Pulau Tioman

Pulau Tioman is a small island, 20 km long and 12 km wide, off the east coast of peninsular Malaysia. In the 1970s, Time magazine selected Tioman as one of the world's most beautiful islands. The densely forested island is still sparsely inhabited. Also it is surrounded by numerous white coral reefs, making it a haven for scuba divers from around the region.

Understand


Tioman is in Pahang off the East Coast of Peninsular Malaysia within the Mersing Marine Park, which also contains less commercial islands such as Sibu Island. The primary gateway Mersing is in Johor.

Tioman's beaches were depicted in the 1958 movie South Pacific as "Bali Hai".

Already the most commercially developed of Malaysia's eastern islands, a controversial RM 40 million marina project for Kampung Tekek, complete with 175 m cargo jetty, now threatens to speed up the pace of development on Tioman considerably. However, visitors with an aversion to such progress can avoid this part of the island and stay elsewhere without any impact.

You will find enormous monitor lizards across the island, sifting through the rubbish piles looking for food. There is also an abundance of domestic cats.

In theory, all garbage and pre-sorted recycling is taken via boat to the mainland on a monthly basis, but there is much informal burning/dumping of rubbish. Many resorts do sort their waste for recycling and dispose of it properly. However some resorts just dump all their garbage in the jungle. With 200,000 visitors per year, the waste produced by tourists can easily swamp the island if not properly managed. How your chosen resort disposes of rubbish and recycling is worth asking about during your stay. So do not expect a pristine environment, but progress is being made. As of 2020, a new incinerator had been built but was not in use. Various recycling programs exist but their use is not 100%. For now, garbage remains a problem on Pulau Tioman. Tourists can minimise their impact by producing as little rubbish as possible.

Get in
No matter which way you choose to arrive, a marine park fee of RM35 (as of 2023) is levied on all visitors to the island. If you arrive by ferry this is payable at the ferry port in Mersing.

By ferry
Most visitors arrive by ferry from Mersing on the mainland. As of 2023, two ferry companies, Bluewater and Cataferry, provide services departing from Mersing, Johor and Tanjung Gemok to various jetties on Tioman including Genting, Paya, Tekek, Air Batang and Salang Jetty. You can purchase tickets online in advance or directly at the counter. The trip takes 1.5-2 hours to the first jetty. There are about one to three services per day in each direction, depending on tides.

Some ferry companies overcrowd their vessels. If you ever feel uncomfortable boarding a vessel for any reason, refuse. A good way to avoid this is to avoid the last vessel as it is always the busiest. The boat is sometimes boarded by the Malaysian coast guard but it appears that the operators are aware of when this will take place and take pains to follow the rules only on those days.



Bluewater Ferry charges RM60 (more on public holidays) for adults, and takes travellers to Tekek, Air Batang Genting, Paya and Salang. The ferry operator tends to leave Mersing when the tide is high enough, when there are sufficient passengers aboard, or if a connecting bus needs to be met. Hence, it may not always be possible to strictly adhere to the timetable and you should leave sufficient buffers (1-2 hours) or prepare yourself to spend a night in Mersing.

In Mersing, the ferry port is about 1 km down the river from the bus terminal. Face the river and go right. Follow through the commercial centre of Mersing, past the stadium to river mouth. The bus may also drop you off at the corner where a conveniently located travel agent will attempt to sell you accommodation on the island. It may suit some to make a booking in the town before going to the island, others may prefer to take their chances and check out the offerings there.

If the afternoon ferry (4:30PM) is not running, you will have to sleep in Mersing. Head straight to the ferry terminal, buy a ticket and worry about other matters later. Alternatively, ferry tickets can be bought in advance at Bluewater's official website, so your seats are guaranteed. If you are not heading for the island, boats are available for private boat charter, scuba diving, fishing & touring along Jalan Dato Onn, Mersing. Some ferries also depart from Tanjung Gemuk to the north of Mersing.

During the monsoon season (late Oct to mid Feb) the ferries run much less frequently and exceptionally bad conditions may shut them down completely for several days or weeks.

Since 2004, there are no direct ferries to/from Singapore’s Tanah Merah ferry terminal available.

