Salem (Massachusetts)

A charming New England seaside destination, Salem offers visitors the requisite bevy of enthralling elements: a world-class museum, compelling oceanfront and maritime history, quirky shops and tempting restaurants. They're all here and vying for your attention. However, one event in Salem's 400-year history looms above all else&mdash;the Salem witch trials. One of the most notorious cases of mass hysteria, the trials saw over 200 people charged with witchcraft, 25 of whom died as a direct result. Try as they might, the city was never able to memory hole the events of 1692. So eventually they changed tack, leaning into the lore of witches and magic. Today the "Witch City" plasters its civic institutions with witch silhouettes, they even built a baseball diamond atop Gallows Hill Park. The plan seems to have worked, tourists have responded and business is up. You know what they say, "time heals all wounds".

Understand
For thousands of years before the arrival of Europeans, the Naumkeag people enjoyed life on this rocky peninsula. Contact with early explorers was calamitous, and disease would shatter their society. Throughout the 17th century, a series of wars and pogroms pushed them to the brink of extinction. In 1686, Naumkeag survivors pressed their claim in court, and were given £20 (roughly $5,000 today) in payment for their land.

Salem is perhaps best known for the Salem witch trials, which began during the winter of 1692. Two little girls began behaving erratically, acts which town elders quickly deemed "witchcraft". A flurry of accusations and trials would play out over the course of the following year. By the time the outrage subsided, over 200 villagers stood accused of witchcraft. 19 were hanged, 5 died in jail, and one was pressed to death. In hindsight, the major political upheaval of the day combined with neighborly quarrels likely sparked the mass hysteria. The accused were overwhelmingly women (78%), and were often impoverished, having little means to speak of.

During the American Revolution, hundreds of large privateers arrived in Salem to assist the patriot cause. These vessels and their crews saw a great deal of action, scuttling somewhere around 600 British ships. Post-war, sea captains turned their attention to distant lands; the East Indies, China, and Zanzibar to name but a few. Warships were modified to support commerce, and bold Captain-entrepreneurs imported pepper, silks and other luxuries with windfall profits. Today, the legacy of these riches remains on full display throughout the many overlapping historic districts of this city of 44,000 people (2020).

Orientation
Derby Street is of primary concern to any visitor. Running roughly east to west, it passes through the Maritime District on its way to the ferry terminal. Equally as important is Essex Street, roughly paralleling Derby one block behind the harbor. The vast majority of tourist attractions are found between these two streets. At their western boundaries, you'll encounter Washington Street. This north-south thoroughfare holds the train station at its northern end. Cross Washington to find Summer Street, where your walking tour of the Chestnut Street District begins. The architecture here is stunning, but the shops and restaurants mostly drop away.

For those venturing further afield; Salem Willows and Winter Park can be found to the northeast. Follow Derby until it becomes Fort Ave. To the south, Pioneer Village and Salem University can be reached by following Washington until it merges with Lafayette Street. The more modern areas of Salem (the hospital, the Target, et al) can be found to the southwest, after Essex turns into Highland Ave.

Read and watch

 * The Witch (2015 film) &mdash; Set about 60 years before the witch trials, watch this darkly atmospheric film to sample some of the deepest fears held by Puritanical New Englanders. Exactingly detailed in its period sets and themes; you've never seen a goat or a forest with peculiarities like these.
 * Hidden History of Salem (2010 book) &mdash; While not widely distributed, this quick read by Susanne Saville is a collection of short stories&mdash;mostly focusing on topics other than the witch trials. Worth exploring for those interested in lesser-known facts about the town.
 * The Crucible (1996 film) &mdash; Based on Arthur Miller's groundbreaking 1953 play; this is a faithful adaptation of Miller's dramatized story of the Salem witch trials. While the film doesn't go quite as hard delving into the political allegories that made the play so forceful; it does feature "spectacular" performances by Daniel Day-Lewis, Joan Allen, and Winona Ryder.
 * I, Tituba, Black Witch of Salem (1986 book) &mdash; This French Grand Prix award winning novel by Maryse Condé was translated into English in 1992. Traumatic and compelling, the life of Tituba is reconstructed from historical records and skillfully blended with fantasy. Gives a voice to one of the accusees least heard from during the witch trials.
 * The House of the Seven Gables (1851 book) &mdash; A gothic romance novel by Nathaniel Hawthorne. Set in the titular home, it weaves together an array of human emotions with a supernatural flair. The book was quite influential on H.P. Lovecraft, if you're into that sort of thing. Sections can feel dated, with some contemporary readers finding it a slog to get through.

