Pyongyang

Pyongyang (Korean: 평양, P'yŏngyang) is the capital city of North Korea, with about 2,750,000 inhabitants. It is on the Taedong River in the southwest of the country and is known as the Capital of the Revolution.

Understand
Pyongyang is the capital city of North Korea, and also a "showcase city" where people have a markedly higher standard of living than elsewhere in the country. Many of the nation's tourist attractions can be found here and will likely form part of most travel itineraries to North Korea.

Largely destroyed during the Korean War in 1952, it was rebuilt to be a model city to boost morale in North Korea. The Russian-style architecture features wide boulevards and lots of green space and decoration. The streets are laid out in an orderly grid, and the city is divided into self-sufficient urban neighborhoods all with similar amenities nearby. As movement is restricted in the city, it stands out among large Asian cities for being spacious, uncrowded, and quiet.

History
Pyongyang has been an important city in the region for millennia. In the 300s and 400s, it was the capital first of Nanglang and then of the Goguryeo kingdom. Historically an important commercial center, in the 16th through 19th centuries it became the center of Christian missionary work in Asia.

When Korea was split after the end of World War II, the Soviet Army entered Pyongyang, and it became the temporary capital, which was later made official with the founding of North Korea. During the Korean War, it was largely destroyed as a result of the largest aerial raid of the entire war. With help from the Soviet Union, it was quickly rebuilt.

Get in
see also North Korea entry requirements and formalities

Nearly all visitors arrive either by plane or train from Beijing. You will need a visa before you travel and the authorities will need a minimum of 2 weeks to process it.

By plane


International flights use a new terminal opened in summer of 2015, featuring more seating, an expanded duty-free store, and additional amenities. The new terminal imposes a US$1 parking fee when exiting the lot.

Air China member of the Star Alliance, announced the resumption of thrice-weekly flights to Pyongyang in 2023, but as of February 2024 does not appear to be actually flying them yet. When available, Air China is preferred by most to Air Koryo due to its far more modern fleet of Boeing 737s.

Air Koryo operates flights to Beijing on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. These leave Pyongyang at 09:00 and return to Pyongyang from Beijing at 13:00.

The cheapest flights in and out of Pyongyang are to Shenyang for US$180 one way on Air Koryo, with service Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays.

If you are in a position to buy tickets within the country, they are on sale in the Youth Hotel's Air China office, which is about 10 km north-east of the city. They provide a free 30 kg baggage allowance. Tickets may also be purchased online through travel agents who typically interact with either the Beijing or Berlin Air Koryo offices. Expect to pay US$300-320 for a one-way ticket to Beijing.

By train
There are two international train services to Pyongyang, from Beijing (via Dandong and Sinuiju) and Moscow (via Zabaikalsk, Dandong and Sinuiju). Western foreigners will usually be denied entry to North Korea by train (except for those specially chartered by tour companies).

For trains arriving at (평양역), foreigners must exit via the side door at the far end of the station from the gates. Don't join the scrum with the North Koreans, as you won't be allowed to leave via the same door. If you have transported anything via freight on the train, you'll have to go back the next day to pick it up. The (not very busy) customs office is around the back of the building, and is shut between 12:00 and 14:00. There are no charges for collecting customs-cleared goods, and the bureaucracy is fairly simple, especially compared to the chaos of the Beijing railway station.

Get around
Tourists to North Korea will need to be accompanied by an accredited guide or guides, who will arrange where you can visit and how you will get there. However, personal visitors of foreign residents in Pyongyang are free to go around by themselves, unless explicitly told not to by Korean authorities. This can happen, but is not always the case.

By metro
The metro system has two routes. However, if on a package tour, your short trip on the metro will be organised in advance. Only visitors of foreign residents may use the entire metro. Despite being old, the trains run quite efficiently, and are phenomenally cheap at ₩5 per journey irrespective of distance. The biggest drawback to this form of transport is that the metro is only on the west side of the river, while Munsu dong, where all foreign residents live, is on the east side.

By taxi
Taxis can be taken, but drivers are wary of accepting foreigners. One exception might be the Koryo Hotel, near the railway station. Expect the driver to check with the hotel that he is allowed to take you. Generally around €5 will cover a medium distance one way journey, although the rate for foreigners is US$1/km before 18:30 and US$2/km in the evening.

By trolleybus
Foreign residents cannot use buses normally, but sometimes, a tour group sometimes organises the tour of the trolleybus system. However, getting around Pyongyang by trolleybus can be quite tricky, as the numbers displayed on the dashboard are not route numbers - they are the stopping pattern of the route. Routes itself are not numbered, only the stopping patterns, and routes itself are named after destinations.

See






Day trips



 * Mangyongdae, the purported birthplace of Kim Il Sung, is 12 km from central Pyongyang and a good day trip. A collection of huts said to be the Leader's first home is the main attraction. The suburb also features a revolutionary museum, a funfair and a revolutionary school for the children of the elite.
 * The Revolutionary Martyrs' Cemetery, around 15 km north east of the city, is a good day out. You walk up 300 steps, through gardens with hidden speakers playing mournful music, to fairly identikit bronze busts set on marble plinths. Seriousness, of course, is mandatory. Taking photos is fine, and on a clear day there are magnificent views over the city. At the foot of the hill there is a zoo and a park. One can visit both, at a small charge, although they are sometimes shut. As you approach, the metro terminus is on the right; it takes around 40 minutes to get back into town on the metro. In the zoo itself are a lot of tigers, dogs and chickens. The two Korean breeds of dog (the lighter coloured is the northern, the darker the southern one) are separated from one another by a steel fence and spend most of their lives barking at each other - quite an appropriate metaphor.
 * Some of the tombs of the UNESCO World Heritage listing Complex of Goguryeo Tombs are located in the Taedong river basin outside Pyongyang.
 * Panmunjom, the surreal truce village on the DMZ and demarcation line of North and South Korea, is an unforgettable historical site easily visited on a day trip from Pyongyang.

