Riyadh



Riyadh (الرياض ar-Riyāḍ) is the capital of Saudi Arabia, slightly east of the center of the country in the heart of the Tuwaig escarpment.

Understand
Known by local wags as the Dead Center of the Kingdom, Riyadh is considered the most straight-laced of the Kingdom's big three cities. With many forms of entertainment banned, few sights of interest and a brutal climate, Riyadh is a business-only destination if there ever was one, but it's also the best place in the Kingdom to watch the continuing collision of tribal Wahhabi conservatism grappling with modern technology and Western influences, and things have loosened up slightly under Crown Prince MBS's watch.

History


Until the 16th century, Riyadh was known as "Hajr", an important city of central Arabia dating from at least the 3rd century CE (and probably older). In the Middle Ages, Hajr served as the capital of the province of Al-Yamamah, whose viceroys presided over most of central and eastern Arabia.

With the decline in the fortunes and wealth of central Arabia after the 10th century, the name Al-Yamama gradually disappeared, and Hajr became subsumed under the name "Najd", which had referred only to areas lying further west. The name Hajr also gave way to the name "Ar-Riyadh" (meaning "the gardens"), as the old city broke into several towns and farming estates.

In the early 1900s, Riyadh was a dusty walled town of under 20,000 people surrounded by palm groves, fertile wadis, and a number of small villages. Riyadh (or, rather, the neighboring hamlet of Diriyah) is the ancestral home of the al-Sauds. Driven out by the Rashids in 1891, King Abdulaziz ibn Saud famously raided and recaptured the city in 1902. The city was made the capital of Saudi Arabia when the country was born in 1932, and has grown explosively ever since then. In 2008, the city was estimated to have 5 million inhabitants; as of 2018, its population is 7.7 million people.

Orientation
Riyadh is vast and sprawling. The main roads are King Fahd Rd (طريق الملك فهد tariq al-malek al-Fahd), which runs north to south across the city, and Makkah Rd (aka Khurais Rd), which runs west to east, intersecting at Cairo Square &mdash; which is actually just a cloverleaf interchange.

The modern business districts of Olaya (العليا, pron. Oleyah) and Suleimaniyah, containing most offices and better hotels, are to the north of Makkah Rd. Here Riyadh's two skyscrapers serve as handy orientation points: Faisaliah Tower (the pointy one) is towards the southern end of Olaya, while Kingdom Centre (the bottle opener) is at the northern end. Both are located between King Fahd Rd and the parallel thoroughfare of Olaya Rd, which is Riyadh's main upscale shopping strip.

The historical core of Riyadh is to the south of Makkah Rd. The district of al-Murabba hosts the sprawling grounds of the King Abdul Aziz Historical Park, home to the National Museum and the Murabba Palace, while a kilometer to the south is the dense warren of al-Bathaa, host to the city's cheapest food, lodging and shopping and the hub of the minibus network. Further south yet is Deira, centered on as-Sa'ah Square, which has souqs (traditional markets), the Masmak Fortress, the Governor's offices and, more morbidly, the execution grounds.

Climate
Located in the middle of the country, Riyadh suffers from the worst of Saudi Arabia's climatic extremes. Summer temperatures regularly exceed 50°C, while winter temperatures can fall below zero. It's bone dry throughout the year, and when the wind blows the city is often covered in a haze of sand. However, while summers are blazing hot, they are not humid, which goes some way to alleviate the pain. Summer evenings are generally tolerable and one even encounters the occasional cool breeze, especially on the outskirts of town.

The climate has been shifting in this part of the world as well. Temperatures near 50°C are usually only reached end of July and in August. In 2009, the temperature in Riyadh hit 48°C mid-June. Especially if you wear a business suit, it is imperative to stay out of the sun.

Get in
Riyadh is a long way from anywhere, so odds are fairly high you'll be arriving by plane.

