Rishikesh

Rishikesh is a small town in the northern state of Uttarakhand, India. Scenically located where the Ganges River comes down from the Himalayas, Rishikesh catapulted to Western fame when the Beatles dropped by for a visit to Maharishi Mahesh Yogi's ashram. The town is still known as the World Capital of Yoga.

Understand


Along with nearby Dehradun and Haridwar, Rishikesh is a useful gateway to the Uttarakhand Himalayas. The Northern Char Dham Yatra (Four Shrines Sacred Journey) ideally begins from Rishikesh.

The nearby Shivpuri, 12 km away, is the centre for many adventure sports, not to be confused with its namesake Shivpuri.

By bus


From Delhi, Rishikesh is about 230 km away and is well connected with buses. A bus journey may take about 5–7 hr (depending on the traffic) and costs you ₹130–350. An AC bus will cost ₹200–500. The right time to visit would be February, March, August-October. In July there is a festival called Savan where thousands of people flock to Rishikesh. Major roads are blocked and hotels are crowded. It is better to avoid travelling to Rishikesh during that time.

From Dehradun ISBT, a bus to Rishikesh costs ₹95 (2023) and takes around 1¼ hr.

Getting away:

Several travel agencies scattered around Swarg Ashram and Lakshman Jhula can book luxury buses to common destinations like Delhi (₹250-₹500), Jaipur, Pushkar and Varanasi.

Public and private buses from Rishikesh to other destinations in Uttarakhand and on the plains leave from the main bus station on the south side of Chandrabhaga bridge.

Buses to northwest destinations including Devprayag, Srinagar and Kedarnath may pass through Ram Jhula and Laxman Jhula, however you will be more likely to get a seat at the bus station in Rishikesh town.

By train


There are many trains from Delhi to Haridwar. Some of the better are: Shatabadi Express, Jan Shatabdi, AC Special Express, Mussoorie Express. A quiet branch line connects Haridwar to Rishikesh, but there are only about three slow trains daily. Normally, it is better to take the train to Haridwar and continue by bus (45 min, ₹20), by taxi (30 min, ₹650) or by shared auto-rickshaw (40 min, ₹25). However, travelling by train is recommended in peak seasons or during a 'mela' (fair) when bus routes are diverted in Haridwar whereas trains often run empty and the fares are low (just ₹4 for a passenger train service). You can take share rickshaws (vehicle brand name Vikram) towards Laxman Jhula (₹15) from Rishikesh station. You will have to cross Ram Jhula to reach Swargashram on the other side of the Ganges.

Passenger trains from Haridwar to Rishikesh (approximate travel time 1 hr):
 * Haridwar–Rishikesh 05:20
 * Haridwar–Rishikesh 10:30
 * Haridwar–Rishikesh 17:25

Getting away:

Travel agents in Swarg Ashram and Lakshman Jhula can book train tickets for onward journeys; much easier than going to Rishikesh railway station to buy a ticket. Some may sell you a ticket from Raiwala, a small stop between Rishikesh and Haridwar, but this station, while closer, is tiny and trains only stop for a few seconds—better to board at Haridwar.

Ordinary / Passenger Trains from Rishikesh:
 * Rishikesh–Delhi 07:00
 * Rishikesh–Haridwar 08:55 ₹10
 * Rishikesh–Bandikui 12:20
 * Rishikesh–Haridwar 15:20 ₹10
 * Rishikesh–Haridwar 19:30 ₹10

Express:
 * Rishikesh–Jammutawi 16:15

By plane
Rishikesh is about 15 km from Dehradun's Jolly Grant Airport, which offers flights from Delhi and other Indian cities.

Delhi airport to Rishikesh by taxi is a 6–7-hr journey. Prices vary from US$85 for an air-conditioned compact car to US$125 for an air-conditioned SUV (but rates are much higher if you get these services from prepaid taxi booths at the airport).

By taxi
Shared taxis to destinations within Uttarakhand leave from Natraj Chowk, 1 km from the Rishikesh bus station.

Get around
The town's centre, where the bus and train stations are, is of little interest to most travellers.