If you board the bus in Johor Bahru at 2:30PM or later, you will most likely arrive in Mersing after the last ferry of the day has departed. If you have to spend the night in Mersing, use it as an opportunity to shop for things you'll need on the island, because everything is more expensive there. Most shops in Mersing do not open before 10:00, but some restaurants stay open very late into the evening.

Courtesy of dive operator
Many dive operators in Singapore operate their own trips to Tioman, and this would usually include taking a bus from Singapore to Mersing, then boarding a dive boat to Tioman. This is more expensive than organising the trip yourself but passengers pay for the convenience.

By yacht
Tekek has a harbour with substantial wave break walls. The Tekek anchorage does not look like the nicest part of Tioman to hang about in, especially given the high intensity orange lights installed in abundance.

The map shown on this page has an incorrect scale shown; as an estimate, the distance between Kg Paya and Kg Bunut on the west coast is 1 km.

Get around
Local transport is by bike, cars at Tekek, and by boat. A concrete road runs through Tekek, extending from the Berjaya resort in the south, past the airport, and to the northern end of Tekek village. There is a concrete path running the 800 m of Air Batang area and believe it or not: the Air Batang locals bought about 20 scooters and drive up and down this 800-m path that ruins the calm for the tourists. Elsewhere there are almost no roads on Tioman. Cars may charge around RM20 for the short distance from the end of Tekek jetty/parks info office to the airport and up to RM120 for the biggest distance with a minimum of 2 or 4 passengers.

The east–west concrete track was started by the Japanese in WWII and was re-opened several years ago. It follows the main electricity cable between Tekek and Juara. A 4-wheel drive vehicle is required. When you arrive you may be asked for up to RM175 to charter a whole vehicle to take you across. In May 2012 chartering a whole vehicle from Juara to Tekek cost RM60, though individual passengers in shared vehicles were quoted as RM35/head. It takes 45 min and is an interesting, steep and hairy ride.

By boat
By far the best and cheapest way of hopping from one village to the other is to use the Mersing/Tioman ferry service. On its way to and from Mersing it goes between Salang in the north and Genting in the south. The ferry will take you to most villages between from RM20 per person (for the Bluewater ferry) and is much cheaper than the private speedboat services. As of July 2011, the ferry operators do not appear to be charging for the island-hopping.

Speedboats charge from about RM20–60 for a single trip, depending on the destination. For example, a speedboat from Salang to Tekek will cost about RM30, but a trip from Salang to Juara will cost about RM60–100. Although you can try to negotiate, they know full well that they're the only game in town (unless you hike). A single trip by boat as far as from the west coast to the east coast is RM150 and can be shared if there are more passengers. Expect to pay double at night.

By jeep
There are 4WD "taxis" from Tekek to Juara. They may ask for RM75 (single person), RM120 total (two persons) or RM35 each (min. 4 persons).

Don't be forced into using those who tout directly outside the airstrip. Slow down to local pace and take your time over everything.

On foot
There are several jungle treks, following the power lines, which connect the villages. Depending on your condition and preferences, it could be better to have walking/trekking shoes and long pant.


 * Tekek - Juara It is relatively easy to cross the island on foot from Tekek to Juara. The path up from Tekek is a well established but unpaved, 7-km-long, 300-m-high track along the powerline with occasional stone steps to assist and a few fallen tree trunks to keep things interesting. It's feasible with a small backpack, but fairly strenuous, so allow plenty of time (at least two hours each way for the trail itself, or three and a half hours if crossing from settlement to settlement). In Tekek, the trail starts north of the airport (see the Do section). There is no cheap way to go back. Alternatives to walking are speed boat or 4WD, RM50–100.
 * Tekek - Air Batang It is also possible to walk from Tekek to Air Batang (ABC), and the 3.5-km path is relatively level. Just go north along the concrete path.
 * Air Batang - Monkey Bay Again following the power cable, the hike is possible, though this is less level. First comes Panuba resort. Next there is Monkey Beach which is beautiful (it takes about 70 min to get from ABC to Monkey Beach). Make sure to follow the established trail by the power cable. Shortly thereafter is Monkey Bay. The two lie next to each other (in fact, one can swim out of the bay of Monkey Beach and reach Monkey Bay on the right without problems). There is hut at Monkey Bay. Don't try it with a heavy backpack.
 * Monkey Bay If you continue along Monkey Beach to its northern end, you will find a foot path that leads to the side of Monkey Bay, a very pretty hourglass indented beach. The foot pad is subject to treefall so expect it to be hard to follow in places, but panic not if you lose the path, use your head and nut it out. The more use the better the path will get. Both beaches offer very good snorkelling. The other way to reach them is by water taxis. There are ruins of attempts to set up business here, but otherwise no development, but the writer definitely saw a family of monkeys, who ignored the humans and didn't seem to expect any food. Of course don't feed them.
 * Monkey Bay - Salang Keep following the power cable to get to Salang. Remember to follow the power lines, since the path may be hard to see sometimes. This path is more steep than the previous paths. It may take up to 90 min for this part of the hike. Don't try it with a heavy backpack.