By plane


Aside from Saudia, direct connections from outside the Gulf and South Asia are surprisingly limited, but options include Lufthansa from Frankfurt, British Airways from London-Heathrow, Air France from Paris, Turkish Airlines from Istanbul IST and Cathay Pacific from Hong Kong. The most internationally popular route, though, is via Dubai, from where there are at least half a dozen flights daily. Domestically, Riyadh is one of the main hubs and there are flights to every corner of the Kingdom, including near-hourly departures to Jeddah. Unlike Jeddah, immigration and customs clearance at Riyadh is usually fairly straightforward (unless the computer system is down). Standing in the wrong line for immigration may work out fine for you, or you may be catapulted back to the end of a different line when you hit the front position (making all that waiting worthless). The row for "Exit/Entry Visas" is only for resident expats that have left the country temporarily, to visit family for example.

You'll probably be accosted by touts as you soon as you exit customs, but just ignore them and head to the taxi ranks outside or use taxi hailing apps like Uber and Careem (the Middle Eastern option). While the official taxis are supposed to use a zone-based flat fare system, with most of central Riyadh in the SR45 or 55 zones, the list of zones is available only in Arabic. A metered fare to the city should cost SR70-90, but more often than not the driver will just ask for a flat fare, which may even work out a little cheaper. If you've let yourself be scored by one of the private drivers (that are not only inside the terminal building but also outside), make sure the price you agreed on is truly agreed on, or your driver may tell you that he didn't agree to SR80 but rather 180, meaning you'll settle on 120. The better bet is taking an official taxi! A good alternative - if offered - is to take a hotel limousine. These are often not much more expensive than the taxi trip, but mostly high-quality, comfortable cars rather than run-down, creaky old clunkers with worn-through seats.

The trip to the city takes about 30 minutes in good traffic. Don't be irritated if the taxi is stopped at a control point by police (at which time the driver will put on his seatbelt and his mobile onto handsfree, two actions that are usually reversed as soon as the control point is passed).

When checking in, one airport quirk bears noting: you have to pass your bags through an X-ray before checking in, and after getting your boarding pass, you have to go right through the same security gate in reverse to find immigration and departures. Don't go up the staircase &mdash; it's a dead end leading only to the viewing lounge.

By train
Rail traffic to Riyadh is increasing, with the city being the center of a new high speed network that's under construction. The classic line runs from the coastal city of Dammam, near the border with Bahrain, via Al-Hofuf and Al-Hasa. There are five trains per day with a journey time of 3½ hours for the full length. Additionally, there is at least one train per day from Ha'il and Buraydah on the new North-South line, taking 2½ hours. In the future trains will run from Al-Qurrayat near the border with Jordan.

There are two stations: trains from Damman arrive at the older (محطة قطار الرياض) is located south of the city centre, along Omar Ibn Al Khattab Road. The brand-new is along Ath Thumamah Road in the northern parts of the city. For both stations, it's recommended to show up at least 30 minutes early, as you'll need to pass through security before boarding.

Two Saudi railway companies were merged in 2021, with the new one called Saudi Arabia Railways.

By car
The main east-west road through Riyadh is Highway 40 from Dammam and the causeway from Bahrain to Khobar with other road links mainly leading to the North of the Kingdom.

Most roads are tarmacked, albeit to varying levels of repair. Driving standards are slightly more sensible than those of the city centers, but caution is still needed. Some highways see heavy usage from lorries and petrol tankers, often in convoy.

Get around
Riyadh is very much a car-oriented city, and public transportation in Riyadh is badly underdeveloped. There are no street addresses as such in Riyadh, as mail is delivered to post office boxes, so getting around requires knowing landmarks near the place where you want to go. The only reliable means of transport in Riyadh is a car: you would either depend on cabs or you would have to rent your own car. Generally prices are lower in Riyadh than most other big cities in the world.

If you are travelling by your own car then it is wise to carry a GPS system or better yet use Google Maps as it seems to be the most updated of the navigation systems with the different points of interest. Plan your route before the start of the journey. Although many streets, roads and landmarks are marked in both Arabic & English yet there are a few important major streets, roads and exits that are still marked in Arabic only.

It is important to carry your valid identification (i.e. passport, national ID, or Iqama) at all times. You may experience difficulties obtaining accommodation and may experience bigger problems if you are stopped at any of the city's check points (these can be both permanent or temporary). Not being able to show valid identification when asked by the police may land you in jail. Therefore, it is also advisable to keep details of your sponsor on hand in case you require assistance while out and about.