Visitor information
The climate in Salem is roughly identical to nearby Boston. Summers are typically warm and humid, while winters are cold and stormy and feature the occasional bout of snow. Spring and fall tend to be cool to mild, with a commensurate uptick in tourism during the annual autumnal fireworks.





Get in
If you're day tripping from Boston and just concentrating on the core downtown area, your best bet could be the train. It's affordable, takes a &frac12; hour, and runs somewhat often. The ferry provides outstanding views, but it takes an hour and is more expensive and infrequent. A car can be a good idea if you're visiting other north shore locations, but high season parking can be challenging. The trip might take 30 minutes to an hour or more depending on traffic.

By boat




By car
From Boston and points south, take Route 1 north, then merge onto MA-128 north, which is also labelled as Yankee Division Highway on some maps (although no-one calls it that). Next you'll take exit 40A and merge onto MA-114 east. From points north, take Interstate 95 south to Route 1 south, and follow signs for MA-114 east, Peabody and Salem. Continue on 114, pass under Route 128, and a few miles after that you'll cross the North River. You're in downtown Salem! Drop your vehicle off as soon as possible. Parking is quite challenging during most of the summer, and is especially tricky during the month of October. Driving in Salem on Halloween&mdash;or the closest weekends&mdash;is the stuff nightmares are made of.

By bus
A few infrequent and slow MBTA buses provide service to Salem. They are the cheapest option ($2.40 from Logan Airport in 2023), but tend to be more useful as a means of escape. The 450 and 455 bus routes travel to Lynn, the 435 to Peabody, and during weekday rush hours the 451 goes to Beverly. There is no Sunday service to Salem on the 435 bus. The 455 always runs out from the Wonderland MBTA station, but the 450 is a bit wacky; running from Haymarket weekdays, and from Wonderland station on weekends.

By bicycle
Salem finds itself well positioned along several cycling routes. The East Coast Greenway passes through the center of town, making good use of both the Salem Bike Path and Marblehead Rail Trail. The former will run you into the heart of town; while the latter is unpaved, but well traveled. Almost any bike should make short work of these trails. Many riders choose to add the Northern Strand Trail to their cue sheet, and pedal to Salem from Boston. It's a flat between the Peabody Essex Museum and the P-town ferry, most of which is hidden away from cars. Along the way you'll pass miles of protected marshes, historical markers, and oceanfront vistas – it's really quite a remarkable route.

By foot
Salem remains a small town, and as such the tourist attractions here fall within a tightly packed area. A stretch of Essex Street, from Washington St to Hawthorne Blvd, is closed to cars and is a delight to walk. Walking across the city; say from the ferry dock to the Witch House, is barely over a mile. Most folks should be able to cover this distance in about 20-25 minutes. The sites you'll pass along the way are packed with more than enough curios to hold anyone's attention.

The Salem Harborwalk is a short walkway along the South River basin, extending from Derby to Congress streets. It's a nice way to escape the crowds on Derby, and there are even a few picnic tables squeezed in-between the parking lots.

By car
The downtown area is often congested, and becomes all but impassable to cars during October. Do not drive to Salem on Halloween. On street parking is generally good for about 2-4 hours and costs a dollar or two per hour. The city also owns a few garages and off-street lots if you're in need of some longer-term parking. Your best bet is going to be in one of the lots off of Church Street. There's a few surface lots there as well as the Museum Place Garage. Your other option is the MBTA parking lot and the adjacent Crescent lot. The Town of Salem has a great map showing all the gory parking details.

See
If you've only got one day, take a brisk walk through the Peabody Essex Museum, then maybe try to squeeze in a tour of the House of Seven Gables. Spend the rest of the day investigating whatever piques your interest along Derby street in the Maritime National Historic Site.

With extra time, it's easy to tailor an itinerary to your interests. There's plenty more to see at the PEM, architecture buffs will head for the Chestnut Street District, and nature lovers have a variety of options beyond the city center to explore. Parents might try Forest River Park or perhaps some of the kitschy stuff with older children. If you're open to it, the Satanic Temple is a true "only in Salem" experience.