Air Batang (ABC village)
The village used to be named Ayer Batang or Air Batang, word by word translation means water stick; traditionally people used bamboo sticks to carry water here. A long time after this, the first to build chalets in the village named them Ayer Batang Chalets, (ABC) and the name stuck.

Today ABC is a small village with one small path crossing from north to south, following the coast line, no cars, just some motorbikes (sometimes driven by children).

The people living here are mostly quiet, enjoying their relaxed way of living and the untouched feel of their village. As long as you respect them, they will respect you.

Don't expect a party destination, while there are a few bars and occasional parties, the main purpose here is relaxing, meeting other people, diving and trekking. This is also a major reason people visit ABC, to see traditional island life while enjoying a tropical holiday.

Walk along the path (it will take you about 40 min to go from one side of the village to the other) enjoy the sea and the giant trees, have your lunch on a terrace and observe life moving around you. Being a small village close to the jungle also brings different kinds of visitors: monkeys and giant monitor lizards. These animals will regularly cross your path, reminding you that they know the place better than you ever will. Lastly the most unavoidable animals are the cats, they are everywhere, sleeping or craving your food and affection.

Juara
The local village is spread back from the little track which follows the line of the sea. People live all over the place normally in simple huts. The tourist huts and accommodation is within 20 m of high water mark.

Juara is a very quiet beach at the east coast especially in the off season, when almost nobody is there. There are three rivers coming from the mountains, delivering cold freshwater to the beach, a chilling alternative to swimming in the sea.

A path leads to waterfalls in the jungle, which is nice for a swim and climb over the large rocks.

The place is divided into two beaches that are separated by a small hill, which is said to be the origin of Tioman. Some locals say: "you have not been on Tioman, if you did not stand on these rocks".


 * The beach more towards the north where the jetty has very nice sand but with some dead coral in the shallow water. Swimming is OK, but walking in the water can be painful. At both ends of this beach is the mouth of one of the rivers.
 * The beach more towards the south is even quieter. The sand again is very nice and there are no obstacles in the water. At the south end of this beach the last of the three rivers meets the sea.
 * At the southern end of Mrntawak beach there is a turtle hatchery.

Scuba
Scuba facilities are readily available, and the diving is reasonably good, especially in view of the proximity to Singapore. Most villages have a variety of dive shops. Padi Open water courses average at about RM990 (4 day course), and for licensed divers each dive is roughly RM100). You plan to dive and are travelling with small budget? Go to Air Batang (ABC) since accommodation is about RM30 and not RM40 like in Salang.



Snorkelling
Perhaps the most popular activity for visitors is snorkelling. Most resorts can arrange for speedboats or seabuses to take you to the beaches and small uninhabited islands nearby (such as Pulau Tulai, aka "Coral Island") and Renggis island where the snorkelling is at its best. The water is almost pristine save for the occasional litter. Just be careful of the small jellyfish, as they can pack a sting, and try not to lose your rental gear or you'll be subject to the renter's arbitrary fines. However, snorkelling is fantastic in front of most beaches and can rival that of any snorkelling trip at a fraction of the cost. However, do note that the beaches are home to several Portuguese Man o' War jellyfish. These prickly creatures tend to rest on rocks and if snorkelling in shallow waters, one should be especially careful of not coming in contact with these. Their sting is extremely painful and may require medical attention. Snorkellers who are squeamish about brushing against thick clouds of jellyfish in the water (as can happen in the May–September period) can try wearing a long-sleeved shirt or a rash guard when snorkelling. Or, you can rent a wetsuit from one of the dive shops if you're not comfortable with the jellies. You can rent snorkelling equipment for about RM15/day (mask, scuba, fins). Some of the best locations are as follows.