By taxi
Most visitors rely on white taxis, which are abundant in the city centre but can be harder to find on the outskirts or at night. The ride-hailing apps in Riyadh are Uber and Careem. For taxis, drivers will usually use the meter without asking if you do not propose a fixed price, and with a starting fare of SR5 and the meter ticking up SR1.60/km after the first kilometer, most metered trips within the city cost under SR30. However, locals usually prefer to negotiate fares in advance, and this can often be cheaper than using the meter: short hops start at SR10, a longer journey might be SR15.

Single women are legally allowed to take registered public taxis, but many female visitors and expats choose not to, opting for transport provided by a hotel, their company or compound instead.

The level of English spoken varies from decent (especially Indian and Pakistani drivers) to non-existent, so try to find out the name of your destination in Arabic before you head off. Solo male travelers are expected to hop into the front seat, next to the driver, while women must sit in the back.

Drivers are usually familiar with major local landmarks, but you're expected to know your way to your destination from there. Bring a map and the phone number of someone at your destination to call for directions.

By bus
Flat-fare minibuses (SR3) rumble the streets of Riyadh, but these are mostly used by laborers. They are quite difficult for the casual visitor to use: there are no posted stops, and routes are usually written only in Arabic. Most routes converge on al-Bathaa, and the adventurous visitor can try his luck on route 9, which runs from al-Bathaa up Olaya Road.

January 2024: most stops on route 9 are now marked and sheltered with air conditioning. English annoucements are available on vehicles. Tickets can be purchased at kiosks at bus stands. Contactless payment onboard is also available.

By car
The best option for traveling in Riyadh is your own car, ideally driven by somebody else used to the conditions, but many expats take the plunge and drive themselves. The traffic in Riyadh is, by Saudi standards, fairly sane: ubiquitous raised bumps on lane markers keep cars traveling more or less in a straight line, and radar-equipped cops on the major highways zap the craziest of speeders. Still, the local driving style can charitably be described as "aggressive", with swerving from the leftmost lane to the exit ramp on a four-lane highway being par for course, and central Riyadh jams up almost daily during rush hour.

On foot
The modern, northern half of Riyadh is very pedestrian-hostile, with 8-lane roads filled with speeding SUVs making crossing the road a dangerous exercise. Pedestrian bridges and proper sidewalk are very few and far between, even if there has been a push from the local government to improve the situation. There are plenty of reckless drivers and caution is needed even at stoplights. Add in the fearsome summer heat, and it's little surprise that there aren't too many people walking about. But if you're the fearless type, walking can be a great way of seeing the city. Make sure to stay in the shade, be careful along stretches without a pedestrian walkway.

One exception to the car dominance is al-Bathaa, most of the alleys in this neighborhood are too narrow or congested for cars and walking is the only way of getting around.

By bicycle
Cycling is uncommon in Riyadh, but there is a small network of protected cycle paths.

See


Sightseeing in Riyadh is a frustrating exercise in careful timing: not only are most sites closed on weekends (F-Sa) and during prayer hours, but visiting hours are segregated between men and families, though some flexibility might be provided for western nationals. The one saving grace is that many sites stay open until 9PM.

Wadi Hanifa
A dry and sharply defined riverbed (wadi) begins about 40 km north of Riyadh and runs in a north-south direction for over 120 km, cutting through the western edge of the city, known as Wadi Hanifah. Wadi Hanifah was once the lifeblood of the Riyadh area, rich in groundwater, filled with palm groves and farms and dotted with a string of small towns and villages throughout history. The Wadi has been used as a large dumping ground for wastewater, sewage, and industrial waste, but an ambitious rehabilitation project has been completed. An 80 km stretch running through western Riyadh is now essentially an 80-km desert park, though many parts of the Wadi floor are occupied by private estates and farms with high walls. The Wadi has several entry points, but perhaps the easiest route is by taking King Abdullah Road west past the university and into the town of Arqah. Eventually, you will reach a large round-about. Take the exit heading downwards into the Wadi. Follow the road even as it winds and weaves its way through the Wadi (do not be tempted to turn onto any side streets). Eventually, you will reach a police checkpoint, to the left of which is an entry point to the Wadi floor. A narrow paved road runs along the Wadi floor. Heading southwards, you will eventually find designated picnic and barbecue spots facing the Wadi's cliff-like walls.

