Rissani

Rissani is a small oasis town in Morocco that lies near the northwest edge of the Sahara desert.

Understand
Rissani is the closest city with significant population to the Erg Chebbi near Merzouga.

Due to its location at the crossroads between north and south gave it importance in historic times.

By bus
CTM serves Rissani from Fez for 165 dirham, leaving 21:30 and arriving at 07:00 in Rissani. The same bus or a similar connection starts in Meknes at 22:45 and arrives in Rissani at around 7:30, 150 dirham.

From Alnif there are 1-2 buses a day for 20 dirham, 1½ hr.

By grand taxi
A grand taxi from Merzouga is 12-15 dirham, and from Alnif 25 dirham.

Get around
On foot mostly.

See

 * A lot of ksars (castle or fortified village).

Do

 * Walk
 * Rent a bicylce
 * Go to a hammam (public bath)

Buy

 * The Rissani souvenir is a plate made from palm tree paper by women in old ksar. This work allows them buy their own things (such as clothes or gold). You can find in the market for a cheap price (5 dirham).
 * You can buy fossils stone—ammonite orthoceras and small decoration.

Eat

 * Madfouna or "Berber pizza". A traditional stuffed berber flat bread. It would be stuffed with meat, onion, herbs, spices.

Drink
Better to drink mineral water: Sidi ali, Sid hrazem, or Ciel. The maximum​ price of a bottle is 5 or 6 dirham.

A 1-liter bottle of Ciel still water costs 5 dirham. Don't pay more!

Sleep

 * Hotel Merzouga (close to the souk) for 150 dirham per night/double room. Clean, hot shower, friendly. Small garden in the backside, where you can relax from the day.

Stay safe
Like many small towns in this region, a major source of income is tourism. Many tourists come to Rissani to spend a night or more in the pre-Saharan Desert.

You will have to contend with some fairly aggressive touts that pounce upon tourists the moment the bus stops. This is particularly noticeable when arriving by CTM because you are dropped off in the medina rather than the bus station.

If you don't want to be hassled from the moment you arrive, find a reputable tour operator prior to arriving in Rissani. Explain to them exactly when you will be arriving and try to arrange for them to meet you at the bus. This will hopefully alleviate much of the hassle.

However if you would prefer to do things the old-fashioned way (and admittedly more exciting and adventurous), just show up. You can usually rid yourself of the touts by issuing a polite (but firm) "La, shokran" to them. Remember that no one is going to harm you, so keep smiling and stay relaxed. And enjoy your amazing trip into the Sahara!

Go next
The N12 (National road no. 12) starts at Rissani and end in Sidi Ifni, giving a view of the Anti-Atlas mountain range and arid plains with villages where there is water.


 * Alnif – Minibus (25 dirham) from outside the bus station. From there local transport—a seat in a 7-seat taxi costs 25 dirham to Tazzarine. From there another 50 dirham to Zagora.
 * Merzouga – To the south, it provides desert and dunes.