapas that leaves every 20 minutes to San Cristóbal for about M$40.

Get around
If you are reasonably mobile you should be able to walk anywhere within the city without strain. Bicycles are also a good way to get around if you have an adventurous side.

By taxi
Taxis are all over the place (a little too many of them, honestly) and easy to flag down. Rates are negotiable, and are generally M$30-40; after 22:00 fares go up by M$5. Ask the price before getting in to make sure that you get the going rate.

Because of a number of assaults by drivers, solo women are strongly advised to avoid hailing taxis on the street after dark. It is best to call for one or have one called for you.

By colectivo
The main form of public transportation for locals come in the form of a van or minibus. Colectivos run fixed routes, with destinations painted on the windshield. Passengers can be picked up or dropped of any point along the route for a fare of M$8(as of Feb. 2022), free for children under six. Be prepared for a cramped ride and frequent stops but hey, that's just part of the fun.

See

 * There is a drum and brass band and singers who perform patriotic melodies at 08:00 Mondays at the main square. Musicians may be found at the square evenings as well.
 * Constant cultural activities around the Centro.
 * There is a drum and brass band and singers who perform patriotic melodies at 08:00 Mondays at the main square. Musicians may be found at the square evenings as well.
 * Constant cultural activities around the Centro.
 * There is a drum and brass band and singers who perform patriotic melodies at 08:00 Mondays at the main square. Musicians may be found at the square evenings as well.
 * Constant cultural activities around the Centro.
 * There is a drum and brass band and singers who perform patriotic melodies at 08:00 Mondays at the main square. Musicians may be found at the square evenings as well.
 * Constant cultural activities around the Centro.
 * There is a drum and brass band and singers who perform patriotic melodies at 08:00 Mondays at the main square. Musicians may be found at the square evenings as well.
 * Constant cultural activities around the Centro.
 * Constant cultural activities around the Centro.

Do
Stroll around town, enjoy the environment and lovely buildings, visit cafés, restaurants, churches and squares. San Cristóbal has an active nightlife when it comes to the artistic scene, including clubs, electronic events, live concerts, jams, cabarets and niche local cinema.

Work
After the Zapatista movement came out of the jungle in 1994 a great load of NGOs came to San Cristóbal. Nowadays you can find lots of interesting projects with many NGOs working in and around the city.


 * Natatéworks on sustainable projects in San Cristóbal and within the state of Chiapas. Nataté works in different fields: education, water and waste management (dry toilets, water filtering), reforestation, construction. Short and long term projects are available.
 * FrayBa sends Human Rights Observers to Zapatista communities.

People should be aware of cultural issues in this region. While San Cristóbal has done a great job of cleaning up, there is serious poverty if you scratch the surface. 75% of people in Chiapas live in poverty, by far the highest rate in Mexico. The native people suffer a lot so please treat them with respect and kindness. Also, the Zapatista communities are sick and tired of the "hand out" mentality of a lot of NGOs. If you want to interact with the Zapatistas, do it on their terms. Ask plenty of questions. They have a lot more to teach you than you do them.

Eat
On and around the main square there are many sit-down restaurants. You can find cheaper food at the local street vendors and at the markets.

Go to the main public market and eat tamales for breakfast. Another local specialty is sopa de pan which you will probably not find in any restaurant catering to tourists. You will find it in the comedors in the market. That is the best food in town.

On Saturdays many houses sell tamales out their front door. Look for the red lights. On any given evening there are places where people make antojitos on the street in front of their houses. This is real local food.

At certain times of the year different insects are consumed in different ways. Pay attention in the market and you might have the chance to try something really exotic.

A lunch time bargain is in the different cantinas. These are family places: order a beer and you will get a little plate of food to go with it - house choice. It's cheap and excellent, though you might get drunk in the process.

City center
In the streets around the intersection of Francisco León and Av Insurgentes are several inexpensive restaurants. (updated Sept 2022)



Drink
Most all restaurants serve filtered water. The local drink here is "posh" or pox. It is a hard liquor made from cane and has been used traditionally for healing and partying. It is frequently served in ponche – a pineapple or fruit hot punch with a special bread broken into it.

Bars
Nightly there are many bars with music on the same street, including:


 * (aka El Revo, . Most of the music is performed by local musicians in the clubs and restaurants.
 * (in the Santa Clara Hotel on the SE corner of the Zócalo, ), with nightly music.



Sleep
San Cristóbal is considered by some to be the backpackers hub in Chiapas. Some accommodation should be found for around M$50. There are signs on buildings advertising rooms for that amount, though they may have common bathrooms. Very nice hotels such as Hotel Real del Valle on Guadalupe just off the main square may be had for M$200.

Stay healthy
Most people that travel to San Cristóbal never have a need to seek medical attention. But accidents can happen and people do get sick. If you do fall ill or hurt, San Cristóbal has good doctors, dentists and hospitals who will be capable of treating you. Local English-speaking doctors can be recommended by a good hotel, and most of the higher-quality hotels that cater for foreign visitors have a doctor on call at all times. Ask at reception.

Should you simply have nausea, consider buying some Bonadoxina at the local pharmacy. As always, check with the pharmacist regarding your specific symptoms and potential allergic reactions.