 * Paya: A group of rocks adjacent from the beach offers a variety of colourful coral and fish.
 * Tekek: The marine park, 3 km north of Tekek, has a man-made artificial reef just off its jetty. The visibility can be questionable and there's not much coral but is teeming with fish.
 * Air Batang: The best village for snorkelling. At ABC (the far end of the beach) one can snorkel around the rocks towards Panuba with a full reef full of colourful coral and fish. Its not too deep, making it perfect for snorkelling. Even more colourful is the reef on either side of the jetty where one can see turtles and a vast garden of yellow coral.
 *  Salang: South of the jetty the coral begins almost as soon as the water is deep enough to swim in, offering some great views of a variety of fish and even turtles to the less confident swimmer. Following the rocks further out and around the headland gives an even greater variety of marine life. It is also worth swimming out to the small island just off the headland for the possibility of seeing black tip reef sharks.

Surf
For the surf junkies, Tioman receives swells up to 2 m from the South China Sea. They only come during the wet season (Nov – Mar) and only hit the eastern side of the island.



Buy
Tioman is a duty-free zone and offers a good selection of alcohol and cigarettes at very cheap prices. The main outlet is "Vision Duty Free".



All the other villages have small outlets, but no alcohol can be found there.

If you plan on continuing to Singapore with your loot, beware that there is no duty free allowance if coming from Malaysia.

The only ATM on the island is in Tekek:


 * It can run out of money. Better to bring cash from the mainland.
 * Snorkelling equipment: Can be bought in the larger shops in Telek if you prefer not to rent it.

Eat
Depending on where you eat, food can be quite expensive on Tioman, compared to other places in Malaysia. Western food can be up to RM15 per plate, whilst local food is cheaper (between RM8-12). Especially if you eat at the restaurants attached to the resorts and chalets, you should plan around RM 30 per day (good breakfast, lunch and dinner). "Street food" in the form of fried rice or burger booths can be found everywhere, but opening times vary.

During Ramadan, most of the restaurants around the island are closed for lunch.

A 1.5 L bottle of water costs RM4, some places offer refill with locally filtered water for RM1-2. Canned soft drinks are about RM3, beer starts at RM3 (Skol Beer at local shop), but note that you cannot bring/consume alcohol in some restaurants.

Juara
Food options in Juara are not particularly exciting. As everywhere on the island, the prices are a bit high.

If you are staying at Juara Mutiara, avoid the buffet-style breakfast they try to sell you, one look at it will tell you why - and yes it is possible to just book a room, at a discount, without any food included. While they don't sell alcohol, they are ok with BYO.



There is also a Chinese restaurant which has a great view from its veranda overlooking the beach, so even if you don't feel like you want to eat there its a great place to have a drink before dinner. The food is decent, but relatively pricey for what it is. The beer selection is good, from RM3-7 per can/bottle, and drinks arrive ice-chilled - always a bonus in the tropics.



Salang
The food in Salang is similarly priced and there is a variety of western and local fare. For those who enjoy seafood, there are numerous barbeque restaurants offering freshly caught fish, shrimp, squid and crabs. These are open from around 7PM.

Tekek
Village restaurant at Coral Reef Holidays the most Malay and western food also good view (by the beach).

Drink
If you want nightlife and atmosphere, there are some bars between Tekek Village till Air Batang which serve everything from cheap beer to cocktails and most do bonfire nights on the beach on occasions.

Genting

 * Bar Rumba, Genting (5 minutes walk north from the jetty). Opened in 2011, cozy intimate place right on the beach run by a friendly young local couple who have taken a lot of effort to give the place an individual feel: coral chandeliers, driftwood construction, amazing tree and swinging picnic table. Drinks are a decent price and the cocktails are really well made.