Northeast are three bridges spanning the Ganges, south to north:, and  (closed as of summer 2023).

The main hubs of activity and interest are on the eastern bank of the Ganges (the center of multiple ashrams) and  about 5 km northeast of Rishikesh (the backpacker hotspot with dirt-cheap accommodation).

On foot
Swargashram is pretty much pedestrian only, but it's compact and walkable (as is the whole of the town).

To visit eastern bank of Ganges, you have to walk across Janki Setu or Ram Jhula, or take ferry from Ram Jhula.

By rickshaw
Auto-rickshaws (vikrams) are useful from the bus/train stations to get around:
 * Janki Seti or southern Rishikesh – ₹10.
 * Tapovan – ₹20 (2023), maybe ₹25 from the bus terminal

By taxi
Near the bank of Ganges, share jeeps and taxis are available to drop visitors at Neelkantha temple and waterfall. Overall, it’s more than 16 km run by road to go from one side of river to another.

See




Do

 * Take a holy dip in the Ganges, with reputed healing powers.
 * Chota Char Dham – It starts in summer and continues till the end of October. The Chota Char Dham is a Hindu pilgrimage route taking in four holy sites within Uttarakhand: Badrinath, Kedarnath, Gangotri (all sources of tributaries of the River Ganga) and Yamunotri (source of the Yamuna River).
 * Check into an ashram to study yoga, meditation and Hindu philosophy; see Yoga in Rishikesh.
 * Trekking to Hemkunt (Hemkund, 4,150 m) – Officially this is a Sikh pilgrim journey, but if you are fed up with whole enlightenment circus or the overly commercialised tourism spectacle in town, this could be a great combination of inexpensive stays and great hikes.
 * Shivpuri — one of the most visited places around Rishikesh, 12 km away. Named after Shiva. It is a spiritual village which is also the hub for adventure sports. One can do many adventure activities in Shivpuri like river rafting, camping, ziplining and trekking.

Yoga
Rishikesh considers itself to be the yoga capital of the world. It's on offer everywhere, and most styles are represented. Yoga teacher training is offered at several places. See Yoga in Rishikesh for listings.

Astrology, Ayurveda, healing, etc.
Everyone needs healing.

Outdoor activities
There are numerous travel agencies offering all kinds of trips and thrill adventures. It's probably just agencies that contact the tour organisiers, so ask around for the best price, it will be the same tour anyhow.


 * Bungee jump – You can try bungee jump at Jumpin Heights, a jump from 83 m just above a natural river and have the time of your life—₹3,700. Similarly, there is Fox Flying available—₹2,000.
 * Camping – Camping in Rishikesh on the Ganga beach offer an environment to wake up with the birds and swim in the fresh water of the river Ganges. Camping in Rishikesh is a very popular activity, don't ask why. The nearest camp is just across Goa Beach adjacent to Laxman Jhula.
 * Cliff jumping – You are supposed to jump into cold water from a cliff! Of course you are wearing a life jacket and a helmet but still jumping from so high into the Ganges, which is murky so the bottom can't be seen, unlike jumping into a swimming pool where one can see the bottom and the water is static.
 * Hiking – There are a lot of soft hikes in this region and good birdwatching. But this altitude is barely where you want to do any larger hiking trips, better try Hemkunt above.
 * Rappelling – Climbing down with a rope is called rappelling. The group is taken to a spot where there is a cliff drop, experts with proper equipment who set up the gear first and then, one by one, everyone comes down. It's all about trusting your gear and following the instructions and then it's a lot of fun.
 * Reverse Bungee Jumping – Feel the adrenaline rush as you bound up to 180 feet and back down in the adventure of reverse bungee jump in Rishikesh—₹1,500.
 * Rock climbing – This is also included at some of the camps but not everyone can do it as it requires a lot of strength and skill. The group is taken to a cliff side and with proper safety gear everyone is given a chance to climb the cliff side.
 * White water rafting – Rishikesh is very popular for its rafting on the River Ganga (Ganges). The area offers rapids of Grade-I to V. September–November and March-May are ideal for rafting. The rafting goes for several kilometres, and the path is interspersed with rapids, ranging from Level 1 to Level 5, in order of difficulty. At the end of the trip, you have the option of jumping some 20 feet from a ledge into the water. The package usually includes an overnight camp on the banks of the river, with a brilliant and moderate trek among the hills in the morning. If one has time, courses in rafting are also offered.