Mayan villages in the surrounding mountains
There are a number of nearby Mayan villages easily accessible by public transportation or via a day tour. Some villages welcome visitors, while others do not. The closest and most accessible are San Juan Chamula and Zinacantán, and others equally fascinating and worth visiting include Tenejapa, San Andres Larrainzar, and San Pedro Chenalho. The best day to visit a Maya community is during its festivals and weekly market.

A good guide, should you choose one, will help to give you a deeper understanding of modern Maya life and some of the unusual customs you may observe. Guides can be picked up daily at 09:30 in the main plaza by the cathedral. Tours generally return around 14:30 (lunch time in Mexico). Alex y Raul Tours costs M$300 as of Nov 2023. If you time your visit for Day of the Dead (1-2 November), you will witness a very different and moving Mayan celebration from some of the more 'commercial' celebrations in the cities

There are no colectivos connecting Chamula directly with Zinacantán; if you want to visit both on the same day you will need to return to San Cristóbal after visiting each village before proceeding onward or take a cab from one to the other (M$110). Also, visitors should not photograph any villagers without permission – failure to follow this rule can result in physical assault and/or loss of your camera.


 * The Tzotzil village of San Juan Chamula is primarily known for its distinctive church as well as its colorful Sunday market. From San Cristóbal, frequently departing cost M$20 and take about 20 minutes, dropping off passengers a block away from the Chamula's main plaza.
 * San Lorenzo Zinacantán, also a Tzotzil community, is most well-known for its and Sunday . Men wear distinctive embroidered pink or purple tunics, while women wear richly embroidered purple shawls and skirts. No photographs at all of the interior or exterior of church are permitted. You can also visit some artisan fabric maker where you can purchase some beautiful and handmade piece of clothes, bags, etc. Theoretically all visitors should pay an admission fee at a booth by the main church, but this is not always staffed.  (across the street from the main market) cost M$25 and take about 20 minutes.

El Arcotete
The Arcotete is one of San Cristóbal's best kept secrets. Similar to Rancho Nuevo but much nicer and closer to San Cristóbal, located about 5-10 km from the city in the direction of Tenejapa (signs are well placed to find El Arcotete). M$10 per person. It has been remodeled into a park offering nice walking grounds surrounded by Pine trees, picnic areas, and nice look out vantage points. A great day to spend a couple of hours or the whole day enjoying a picnic or a pickup soccer game. It costs M$15 to enter the part of (Las Grutas) The Caves. El Arcotete will provide a wonderful experience enjoying nature's work at best. Check it out for yourself.

Further afield

 * Cañón del Sumidero - This is a worthwhile half-day trip from San Cristóbal. Boat trips leave regularly and take approximately two hours to head 34 km up river to the Chicoasén Dam, and return. Along the way you pass by thousand-metre-high cliffs, wildlife including birds and crocodiles up to 4 m long, cacti growing on the canyon walls, a shrine in the Cave of the Colours, and the surreal El Árbol de Navidad or the Christmas Tree Waterfall. On the way back stop in Chiapa de Corzo to explore the lively square, colourful church, and intricate 16th-century fountain. Most tour agencies in San Cristóbal will charge M$430 (Nov 2023) for this trip.
 * El Chiflón and Lagunas de Montebello National Park - There are daily tours from San Cristóbal to these two natural wonders, though it is a long near twelve hour day of travel, with approximately 7 hours in a bus for 5 hours of sightseeing. El Chiflón is home to a spectacular series of cascades and waterfalls, the highest falling 120 m. On a sunny day the water is turquoise and it is possible to swim in the pools during the dry season. A path follows the river upstream, and is increasingly steep, but offers wonderful views. Parque Nacional Lagos de Montebello is home to a number of beautiful lakes in varying shades of green and blue. A typical tour will stop at Laguna Tziscao, Laguna Bosque Azul, Laguna La Cañada, and Lago Montebello, with photo opportunities, and at a couple of them the chance to hire a wooden raft for a circuit of the lake.
 * Laguna Miramar - Visit one of the most beautiful lakes in the Lacantun Jungle in the south of Chiapas. Visiting Laguna Miramar requires planning and organization. It is inside Zapatista territory. Do not attempt to go there without a guide. Do bring everything you will need, there is nothing to buy there.
 * Oventic -From San Cris market you can take a van that leads to Oventic. This is a caracol or independent zapatista community. Bring your passport or official documents. People at the entrance will ask you questions to evaluate if you would be allowed inside the place. Very nice murals. Close to the town of san Andres which is also worth a visit
 * El chorreadero- Nice waterfalls with small natural pools where people can take a swim. You can check out the cave where the waterfall is born and then follow your way down. In the very last pool people can practice naturism.
 * To get there take a van from San Cris to Tuxtla Gutierrez and ask to be left in Chiapa de Corzo. Under the bridge look for collectives or taxis direction Bochil and that will leave you close to the waterfall entrance.


 * Oaxaca - Many backpackers head to Oaxaca (city), and then hop on the increasingly popular Pacific Coast Backpacker Trail to Puerto Escondido, Mazunte, Zipolite, and Huatulco
 * Guatemala Many private shuttles to Guatemala leave early in the morning by the Zocalo. Some will go door-to-door. From there it is about 6 hours to cross the border.