Salalah

Salalah is the capital city of Oman's southern Dhofar region. It is the second largest city in the Sultanate, and has the distinction of being the Sultan Qaboos' birthplace. For most visitors, Salalah is the gateway to Oman’s most southerly governate of Dhofar – a historically independent, and culturally and ecologically unique region.

Understand
As the traditional regional capital, the city’s history stretches back two millennia, when, thanks to its strategic location, it was an important stop on the frankincense and silk trading routes. In the 19th century the region was incorporated into the Sultanate of Muscat and Oman, and Salalah served as the country’s capital from 1932 until the accession of Sultan Qaboos in 1970, who relocated the capital to Muscat. Salalah was the Sultan’s birthplace in 1940, and his mother was a member of a prominent regional Jebbali tribe; to this day the Sultan maintains close ties to the city.

Today Salalah is still known for the cultivation and trade of frankincense (albeit now on a smaller scale), and is famous for its summer khareef (monsoon) and annual Salalah Festival, when visitors flock to the region to escape the blazing hot temperatures elsewhere on the Arabian peninsula. As lodging and eating establishments outside the city are scarce, it serves as a useful and interesting base for travellers wanting to explore the wider area at any time of year.

Read

 * Maria Dekeersmaeker, The DNA of Salalah, Dhofar: A Tourist Guide. Written by a Belgian journalist based in Salalah, this unusual book is a treasure trove of facts and history, organized thematically.

Climate
Most visitors come to Salalah during July and August to enjoy the annual khareef, when the nearby wadis are full of water. Occasionally streets flood, and ocean currents are too strong for swimming or diving. The crowds leave in September along with the rains, but the vegetation is still green, and hotel prices have started to come down.

Diving is only possible during the dry season, from October to the end of May, and this is also the optimal time for bird watching. May and especially June are the hottest months of the year, with humidity steadily increasing until the rains bring relief again in late June or early July.

By plane


Beware, the taxi from the airport is 10 or 20 times the normal taxi rate.

By car
Driving to Salalah from Muscat takes roughly 12 hours, and can either be an amazing and memorable experience, or a very uncomfortable one depending on what kind of traveller you are. The first 5 hours are very scenic, as you pass Rusayl, Nizwa and other small towns. However, it's barren desert and oil fields for most of the remainder of the trip, with the only larger settlements along this stretch being Haima and Thumrait just one hour before Salalah.

Travelling at night is usually better than driving in the heat of day (arriving in Salalah at night is a must, as the city lights from the high-altitude entry point are gorgeous). Watch out for renegade dunes on the way. There are several stops along the way for food, drinks, a cigarette break, or nature calls – you should take every opportunity to stop, as there might not be another one for many more kilometres. As of 2019, many petrol stations do not accept credit cards, so you should have cash with you. Lodging on the road is not good; plan your trip so you do not have to sleep on the road.

By bus


Bus transport to/from Muscat is also offered, both with identical fares, by:

By boat
There is at least one operator in Muscat that will charter you to Salalah.

Cruise ships stop regularly at the commercial, west of the city. Shuttle buses transport visitors from the ship to the port entrance, and taxis are also available. Visitors need to bring only their cruise boarding pass and their Tourist Entry Permit.

On foot
It is possible to explore parts of Salalah on foot, as most places of interest are close to each other. During warmer times of year, though, walking may not be the best idea.

By taxi
The usual unmetered Omani taxis operate here. Negotiate the price before getting in. In 2021, a ride within the city was 1 rial. Most of the time, regular taxis were cheaper than the ride-hailing app Otaxi, but the app can be used to estimate a price.

By car
If you hire a car, 2WD cars are adequate for most sights within Salalah itself. Outside of Salalah, however, many places of tourist interest lie off road, and SUVs are recommended particularly during the khareef season because of slippery terrain. Book your car well in advance if you plan to visit during this peak period, as rental agencies often run out of vehicles.

See
The old city is confined to the area called Al Haffa (Hafah), on the seafront.



Talk
Most residents speak some English, but if you know a bit of Arabic and Malayalam then conversation will be much easier.

Buy
Frankincense is the souvenir purchase in Salalah, and only visitors who avoid shopping will not be offered some. Frankincense is available in several different grades differentiated by colour, the lightest considered to be the highest quality and the costliest. Hand-crafted incense burners made of local Dhofari clay are also good purchases. Myrrh is relatively easy to find as well, as are the myriad Omani perfumes on offer throughout the country. You can also buy a khanjar, the traditional Omani dagger.



Eat
If you decide to visit places outside Salalah city (good advice for traveling anywhere in Oman), remember to carry some food packed for emergencies (fruits, fruit juices, sandwiches recommended) as there are few restaurants outside the city. Always carry several bottles of drinking water since you may not find any store on the highways. There is, however, a delightful ocean-side cafe on the way to Mughsayl and the tidal geyser there.

Splurge
The restaurants in the Hilton, Crowne Plaza, and Juweira Boutique hotels offer high-end dining services, with both à la carte and buffet options. For romantic dining, beach pavilions can be reserved at both the Hilton and Juweira Boutique.

Drink
Alcohol for non-Muslim visitors is available at high end hotels like Oasis Club near the port, as well as at the bars in the Crowne Plaza, Hilton, and Juweira Boutique hotels.

For a refreshing drink, stop at any of the many roadside vendors selling fresh coconut. They will lop the top off a green coconut for you for 200-300 baizas.

Sleep
During the annual khareef from July-September the population of Salalah balloons with visitors from elsewhere in Oman and the Persian Gulf, so if you plan to visit during this time it is essential to make reservations well in advance. During other times of year rooms are plentiful and rates are more reasonable.

Connect
Mobile coverage using Oman's providers is close to flawless, but roaming can sometimes be slow. There are several internet cafes around town, but speeds are inconsistent. Prices vary, but are usually cheap. You can also buy a tourist SIM card from any of the two main phone companies.

Stay safe
Salalah is a very safe place. However, the Salalah (Arab) way of driving might need some getting used to for non-Arabs.

Don't go swimming in the sea or permit toddlers/children to wander off at beaches. The sea has very strong ocean currents and the seabed has a steep drop off, making it very unsafe for swimmers, experienced or beginner.

Cope

 * Remember to carry your passport and visa papers with you wherever you go, at least photocopies, as you can expect local police or military patrols to check on you when you least expect them to show up, even if you are within city limits (a routine procedure to check for illegal workers and immigrants).
 * It's advisable for women to bring conservative clothing, especially if travelling outside the city. A general rule is to keep shoulders and knees covered. Western swimwear is acceptable on private hotel beaches, but not on public beaches where one-piece suits, or even t-shirts and swimming shorts, are preferable. Keep a sarong handy.
 * Bring plenty of water and sunblock if travelling outside the city.

East
Taqah coastal city is 35km away on Highway 49, and Mirbat also on the coast is an hour's drive.

West
To the west is Mughsayl with its famous blowholes, and some dramatic coastline (see Itineraries in Dhofar).