Buy
As with most holy cities come tourist destinations there's a plethora of religious paraphernalia, cheap clothing aimed at foreigners, incense, bronze Shiva statues, etc. Unlike many other similar towns in India prices here are usually reasonable and you won't have to haggle hard for a good price.

Eat
Non-vegetarian food has been banned in the city for many years. North and south Indian food is widely available, and there's no shortage of multi-cuisine backpacker cafes, especially in Laxman Jhula. What excites many foreigners are the delicious Ayurvedic and health food restaurants, perfect for an after-yoga meal. Many of the main lanes are lined with wooden push carts selling in-season fruit, veggies, popcorn, nuts, warm cookies and lots else, and you'll usually be quoted a fair price. The papayas here are particularly delicious. Try the famous Chotiwali Special/Janata or Delux Thali. It used to be an unlimited affair but now due to practical constraints the quantity is limited and extra helpings are charged. There are several eateries offering jalebis, imartis, samosas, and other Indian snacks. If you haven't heard of these before, you should definitely try them.


 * Chotiwala in Swarg Ashram claims to be the original, and serves up great Indian food including 5 different thalis. Meals starts from ₹100.
 * Ganga Ayurvedic Food Place, (out beyond most of the ashrams, just past VED Niketan Ashram). Delicious food, lovingly prepared. One of the cleaner kitchens around; don't be afraid of the good salads. Also great for breakfast.
 * Little Italy, Swarg Ashram, (in the Green Hotel). Good pasta, pizza, etc. Mains from ₹30.
 * Mukti's Health Food, (a few hundred metres west of Shivanand Jhula bridge, overlooking the taxi stand/parking lot). A tiny place in a strange location, but very popular and excellent food at very reasonable prices. Homemade green pasta, Indonesian gado-gado, and homemade frozen yogurt, apple pie or chocolate cake for dessert.
 * The Office. Has sweet samosas filled with mango, apple, banana and/or chocolate as well as tasty masala chai.
 * Shiva-resort, a nice place away from the bustling market of Ram-Jhula towards Neelkanth road in Jonk village. A great place to have organic food and you also can stay there in a silent and pleasant place.
 * The Welcome Center, (about a 10-15 minute walk towards Haridwar from the Shivanand Jhula bridge). Hidden down off the road (but signposted), this is a little oasis of calm from the busy street. Great Ayurvedic food and teas. They also offer cooking classes, several types of yoga, etc. and sell natural incense, neti pots, yoga mats and the like. If you like the atmosphere, enquire about staying here as well.
 * Mukti's Health Food, (a few hundred metres west of Shivanand Jhula bridge, overlooking the taxi stand/parking lot). A tiny place in a strange location, but very popular and excellent food at very reasonable prices. Homemade green pasta, Indonesian gado-gado, and homemade frozen yogurt, apple pie or chocolate cake for dessert.
 * The Office. Has sweet samosas filled with mango, apple, banana and/or chocolate as well as tasty masala chai.
 * Shiva-resort, a nice place away from the bustling market of Ram-Jhula towards Neelkanth road in Jonk village. A great place to have organic food and you also can stay there in a silent and pleasant place.
 * The Welcome Center, (about a 10-15 minute walk towards Haridwar from the Shivanand Jhula bridge). Hidden down off the road (but signposted), this is a little oasis of calm from the busy street. Great Ayurvedic food and teas. They also offer cooking classes, several types of yoga, etc. and sell natural incense, neti pots, yoga mats and the like. If you like the atmosphere, enquire about staying here as well.
 * Shiva-resort, a nice place away from the bustling market of Ram-Jhula towards Neelkanth road in Jonk village. A great place to have organic food and you also can stay there in a silent and pleasant place.
 * The Welcome Center, (about a 10-15 minute walk towards Haridwar from the Shivanand Jhula bridge). Hidden down off the road (but signposted), this is a little oasis of calm from the busy street. Great Ayurvedic food and teas. They also offer cooking classes, several types of yoga, etc. and sell natural incense, neti pots, yoga mats and the like. If you like the atmosphere, enquire about staying here as well.