While dry for most of the year, wadis can flood very quickly with a moderate amount of rain. Never approach a wadi during the rain or even its immediate aftermath. Even looking over the edge of a wadi can be dangerous as the Wadi's edges can break off during the rain. Every year, several deaths are reported from flash floods all across Saudi Arabia.

Al-Dir'iyyah
Located on a hill overlooking Wadi Hanifa, Al-Dir'iyyah, on the northwestern outskirts of Riyadh, is the ancestral home of the Saudi royal family and served as the Saudi capital until 1818. The ruins of the old city are being restored and renovated. Opened as of December 2022.

Do
Although few Saudis play golf, there are surprisingly good golf courses around. The best one is the 18-holes course in a good 30 minutes drive west of Riyadh. Nice layout with green and inviting grass, and the last 9 holes are even floodlit. They offer tennis, swimming and horse-back riding as well. There's also a quite nice 9-holes short range course connected to the Hotel Intercontinental almost in the dead centre of the city. Nice but short - also floodlit. If you travel about 20 minutes to the north-east you will find a not so nice desert course with browns instead of greens (the putting area consist of sand/oil mixture instead of grass).

Head west down the Makkah Road for 30 minutes, and you'll reach the edge of the Tuwaig Escarpment. As you make the 200-m sharp drop from the Tuwaig escarpment to Najd-proper, you will get a good feel of the desert with dunes and buttresses.

Heading northeast of the airport to the Thumama sand dunes, one can engage in "dune bashing" in 4x4 SUVs or in rented ATVs.


 * Prince Mohammed bin Salman Stadium and Riyadh Stadium are two new venues under construction.
 * Prince Mohammed bin Salman Stadium and Riyadh Stadium are two new venues under construction.
 * Prince Mohammed bin Salman Stadium and Riyadh Stadium are two new venues under construction.
 * Prince Mohammed bin Salman Stadium and Riyadh Stadium are two new venues under construction.

Since 2018, you can enjoy one of several newly opened cinema complexes that show the latest Western, Arabic, and Indian movies, the movies shown are censored though. (Check the VOX Cinema website for detailed information of movie listings and locations.)

Red Sands Desert Tour Several tour companies offer desert trips, mostly to Ad-Dahna desert 1 hour east of Riyadh near the road towards Dammam. Tours usually run from 2pm to 11pm and include drinks, food and activities such as volleyball, sand boarding, etc. (250 SAR) Some tours let you camp in the desert. Reliable operator include Yalla Hike, HikeMania and Riyadh Hiking.

Shopping malls
Riyadh's main roads are nothing but one shopping mall after another.



Eat
Eating out is one of the few pleasures of Riyadh &mdash; there's a pretty good selection of restaurants for various cuisines, ranging from cheap and hearty to fancy and expensive.

Budget
Your best bet for cheap, filling meals are Riyadh's countless small Pakistani/Indian restaurants, which can fill you up with curry and rice for about SR11.

Fast food places abound in Riyadh's shopping malls, with a full meal with drink averaging around SR20. If you want something other than the usual hamburgers and kebabs, Pizza Hut offers a pretty good salad buffet.



Drink
With alcohol and nightclubs banned, Riyadh's nightlife is infamously nonexistent. Shisha (water pipe) cafes, long banned, were finally allowed back within city limits from 2019 -- ask a local (or any taxi driver) for his favorite. Coffeeshops can also be found in abundance throughout the city, particularly on Tahlia St (officially Prince Mohammed Bin Abdul Aziz St) in Olaya.

For the foreign workers - the expats - the social life can be quite (well, comparatively) rich however. There are always a good party going on in the embassy area or in one of the compounds. And at these private parties there's always a chance to find some illegal booze.

In case you run into it, especially within expat communities, Saudi champagne refers to a non-alcoholic drink, typically a mix of Sprite and apple cider.



Budget
Most of Riyadh's budget accommodation is in al-Batha. It is advised that you should check the room condition and proper functioning of all equipment (e.g. TAP/FLUSH/TV/Power Outlets etc.)in budget hotel prior to check in.