Sleep
While the most commercialized of Malaysia's East Coast islands, Tioman has yet to be invaded by mass tourism on the scale of Penang or Langkawi and there are plenty of cheap beds to be found. However, if you are heading for anywhere other than the backpackers' villages, reservations are advisable as getting to some of the more remote kampungs can be a hassle. Some places stay open year-round, but many close for the monsoon season (typically end of October to mid/late February).

Budget
Most of Tioman's backpacker accommodation is in the north of the island, with numerous budget chalet operations clustered around Salang and Air Batang (sometimes also referred to as ABC - although this is the name of the resort at the northern end of the beach, not the beach), and to a lesser extent Tekek. Dorm beds start about RM 20, single rooms (huts) around RM 40 and up.

Air Batang (ABC village)

 * My friend's place, Kg Air Batang. Chalets RM45 (2023). Discount for longer stays.
 * South Pacific, Kg Air Batang. RM45 onward.
 * Y & P chalets, Kg Air Batang. RM20 onward.
 * South Pacific, Kg Air Batang. RM45 onward.
 * Y & P chalets, Kg Air Batang. RM20 onward.
 * South Pacific, Kg Air Batang. RM45 onward.
 * Y & P chalets, Kg Air Batang. RM20 onward.

Juara
A quieter beach on the east coast, also has a selection of budget rooms at similar prices. Surf season from November through February (monsoon). As of 2023 significant development has begun.



Tekek

 * Wak Cottage (previously Sri Tioman). RM25 and up.
 * Wak Cottage (previously Sri Tioman). RM25 and up.
 * Wak Cottage (previously Sri Tioman). RM25 and up.
 * Wak Cottage (previously Sri Tioman). RM25 and up.

Mid-range
Practically every kampung on the west coast of the island has a self-styled resort or two. A typical air-conditioned chalet will set you back in the vicinity of RM 100, although significant discounts can be negotiated in the off-season, in package deals or by showing up and smiling. In off-season it is advisable to just show up and pick the best and cheapest spots. Genting resorts are largely owned and operated by friendly local fisherman families. For the support of the local community, you are likely to have a chance to pick the best fish at the beach in the evening and have it prepared by the women.

Salang

 * Ella Place. Located at the northern end of Salang Bay and one of the quieter options in Salang. A few small, simple chalets all face the sea. Each chalet has a fan and an attached bathroom with cold shower, while some also come with air-conditioning.

Other village

 * Idaman Beach Holiday, from RM80 per night. The only resort on the southern side of the jetty, Idaman Beach Holiday is located on a beautiful stretch of beach. The rooms are simple and can accommodate two to four persons. All rooms face the beach and it is only a few steps from your doorstep to the shore.
 * Nipah Paradise Resort. A nice small bay in the south of Tioman, with only two small resorts, the beach and a creek. Nipah is the right beach for people, who want to get away from it all because there is not even a public telephone! The atmosphere is laid back and relaxed, most of the travelers are backpackers who put up at Nipah Beach Chalets. The second resort - Nipah Paradise - is a haven for the backpackers. It offers small cheap chalets. The nice owners offer a two days trekking tour through the jungle to the peak of Gunung Kajang, Tioman's highest peak (1038 m).
 * Nipah Paradise Resort. A nice small bay in the south of Tioman, with only two small resorts, the beach and a creek. Nipah is the right beach for people, who want to get away from it all because there is not even a public telephone! The atmosphere is laid back and relaxed, most of the travelers are backpackers who put up at Nipah Beach Chalets. The second resort - Nipah Paradise - is a haven for the backpackers. It offers small cheap chalets. The nice owners offer a two days trekking tour through the jungle to the peak of Gunung Kajang, Tioman's highest peak (1038 m).
 * Nipah Paradise Resort. A nice small bay in the south of Tioman, with only two small resorts, the beach and a creek. Nipah is the right beach for people, who want to get away from it all because there is not even a public telephone! The atmosphere is laid back and relaxed, most of the travelers are backpackers who put up at Nipah Beach Chalets. The second resort - Nipah Paradise - is a haven for the backpackers. It offers small cheap chalets. The nice owners offer a two days trekking tour through the jungle to the peak of Gunung Kajang, Tioman's highest peak (1038 m).
 * Nipah Paradise Resort. A nice small bay in the south of Tioman, with only two small resorts, the beach and a creek. Nipah is the right beach for people, who want to get away from it all because there is not even a public telephone! The atmosphere is laid back and relaxed, most of the travelers are backpackers who put up at Nipah Beach Chalets. The second resort - Nipah Paradise - is a haven for the backpackers. It offers small cheap chalets. The nice owners offer a two days trekking tour through the jungle to the peak of Gunung Kajang, Tioman's highest peak (1038 m).