Drink
Sitting around in dhabas and cafes is nearly mandatory here. In addition to the old standards like masala chai and lassis you can find a nice range of Ayurvedic teas. Some restaurants make up their own tonics to treat anything that may be ailing you.

There are two Italian-style/Seattle-style cafés focusing on coffee.


 * Alcohol is banned and inappropriate, as Rishikesh is a holy city, although you can buy beer (8% alc) with your meal in one of the finer hotels.


 * Tripti Restaurant is on main the Badrinath highway and is a good place to visit. It has a beautiful view and an airy restaurant area to sit and relax. The food is healthy and fresh and tasty. It is a common place for foreigners and visitors to have a calm and quite break. Sitting on the terrace is another thing that you don't want to miss at "Tripti"

Sleep
Rishikesh is filled almost entirely with budget hotels, with a few mid-range thrown in for good measure. Tapovan is popular with backpackers and has the cheapest accommodation, while Swargashram is where the majority of the ashrams are, and is a nice alternative. There is also a handful of accommodation options available in High Bank.

It's wise to book ahead in the peak tourist season, and during the Kumbh Mela in neighboring Haridwar.

Budget
Hotels in this range start at price as low as ₹100.



Many ashrams also offer cheap lodging.



Mid-range
There are two Government Tourist Lodges. Their rates range from ₹600 to ₹2000.
 * Bharat Bhumi in the town.
 * Sisham Jhari on the banks of the Ganges.



Stay safe
A holy city it may be, but Rishikesh draws more than its fair share of criminals and con men. Don't walk around alone at night and beware of the motives of sadhus offering one-on-one tutoring. There is also a gem stone hoax going on in at least one gem store: They ask you to bring the stones to your own country to a "buyer" who doesn't exist. In general, try not getting involved with any local guide who is offering you services. They are mostly con men and goons.

Watch where you step: After sundown it is pitch dark, so bring a light.

Watch out for the sometimes brash food stealing monkeys too. They mostly "operate" on and around the foot bridges, and if you look them in the eyes they become aggressive, but rarely/never attack unless you carry food. Sadhus and police officers carry sticks to keep monkeys and cows/oxen at a distance. The brown monkeys are aggressive; the grey big languors are nicer. The greys sometimes steal food from tourists (not on the bridges), but mostly because their size scares the tourist. They don't bite you to get food.

Be alert if an ox is on your path: They are mostly harmless, but after dark they are sometimes nervous. Especially on the narrow foot bridges, you should try to read their body language before a close encounter.

Go next
Ordered by distance:
 * Rajaji National Park — 20 minutes' drive. Founded in 1983, it was created by integrating three different sanctuaries: Motichur Sanctuary, Chilla Sanctuary and Rajaji Sanctuary. The park is nicely placed in green hills and foothills of the Shivalik mountain ranges.
 * Haridwar — a Hindu pilgrimage site at the Ganges River,
 * Dhanaulti — 84 km away, offering an atmosphere of peace and tranquillity. If you want to get away from the city crowd then just head towards the Dhanaulti.
 * Mussoorie — 77 km away, one of the most visited hill stations in India, surrounded by green hills and rich in flora and fauna.

The following three seem to be very far away, but they are into the mountains and Rishikesh is one of the few cities to reach them from:
 * Yamunotri — 215 km away with Yamunotri temple, the major tourist attraction, at 4,421 m.
 * Kedarnath — 240 km away, it's one of the four Char Dham Yatra Hindu pilgrim centers, at 3,400 m, which you need to hike at least 16 km to.
 * Govindghat — 224 km away, "beyond" Kedarnath. It's the gateway to the Hemkunt pilgrimage site and the Valley of Flowers.