Splurge


At the upper end, hotel prices in Riyadh have increased rapidly in the past few years and are now almost as expensive as Dubai. Expect to pay north of SR600.



Connect
Internet cafes can be found in the computer souq in Olaya. Riyadh is also pushing forward with its "Smart City" program, which will attempt to provide wireless access throughout the city in the major coffeeshops and hotels, particularly on Tahlia St in the downtown area.

Pretty much every place offers free Wifi. Be aware that logging in with international phone numbers will not work (Nov 2022) in most places.

Having a smart phone with internet access is essential as many services are available digital only (e.g. tickets sales).

Stay safe
Riyadh is more conservative than Jeddah or the Eastern Province. Women mostly cover themselves with an abaya (available in shops everywhere in Riyadh) but covering the faces become less common. Read, understand and follow the guidelines in the Saudi Arabia article to stay out of trouble.

In 2002-2004, Riyadh was the site of numerous terrorist attacks on Westerners, including shootings, car bombings and kidnappings, culminating in the May 12, 2003 compound bombings that killed 35 and injured over 160. In response, Saudi security forces cracked down brutally, and there have been no terrorist attacks in Riyadh since 2004. Security remains very tight though, particularly at housing compounds for foreigners, and police and army units, often heavily armed, are a common sight in the city.

Although Riyadh is sometimes alleged to have one of the lowest crime rates in the world, standard precautions should be taken. The most significant danger to you is driving. Most drivers originate from areas in developing countries and the Middle East which lack traffic laws, driving schools, or even roads for that matter. It's a 'driving culture' where seat belts, mirrors, lane stripes, turn signals and speed limits are ignored. A four-lane highway can easily transform into a seven-lane 'racetrack'. Don't be shy with your horn. Also, whatever you do, do not flip someone the finger/bird as it is taken very differently in Saudi Arabia than in Western countries, and some drivers will kill you in retaliation.

Respect
Riyadh can be a challenging destination to live and work in. Some tips for easier adaptation:
 * Drive yourself, or at least arrange a regular cabbie. This is easier, safer and quite possibly cheaper than relying on taxis for transport.
 * Socializing with the family-oriented Saudis is virtually impossible, so get in touch with the local expat community if you want to have any semblance of a social life. A network of people from different nationalities will allow you better knowledge of (and access to) embassies and private parties.
 * Try to get out of Riyadh on the weekends for a change of venue. Though regulations for single males to enter shopping malls have been loosened, one quickly runs out of options without pre-planning private events.
 * Respect Islam and abide by the country's strict Islamic laws. Although rare, there are cases of Westerners arrested, deported and receiving corporal punishment for showing signs of disrespect. Expect no leniency if you are Muslim, South Asian or Southeast Asian. Riyadh is one of the strictest cities in Saudi Arabia.

Embassies

 * 🇵🇰 Pakistan
 * 🇪🇬 Egypt
 * 🇫🇮 Finland
 * 🇬🇷 Greece
 * 🇮🇩 Indonesia
 * 🇷🇴 Romania
 * 🇺🇸 United States
 * 🇫🇷 France

Go next
If your budget stretches to flights, Saudi Arabia is your oyster, with the entire country within a 1½-hour radius of Riyadh.


 * Jeddah &mdash; the largest port on the Red Sea and the gateway to Mecca and Medina, but with good scuba diving too
 * Bahrain &mdash; if you have a car, the 4-hour drive through the desert to the comparatively liberal state of Bahrain is not too bad
 * Dubai &mdash; The new luxurious party city of the Middle East. If you have a car, it will be a 10-hour drive east through the desert. For cheap flights, approximately 1½ hours, take a low-cost airline into Sharjah.

If you are willing to spend a bit more, there are great cultural and nightlife locations within a 3-hour flight (and USD300) radius.


 * Beirut &mdash; Saudi Arabian Airlines & Middle Eastern Airlines provide excellent connections multiple times a day. If you are for drinking on a plane, MEA will be your choice, as Saudia does not serve alcohol on any of its flights.
 * Muscat &mdash; This Arabian treasure provides an excellent home base for exploring Oman and its natural and cultural heritage with great opportunities for experienced and novice scuba divers alike.