Internet
Wifi is widely available on Tioman. Accommodations that do provide it often only cover the restaurant area and even then it can be painfully slow. If internet is important to you, you should buy a Malaysian SIM.


 * 3G Mobile Broadband If you have your own laptop then by far the cheapest way to get online on Tioman is to subscribe to a mobile broadband service from Celcom or Maxis. The cost from Celcom is about RM20 per week for unlimited access (5GB). Buy your internet package before you arrive in Tioman, such as in Mersing.
 * Broadband: There is an Internet café across from the airport in Tekek. The rate is RM10/hour. It is open 9AM-6PM. There is also broadband available at Berjaya Tioman Beach, Golf & Spa Resort for similar rates, and one at Paya Beach Resort.
 * Bamboo Hill has dialup for RM10/hr available 8:30AM-7:30PM. There is also an Internet café near the jetty with 2 computers, open until late
 * Tioman Cabana You can surf the internet and also have access to hotspot-wifi, The rate is RM10/hour.Open from 9AM-2AM.
 * Berjaya Tioman Beach, Golf & Spa Resort if you have a laptop, wireless broadband is available at RM80 for the duration of your stay but only available in public areas - poolside, restaurant, café and lobby.
 * Tioman Dive Centre  Located at Swiss Cottage, Tioman Dive Centre offers free wifi for customers with their own laptops who are diving with them, for the duration of their stay. They also have an on-site computer with internet access for RM10/hr.
 * Panuba offers a single internet service for RM1 per 5 min.
 * Tioman Cozy Hotel internet is available for free and unlimited time at the 1st floor after the last room.

Telephone
Celcom, DIGI and Maxis networks are available but coverage may be limited in some areas. You can buy prepaid SIM cards from the shops at Tioman or at the airport. By regulation, prepaid registration is mandatory; expect a day or two for line activation.

Tioman advertises that it has a number of payphones that can be used upon purchasing a phonecard; many travellers buy the cards before realising that none of these phones work. If you want to call home, many hotels offer international call services at a price, otherwise consider using Skype or other communication apps.

Television
Only one TV station is broadcast to Tioman. The only way to watch more channels is to find somewhere with cable TV. On Salang, the 4 S Cafe (which is in fact a bar) and the Salang Dreams Cafe both have cable TV. Ask nicely, and you might get the staff to change the channel - though watching TV is usually low on the list of things to do in Tioman.

Stay safe
There have been repeat outbreaks of Sarcocystosis, caused by a single-celled gut parasite, amongst travellers to Tioman, particularly in 2012 (more than 100 cases) and in May 2014 (more than 40 cases). While the parasites that cause sarcocystosis are endemic in Malaysia, is not well known amongst physicians and is often misdiagnosed. It is usually spread by eating raw or undercooked meat. If you have flu-like symptoms and severe muscle aches after traveling to Tioman consult a tropical disease specialist immediately. Treatments are available.

Another infection risk comes from being cut by sharp corals while swimming. Coral are bacteria-laden and the resulting cuts can become infected if not disinfected and covered quickly. Bring alcohol wipes and antiseptic for coral cuts; wash and treat them immediately to avoid a nasty infection.

Watch out for the triggerfish as well; these little pointy-nosed fish are very cute but they do get territorial and attack swimmers during their mating season. Monkeys have been known to attempt to force open windows and doors to look for food, thanks to irresponsible tourists who insist on feeding the monkeys. Theft committed by humans is not generally an issue in private rooms.

Some young men in their 20s may invite female tourists to have a drink with them. Their offers should be politely but firmly declined. There have been some rapes on this island.

Go next

 * Mersing