Chestnut Street District
Perhaps the perfect spot for a stroll. The Chestnut Street District calls out to architecture buffs, budding photographers, and anyone seeking a brief respite from the crowds. Many grand mansions line these boulevards, serving to showcase the enormous wealth created by the Old China Trade. Although demolished, Samuel McIntire's home and workshop at 31 Summer Street still anchors this historic area. Roughly bounded by Bridge, Summer, Beckford, and Broad Streets and referred to locally as the McIntire Historic District, it was created in 1973 and contains some 407 notable buildings.



Salem Maritime National Historic Site
Spend an afternoon along Salem's historic nine acre waterfront, where a dozen remarkable buildings span over 600 years of maritime history. The park was established in 1938 as America's first historic site. Plaques throughout the area offer interpretive explanations of the infamous triangular trade (rum, molasses, slaves), privateering during the revolutionary war, and the Old China Trade in the post-war period. Most visitors simply walk down Derby street and explore whatever strikes them. If you're into it, however; begin your visit along the tiny walkway adjacent to the Narbonne House on Essex street. This short path is part of the NPS and takes you past a formal garden and several historic views.



Do
Unless it's calling to you, most items on this list are skippable if pressed for time. Although parents (and children at heart) should make note of the options available at Salem Willows.



Tours
You can also find a couple dozen walking tours in the area. They all have some theme like: ghosts, cuisine, history, architecture, witchcraft, photography, maritime events, and so on. A few are flash in the pan, but many are good quality and passionate about their subject matter. Do a quick search and read reviews before booking your tour. Many are accredited with the city's tourist office, inquire within the main visitors center at 2 New Liberty St.



Eat
Visitors should expect to find a wide range of elevated fare, often rubbing shoulders alongside classic dining experiences. Many tourists descend on the area for the first class seafood options, which are in no short supply. Unsurprisingly, many are found along the looping Wharf Street, fronting the harbor. The highest concentration of restaurants can be found on Washington street from Derby to Essex streets. Lappin Park in particular has a few worthy mid-range options along its borders. As with all tourist zones, local gems await your discovery just a short walk from the center of the action. These eateries remain open throughout the winter months, when usually the only changes you'll see are to the menu.

Sleep
Due to its small size, pretty much everything in Salem is going to be "right in the heart of it all". The high season here runs from Memorial Day until Halloween. Book well in advance to ensure your bunk! Sleeping here on Halloween night? Make your reservations by Thanksgiving. For real. Most accommodations are basically the same price, around $300 once you factor in taxes, fees, and surcharges. Same story for AirBnB and similar services. If you're looking to save money, there is a campsite on Winter Island. If roughing it's not your thing, there are more affordable options along the Route 1 & I-95 corridor in Peabody and Danvers, but then you'll have to deal with driving here.



Stay safe
As in the rest of the country, dial 911 in an emergency for help. Overall, Salem is a very safe city with a crime rate far below the US average. Take the same standard precautions you would anywhere else. Keep valuables out of sight, don't flash wads of cash, take your headphones off, and so on. Many visitors come to Salem to blow off steam, so don't be surprised to see increasingly drunken behavior as the night wears on. Bars tend to close around midnight-1AM. Finally, don't let any black cats cross your path, and if you find a monkey's paw leave it alone!

Go next

 * Nature lovers might enjoy exploring almost 2,000 acres in Topsfield's Ipswich River Wildlife Sanctuary. The views are great by foot, but exploring by paddle can really shape your sense of the land, and afford some truly unique wildlife encounters. The famous Topsfield Fair is also well worth your time if you're visiting in late September.
 * For a taste of the English countryside, look no further than Crane Estate in Ipswich. Featuring the ostentatious mansion Castle Hill, acres of gardens replete with hiking trails, as well as the breathtaking Crane Beach.
 * Popular resort town just to the south, Nahant boasts some fantastic beaches and superlative ocean views.
 * Head north-east to Singing Beach in Manchester-by-the-Sea. If it's dry, the sands may seem to "sing" as you walk along.
 * Further north-east takes you to Rockport, and the end of the line. Stroll Bearskin Neck where densely packed studios, shops, and restaurants wind along a narrow road backed by the Atlantic Ocean. Don't forget to snap a photo of Motif #1 before you leave.
 * Did you enjoy Salem's historical appeal, but were hoping for less tourists? Check out one time whaling capital New Bedford, filled with great museums, history, and Pastel de Nata to boot. About a 1½- to 2-hour drive to the south depending on traffic.