Do
Normally, tourists in Pyongyang are restricted to guided tours. Personal visitors to foreign residents are usually free to wander around, though they may also be placed under the care of a guide.



Buy
Shopping options are limited. A few department stores exist but have very few things of interest to a visitor. Locals only shop from speciality stores selling groceries and other basic items. Arts and crafts and souvenirs can be purchased in places such as tourist sites and hotels. Some extremely sought-after North Korean souvenirs are metal lapel badges depicting the faces of one or more of the three Kims. They can be difficult for foreigners to acquire; it is often easier to buy them at home on eBay or similar auction sites. There have been reported cases of these badges being seized by customs at departure.

There are several competing prepaid cards available around town, which reduce the hassle of carrying money and change. The ubiquitous and oldest is from the Trade Bank (무역은행), and is available at the Pyongyang Shop in the Embassy district. Its balance is recorded at the hard-currency exchange rate. Guangbok and some stores dealing in local currency offer a card from the Central Bank (중앙은행) with a balance of local won. The Ryugyong commercial bank also offers a card accepted by the Ryugyong shop.

There are several government-run markets, selling a wide range of foods, as well as consumer goods such as shoes and DIY materials. The majority of these products are imported, but some local goods can be found as well. The prices for local products are extremely low by western standards, and the sellers are generally honest although prices are negotiable. These markets are identifiable by their blue, hemispherical roofs. However, apart from Tonghil market, foreigners are generally treated with caution. Indeed, do not be surprised if you are gently, but firmly, escorted from the building. There is no harm in this, providing you comply.

Tonghil market is perhaps the most interesting, as there are many relatively wealthy Koreans shopping there for items many other North Koreans are unable to afford. You need won to shop at these markets, which can be exchanged for hard currencies on the second floor. Photography is prohibited. In Tonghil, be aware that some theft does occur, although it is minimal.

The list of stores known to be open to foreigners consists of:



Eat
Local residents generally eat at home, and as such the Pyongyang restaurant scene is lacking. You will normally eat dinner at your hotel. There are a number of small diners in the city, but they are mostly aimed at local workers and have rather spartan fare—boiled corn, kimchi, some fish or squid, white rice. The legal situation surrounding these semi-private establishments is complicated, and foreigners are not advised to eat at them. A famous local specialty of Pyongyang is cold noodles (랭면 raengmyeon); ask your guide if (s)he can give you some opportunities to try it.

There are, however, several restaurants well-suited for tourists.



Drink
There are few bars and clubs to which foreigners are allowed, although North Korean beer is available at hotels. Some may also offer Chinese and other foreign beers, such as Heineken. The local draught beer is excellent, and costs from €0.50 to €1.40.

There are three main places, apart from restaurants and hotels, where foreign residents go to socialise; the old Diplomatic club, near the Juche tower by the river, the Friendship, inside the Munsu dong foreigners' compound, and the Random Access Club (RAC), run by the UN, also inside the foreigners' compound.

Provided that transport (difficult) and permission (less difficult) is obtainable, all of these can be visited. The RAC Friday nights are legendary (not in an "Ibiza" way, though), although what passed for nightlife has dwindled as foreign aid organisations have left the country during 2009.

Sleep
This will be arranged by your tour company.

Stay safe
Pyongyang is a very safe city for foreigners who follow the rules. See the main article for safety information about North Korea.

In addition to the standard emergency numbers (119 from fixed-line phones, 112 from mobile phones), for medical emergencies in Pyongyang, you can also dial.

Connect
The country code for North Korea is +850, and the area code for Pyongyang is 2 (and possibly also 195), dialed and written domestically as 02. Phone numbers in Pyongyang beginning with 381 (e.g. +850 2-381-xxxx) can be called internationally, and can only make international calls and calls to other 381 numbers. Businesses with such a phone number will usually have a 381 number for international calls and a 382 for domestic calls.

Foreigners staying in Pyongyang can sign up with Koryolink mobile phone service. The setup fee for a SIM card and voice service will be either $80 or €80. Signing up for 3G data costs an additional €180. Fees for the mobile service are $8/month for voice and $14/month for data. The included data plan provides 50M of data. The phone network available to foreigners does not interconnect with the network used by citizens.

Hotels aimed at foreigners may be able to provide Internet access, although it should be requested in advance. If you do not have Internet access and need connection the easiest option is likely to schedule a visit to your embassy.

Embassies
Most foreign embassies in Pyongyang, except for the Chinese and Russian embassies, are in the Munsu-dong area. Citizens of European Union (EU) countries not represented in Pyongyang can seek consular assistance from other EU embassies instead, such as the German or Polish embassies. Citizens of the United States, Canada, Nordic Countries and Australia can get limited consular assistance from the Swedish embassy, although usually only in emergencies. These citizens are also recommended to contact their country's embassy in Seoul or Beijing.

* The Swedish Embassy offers limited consular help to citizens of Australia, Canada, the United States and the Nordic countries. They also handle Schengen visa applications for Italy, Spain and the Nordic countries.

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 * Nampho